Harv Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Just reading about airbrush pressures and noted Cyrus' response regarding the use of a MAC Valve here: AB Pressure Thread . Never heard of this before, and a search produced info that still made little sense to me. Can anyone (Help, Cyrus?) explain a bit more what this valve is, how it operates, and what the application is for an airbrush set-up? Thanks in advance, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jmathews Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Just reading about airbrush pressures and noted Cyrus' response regarding the use of a MAC Valve here: AB Pressure Thread . Never heard of this before, and a search produced info that still made little sense to me. Can anyone (Help, Cyrus?) explain a bit more what this valve is, how it operates, and what the application is for an airbrush set-up? Thanks in advance, Diffrent aibrush companies have different names for that valve.. Badger's is PAC, some use MAC.. but it's a connection or fitting under the airbrush with a small wheel or dial to allow adjustment of airflow without having to turn away from your work in order to make an adjustment at the compressor. It's also more precise in that you can see the effect as you turn the dial if you want to. HTH Jack Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thegoodsgt Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Iwata sells an "external" MAC valve. http://www.iwata-medea.com/index.php/produ...rnal_mac_valve/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
denstore Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 I'm a bit biased, but I really like the Grex G-Mac. It is a combination of a air valve and a quick connect. Fit it to your hose, and quick connects to all your airbrushes, and you will only need one. And the wheel is larger than on most others, which makes it easier to fine tune, IMHO. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Harv Posted October 7, 2010 Author Share Posted October 7, 2010 ...Ah, a "Micro Air Control" (MAC) Valve... got it. Makes more sense than what I'd found on the web myself. Thanks for the input, guys! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cyrus Tan Posted October 8, 2010 Share Posted October 8, 2010 (edited) Hi Harv, It seems a few folks already answered your question. The best way I would describe it is like the difference between a standard DVD to a Blu Ray picture quality. For models you want the best atomization meaning paint being seperated into the finest particles to achive the best finish. I've often seen models that I call "crusty" because the paint finish is grainy or too thick. I'm a bit biased, but I really like the Grex G-Mac. It is a combination of a air valve and a quick connect. Fit it to your hose, and quick connects to all your airbrushes, and you will only need one. And the wheel is larger than on most others, which makes it easier to fine tune, IMHO. So am I! I just didn't want it to look like a spam post. That's the same one I use and I think its designed better than the Iwata version. A friend of mine highly recommended it when Grex introduced into the market and after my first try I was immediately sold! They're only $25 here in the states and I find I use mine for all my paint sessions. The quick connect is a god send! Here's a link. Some gravity feed brushes have them mounted on the brush itself (under the cup) like the Iwata Hi-Line series, but I find that it makes the balance of the brush front heavy. You'll definitely feel your wrist giving out after a long paint session. H&S has a better design "fpc" (fine pressure control) adapter that does the same thing but it's mounted on the airvalve which is better for balance. Though I still prefer the external type for better balance and the fact that I can use it for any airbrush. The best of both worlds!HTH? Edited October 8, 2010 by Cyrus Tan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Harv Posted October 8, 2010 Author Share Posted October 8, 2010 (edited) Thanks for the additional input! I'll take a look at the Grex unit next time I swing by Phil's in El Cajon. Sounds like a nice way to go since I have both an Iwata (for most stuff) and a Badger for 'area spraying' - e.g. 1/32 top coats. The added quick release might come in handy. Again, appreciate all the input...I'm a nano-bit smarter today ;^) Edited October 8, 2010 by Harv Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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