Jump to content

Primer & putty options


Recommended Posts

Living where I do hobby shops are almost all gone. Material is hard to come by. Is there a primer and contour putty I can get from a big chain store like Home Hardware, NAPA etc? I dont feel like driving 2.5 hours just to get something when I need it. As far as putty is concerned the closest hobby shop to me told me he cannot get Testers putty because it has been rejected at the border. He said the excuse was there is not bilingual writing on the tube. The real reason was that it contains something called telurine or something like that. Another thing that does not exist in this area is micro mesh so sanding is almost out of the question.

Edited by Avroman
Link to post
Share on other sites
Living where I do hobby shops are almost all gone. Material is hard to come by. Is there a primer and contour putty I can get from a big chain store like Home Hardware, NAPA etc? I dont feel like driving 2.5 hours just to get something when I need it. As far as putty is concerned the closest hobby shop to me told me he cannot get Testers putty because it has been rejected at the border. He said the excuse was there is not bilingual writing on the tube. The real reason was that it contains something called telurine or something like that. Another thing that does not exist in this area is micro mesh so sanding is almost out of the question.

Check your local auto supply stores for 3M Brand Products such as Acryl-Blue or any of the other colors. This stuff is probably the best putty out there for our scale modeling needs.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Check your local auto supply stores for 3M Brand Products such as Acryl-Blue or any of the other colors.

Thanks Hawkeye.

Does this require a hardner mix or do you just use it out of the container?

As far as micromesh is concerned, when you go to the auto parts place, ask for auto finishing papers. It will accomplish exactly the same thing.

Thanks J.C

Man you guys are a wealth of information.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Buy a quart or pint of primer and reducer (if you want) it's a little on the thick side so you can brush it on (like Mr. Surfacer), and when it needs to be sprayed, thin it out allot with lacquer thinner (or reducer).

I transferred some primer into a larger paint bottle (Tamiya Thinner size) that way I don't have to mess with opening the big can and it will last longer not being opened too often.

Stay away from automotive spray primer as they are made for metal, and will contain more lacquer thinner that might melt your plastic.

Fine Emory paper can be had to about 1200, finer than that will have to be special ordered, OOO steel wood is great for a final finish also and recommended.

As mentioned acyrl blue is a good putty, a club member uses it allot, he also thins his with liquid cement, your test fitting of parts should keep putty to a minimum any how (right!!)

Curt

Link to post
Share on other sites
Now what about the primer part of this question. Is there anything from an autoparts or hardware store I could use?

If you use a primer to check your surface preparation, why not just use the initial camo color as a primer?

Link to post
Share on other sites
Living where I do hobby shops are almost all gone. Material is hard to come by. Is there a primer and contour putty I can get from a big chain store like Home Hardware, NAPA etc? I dont feel like driving 2.5 hours just to get something when I need it. As far as putty is concerned the closest hobby shop to me told me he cannot get Testers putty because it has been rejected at the border. He said the excuse was there is not bilingual writing on the tube. The real reason was that it contains something called telurine or something like that. Another thing that does not exist in this area is micro mesh so sanding is almost out of the question.
I have no hobby store near me either, so I try to use local household stuff.

There are lots of things you can use:

Wood putty will work in a pinch, a little water on a Q-tip will wipe off the exces, so that saves on sanding.

Some folks mix superglue with talc or baking soda to use as a gap filler.

My favorite putty is Milliput It's a two part epoxy that you combine and use like putty. A little water on a q-tip smooths it out, again to save on sanding. I buy it off E-bay.

Your local auto parts stores should have very fine sandpapers in the 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit range.

My favorite sanding tools are pads used to polish fingernails. They have three grits, and will polish a clear part so you can see through it. I get them in my local dollar store. You can also pick up more course sticks there for the rough work.

After you putty and sand, prime your model with some Krylon gray primer decanted into a small glass jar and applied with an airbrush. Works just as good as the pricy little bottle of Tamiya primer.

Edited by dmk0210
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...