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Sticking and clear coating decals


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You can use Future (Klear, for you folks in the UK) to stick your decals down. Just use it as you would a setting solution. Brush some Future where the decal will go, then quickly put the decal down and maneuver it into position. The key is to finish the process before the Future dries. You can then overcoat the decal with more Klear or any other gloss, satin, or flat coat.

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Thanks for the replies - had a quick scout round for Klear and the old formula is available on ebay, but goes for stupid amounts of money, the new formula is available but I'm not sure if this is any good - it is called multi surface wax, has anybody tried this? - could anyone suggest something that is readily available in the uk?

Cheers :)

Edited by piescoffer
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Hi, just wondering if there is anything that can be used to stick decals down - I have had 1 or 2 that don't seem to want to stick when they have been soaked off.

Also what is best to use for clear overcoating the decals - I live in the UK by the way.

Many thanks guys.

:D

You can also put a little PVA glue (Elmer's glue) into some water to put on the model where the decal is going to go. It will add to the adhesion of the decal. But in this day and age it is rather rare to find a decal that doesn't stick to the model if the surface is properly prepared.

Bob

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cant you find the rocking horse sh** ? its right next to the hens teeth and the wing wong for the gooses bridle :D... Im having the same problem with my decals for my stuka.... managed to crack bend and flip the markings and the fueslage markings...... peeved isnt the word.... chuckles

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Thanks for the replies - had a quick scout round for Klear and the old formula is available on ebay, but goes for stupid amounts of money, the new formula is available but I'm not sure if this is any good - it is called multi surface wax, has anybody tried this? - could anyone suggest something that is readily available in the uk?

Cheers :nanner:

The future with the label that says [Pledge with Future Shine] is the same stuff only te label has changed.

Bill

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I read on another forum that the Klear has a new formulation, and that is why people are selling the old ones on ebay for like £30 a bottle. Not sure if the US version has been re-formulated but can't seem to find any info on the new formulation that we have here - and if it is any good for moddling use.

Would there likely be anything in my local art store that could be used?

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I read on another forum that the Klear has a new formulation, and that is why people are selling the old ones on ebay for like £30 a bottle. Not sure if the US version has been re-formulated but can't seem to find any info on the new formulation that we have here - and if it is any good for moddling use.

Would there likely be anything in my local art store that could be used?

The formulation of Future has not changed, It has a new label that is all.

Bill

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Would there likely be anything in my local art store that could be used?

Sure there is:

liquitex_gloss_varnish.jpg

Future is so yesterday and is designed to go over hardwood and not paint. Plus, Future turns white when decal setting solution is applied to it.

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Sure there is:

liquitex_gloss_varnish.jpg

Future is so yesterday and is designed to go over hardwood and not paint. Plus, Future turns white when decal setting solution is applied to it.

A few questions...

Are you saying I could use this for dipping canopies?

Is this just brushed or can it be airbrushed?

Can it be thinned (does it need to be thinned)?

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A few questions...

Are you saying I could use this for dipping canopies?

Is this just brushed or can it be airbrushed?

Can it be thinned (does it need to be thinned)?

No it is for lonoleum tile floors and it doesnt turn white with setting solution unless it has not set up completly,

Bill

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Are you saying I could use this for dipping canopies?

Is this just brushed or can it be airbrushed?

Can it be thinned (does it need to be thinned)?

Never tried dipping canopies in it.

It can be airbrushed straight from the bottle.

It doesn't need to be thinned. Read the back of the bottle in the pictures posted above, which says "Do not thin ..."

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Never tried dipping canopies in it.

It can be airbrushed straight from the bottle.

It doesn't need to be thinned. Read the back of the bottle in the pictures posted above, which says "Do not thin ..."

Now, now... it only says "Do not thin with water"

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Now, now... it only says "Do not thin with water"

That stuff is thick in the bottle and you could never airbrush it without thinning it. I used the matt varnish for years in ship modeling to coat rigging knots and rope coils. Future on the other hand is thin in the bottle and ready to airbrush or dip your canopys in, plus it has got to be about 1/3 the price of Liquiex varnish. The stuff is great for what it is intended for because it has permanence.

Bill

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That stuff is thick in the bottle and you could never airbrush it without thinning it

It's almost as thin as Future and airbrushed fine without thinning through my Iwata Revolution BR at 19 psi. Sure it required a little more pressure to spray, but I don't need to worry about white fogging or paint crinkling. The picture below shows the sealing gloss coat after decaling:

pic02d.jpg

I don't see the need to dip canopy. If I need to make my canopy clear and shiny, I just whip out my Tamiya Fine polishing compound and Tamiya Finish polishing compound.

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