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Fortress III Give it to Uncle


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Warped pieces from the Monogram kit? Noooooo... say it isn't so.

I've got my wings sitting under pressure to straighten them out. That all to well known gap between the wing halves on the engine nacelles is going to come back and bite me in the *ss I'm sure of it.

There's one question I have, and maybe you can answer it... why would they put curtains up in the RO compartment anyway? And did they cover up the top piece of plexiglass as well?

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The radio room also housed the radar station (which I did not build), the curtain was to block out all light for the operator as Im sure the radioman had some light to work by.

Same goes for the nose area, it gets a curtain as well although Im pretty sure thats just to cut down reflectivity in the nose area.

My wings are not warped at all, I've done some basic test fitting there and it doesn't seem "too bad".

Edited by Shawn M
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As far as I've read, some of them had the entire nose section blacked out, half of the side cockpit windows and some of the radio room, mainly it was to help the crew not lose they're night vision/get blinded by the searchlights. I havent seen anything to suggest the radio room hatch was blacked out.

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The entire nose black out is new to me, they had equipment in there that needed to transmit through the glazing.

My aircraft had partial black out on the side windows.

Mostly the window black out was to reduce reflection from the searchlights, im sure it also helped the pilots.

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True!

I decided that adapting my pilots and crew for the build is more work then I care to do. She'll be a "ghost ship" flying crew less.

Here's my B-17 almost looks real :thumbsup:

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OK,OK, she IS real, she is at March (ex Field- AF Base) Air Musieum.

And a little perspire inspireation for your ship

BooGhostGreen.gif

Great Job of work you have done so far

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The nose glass is the blunt nosed glazing, with the peak of the dome just above the join line in the glazing. Earlier G's had a more pointed glazing with the front peak at about 3/4 of the height of the nose. Then there was the really long F type glazing that was also seen on very early G models. Plus a number of these F types that were modified with single and twin 50's, and one with a 20mm canon.

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Really... first we were comparing size, and now Stephens comparing noses... what's this GB coming to?

I've heard 3, 4, 5 and 6 different plexiglass nose types, and seen those numbers tossed around wildly from time to time as well. How many different plexiglass noses were there? (on the F's and G's)?

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The nose knows...

SO last night I glued up the wings, horizontal tail surfaces, wheels, retracted the main gear and finished gluing in windows and interior bits.

Tonight I join the fuse halves and start sanding and filling.

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The nose knows...

SO last night I glued up the wings, horizontal tail surfaces, wheels, retracted the main gear and finished gluing in windows and interior bits.

Tonight I join the fuse halves and start sanding and filling.

Sounds really good! Can't wait to see some progress shots. Just and an FYI, I am SO jealous of you right now. Just so you know. I hope you feel a little guilty tonight with your progress.

Mark.

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I still have a lot of small details to incorporate...plus I have to paint it.

I have to fit the resin block off plates once the fuse is joined, attach the "window" chutes on the rear fuse, flame dampers on the turbo superchargers, drill for a LOT of antennas, make the nose curtains, blah blah blah then cut and fit the vac chin radome as well.

Without an airbrush that means I need warmish weather or I need to use my garage, then vent fumes.

I also need to order my "Prop Blurs"

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fuse halves joined-check

wing seams sanded-check

nasty gaps at nacelles puttied- check

upper turret construction started-check

test fit of resin block offs- check

I have one sprue left in the box, the clear one!

However, I have more fiddly bits, resin, vac formed bubbles and PE then I do large parts....I need to bribe the carpet monster to go away for abit...

Edited by Shawn M
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I did a real quick test fit last night of the Resin plates.

The nose piece is poorly cast and is mishapen, but what I have fits properly and will be hidden by the radome.

The ball turret block off looks like it will be perfect.

This is my first time EVER working with resin. I was surprised at how soft it is! I thought it would be more like 2 part epoxy resin that dries rock hard and is tough to work with. This stuff trims with an exacto and a razor saw cuts through it like butta!

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I did a real quick test fit last night of the Resin plates.

The nose piece is poorly cast and is mishapen, but what I have fits properly and will be hidden by the radome.

The ball turret block off looks like it will be perfect.

This is my first time EVER working with resin. I was surprised at how soft it is! I thought it would be more like 2 part epoxy resin that dries rock hard and is tough to work with. This stuff trims with an exacto and a razor saw cuts through it like butta!

As a quick tip, if you're sanding the stuff, I recommend you sand under water - pretty much eliminates any of that bad resin dust.

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5344327027_6c1c52e257_z.jpg

50 cal mounted, outside

Where the flash suppressor??....they were fitted to all 100 Group B-17's and US NLS a/c too

They are easy enough to make or just cut the cuppressor of the Quickboost 1/48 P-38M gun set

QUIC-48114.jpg

Its the little details that stand out..don't forget to black out the side windows and the sidewindows of the canopy too

Excellent work so far... :)

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