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Centurion Mk 5 NATO - Cold War Warrior


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I built this kit some time ago. I intended a very neglected look for the finish. These are the steps I have taken so far to depict a piece of armour abandoned for some time.

I need to thank my friend Rob - www.scratchmod.com for providing some excellent guidance and taking time to explain some of the techniques.

I started off with a base coat using Tamiya browns

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I then applied Hairspray and a coat of Tamiya Nato Black mixed with Brown

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The effect was then chipped using the usual method of warm water and a stiff brush. This left a darkish base for the next steps

I used the product Maskol applied with a sponge and also salt. the reason for the maskol is to apply in areas that are delicate the PE tool holders and such.

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On top of this hairspray is again applied using an air brush, and again Tamiya paints are used to paint the top coats. .

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Lighter variations of the green were sprayed around some areas to create more volume. Contrast was achieved using lighter paint tones on the side bins by masking these areas.

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The next step is to scrub away the salt using warm water. I use salt because it provides a very random effect. Also I have had difficulty with using just hairspray - finding in some cases the paint simply wont chip off.

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After these first stages - a very worn and weathered finsh is seen

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The steps above are a base for a mix of weathering steps that need to be taken to give rust effects and more paint chip effects.

The first steps were the application of more chipping and rust using using both a sponge and a paint brush

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Varnish is applied to protect all the base work. Decals are applies and chipped using a hobby knife

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some of the other details are painted at this stage in base colours

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things are still basic in appearance at this stage

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but the foundation for the next steps are complete.

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The next stage is the application of rust tones - many products are used. But as my friend suggested. The use of oil paints allows much easier control of the effects and endless variations in tones.

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The oil paints are applied as what I call micro washes. The oils are diluted with thinner for washes and applied with a number 2 brush in tiny amounts over the worn, chipped metal effects. This is nearly a "mapping" technique. It is very time consuming taking many many detailed applications. Also at this time pin washes of a dark colour are applied.

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I have many further steps recently so I shall take some photos later tonight. Any feedback is welcome.

thanks

Mark

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Big thanks for the cmments and input guys. Some more recent pictures. I have continued more work. I will get some more pics to show you the results.

The next steps are a repeat of the above - more washes, and also some pigments

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Wege and Speedster a big thanks - Im glad you like these effects. I hope more more people will try.

I decided to try and paint streaks and dirt to show that Mantlet cover in a state.

I had a big problem on the model. After repeated weathering using oils and pigments the model was taking on a sheen in some areas.

I sprayed on some Vallejo varnish from the can - unfortunately it went very very chalky ! I have had this situation before but not over the entire model. Its not a panic situation - the remedy is to take a brush dampened in alcohol brush cleaner and wash the varnish off the model. BUT the result is that some of the pigments and oils have also been washed away - it just means I need to reapply some of the weathering.

You can probably see the difference in the photos?

In the mean time I ordered a plinth base and added a very simple groundwork.

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that bolt running through the centre is essential.

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It holds the model firmly to the base, it also allows by turning the wing nut - to compress all the road wheels to the hardstanding.

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added a few "markings" I did lots of research to find something realistic likely to be marked on the hull. I settled for hand painted yellow X and a numeral

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overall rather dullish now

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can you see a rather yellowish green tone? that is a filter applied by AB that had to be applied after the mishap with the varnish

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only a few of the skirts in place

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the pigments on the exhaust are all but gone and need reapplication

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more faded "markings"

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you cant see much but this area took several applications of washes and a mixture of pigments to build up some real grime. You can see still traces of the chalky varnish here.

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I think the base works - ...

cheers

Mark

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Mark, that is just outstanding work!

Excellent tutorial, modelling and photography, well done.

Its a headache when a clear coat goes frosty like that, I had it happen to me once, funnily enough, on a Centurion model also, Tamiya's old one before AFV Club came out with theirs, and it was a nightmare trying to fix.A lot of people say, just hit it with a gloss coat, this gets rid of the chalky finish, then flat clear coat it again, but you probably know that method, and I don't think you would have wanted to hit this finish with too many clear coats.

Anyway, that is some superb work! ;)

Cheer's,

Jeff.

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A really big thanks guys. Im glad you enjoy it. If you like rusty stuff be sure to look at Robs site www.scratchmod.com he also has some great youtube tutorials.

I will get some pics up soon as im just finshing off some of the final touches.

Mark

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