Sebastian Haff Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 What do you guys use to thin Gunze acrylics for airbrushing?I can't make it to the LHS for Gunze thinner. I have some Model Master Thinner but I'm thinking it may not be compatible. Seems like I've heard distilled water or isopryl alcohol. Any info much appreciated. Thanks Aaron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cop Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 Isopryl alcohol, Tamiya thinner and Cellulose thinners all do the job. I tend to use the Tamiya thinners. But I have been experimenting with 20% distilled water 70% isopryl alcohol and 10% retarder. It seems to give the same results as the Tamiya thinners but at a fraction of the cost. Hope that helps. Nige. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Big Kev Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 (edited) You can thin Gunze acrylics with a wide variety of materials, all with varying effects and results. I've taken lately to using Mr Color Thinner, but have in past used Tamiya X-20A with good results. I've also used methylated spirits and even Windex. Kev Edited April 27, 2011 by Big Kev Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chuck1945 Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 I used Isopropyl alcohol until I started using Tamiya X-20A (which is water, alcohol, and a touch of retarder). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nubaba Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 I use the Tamiya X-20A as well and it always works out great. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted April 29, 2011 Share Posted April 29, 2011 Been using mostly Tamiya X-20A thinner, and occasionally denatured alcohol. These days, I prefer the X-20A because I can use the same thinner to thin Tamiya, Gunze, and LifeColor. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sebastian Haff Posted April 29, 2011 Author Share Posted April 29, 2011 Thanks for the info. I did end up making it to my LHS and picked up some X-20A. I also picked up some Mr. Hobby, Mr. Color Thinner 50. Can this latter be used to thin other acrylics? I'm assuming it will work with Tamiya, but what about MM or Polly Scale? These latter are the bulk of my acrylics. I mostly use enamels so I'm fairly clueless about acrylic compatabilities. Thanks Aaron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Big Kev Posted April 29, 2011 Share Posted April 29, 2011 Mr Color Thinner can indeed be used to thin Tamiya acrylics. I can't advise you about the other brands, unfortunately. Kev Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichardL Posted April 29, 2011 Share Posted April 29, 2011 Distilled water gives me the best finish when thinning Gunze acrylics. Tamiya X-20A usually gives me a somewhat pebbly finish. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 Distilled water gives me the best finish when thinning Gunze acrylics. Tamiya X-20A usually gives me a somewhat pebbly finish. Haven't tried using distilled water with Gunze. I always use Tamiya X-20A for both Tamiya and Gunze acryls. No problem. I usually mix 2 parts thinner with 1 part paint, then spray in light mist at low pressure (12 Psi). Distilled water is best for LifeColor and Citadel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
smithery Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 I tend to be "thrifty" (read: cheap). I use either el cheapo drug store brand rubbing alcohol, or windshield washer fluid. The suirp gives me an even finsih all the time, and can be used to thin both my Gunze and my Tamiya. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sabre45 Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 I use distelled water with no problems and it's cheap. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JackMan Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 (edited) Distilled water gives me the best finish when thinning Gunze acrylics. Tamiya X-20A usually gives me a somewhat pebbly finish. For those of you who have had success thinning Gunze Aqueous Hobby (ie Gunze Acrylics) with Tamiya X-20... A) what was your paint to thinner ratio & B ) at what pressure did you airbrush? Like Richard, I too am getting pebbly surface. I use a Tamiya Superfine 0.2mm nozzle as well as a Badger Patriot 105. I build mainly 1/72 scale. Also, has anyone tried thinning the Gunze with Windex? Edited June 16, 2011 by JackMan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 (edited) For those of you who have had success thinning Gunze Aqueous Hobby (ie Gunze Acrylics) with Tamiya X-20... A) what was your paint to thinner ratio & B ) at what pressure did you airbrush? Like Richard, I too am getting pebbly surface. I use a Tamiya Superfine 0.2mm nozzle as well as a Badger Patriot 105. I build mainly 1/72 scale. Also, has anyone tried thinning the Gunze with Windex? It's Tamiya X-20A NOT X-20. X-20 is enamel thinner. X-20A is acrylic. I use X-20A to thin Gunze Aqueous all the time (sometimes with denatured alcohol). I typically mix 1.5ml of thinner with 1ml of paint, airbrushed at 10-12Psi using dual-action gravity AB. Also, I don't shoot the paint at full throttle. I only pulled back the trigger enough for misty spray (probably only 1/3). Edited June 16, 2011 by Mike C Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JackMan Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 It's Tamiya X-20A NOT X-20. X-20 is enamel thinner. X-20A is acrylic. My bad. Yes, the one I have is X-20A. I use X-20A to thin Gunze Aqueous all the time (sometimes with denatured alcohol). I typically mix 1.5ml of thinner with 1ml of paint, airbrushed at 10-12Psi using dual-action gravity AB. Also, I don't shoot the paint at full throttle. I only pulled back the trigger enough for misty spray (probably only 1/3). Hmmm, so you use more thinner than paint. I'll give that a try. I have tried only 3-4 drops of X-20A for a teaspoonful of Gunze. I'm new to airbrushing and am trying to get my hands dirty in this mystical art. Thanks for the tips, Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
toadwbg Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 My mixing ratios for Gunze or Tamiya are typically 50/50 or better thinner. I shoot at a low pressure 12-16 psi and put on light misty coats Robbins up opacity of the pant layer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chuck1945 Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Likewise, I usually begin 1:1 and for fine work useapprox 2:1 thinner:paint ratio. Gravity feed AB approx 10-12 psi for general coverage, 8-10psi for stuff like 1/72 Luftwaffe mottling. Both Gunze Aqueous and Tamiya acrylics are formulated to use an alcohol based thinner, since water is a major part of alcohol, water can be used (as a couple of people noted), but generally better results should be obtained using alcohol as a thinner. And that is also why alcohol is the major ingredient in Tamiya's X-20A thinner. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JackMan Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 My mixing ratios for Gunze or Tamiya are typically 50/50 or better thinner. I shoot at a low pressure 12-16 psi and put on light misty coats Robbins up opacity of the pant layer. Likewise, I usually begin 1:1 and for fine work useapprox 2:1 thinner:paint ratio. Gravity feed AB approx 10-12 psi for general coverage, 8-10psi for stuff like 1/72 Luftwaffe mottling. This evening I tried thinning my Gunze with approximately 50:50 using X-20A. Because of this thin ratio, does your paint look very watery (like Watercolour watery)? Coming from a background of brushpainting enamels like Humbrol & MM, the watery nature of diluted acrylics makes me suspicious of whether I can get good coverage. Anyway,I sprayed the 50:50 mixture on a test piece & it went on smoother than my previous attempts (ie less pebbly effect) and got a good shine ( Gunze paints seem mainly gloss or semi-gloss). However, it doesn't seem to cover much of the preshading because it's so dilute. Do I have to paint 2 or 3 coats or am I using too thinned paint? If not, how long should I wait before I attempt the 2nd or 3rd coat? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
toadwbg Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 However, it doesn't seem to cover much of the preshading because it's so dilute. Do I have to paint 2 or 3 coats or am I using too thinned paint? If not, how long should I wait before I attempt the 2nd or 3rd coat? I lightly mist my coats and build up the layer over the session. So it's not like I'm laying down 3 layers but revisiting areas that need more opacity after 30 seconds or so. If you have good lighting, you can actually see the paint going on wet and see it dry in seconds, than you know your ready for more in that area. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chuck1945 Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 wot he said :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JackMan Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 (edited) Thanks much! I'll give it a go the next time Really appreciate the tips Edited June 17, 2011 by JackMan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Big Kev Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Also, has anyone tried thinning the Gunze with Windex? Yes, and I wouldn't really recommend it. Gunze acrylics, especially their gloss and semi-gloss ranges, are already soft and slow-curing enough, and Windex only exacerbates these qualities, without any appreciable benefits. Don't get me wrong, it works, but personally I've had the best success with Mr Color Thinner (I've also used X-20A in the past to good effect). If you're desperate, and your local conditions aren't too dry or hot, methylated spirits (denatured alcohol) also works well. Kev Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 (edited) I've just sprayed a few thin layers of Gunze Aqueous FS36375 on my Hornet over the past couple of days. The first 3 layers were thinned with Tamiya X-20A, the last layer that I just sprayed a few mins ago was thinned with methylated spirit (a.k.a. denatured alcohol). I noticed the last layer having "the best" coverage and finish. The previous 3 layers thinned with X-20A were too runny (I used the same ratio in all cases). Edited June 18, 2011 by Mike C Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JackMan Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Yes, and I wouldn't really recommend it. Gunze acrylics, especially their gloss and semi-gloss ranges, are already soft and slow-curing enough, and Windex only exacerbates these qualities, without any appreciable benefits. Kev Could I ask what you mean by the underlined words? Windex slows the drying time of the Gunze Acrylics? I've just sprayed a few thin layers of Gunze Aqueous FS36375 on my Hornet over the past couple of days. The first 3 layers were thinned with Tamiya X-20A, the last layer that I just sprayed a few mins ago was thinned with methylated spirit (a.k.a. denatured alcohol). I noticed the last layer having "the best" coverage and finish. The previous 3 layers thinned with X-20A were too runny (I used the same ratio in all cases). Wow, FOUR layers. How long did you have to wait between layers? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Big Kev Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Could I ask what you mean by the underlined words? Windex slows the drying time of the Gunze Acrylics? Not so much the drying time, but the curing time. Gunze gloss and semi-gloss acrylics remain soft (and therefore not fully cured) for quite some time after they become touch dry. In fact, if the paint is old, not mixed properly with the thinner, or an inappropriate thinner used, it can take a week or more to fully harden. Using Windex as a thinner with these paints seems to slow the cure time, especially compared with something like denatured alcohol (methylated spirits in my case). I just don't think there's any real advantage to using Windex, even though it works. Kev Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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