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1/32 Tamiya F-4E post-Vietnam- Kicked up a notch.


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Hi Chuck,

despite this is my first comment in your post,I follow your build from the beginning and I could not be contradicted when I say that this is one, if not the ONE, most beautiful,detailed and joyful F-4 model build to follow I ever seen, both in person or by pics. Using an abused word, a masterpiece!

Hats off to the master! :worship:

:cheers: Gianni

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Thanks a LOT guys! I really appreciate the praise- partly for ego I admit, but also to know that when I was killing myself to re-do several build steps for several hours, the end result was worth it. Speaking of re-doing stuff, I noticed several tiny panel and silvered decal issues in my close-up pics, which have all now been repaired, so I re-took pics of these problem areas and punted the old ones. I also took a couple more pics of other areas, like this one to show that I did, indeed, paint that little antenna on the front gear door flat black as it should be.....

Gun3-1.jpg

Cockpit25.jpg

Cockpit11.jpg

FuselageLarge25.jpg

RearTop17.jpg

FuselageDetail1.jpg

RearTop21.jpg

Wings8.jpg

That front seat is a little crooked, but it's not glued in either....

FuselageLarge24.jpg

Edited by chuck540z3
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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Chuck

What a brilliant build the F4 has to be my most favorite american fighter jet ever.

A question for you. Can you tell me how you apply Future onto your models. did you use a normal artist brush or your airbrush ? If you used your airbrush did you thin it and if so what with and what consistancy.

I use Johnsons clear here in the UK same stuff I believe but unobtainable now (lucky I got 2 bottles of it) I've always used a flat artists brush to apply it to my models but have suffered from hair and dust so I've shyed away from using it now. However you've done a top job on the finish of your F4 and i'm interested to know your secret. Do tell.

Dave.

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Hi Chuck

What a brilliant build the F4 has to be my most favorite american fighter jet ever.

A question for you. Can you tell me how you apply Future onto your models. did you use a normal artist brush or your airbrush ? If you used your airbrush did you thin it and if so what with and what consistancy.

I use Johnsons clear here in the UK same stuff I believe but unobtainable now (lucky I got 2 bottles of it) I've always used a flat artists brush to apply it to my models but have suffered from hair and dust so I've shyed away from using it now. However you've done a top job on the finish of your F4 and i'm interested to know your secret. Do tell.

Dave.

Thanks. If you go back to post #665, I went over how I did the Future coats, but I'll just repeat it here.

I think it is crucial that in order to get a good looking final paint finish and silver free decals, you need a GREAT coat of Future. To accomplish this I do the following:

  • Sand smooth the plastic before painting with 2000# sandpaper
  • Sand smooth the painted finish with 2000# sandpaper
  • Lay down a "wet coat" of Future, using 10% Windex or ammonia mixed in to reduce surface tension
  • Sand smooth the first coat of Future with 2000# sandpaper
  • Lay down another "wet coat" of Future
  • Spray a "flash coat" of straight Windex to remove "orange peel"
  • Make sure the surfaces you are spraying are completely horizontal to avoid drips. On a big bird like this, I hold it in my hands to do the sides until it dries enough to rotate back in the vertical position

See a pattern here? You can't get a smooth finish unless you have a smooth surface to begin with, hence the multiple sanding stages with fine 2000# sandpaper. I love this stage of modeling, because not only is it the painting stage (which I like anyway), but it's the stage where a great paint finish is won or lost. The first few steps are self explanatory, but the last stage is one that I learned in the Tools and Tips Forum about 2 years ago that has really helped me achieve some really good final paint finishes. Before you apply decals, spray a fine wet coat of Windex and let it dissolve the Future somewhat as it smooths out the finish, much like melting ice and then refreezing it. As an example of what I'm talking about, here is how the model looks after a few coats of Future...

Future10.jpg

A little closer....

Future11.jpg

And closer yet. If decals silver on this finish, you are doing something very wrong....

Future13.jpg

And of course how it looks today, after decals, weathering wash, salt weathering and dull coat....

FuselageDetail17.jpg

FuselageDetail15.jpg

Note how the colors shift a bit darker with the Future coat followed by dull coat, so that's why I like to use lightened paint to begin with.

Hope this helps!

Edited by chuck540z3
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When you sand first the model and then the paint, do you sand wet or dry ?

Always dry. Although I use wet 600 grit sandpaper for the rough stuff, I never use water, although water is fine to remove dust. Due to the fine nature of 1500-2000 grit sandpaper, you know it's done when the plastic or paint starts to shine and you can run your finger along all surfaces without any rough spots, which usually occur in tight spots like wing roots. For sanding the final coat of paint, be prepared for the odd erosion of high bits like hinges, etc., which I just touch up with my air brush prior to application of Future.

The key is to have a smooth surface to begin with prior to every coat. Modelers often think that Future will smooth things out, which is does to a very small degree, but more often than not a rough spot right after a first coat of paint is still there when the model is completed.

One other tip: You can sand orange peel off a coat of Future if all else fails. Sometime you get a slight drip that can't be avoided when applying Future, so don't touch it! Just let it dry and the drip will shrink and you can sand it down after about a day of drying. A smooth paint job like this took many trips to the paint booth with lots of sanding and touch-ups in between...

RearTop11.jpg

FuselageDetail12.jpg

FuselageDetail8.jpg

Edited by chuck540z3
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Since this build is in today's submissions and I've linked this build thread within it, here's a link to my updated photo album of all the final photographs for those who are new to this project, which are in a lot higher resolution than those posted in the submission.

http://s253.photobucket.com/albums/hh66/chuck540z3/F-4E/Final%20Pics/

Thanks again guys for all your kind feedback.

Edited by chuck540z3
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  • 5 weeks later...

Thanks again Guys! I just heard from FSM magazine today that this build will be featured in the November issue. I have no idea what the scope will be since they have full control once you sign off, but it's always an honor to see your build in print. I'll probably buy 100 copies! :P

Hey chuck did you happen to haev your F-18B and your F-4 at the Edmonton show ? i saw pics that kinda looks like yours

Yes they were and they won a few more trinkets for the shelf. It was a great show and there were many quality builds there, including a few cars and a truck that blew me away, which is really saying something because I don't even like cars all that much. :D Brett Green of Hyperscale and Spencer Pollard of Military in Scale were also there to share some of their techniques and views on modeling. Gary Fairfull (Scooby) should be congratulated on a job well done!

Edited by chuck540z3
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Thanks again Guys! I just heard from FSM magazine today that this build will be featured in the November issue. I have no idea what the scope will be since they have full control once you sign off, but it's always an honor to see your build in print. I'll probably buy 100 copies! :P

Yes they were and they won a few more trinkets for the shelf. It was a great show and there were many quality builds there, including a few cars and a truck that blew me away, which is really saying something because I don't even like cars all that much. :D Brett Green of Hyperscale and Spencer Pollard of Military in Scale were also there to share some of their techniques and views on modeling. Gary Fairfull (Scooby) should be congratulated on a job well done!

Great news on FSM!

As well, it was great to see you again. I also consider myself lucky to have seen your model in person. Thanks for your kind words, it was a great time and a fun show. Brett Green and Spence were awesome!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Know I'm late on this one but thanks again for yet another epic build thread.

Excellent work all around, from the actual modeling to photos to descripions of your techniques (and not to mention your 'saves'!).

I will watch your P-51 closely, Chuck! :)

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  • 1 month later...

Congrats on a beatiful job Chuck! The highly detailed construction and the remarkable painting make this Phantom truly astonishing! And, if I may share a historical fact about this aircraft, the 68-0393 was delivered to the Hellenic Air force in 1991 painted in the Hill Grey II Camo and later on it was painted in the Ghost camo (same one that Hellenic F-16s have), until it its career ended in 2008, when all Phantoms that were not AUP upgraded were retired. Again really nice work! :salute:

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Just when you think this build has been buried forever, it pops up now and then to some very kind words. On my Birthday no less! Thank you very much guys!

You need to find a woman Chuck! I'll bet you spent more time on your Phantom than what the guys at a depot would spend to MOH a full scale one. Truly inspiring, I don't have the words.

My wife of 33 years would agree with you, just as long as it's her! I must admit to ignoring her now and then when I model, because when I really get into something, I tend to shut out the world. This bad behavior costs me plenty, I assure you!

I now have this bird in my modeling room in a place of prominence and every time I walk past it I take a closer look and think, "Wow, did I actually make THAT!?" It really did turn out looking pretty good, I think, because I know where all the flaws are and they can't really be seen without a magnifying glass. It just goes to show, that if you put some really serious time and effort into your models (14 months in this case), the results can be worth it. I hope to accomplish the same with my new Mustang build.

Having bragged a bit about my own modeling skills, there are some modelers out there that are truly at an extreme top level that I will never reach. For example, check out a modeler at LSP by the name of Wolf Buddee who is building a 1/32 Tamiya Spitfire. Holy crap is he good!! His Spit is a museum piece that provides inspiration to the rest of us mortals to try a little bit harder.

RearTop12.jpg

Cockpit4.jpg

FuselageLarge9.jpg

Edited by chuck540z3
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Having bragged a bit about my own modeling skills, there are some modelers out there that are truly at an extreme top level that I will never reach. For example, check out a modeler at LSP by the name of Wolf Buddee who is building a 1/32 Tamiya Spitfire. Holy crap is he good!! His Spit is a museum piece that provides inspiration to the rest of us mortals to try a little bit harder.

Wolf's work is jaw dropping, he even has linkages on his Spit's engine.

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  • 5 weeks later...

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