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Revell Hawk T1 in 1/32nd scale


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Nice attention to detail Guy with the injection tubes. As always I can't wait to see more, and please keep the updates coming!

Jeremy

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The Archer rivet transfers apply in the same fashion as other water slide decals but they are indeed fragile. (I will be forced to replace a few that I've unwittingly removed)

Care must be taken to avoid having to redo too many. I've painted over some now and they seem pretty fixed although I'm still treating them with due care.

Guy,thanks for the info. Does this mean they are a PITA to get a straight and evenly spaced 'line'? ie they move all over the place when wetted.

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Hey Guy I have a question for you! Since it seems you are not going to bless us with your work for awhile and just answer questions. LOL, sorry I am done being a smart A $ $ !!!!! Seriously though, when you paint, do you use Enamels, or Acrylics? The reason I ask this is because I have a problem. I have tried painting with enamels and I really like them, but when I do a wash it turns into a steaming pile of "Cow Dung!" What happens is the enamel thinner I use to apply, thin, and blend in my wash literally will eat through any type of enamel paint. I use "Future" for my gloss coats. I have tried everything from letting it cure for just a few hours all the way to letting the "Future" cure for as long as a week and, same results. I typically do an Acrylic base coat then do an enamel wash. I however, do like enamels, but am getting frustrated with the results. Would you have any suggestions, or comments? Anything would greatly be appreciated! Thanks for your time, and hope to see an update soon!

Jeremy

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Guy,thanks for the info. Does this mean they are a PITA to get a straight and evenly spaced 'line'? ie they move all over the place when wetted.

Hello John, yes and no.

The decals are "printed" in lines on the backing medium so getting long lines of evenly spaced rivets is simply a matter of careful cutting. It is a challenge to get these lines straight though. Gentle and persistent persausion with the tip of a cocktail stick proved necessary. I also managed to break the lengths regularly getting them off the backing until I started using warmer water. That helped. Leaving them in the water a little longer helped too. Having the wet decals wander was n't too problematic. In fact, I found it necessary to re-wet them on occasion to re-position them.

I used the MicroSol/Set products to aid with positioning and adherence. Any silvering is not a problem since the backing sheet is painted along with the rivets and virtually dissolves after an application or two of MicroSol.

I like this product but it is a laborious task. I still have the right side of the fuselage to rivet which is the main reason I have n't felt like picking the model up for a while. You've definately got to be in the right frame of mind. <_<

Seriously though, when you paint, do you use Enamels, or Acrylics?

Hi Jeremy, thanks for your generous words. I have used enamels on occasion in the past but prefer acrylics for their low odour qualities.

{~snip~} I do like enamels, but am getting frustrated with the results. Would you have any suggestions, or comments? Anything would greatly be appreciated!

Jeremy

That's a good question. I think there are guys with more experience of enamels and washes who might be better able to answer this than me but I'll have a stab.

My preffered wash method is a pastel slurry rather than solvent based products. I find the low tack pastels easy to remove without damage to the underlying paint should a problem occur or if I'm not happy with the way it looks. Although I've never used them, many modellers rave over Phil Florries washes which are a similar idea.

If I were to add a wash over enamels I think I'd go with an oil paint wash.

Like you, I'd be inclined to seal the enamel with a coat or two of future and let it dry thoroughly then apply a thin wash of oil paint. Perhaps the problems occur with the length of time your wash is sitting on the model? How long do you generally leave the wash mix on the model Jeremy?

Whenever I've used a wash in the past (which is admittedly rare over a whole model) I've applied it and wiped it off almost immeadiately. Fortunately, I've never encountered the problems plaguing your build so it's difficult for me to offer advice. I hope my suggestions help though. Good luck with your next attempt.

Cheers.

:cheers:

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Hello John, yes and no.

The decals are "printed" in lines on the backing medium so getting long lines of evenly spaced rivets is simply a matter of careful cutting. It is a challenge to get these lines straight though. Gentle and persistent persausion with the tip of a cocktail stick proved necessary. I also managed to break the lengths regularly getting them off the backing until I started using warmer water. That helped. Leaving them in the water a little longer helped too. Having the wet decals wander was n't too problematic. In fact, I found it necessary to re-wet them on occasion to re-position them.

I used the MicroSol/Set products to aid with positioning and adherence. Any silvering is not a problem since the backing sheet is painted along with the rivets and virtually dissolves after an application or two of MicroSol.

I like this product but it is a laborious task. I still have the right side of the fuselage to rivet which is the main reason I have n't felt like picking the model up for a while. You've definately got to be in the right frame of mind. <_<

Hi Jeremy, thanks for your generous words. I have used enamels on occasion in the past but prefer acrylics for their low odour qualities.

That's a good question. I think there are guys with more experience of enamels and washes who might be better able to answer this than me but I'll have a stab.

My preffered wash method is a pastel slurry rather than solvent based products. I find the low tack pastels easy to remove without damage to the underlying paint should a problem occur or if I'm not happy with the way it looks. Although I've never used them, many modellers rave over Phil Florries washes which are a similar idea.

If I were to add a wash over enamels I think I'd go with an oil paint wash.

Like you, I'd be inclined to seal the enamel with a coat or two of future and let it dry thoroughly then apply a thin wash of oil paint. Perhaps the problems occur with the length of time your wash is sitting on the model? How long do you generally leave the wash mix on the model Jeremy?

Whenever I've used a wash in the past (which is admittedly rare over a whole model) I've applied it and wiped it off almost immeadiately. Fortunately, I've never encountered the problems plaguing your build so it's difficult for me to offer advice. I hope my suggestions help though. Good luck with your next attempt.

Cheers.

:cheers:

Honestly when I use an Acrylic basecoat and then add an enamel wash over it I don't have those issues. The enamel paint thinner doesn't remove the Acrylic base coat. It's only when I do an enamel wash over an enamel base coat that I get these horrific results. I might have to try the pastel but I won't do a acrylic wash because it 100% of the time ruins my models because it won't come off no matter how long I keep it on, whether it's been 2 seconds or 24 hours! Thanks for the help Guy, will let you know how things turn out on my Prowler!

Jeremy

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  • 1 month later...

Hello to all and sundry, ah, it's good to be back! :)

There has been somewhat of a lull in my hobby room of late but I have at last managed to do some modelling.

One of the jobs that I've been mulling over is the canopy MDC. Many on-line builds refer to the kit decal version of this item, some good points, some bad. As my success with any kind of decal is sporadic I considered alternatives.

Dave Roof makes a self adhesive vinyl MDC chord in 1/32nd scale for the Harrier and this seems to be an ideal solution but I'm not aware of anything similar for the Hawk yet.

The path I eventually chose involved bending a length of thin gauge wire and tracing the outline of the kit decal.

I painted the wire grey then adhered it to the inside of the canopy using future.

tn_Hawkcanopy001.jpg

tn_Hawkcanopy003.jpg

tn_Hawkcanopy009.jpg

The finished article is n't as crisp or symetrical as the decal but it looks ok from a distance.

I also took the time to add detail to the internal canopy framing where references allowed.

If anyone can share images of the internal canopy locking levers I'd be much obliged, cheers.

:cheers:

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Hello to all and sundry, ah, it's good to be back! :)

There has been somewhat of a lull in my hobby room of late but I have at last managed to do some modelling.

One of the jobs that I've been mulling over is the canopy MDC. Many on-line builds refer to the kit decal version of this item, some good points, some bad. As my success with any kind of decal is sporadic I considered alternatives.

Dave Roof makes a self adhesive vinyl MDC chord in 1/32nd scale for the Harrier and this seems to be an ideal solution but I'm not aware of anything similar for the Hawk yet.

The path I eventually chose involved bending a length of thin gauge wire and tracing the outline of the kit decal.

I painted the wire grey then adhered it to the inside of the canopy using future.

tn_Hawkcanopy001.jpg

:cheers:

Good tip on the MDC right click save as and store it under must do the same :thumbsup:

I'm glad to have you back with this one. I have a Q for you my friend would you think its wise to coat the cord first with future then glue it with future or just glue it with future without coating it? reason I ask as I fear the future will make my valleyo wet again your thoughts experience :salute:

Cheers buddy

Greetz STB

Frederick Jacobs

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......................................

......................................

The finished article is n't as crisp or symetrical as the decal but it looks ok from a distance.

I also took the time to add detail to the internal canopy framing where references allowed.

If anyone can share images of the internal canopy locking levers I'd be much obliged, cheers.

:cheers:

Oh, finally! Great update!

Maybe the MDC you simulated is not "as crisp or symmetrical as the decal", but it looks awesome!

Don't be so hard to yourself,my friend. The thingy looks great! I suppose that making such thing is not only a very time consuming process and it takes much patience for sure to do that. It is a real modeling exploit!

Eager to see more updates before long!

Cheers and happy modeling!

Alexander

:salute:

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Hi guys, glad you like it. :)

I have a Q for you my friend would you think its wise to coat the cord first with future then glue it with future or just glue it with future without coating it? reason I ask as I fear the future will make my valleyo wet again your thoughts experience :salute:

Cheers buddy

Greetz STB

Frederick Jacobs

:hmmm: Hi Frederick, that's a good question. For this MDC I used Tamiya spray can paint so it is n't upset by the future. If you are using acrylics I guess there might be a possibility of the future disturbing the pre-painted surface.

I think if I were to go that route I'd still only use the future as a glue rather than a sealant. My reason is to be sure that the wire adhered to the glazing correctly. In my experience, applying future over future tends to soften/dissolve the original first coat which could make it difficult to get the wire stuck firmly to the plastic :unsure:

So far, I have n't had a problem with using future on top of any acrylic paint brands so long as the paint is totally cured.....

Maybe a practice piece would be a sensible precaution?

I suppose that making such thing is not only a very time consuming process and it takes much patience for sure to do that.

Cheers and happy modeling!

Alexander

Hello Alexander, yes the MDC required some patience. I confess that I was hesitant to start this part as I was n't at all sure how it would work out. Luckily, the result is quite pleasing from a distance so I'm happy I eventually took the plunge ;)

(Stellar work on your Kiowa BTW. :thumbsup: )

Cheers for now.

:cheers:

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Marcel, my apologies for not replying sooner, I've only just seen your post :doh:

how on earth did you get it all to look so perfectly symmetrical and clean? Supreme cunning and skill I'm guessing...

Marcel

Just luck my friend ;)

I've finally managed to get a little bench time over the weekend and here's what I've been up to.

Those who have this kit might have noticed that it is molded in red plastic. The red is hard to work with so I chose to give myself a blank canvas to start with. I first attempted to cover the plastic in white primer thinking that it would give me a nice even base for the colours. The snag was that the white would n't cover the red :unsure:

Plan B....use black first.

tn_Basecoats003.jpg

The black covered the red quite easily.

Follow that with white.....

tn_Basecoats010.jpg

Although it sounds improbable, the white covered the black without any fuss.

That finally gave me a uniform base coat for the colours.

tn_Basecoats012.jpg

(The blue on the vertical tail is still masked in this pic.)

The colours are brought to life by a gloss coat.

tn_Basecoats0011.jpg

tn_Basecoats0015.jpg

I can almost feel the purists shudder at the idea of using so many coats of paint and they are right, the paint on this model is now 3/8ths of an inch thick........ :blink:

Next up, decalling.

Cheers for now.

:cheers:

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WOW!

No, Double WOW!

Looking very bright and shiny. Excellent idea about the painting sequence. I've got a wheels up version on the bench at the moment and I was looking for a way forwards. I'm guessing you went Chaos Black, Skull White, then ??? Red and which Blue did you use? Also how did you figure out where to mask off for the blue section?

Your Red Arrow is coming out super.

Are you going to use the decals for the underside white sections or mask and paint? Sorry to bug you with so many questions but your posts have made building my second kit so much easier. I have to thank you for taking the time and effort to post and reply.

Dan

I can't wait to see what you come up with next.

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no doubt all that paint has turned this into a 1/31 model <_<

Marcel

:lol: .

Good point Marcel. Now I'm going to have to convert all of the other models in the display case to match this one..... :wacko:

I'm guessing you went Chaos Black, Skull White, then ??? Red and which Blue did you use? Also how did you figure out where to mask off for the blue section?

Are you going to use the decals for the underside white sections or mask and paint? Sorry to bug you with so many questions but your posts have made building my second kit so much easier. I have to thank you for taking the time and effort to post and reply.

Dan

Hi Dan, good to see you here. No need to apologise my friend, ask away. If there's ever anything I can help with it will be my pleasure. ;)

To answer your questions you are exactly right with your thinking. Chaos black and Skull white whizz can primer.

The Red is Valejo "Flat red" and the blue is Valejo again, "Intense blue" but with a drop or two of Citadel Miniatures "Midnight blue" added to darken it a wee bit.

I confess that the blue section is masked by eye from reference photos so may not work when the white kit fin flash is added.......time will tell :unsure:

I hope to use the kit decal for most of the white arrow on the belly but I'll paint the white on the underside of each flap. One thing I'm a little concerned about is the opacity of the white decals over the red. If I can't get the look I need I might be begging someone to part with their spare kit decals for a small sum so that I can lay down a second layer.

I'll be sure to keep you posted with my findings.

Cheers,

:cheers:

9th August, decalling begins.

I managed a few minutes at the bench yesterday and wanted to see how my guestimated blue fin demarcation had worked out. By luck more than judgement it seems ok.

I also wanted to check what the Archer rivets look like under the kit decals too.

My one concern at this stage is that the Revell decals are n't very opaque. The white is looking slightly pink to my eyes. I'll finish off the decals and then see how everything looks before deciding whether any further action will be necessary.

Here's a look from a distance. The white looks alright fromback here.

tn_Decals014.jpg

Here's a closer look at the rivets for anyone considering them.

tn_Decals009.jpg

You might be able to make out some minor damage resulting from me having to re-position the white band after I'd positioned it incorrectly the first time. This certainly illustrated how tough the Revell decals are though.

Edited by geedubelyer
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  • 2 weeks later...

As a sideline to the decalling I've begun work on the undercarriage.

First up, the nose gear leg.

Here's how the kit parts look:

tn_FrontLandinggear004.jpg

Not much can be seen at the top of the leg so I concentrated my efforts lower down. This is how it turned out:

tn_FrontLandinggear005.jpg

tn_FrontLandinggear006.jpg

I've got paint on the mains so I'll post photos soon.

Cheers,

:cheers:

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Hi Guy,

I don't think those Revell wheels have ever looked so good on this model- nor the cockpit, the fuselage, the engines, the canopy, the......... :thumbsup:

Any more work on that Tamiya Tomcat? They are a long journey, aren't they?

Chuck

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Hi Guy,

Great progress so far! Those riveting lines look magnificent! BTW, despite on several layers you put on her the finish looks to have no orange peel effect. ;)

As for the fore leg, it looks simply stunning! But I suspect that you used a special tyre spray to make it look so clean and shiny. :rolleyes:

Cheers and happy modeling!

Alexander

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Hi Guy,

Any more work on that Tamiya Tomcat? They are a long journey, aren't they?

Chuck

Hi Chuck, good to see you back from your vacation, thanks for the kind words. The kit is good out of the box and does n't really require all of this work to look presentable but I can't help myself :rolleyes:

The Tomcat is still waiting for my return. As soon as I finish up with the Hawk I'll be back to the F-14 ;)

Hi Terry and Alexander, many thanks for the kind comments guys, much appreciated.

You are right though, that tyre does look a bit new does n't it. I'll dirty it up a bit before I finish.

Enjoy you hike in the mountains Alexander. :)

I managed to finish off the main gear legs yesterday.

The untouched kit parts....

tn_MainLandinggear002.jpg

and how they ended up under a coat of paint and with a couple of odds and sods added....

tn_MainLandinggear005.jpg

tn_MainLandinggear003.jpg

I used the heat from a lamp bulb to soften the plastic of the tyres and then squished them onto a flat, cool surface to give them a bulged, weighted look.

tn_MainLandinggear014.jpg

tn_MainLandinggear013.jpg

tn_MainLandinggear015.jpg

Thanks for looking.

:cheers:

Edited by geedubelyer
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A couple of detail shots.

First up, one for Ken Duffey. If you remember, Ken kindly posted a couple of images earlier in the thread of the high tech. security device used for keeping Hawks safe.

tn_Generalshots008.jpg

a padlock! ;)

I got the gear , flaps and smoke pod attached.

tn_Generalshots004.jpg

Finally for now, the beginnings of the fabric exhaust cover.

tn_Generalshots003.jpg

Not much more to do now so next stop, the Display case.

To everyone who added their thoughts, encouragement and words of support, I offer my gratitude, it's very much appreciated fellas. :salute:

Thanks for taking the time to stop by.

:cheers:

*Edit* spelling

Edited by geedubelyer
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Hey, Guy!

I guess it's 'all over but the shouting', but I've really enjoyed seeing all the improvements you've made to this kit- I re-read the whole thread with every new post I came across!

The gauges, vents, and rivets (boy, that looked like "fun"...worth it, though) that you added will really 'pop' in contrast to the shiny, red "F-1 car" look of this aircraft/scheme (love the little padlock, too)!

Since all I can usually think of to say is Wooooow or AWESOME! I'll leave those comments for the finished pics...hopefully out on the "1/32 tarmac" ;). I can't wait to see how the stress wrinkles you added to the airframe look under that gloss red finish...your technique for those has officially been appropriated by me for future use (thanks)!

Looking forward to seeing the end result, and thanks for once again sharing your techniques and innovations!

:cheers: &:worship:

-Rob

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Howdy Rob, Marcel and Mark, thanks for the kind thoughts guys, much appreciated.

To conclude this thread here are a couple of images of the airbrake and well.

The pipework is fashioned from wire and micro tubing, the ram is a short length of chrome tube.

tn_Airbrakeplumbing002.jpg

tn_Airbrakeplumbing003.jpg

tn_Airbrake004.jpg

So with just a sensor and two RBF tags to finish (neither of which needs documenting) I'm calling this one done.

One final thankyou to everyone who contributed. I hope you've picked up an idea or two as the build progressed, it's been great having you tag along for the ride, cheers.

:cheers:

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Hello Guy,

Great work so far, my friend! Your keen attention to the details and meticulous approach reveals your creative nature and top notch craftsmanship. Those landing gears look magnificent!

I'm eager to see your new masterpiece in the Display Case in all her Glory. ;)

Cheers and happy modeling!

Alexander

:cheers:

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