JMan Posted May 27, 2011 Share Posted May 27, 2011 I don't have a picture yet but I glued the fuselage halves together last night. I had to break the inner side of the intake trunks off and refit that side, but once I did that the parts went together smooth like butter. Shows how much trouble even 1-2mm can be. On the otherhand, the massive amount of putty and sanding required to fix/blend the front end of the fuselage sides will obliterate all the details. Should I just leave off the details and have a "smooth" tomcat front, or use stretch sprue to try and replace lost lines? If so, the idea intrigues me but I may need some hints on how to glue the sprue back on. What do you guys do in this case? Any time that I think I might be losing any type of detail I will actually scribe the lines quite deep and go over them until all sanding is done. If I remember correctly these older Tomcat kits have raised panel lines. Have you thought about sanding them down and scribing the lines in? HTH! Jeremy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAIN Posted May 27, 2011 Author Share Posted May 27, 2011 If I remember correctly these older Tomcat kits have raised panel lines. Have you thought about sanding them down and scribing the lines in? HTH! Yup, I took that idea, stuck a pin in it and put it up right over there...ya see it? LOL. These two kits I'm doing a WIP for will most likely be the last raised panel line kits I ever make if I can avoid it (save for no A-6E in 1/48 with recessed lines, or an A-10 in 1/48 that I can't find). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Darren Roberts Posted May 27, 2011 Share Posted May 27, 2011 I simply leave off the detail on the front fuselage after I obliterate it with sanding. With some weathering and dirtying, you can't really tell. You could also put it back on with a pencil or pen. That's an easier option than scribing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAIN Posted May 31, 2011 Author Share Posted May 31, 2011 Few updates. Again, intakes and body halves glued together I started work on the horizontal stabs. Lots of puttying and sanding Building engine exhausts and fitting Also, something I haven't heard anyone mention before but it bothers me. I have separated the main wheel wells from the doors attached to them. That way I can work on them separately. Plus, how could I control the white inside vs the gray outside when it comes to spraying? Lots of work, and I'm most frustrated with trying to fix that darn front end fuselage seam. I tried so hard not to lose detail, used the fencing method...all for nothing. It's just so misaligned and deep that puttying/sanding destroys it all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dsmith Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 Yea, with this kit, the only way to get the detail on the nose after filling the gaps is to rescribe. I use CA to fill almost all my seams. With the old Monogram kits, it's shim, shim, CA, CA repeat :) It is looking good though. Keep at it! Cheers, -Doug :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dsmith Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 Oh, and I do that too (cut of the gear doors). It makes painting much easier. Cheers, -Doug :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAIN Posted May 31, 2011 Author Share Posted May 31, 2011 Yea, with this kit, the only way to get the detail on the nose after filling the gaps is to rescribe. I use CA to fill almost all my seams. With the old Monogram kits, it's shim, shim, CA, CA repeat :) It is looking good though. Keep at it! Superglue for seams? Have any more info on procedures with that? Does it work nicer than putty? I thinned the Bondo with lacquer thinner and it was really smooth but still very porousy. I feel like I have to do it several times, like 3 for sure to get it really nice. And that is already AFTER I've done the whole Hawkey method (really hard on this particular model to get them lined up right). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dsmith Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 Yes, super glue is my prefered filler, especially if you are going to rescribe over it. If you have to rescribe, the only putty you can really use is an epoxy-type. As for CA, you just put it in the seam, hit it with accelerator, give it a minute or so, and then sand it smooth. I use three different types, the thin, medium, and thick, depending on the gap. Be really careful with the thin stuff though, it will run just like water, and get sucked into just about anywhere - ask me how I know.... On the Monogram F-106 I am working on, I used CA for every seam accept where I got a step in the intake to fuselage joint. Good stuff. Cheers, -Doug :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
catfan Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 i love watching this forum because it will help me with problems i might encounter when i start to build my tomcats. and i plan to learn a lot from this and to rain i love to watch your progress and just keep up with it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAIN Posted June 7, 2011 Author Share Posted June 7, 2011 (edited) Sorry, not many updates. Going slow. You know, summer, outside, etc.... I have received my package from Gonzalo (thank you very much). I noticed that if I want to put AIM-54s on the pylons there are no bulges (as for sparrows), so I've cut them off and puttying them back up flush. Added a pin rather than the plastic antenna. Also, my modified hasegawa IR seeker to a TCS is done and glued. And when I took off the tape covering the cockpit, I noticed in my horror that something white poured all over and dried hard on the inside consoles (see the screens). ARG!!! Don't know what to do about that now. So, enough for now. I can't wait to prime and paint this thing because right now it just looks FUGLY....I really feel like a beginner. And I feel like I've somehow taken a step back from the A-7E I did back in Feb. Edited June 7, 2011 by RAIN Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAIN Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 Painted missiles with yellow stripes And painted the exhaust cans with Alclad II Semi-Dull Aluminum, then I taped every petal, sprayed some Steel, and then some misting of Jet Exhaust. Took off the tape and this is what I got. Primed the plane. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graves_09 Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Nice work thus far, one suggestion, the missile pylon needs to be modified further to make it correct for the phoenix. The shape is different as seen here: http://www.anft.net/f-14/f14-detail-crankedpylons.htm . The break down of the actual plyon is more like the Hasegawa kit, where the bottom half can be changed out depending on the weapon. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
catfan Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 OK so i my self i am build ind a F-14B in 1/48 using the revell kit but i am doing the famous grim reaper jet called tomato because of the use of a lot of red on the jet but hear i s my question i found a picture of the jet at an air show and it was loaded with weapons but on the right side of the plane there is the pylon with a triple ejection rack but i don't know what is on the pylon i see a rocket pod and a jamming pod and some thing else if you know what picture I'm talking about maybe you can help Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAIN Posted June 19, 2011 Author Share Posted June 19, 2011 Can you post a link? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAIN Posted June 22, 2011 Author Share Posted June 22, 2011 Started painting and have a few issues. Preshading done. Then did the bottom with Dark Ghost Gray, and top with Medium Gray. The Medium gray looks more bluish then I seem to see on others pictures. The preshading does come through, but not enough, my fault. I want to dirty her up a lot more and need suggestions. Also, the Medium gray layer seems to have gone onto the model a bit fuzzy, like the top of a peach? How do I fix that? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Darren Roberts Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 If the surface texture or your paint isn't smooth, get some sanding cloths. They start at around 4000 grit and work down to 12,000 or beyond. The 4,000 grit will take care of the "fuzz" and give you a nice, smooth finish. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAIN Posted June 22, 2011 Author Share Posted June 22, 2011 If the surface texture or your paint isn't smooth, get some sanding cloths. They start at around 4000 grit and work down to 12,000 or beyond. The 4,000 grit will take care of the "fuzz" and give you a nice, smooth finish. Where do you get sanding cloths that fine? It's hard enough for me to find 2,000 grit at Canadian tire? Is this a home depot thing? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PlasticWeapons Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 At Sprue Brothers! Here's the Micro Mesh polishing kit: http://store.spruebrothers.com/categories.aspx?Keyword=micromesh The sanding cloths are also sold separately. You can find these sanding cloths and similar sanding films online at Micro Mark too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gonzalo Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Sorry, not many updates. Going slow. You know, summer, outside, etc.... I have received my package from Gonzalo (thank you very much). I noticed that if I want to put AIM-54s on the pylons there are no bulges (as for sparrows), so I've cut them off and puttying them back up flush. Added a pin rather than the plastic antenna. Also, my modified hasegawa IR seeker to a TCS is done and glued. And when I took off the tape covering the cockpit, I noticed in my horror that something white poured all over and dried hard on the inside consoles (see the screens). ARG!!! Don't know what to do about that now. So, enough for now. I can't wait to prime and paint this thing because right now it just looks FUGLY....I really feel like a beginner. And I feel like I've somehow taken a step back from the A-7E I did back in Feb. It was my pleasure! Enjoy the parts and keep up the good work! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAIN Posted June 30, 2011 Author Share Posted June 30, 2011 (edited) ARG! I was painting the fins on some AIM-7 sparrows in black, and the edges were too difficult for me to get a crisp line, so I pulled out a STAEDTLER .1mm draftsman pen to do the edges. Everything looked real good and tight.....until this morning. To my horror the pen must have bled overnite onto the gray surroundings, no it looks like some childish painting attempt. I'm slightly confused though because I've used this black pen to do the fine lines on ejection seat releases (over the yellow) with no problem. Edited June 30, 2011 by RAIN Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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