Janissary Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 (edited) Hello, this will be my next attempt: >>Fresh F-15K<< I will try to to convert Revell's E into K. A number of fellow modelers have already provided some information for this conversion: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=228394&st=0&p=2178932& I am in the process of painting the cockpit with MM aircraft engine black and Tamiya X-18. I removed the seam line on the canopy. For the HUD, I will be using iridescent film I got from Michaels. I got the idea from some recent posts here at ARC, which I traced back to this link I also applied a first coat of surfacer to the seam lines. After a few more coats, I will try to sand them down. Painting these intakes will be interesting as there is both grey and white which meet toward the middle if I am not mistaken. Airbrushing is always problematic for me in these tight spaces. Edited December 15, 2013 by Janissary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheBruin Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 i'm thinking of building one F-15K in the future as well, will watch this thread closely Quote Link to post Share on other sites
strikeeagle801 Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 (edited) Painting these intakes will be interesting as there is both grey and white which meet toward the middle if I am not mistaken. Nice work so far. Yes, the gray extends 6 feet (1.5 inches in 1/48) into the intakes before the white "takes over". Aaron Edited April 25, 2011 by strikeeagle801 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted May 16, 2011 Author Share Posted May 16, 2011 (edited) Hello, some more progress on the eagle. Cockpit was painted with various shades of black and dry brushed. The buttons and dials were painted last. I spent quite a bit of time sanding the inside of the intakes and painting. The yellow is MM zinc chromate airbrushed. The white is latex paint (dipping the intake into the paint). I filled the pylon holes with stretched sprue and cut the horizontal stabs. Dry fitting was very important for the front-back fuselage. To make the halves match flush, I added some structural support to both. This prevents an otherwise big step when the parts are glued. I cut and bent the outer flaps. I am also working on the panel lines. In this model I am using UMM's scriber to deepen all the panel lines. I have to admit this is the best scriber I have ever used! The razor is also very good. Edited May 16, 2011 by Janissary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted May 16, 2011 Author Share Posted May 16, 2011 I am now nearing the end of the construction phase. All seams were treated in this order: Basic putty using super glue + accelerator, sanding with various tools, detail puttying with tamiya white surfacer, final sanding with various tools and grit sizes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted May 16, 2011 Author Share Posted May 16, 2011 The next step is to attach the intake fronts and treat the gun muzzle. I will then deepen/reopen all panel lines and do some riveting. Thus far, I have used the following tools for sanding and scribing. I have more appreciation for the tools that are well designed. I really like all of them. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
strikeeagle801 Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 Looking good so far. One pointer...the louvered vent behind and below the cockpit in this pic needs to be filled in for F-15K's. It was deleted on late-model F-15E's, and never put on F-15S/I/K/SG's. Aaron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jinxter13 Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 OUTSTANDING!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nightshade1 Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 Oh man, a fighter jet in primer is like a hot lady in lingerie! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mario krijan Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 Great work!! Keep it up! :-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted June 2, 2011 Author Share Posted June 2, 2011 Hello, a few more updates. I rescribed all panel lines with UMM's scriber. I marked the panels I recribed so that I would not deepen them further. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted June 2, 2011 Author Share Posted June 2, 2011 I also added filled the gap in the gun with putty and sanded to shape. I also added the gps dome but it is a little oversized and I think in a slightly wrong position. I attached the windshield and temporarily placed the HUD. I could not catch the right angle but I am glad I tried the iridescent film idea. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted June 2, 2011 Author Share Posted June 2, 2011 Using Honza'a F-15E as a guide, I added some rivets to the top surfaces. I also painted the exhaust section with different shades of Alclad and MM metalizers. I used Future as the primer cut with Windex. I have found it to provide a clean gloss surface for Alclad. I also tried some asymmetrical panel painting based on the few pictures I have seen. I plan to weather the metallic sections later. I tried to do the K-specific antennas from the fins of an LGB out of a F-117 model. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sharkey Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 You're doing a great job. I love the F-15K Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Qian Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 This is looking really good so far! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted June 3, 2011 Author Share Posted June 3, 2011 Thank you very much Sharkey and Qian. I am on standby mode as I cannot figure out how to tackle the following problem: The sides of the windshield sit pretty cleanly on the IP. However, I still would like to lose the seamline between the windshield and the body, but using a safe method. In the past, I used CA or Tamiya liquid putty to fill in the gaps and later sand it down. However, in this case, I don't think that is too necessary. What I am looking for is some thin putty that can simply seal the seam up without sanding. I would like to avoid the use of any solvents (like alcohol or thinner) during clean up. Something that I can thin down with water and can wipe the excess off with a wet brush or cloth would be ideal. Any thoughts? I thought about using white glue thinned down with water and carefully brush it along the seam. Will this work? I am not sure if it will level out right. I am open to all suggestions. Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
strikeeagle801 Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 White glue, as you suggested, or maybe Future would be my choice. I actually just leave that area the way it is usually. If you look at an F-15's windscreen, it often is not a "perfect fit" on the real thing either. Look at a close-up shot, such as a air-to-air refueling or something, and you'll see. I don't know if the sealent comes out frequently, or what exactly happens, but there is a gap there a lot of times. Also, since you are doing a "naked" one, you could always say that the sealent has not been applied yet. Aaron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
geedubelyer Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 Hello Jannisary, very neat work on your Eagle so far. What I am looking for is some thin putty that can simply seal the seam up without sanding. Any thoughts? Another alternative might be typewriter correction fluid. Here in the UK it goes under the trade name "Tippex". There are also other brands available so you should be able to find something similar locally. Apply the correction fluid then wipe away with a moist Q-tip. I use acrylic paints which don't affect the cured correction fluid at all. If you use enamels I'd suggest trying a practice piece first to avoid any unexpected reactions. HTH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ken Middleton Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 great work - the nozzles and metal backend look terrific! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted June 5, 2011 Author Share Posted June 5, 2011 Thank you everybody for the suggestions and feedback. I ended up using white glue to seal the seam and wiped off the excess with a wet brush. I think it worked out ok. Finally I am onto the more exciting part of the build. I applied Surfacer 1200 thinned with Mr. Leveling thinner. After fixing a few issues, I cleaned up the surface with an old tshirt and a toothbrush. I am now onto applying the colors. I started with Tamiya XF-4 with a little bit of white added. I also add X-22 to the mix to give some sheen to the otherwise flat paint. I plan to mask certain panels and paint them with different shades of the yellow. I will then move onto the green and other colors. These builds are a great inspiration to me: http://www.network54.com/Forum/620142/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted June 10, 2011 Author Share Posted June 10, 2011 Hello, I am continuing with painting. The most time consuming part is masking each panel. I use tamiya tape, parafilm and scotch tape for this. The colors are too vivid at this time, I will need to weather the model later to make it more realistic. I mark each panel with the color I will use to paint There are still tons of panel I'll need to paint. I finally managed to knock off the antenna in front of the speed brake :( I filled it up with melted sprue for now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HOLMES Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 incredible work so far.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ken Middleton Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 wow, that is nice! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maly149 Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 love the scheme! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikejapan Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 Wow, looks like a pic out of the Air Force magazine! Looks great! Nice masking! Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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