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Starting my 1/72 scale Shuttle/Booster kit


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I guess cheap is relative. I uploaded the first draft of it, just to check the price. As it stands now it's right under $12 a piece in White Strong Flexible. Not too too bad. I may play with it a bit and see if I can cut some of the volume down. Also, the model rendered a little wonky looking on their site, which might just be how their program renders it. Again, I'm not sure if I'll do these or not but they are pretty visable on the model and I think would look great. We'll see.

Bill

LOL, 12 bucks, what resolution is that? it cost 10 times that to print a smallish aircraft tire with the typical resolution found in the modeling industry, say Brassin parts for example.

Edited by Brian 1
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I just read the rest of the thread and see that you are doing the shape way print. You have a good eye for detail and I think you will be disappointed. I have seen some of their stuff and it has a granular texture to it, kinda slightly fuzzy. If you plan on casting your nozzle its not going to survive the first pull, you need to support the outer tubing or it will be destroyed. Also your nozzle doesn't have the nitrogen tubing detail inside and outside of the nozzle, there's already a killer set available, why all of the effort? :whistle:

IMG_2309.jpg

Edited by Brian 1
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...there's already a killer set available, why all of the effort? :whistle:/>/>/>

hmmm...because this is my hobby :rolleyes:/>/> . And as part of a hobby, I enjoy doing things myself. Because I feel a sense of accomplishment when something I've designed or built works and learn lessons when they don't. And BTW the nitrogen tubing on the inside of the real SSME's is SOOOO small that it really only appears as thin streaks and less like raised or recessed details. I know some manufactures go to great lengths to add that detail when in MY opinion it's an overkill detail that would be best represented with a good paint job. Also, the nozzles are going to have FOD covers for this build. Not downing the killer set that's out there mind you, just my personal opinion. But thanks anyway.

Bill

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Bill,

The SRB skirt looks great!

Did you get the SSME nozzles printed yet?

Mike.

Thanks Mike. I have ordered them and they should be in Monday I believe. Hopefully they'll turn out ok, even without the nitrogen lines inside the nozzles. :woot.gif:

I'll post up pics when I get them.

Bill

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LOL, 12 bucks, what resolution is that? it cost 10 times that to print a smallish aircraft tire with the typical resolution found in the modeling industry, say Brassin parts for example.

The price of 3D printed parts is a function of the material specified and the volume of the material used to print the part. The amount of detail has nothing to do with the price. Something like a wheel - if modeled and printed as a solid piece (vs hollow) - could end up being more expensive just based on the amount of material required.

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I love the SRB skirt detail! The upper portion of the SRB's (near the nose cone) could use some correction and detail as well, have you thought about creating a 3D part for that?

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I think you contradicted yourself. Regardless, looking forward to your printing results.

LOL..ok, how so? And no need to get defensive or whatever, you guys parts are great. Regardless of the limitations of resin casring, you guys have some great looking nozzles.I just decided to go different route, it's as simple as that. I appreciate your interest in my build and placing images of your killer parts here.

Thanks,

Bill

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The price of 3D printed parts is a function of the material specified and the volume of the material used to print the part. The amount of detail has nothing to do with the price. Something like a wheel - if modeled and printed as a solid piece (vs hollow) - could end up being more expensive just based on the amount of material required.

The amount of detail the machine can replicate (resolution, aka no lines through the part) not the detail of the part drives the price first then build volume and material (time and material)is second, then the amount of disolvable support matrial used is third when factoring price.

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I love the SRB skirt detail! The upper portion of the SRB's (near the nose cone) could use some correction and detail as well, have you thought about creating a 3D part for that?

I have actually. I have the cone itself modeled complete with the bolt recesses around the edge. I have done some of the area below that but have to get an accurate developed view of the patterns to wrap around the cylinder. Also need to make sure their material could withstand the stress of totally supporting the ET. But I will do something probably.

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To each his own, but I'm curious, if you feel the nitrogen tubing is too exagerated, why did you use go to the trouble of using the textured paint for the ET? Its like gravel in 72nd scale.

Also BTW, compare the ET , which is close to half of the mass of the whole model, and it's external texture, which was already added by the manufacturer ( I just made it slightly more to scale) to the SSMEs internal surface, which sits at the very bottom of the stack a few inches off the ground out of sight. Which one is more likely to be seen?just a matter of perspective I suppose.

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Aw geez ... did I miss a phight? :touche::chain-gun::fight:

Bill, I'm curious to see the 3D'd SSMEs and I'm glad to see you exploring this 'new' technology. I'm sure we're all curious to see how much these parts cost, what kind of quality we'll get and whatever other information you'll share with us. Plus what ever other info we can get like resolution, limitations from the other guys.

Keep on doin' what yer doin'.

thanx!

Pete

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Aw geez ... did I miss a phight? :touche:/>/>/>/> :chain-gun:/>/>/>/> :fight:/>/>/>/>

Pete

Nahh, I wouldn't say a fight. Just a little "communication" going on, that's all. I think I'd given him my opinion about the internal nitrogen lines and the thick edge and stuff before when he first came in this thread and advertised their SSMEs, and some take friendly criticism well while others don't. But if you're an Avon sales lady and you come into my house to sell me some perfume, you have to expect that I might say I don't like the smell too much.

ANNNNYWAY, I did get the ETARs in yesterday and overall I am pleased with them as far as the prints go(a very little texture, show ya'll that later). The biggest problem with them is MY goof. Instead of measuring the kits Max. O.D. I went by drawings of the real ETAR for the o.d. and matched the kits I.D., and apparently Monograms SRB's must have a very slightly over-scaled diamter. :bandhead2:/>/>/> Sooo what that means is these parts fit perfectly, but they don't appear to stick out from the surface quite far enough. I'll post pics later tonight if I get a chance. If it's as off as I think they are, I'll just add about 1/32" or so to the model and maybe have them re-printed. But that's part of the hobby, test, learn, test learn maybe succeed.

Til later guys, thanks for checking in.

Bill

Edited by niart17
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I have a question for you guys. IF this part were available to the public, would it be better to model the hold down bolts at the bottom and it be part of this structure OR leave a small hole that can be used to actually hold the stack down by the using small screws and nuts ORRR just leave it flat as is and let the builder go which ever way they'd prefer? For my own build, I'm thinking about using an actual small bolt and nut to hold it down on to some supports, provided I could find some that would look right and that the part is strong enough to hold it without wanting to sheer the plastic. What do you all think?

SRBTAIL_zps658e8ac5.jpg

This is the actual part I'm talking about.

srb-explosive-bolts01_zpsaab697b7.jpg

Thanks,

Bill

Edited by niart17
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Hi Bill,

interesting considerations with the Hold down posts. :coolio: I would prefer your solution with the screws and nuts or make only pins instead of screws. :thumbsup:

There are such small screws and nuts? gruebel.gif

:wave:

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Hi Bill,

interesting considerations with the Hold down posts. :coolio:/> I would prefer your solution with the screws and nuts or make only pins instead of screws. :thumbsup:/>

There are such small screws and nuts? gruebel.gif

:wave:/>

Yes I think that would be a good way to do it. But then again, it really wouldn't take much more work to make all three configurations and let one order whichever version they want. Might just do that. As for small screws. I'm pretty sure they do like for watch and small machine work. Finding them might be a different story, but thet do make them.

Bill

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ok, as promised here are some pics of the first parts I got from Shapeways. Not too bad, except of course for the aforementioned mental error I made in the outside diameter design. They came well packed in a good size box with packing and in a small zip lock bag with no signs of rough shipping.

The new part next to the kit's stock part.

DSC_0089_zps73272e03.jpg

Stacked on top of each other you can just see the outside diameter difference problem.

DSC_0091_zps614f16de.jpg

The part on top of the bottom srb

DSC_0094_zps3606c8c4.jpg

and with the top SRB section on top of it. It becomes more apparent I made them slightly undersized. I'm going to correct the model but not sure if I'll order corrected parts or just work with what I have to save money

DSC_0095_zpsddad912d.jpg

And here is the part with just primer painted on it. This is Krylon primer straight from a can with no sanding at all on the part. You can see the texture, but it's not as bad as I thought they'd be.

DSC_0099_zps09d7457c.jpg

I'd say once this technology progresses and gets cheaper, it will be outstanding. but even as it stands now it's definately a viable option. As it turns out, for this particular part it's perfect since the insulation does actually have a texture, maybe even more pronounced than this. The only thing smooth on the ETAR is the band around the edge, and a little light sanding and polishing I think they will really look the part. I'll play with them some more and test out glue compatabilities and how it takes putty, cutting etc...and let ya'll know how it works out.

Stay tuned, SSME's are scheduled to come in Monday, I can't wait!

Thanks,

Bill

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One more pic tonight. Here I sanded off the rough primer and lightly sanding one area with 3000 grit sanding stick. Then painted it with Model Master Desert Sand (ingore the smudge from the support that was holding it)from a spray can follwed with one light brushing of future. Not quite the same sheen as the bare plastic but with another coat of future it would be just as smooth if not more so.

withpaint_zps373e3063.jpg

I'll keep reporting what my findings are.

Thanks,

BIll

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I have a question for you guys. IF this part were available to the public, would it be better to model the hold down bolts at the bottom and it be part of this structure OR leave a small hole that can be used to actually hold the stack down by the using small screws and nuts ORRR just leave it flat as is and let the builder go which ever way they'd prefer? For my own build, I'm thinking about using an actual small bolt and nut to hold it down on to some supports, provided I could find some that would look right and that the part is strong enough to hold it without wanting to sheer the plastic. What do you all think?

Well, all jokes about small nuts aside, I think I would prefer to have the actual bolts to hold something as large as the 1/72 size stack to a base. Hell, it works for the real thing, why not the model?

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Well, all jokes about small nuts aside, I think I would prefer to have the actual bolts to hold something as large as the 1/72 size stack to a base. Hell, it works for the real thing, why not the model?

My only concern about using an actual bolt and nut is that the plastic piece may not be strong enough to hold. I'll have to see how strong the different materials they offer are. But then again, the weight would be spread amongst 8 bolts so it may work. The good thing about just having a plastic modeled bolt that's just cosmetic is I can control how it looks and make it look more accurate.

Bill

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Bill,

The ETAR looks great! I'm curious what glue(s) will work and what's the best paint type to use.

I can't wait to see the SSME's on Monday.

Mike.

Thanks Mike, I only wish I would have thought about it more before printing and got the diameter right. But live and learn.

From what I understand, this particular material is acrylic based so I would imaging super glue or maybe the weld-on stuff for acrylic would work. The other material, the one the SSMEs are going to be is nylon based so I'll probably try super glue on those as well. So far I've used regular spray can (krylon) and spray Model Masters enamel on this and there doesn't seem to be any compatability issues.

Bill

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