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Neo

Using dry transfer on BMF

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Hi

just wondering if its ok to use these stencils on Bare metal foil finish(using kitchen foil)

Should i future the surface first?

Kit 1/24 trumpy P-51D

Cheers

Neo

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It's perfectly fine, and there isn't a need for future before hand. There are a few things to keep in mind though Neo,

1. Patience! *This is going to sound dirty no matter how I write it, so just bear with me* Much better to rub lightly for a long time, than vigorously for a short time. Reason being is that any glue that's underneath where you're rubbing will be pushed aside in a very noticeable manner, making it look like junk.

2. Wood Vs Metal or Plastic - rub with a toothpick or a piece of balsa in a circular manner, rather than a piece of metal or plastic... this will go to further ensure that the glue-pushing issue mentioned above doesn't happen.

3. Stick to the dry transfer stencils, and not the long lines - if there's dry transfers that are long lines (walk lines, prop lines, compressor disc lines, etc), avoid using them. In my experiences, they tend to be more of a PITA than help, here I'd either paint them or decal.

Hope this helps!

Mark.

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Hey mark

thanks for the info

I tried not to but i does sound quite dirty !!

Neo

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Hey Neo, I think dry transfers are great, but when you intend to use them on BMF (Where we all suppose they would be their best use) you have to keep in mind: never try on Metallizers, resin aftermarket, or Mr. Metal Color (the kind of paint similar to Model Master metallizers).

The reason is, paint doesn't stick to surface very well, even if you use a primer coat (mr. Sufacer or similar). When you rub dry transfer, then will start to hear several "clicks". That is paint being pulled off your model.

On Alclad regular shine, Mr. Color, and acrylics and using a primer coat will never have any problems.

Maybe if someone knows how to avoid this, I'll thank forever to know it

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