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Mixing colors - White aluminium


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Now that we've had the discussions about what color it is on the lower fuselage, and I'm about to start shooting paint. What would the ratio between white or light gray to aluminium or chrome silver to make white or "dull" aluminium? Just need to get that close match.

Randy

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Now that we've had the discussions about what color it is on the lower fuselage, and I'm about to start shooting paint. What would the ratio between white or light gray to aluminium or chrome silver to make white or "dull" aluminium? Just need to get that close match.

Randy

The precise mixing ratio is:

White or light grey 1: aluminum until it looks right to you

:)

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The precise mixing ratio is:

White or light grey 1: aluminum until it looks right to you

:)

Laughing my horizonal and vertical stabs off. That is probably the most scientifically accurate answer I've heard in quite a while.

Thanks,

Randy

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I've been mixing model paint for nigh on 30 years. I've seen people bandy about formulas for this or that like they'd been handed down to Moses on the mountain. In all my years of mixing, I've never once (not even one time) measured anything. I start with what I think is reasonably close, and then paw through my paint drawer(s) to come up with stuff that looks like it will head me in the right direction color-wise. I usually end up mixing up way more than I'd ever need, and the *worst* possible outcome is that I screw up a couple or three jars of paint. But never throw any of it away, as you may be able to use it as a base for something in the future.

In powered aircraft you're supposed to make your traffic patterns nice and neat, with square corners and precise actions at certain precise times. In soaring we don't do that. We get the glider on the ground safely, and to heck with what the pattern looks like. There's a saying that goes with that attitude - TLAR. That Looks About Right. That's pretty much my motto in life :)

Mix away until it makes your eye happy.

:)

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just start with the light gray you've chosen as "your best match",,,,add small amounts of your silver/aluminum to it,,,,tap the stir stick on a piece of plastic today,,,,look at it tomorrow,,,,,if you don't like it's "shine",,,,stir in more small amounts,,,tap, let dry,,,repeat until you're happy with the dry color, it might not look "right" when it's still wet

I've followed the SG vs WA discussion, for your F-104?,,,,hoping it would help me with my one F-4F build,,,I'm going with a bottle of MM 2117 IJN Sky Gray with some MM sliver drops in it,,,,,,the IJN was once bought for "an exact" match for some ship I did about 3 years ago,,,,,I followed advice, and then used almost 5 whole brushstrokes of it on one 1/700 model,,,,,and now have found a use for it

and I don't weather,,,if you do,,,,wow, do you ever have a lot of leeway on what color to start with

my plan probably won't match up "to your eye",,,,,and your's might not match up to mine,,,,,,but, if you end up with a light gray color that's "just a bit silvery",,,,,you've got it

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I was going to do the same but it got me thinking a way back when my build was still going in Melbourne. Had to leave for college in Sydney...damn education hasn't done nothing much for me yet except incur a huge debt (end rant).

I was going to paint the underside fully Weibullsilver or whatever they designated using the exact color match from Xtracolor enamel range then start slowly building up what I perceived to be the weathered grey look slowly starting at the panel lines. If you do it in thin enough coats and let each coat dry for a couple days to see the real color as suggested above, I think you can gradually build up to a realistic weathered German bird.

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I have done several in the grey alu underside. It is also mentioned that FS-36375 should be ok on the starfighter. But ifaik not pure alu on the underside as some of the instructions tell :salute:

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Edited by Eric2020
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The precise mixing ratio is:

White or light grey 1: aluminum until it looks right to you

:)

Agree with Jennings here.

Best to mix pure white with the alu and add black little by little until it looks right.

These things weathered like mad so whatever looks right to you it is.

Two things you might consider though.

If the bottom of the plane is a dull light grey make sure the top colours are faded as well.

If the bottom is a more metallic hue then the top colours should be "fresher" as well.

The Hagegawa / Revell kit has stunning river detail on the wings.

On the real thing these rivets are invisible though so you might want to fill them.

Enjoy your build.

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The Hagegawa / Revell kit has stunning river detail on the wings.

On the real thing these rivets are invisible though so you might want to fill them.

One of the more disappointing features of the Hasegawa Zipper kit. Those divots were done before Trumpeter came on the scene, so my guess is that the tool maker who was responsible for that defected and went to work for Trumpeter. Real F-104s are smooth as a baby's butt all over - not a divot in sight. And those things are VERY hard to fill (and very tedious). They're too deep to look realistic, and too shallow to hold filler very well.

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