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Ever tried salt weathering? There's an article on the technique in the tips section which is really helpful and it's simply the best way to do weathering. Also, a technique I just learned and tried for the first time (worked pretty good too). After the decals have dried for 4-5 days after using microsol/microset (which I assume yours have) you take a 4800 grit or so sanding sponge dip it in water, and gently rub it over the decal (note: this only works if the decals HAVE NOT been sealed yet) what ends up happening is that the water and gentle rubbing with the sanding sponge "leaches" out the ink from the decals and creates a worn and faded decal. Nice looking camo by the way!!

Dan

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Ever tried salt weathering? it's simply the best way to do weathering.

you take a 4800 grit or so gently rub it over the decal

Hi Dan, thanks for your comments. I used the decal wear technique on the Lightning. If you look at photos of this A-7 the markings are not visibly worn so I don’t think that would be a good idea in this case. Similarly, I don’t think the salt technique would produce the paint staining/’bleeding’ and/or corrosion treatment effects one sees in photos. The effects are more pronounced than appear in my photo, but I am in the camp of less is more! :)

Regards

John

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  • 4 weeks later...

I can't wait to see what you will do with weathering.

Mike

Ground Hog Day, back to the present.

Mike, if nothing else it gives me the opportunity to revise my ‘disappeared’ reply. I was thinking I’ve already done the ‘weathering’ and you may have been thinking yes, but I can’t see much until I see detailed photos.

No idea what you said Marcel (and others?), but thanks for dropping in.

There I was thinking (been here before haven’t I?) all I have to do is match the camou of the 8 gear doors to the fuselage and I’m freewheeling to the finish line. I know the CED sheet doesn’t have the name AN “TEX MEX†CONTRERAS for the nose gear doors, but it is on the CAM, so no problem! Come to use them and they are too small.

So, I think OK lets look at this as a challenge, rather than a problem. Answer, use some alphabet decals and make the name up from 19 bits, for each door. Turns out the sheet has a constant carrier film, so not only do they all have to be individually cut out, but I’ll need to cut them tight to both sides of each letter or the spacing will be uneven/too big. Yeah, you also need to get a fairly constant cut to the underside of each letter or your alignment will be stuffed. Now beginning to look more like a problem. In the meantime I drop the Iwata airbrush from ~ 1â€during cleaning – yes nozzle cap etc are removed, so there is one damaged fluid nozzle at £30+ a go. It makes you wonder just how much they actually cost to make.

Meanwhile, back at the ranch, I crack the lettering, but now have a problem doing the parentheses. Not perfect, but cut the bottom bits off the Rs from the CAM decals and turn them upside down.

Then there is the question of split collar main gear down locks. Yep, cracked that one. Oh and what about the canvas strap which prevents the canopy from over opening (seems strange but that’s what an ex A-7E pilot told me), and the canvas bag that this is attached to/housed in.

Finally finished and patience gauge is in the red.

A6.jpg

Had a window of opportunity this afternoon – just got to sift thro’ them. It’s great being able to take loads of shots and dump the crap, at no extra cost.

Big thanks to Neo for sorting the problem.

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Special thanks are due to Tom (Superheat) for technical input, Mark (mhoupt) for taking photos of the rear MGBs to aid detail/correction of Aires set, Guy Wilson(Geedub) for consultation on camou pattern and David Brown's photos on Airfighters which helped resolve some painting questions.

Edited by John Wolstenholme
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Very nice!! I picked this kit up early this year and have thought about doing this scheme, but I have the decals to do this bird in 1/48, and I'm not sure I want to do the same scheme in 2 different scales, so I'll do my 1/32 bird in some other scheme.

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John, appreciate the close-up pics. Stunning work! Really love your weathering, which is the way it should be i.e. replicating the effects seen on the real subject and not simply using some generic technique. Very nice to see you stay true to that throughout the build, right down the inlet.

:worship:

Marcel

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06.jpg

Just a question, maybe a stupid one. How do you board the plane? The first (lowest) step is onde for the left foot. Than the second step is for your right foot. But than the third is a right one again. Do you hop to this one or do you take a very big step to the 4th step and than balance on the lower third step.

I hope someone understands what i'm trying to say.

But besides that, what a great model. It is really impresive. I hope that someday i have the skills and patience to make something like that.

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Another stunning build by Mr. Wolstenholme. The close ups say it all, which is that all the tiny details have been perfected. Your weathering is great too and I agree that any more would be over the top. Congrat's John on another fantastic modeling effort. :thumbsup:

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  • 9 months later...

zaxos345 asked me what I had done regarding airbrake mods.

Hello John. It was apparent from the few photos I had seen of the airbrake extended that the kit part was too short/stubby. I found this photo to make a determination for lengthening the airbrake and bay, not having access to the real thing unlike yourself :D

www.airpics.com/view.php?photo_id=124983

You can see where the airbrake is relative to the MG doors that it is way short.

My mods

35a_zps775de1c3.jpg

Regards

John

Link didn't work!

Edited by John Wolstenholme
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