Starting my 1/72 scale Shuttle/Booster kit

[niart17]

I've started working on some of the slow work and some preliminary decals. Here is a first shot of the decals. I know the shuttle name fonts aren't correct right now as I don't have Helvetica font here at home and I forgot to make text to outlines. But it will be correct on the print.

I also was able to find a great image of the "nose art" ET service door graphic so that should turn out pretty nice.

I'll try to post some of the model soon.

Thanks,

Bill

Edited June 27, 2011 by niart17

[MarkD]

The ET decals I saw of RSM had a grid pattern that fit over where the vents go for the nose and a couple tiny decals that go on the aft dome. Though in photos of the real tank, you can't see anything.

Awesome decals. Will your decal set include the STS-134/ 135 ET intertank access door art that was seen on 134 and a new patch to fly on 135? The STS-135 mission patch you have in the photo looks very exact to scale for a 1/72 scale kit. From photos I saw of STS-135, that is the logo that will be on the final ET to fly. 134 had a different logo, http://media-files.gather.com/images/d923/d543/d746/d224/d96/f3/full.jpg

Here is a link to what STS-135 will have http://www.nasa.gov/mission_pages/shuttle/flyout/flyout_shuttle_logo.html

[crowe-t]

The ET decals I saw of RSM had a grid pattern that fit over where the vents go for the nose and a couple tiny decals that go on the aft dome. Though in photos of the real tank, you can't see anything.

These pictures show the decal that goes on the ET aft dome. It says LH2 AFT ONLY on the Manhole cover.

[jockdeboer]

Are you selling the decals?

[niart17]

Are you selling the decals?

Unfortunately I have no means of printing them in any mass quantities and/or of any commercial quality. For my own build I am considering looking in to possibly having them ALPs printed by one of the guys that provides that service or looking into other options. I am still doing research and trying to find as much as I can about what can actually be seen on a stack. For instance I hadn't noticed the aft manhole cover markings until crowe-t posted that image. (Thanks again for that bit!) so I will try incorporate that into my build. IF I ever get to really get into building that 1/48th scratch shuttle I've been tinkering with I will definately need some accurate markings down to the really small stencil information. So even if these aren't usable or visable on the 1/72 scale shuttle, they may pay off in the long run.

Bill

[MarkD]

I see. I never noticed that before. In the photos I saw, you can't even see the marking.

Say how big in diameter should those three circles be at the aft dome? That is the only detail missing from my shuttle kits.

Will your model have detail beneath the tile decals? Scribbing the tiles on helps, and for the decals it gives the model a more realistic look.

Here is some reference http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/STS-133#Shuttle_Stack I noticed in the photos, the seam of the intertank to either the LO2 or LH2 tanks sticks out a bit. as seen http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f2/STS-133_repair_work_external_tank_closeup.jpg That little detail is missing on the model and who knows how to add it. On the model the entire tank is all even, compared to the actual photos, the intertank is slightly wider.

Some of the intertank stringers will have to be removed in the areas where you'll put the ET access door http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3c/STS-133_access_door_closed.jpg and LH2 GUCP http://www.nasaspaceflight.com/2011/02/sts-133-gucp-disassembled-pad-srbs-hyper-loading-tasks/

[niart17]

No I don't think I am going to scribe the tile pattern. I am planning on making some tile decals just like I did for my 1/144 build. I think even at 1/72 scale the space between the tiles is SOOOO SMALL that I don't think it would be very noticable. I think with a realistic tile image on the bottom that will give a good enough illusion of separate tiles.

I'm not sure the exact diameter of the man holes on the bottom of ET. Seems like I had a site somewhere that showed that information. If I find it again I'll post up what I find.

Here are a few pics of the little work I've done. I've opened a retangular area at the base of the SRB's where it is actually recessed slightly and each booster has 6 ports that are covered with plates. I'll add a backing to this and then add the plates

I've also sanded off the raised detail from the SRB nosecaps. The lines that are molded raised around the perimeter of them should actually be rivet lines and aren't as noticable as what the kit shows. The easiest way for me was to remove all of the raised lines and just add the vertical stringers back with stip plastic.

Bill

Edited June 27, 2011 by niart17

[crowe-t]

Bill,

I agree, even at 1/72 the space between the tiles is too small to see, given the number of tiles on an orbiter. Tile decals will do the job quite nicely.

I'm looking forward to seeing some more pictures of this build soon.

PS, I didn't see those pictures when I just posted this...Hmmm :lol:

Great catch on those recessed areas.

IMO your nose cones look much better then the way they come. I think on the early missions those bands are visible but on the newer missions the rivets are hardly noticeable at all in most pictures.

Edited June 27, 2011 by crowe-t

[niart17]

Another area on the SRB that I may address is the square panels at the top. On the kit, there are two raised panels on each SRB but from what I can tell on my references, there should only be one panel. I don't know if I want to attempt to remove the second panel or just leave it alone. I think it would be pretty hard to get the raised panel removed and add back what is supposed to be there. I'll give that some more thought.

And finally just a shot one of the SSME's from each the Monogram kit and the Revell kit. Sadly, in this case it appears to me the shape of the Revell's engines are closer to correct. The Monogram ones seem to be too rounded near the top. I'm not planning on buying any aftermarket parts but this may be one area I might break down and buy some. Before I do I will at least attempt to modify the kit ones.

more to come soon I hope.

Bill

[MarkD]

Niart, the ET and SRBS were pretty much designed to have it easy to build for the modeler. So you don't by mistake put the wrong booster part on the wrong place. IMO after assembly, you probably could fix those errors.

Here is a vid I stumbled upon when looking for reference.

Edited June 27, 2011 by MarkD

[crowe-t]

Another area on the SRB that I may address is the square panels at the top. On the kit, there are two raised panels on each SRB but from what I can tell on my references, there should only be one panel. I don't know if I want to attempt to remove the second panel or just leave it alone. I think it would be pretty hard to get the raised panel removed and add back what is supposed to be there. I'll give that some more thought.

And finally just a shot one of the SSME's from each the Monogram kit and the Revell kit. Sadly, in this case it appears to me the shape of the Revell's engines are closer to correct. The Monogram ones seem to be too rounded near the top. I'm not planning on buying any aftermarket parts but this may be one area I might break down and buy some. Before I do I will at least attempt to modify the kit ones.

more to come soon I hope.

Bill

Bill,

From what I understand, Monogram used one mold for the front and backs of both the SRB's and ET. You are correct, those raised access panels shouldn't be on the back of the SRB's.

Just a thought, maybe you can cut them out and place some sheet styrene on the inside and either fill the front with putty or sheet styrene of the same thickness. It's a bit of work but may be worth it.

Edited June 27, 2011 by crowe-t

[MarkD]

The Monogram engines more look like what the aftermarket parts have. Save for some extra feed lines to add. Now the OMS engines is another problem. They should look like this. http://www.collectspace.com/images/news-092110a/024.jpg Both the aftermarket and Monogram and even Revell kits don't look right.

Here is more reference of the real Discovery. http://www.collectspace.com/news/news-092110a.html

One area to add is the tiny IRF foam ramps http://www.nasa.gov/images/content/143737main_022805_02_ET-ice-frost-ramps.jpg next to the LO2 feed line. Anyone who can do that please tell us how that worked.

Edited June 28, 2011 by MarkD

[Brian 1]

Hi guys, at Fisher Models we are designing a correct set of SSME and OMS nozzles right now, these will accurately capture the look of the real configuration. We are trying to have them ready for debute at the Nats in Aug so hold tight!

[MarkD]

Awesome dude. Will these SME/ OMS engines be made available to other modelers?

[Brian 1]

Awesome dude. Will these SME/ OMS engines be made available to other modelers?

HUH?

[niart17]

HUH?

I'm not sure if the HUH? answer is sarcasm or if you're really not sure what he was asking, but I think he wants to know if you guys are making those engines for retail. I know it seems to be a little obvious to some that you meant your company is making them for sale, he may not have understood that part of your post. So the answer he is looking for is yes.

I may be interested in these as well, I'd love to see any progress on the masters you may have made but I understand you may want to keep it a little secretive. I look forward to seeing what ya'll come up with.

Bill

[Brian 1]

We won't be releasing any photos until their debut. Feel free to check our website for further updates: http://fishermodels.com/ or our dedicated forum on Large Scale Planes.

[niart17]

We won't be releasing any photos until their debut. Feel free to check our website for further updates: http://fishermodels.com/ or our dedicated forum on Large Scale Planes.

Well then, isn't that special. I poked around on you guy's site and it looks like you have some really nice stuff. However, and please keep in mind this is just a friendly suggestion, being that you are in a really narrow specialty market in a hobby that has some really really good companies come and go all the time, going that little extra distance to appear to be an overly friendly company to prospective customers goes a LONG way. Again, I don't know that your answer was really rude, you may have been really too busy to answer or might really not have understood why he asked the question. BUT it may turn off future business. I'm just sayin'

Again, if I misunderstood I apologize.

AAANNNNYYYWAY, back to the subject (ahem). I haven't done much more but I did notice three lift attachment points on the SRB nosecones that are right where the stringers run up so I've cut the notch for them. I don't know at what point they actually remove the lifting lugs, but I'd assume it wouldn't be long after the stack is assembled so I probably won't add them. I've also added a few more markings to my decal sheet. BTW, any suggestions on who to check with about maybe having them ALPS printed up? I'll probably do a post in general dicussion but thought maybe someone here would have an idea. I've never used alps decals so don't really know the ups and downs of them.

Pics to come soon I hope.

Bill

Edited June 30, 2011 by niart17

[crowe-t]

Bill,

You might try contacting Tom at Tangopapadecals.com about printing them or jt-graphics.com. Jeff at JT Graphics does Star Trek decals so you wouldn't have to worry about him selling your decals. I think Tom at Tango Papa is pretty cool about this stuff too. They both print on an ALPS.

ALPS printed decals are real nice but need a fixative so they won't scratch. I used Micro Scale Liquid Decal film instead of an acrylic spray so the setting solutions and solvents can still work properly. Also the liquid decal film is extremely thin. I had mentioned this about the liquid decal film in your 1/144 stack build thread, I think?!

Mike.

Edited June 30, 2011 by crowe-t

[Jay Chladek]

As somebody who has seen the references related to what Bill is working on, I can say he is doing a really good job on them. This project is in good hands IMHO.

[MarkD]

One detail on the SRBs I noticed is the SRB retrieval ship tow brackets. You see one on the aft end of the SRB's ET attach ring. There are two of these http://homepage.mac.com/georgegassaway/GRP/Scale/ShuttleData/SRB.html http://homepage.mac.com/georgegassaway/GRP/Scale/ShuttleData/ET_Photos/Shuttle_ET_Backside.jpg as the SRB link gives, tehre is a bracket on the forward skirt, but I can see nothing in the available photos.

[niart17]

As somebody who has seen the references related to what Bill is working on, I can say he is doing a really good job on them. This project is in good hands IMHO.

Thanks Jay! I hope I can live up to that. I'd be happy to come anywhere close to the level of your shuttle builds. For that matter, I'd be happy to finish it. Oh well, even if I don't finish them as often as I'd like I hope some of my progress along the way might help someone else in their builds with either what to do or not to do. Then I feel it was worth posting a bunch of non-completed build threads. Or not.

Bill

[niart17]

A small update. I've added a small shape to the top of the SRB's (I'm guessing an electrical enclosure) and I've drilled out the separation motors and added some styrene rod to represent them a little better. They will be sanded smoother and covers will be added but you get the jest.

I've also marked the area I've decided to sand off. It is the SRB's second raised panel that shouldn't be there. I think I can go back and fix the area once I get it smoothed down. I hope anyway.

Another couple of things I'm considering is maybe looking into getting some custom photoetching done for some of the detail work. If I can find a place that's inexpensive enough I may redo a lot of of the SRB details as well as some shuttle detail. I'd love to find a company that would want to make them for retail if I did the design work but I know that would be a big risk for a company so I'll probably have to go one offs if I want it done.

Another crazy idea I had was to possibly use some magnets to mount the shuttle on to the stack. IF I could engineer it right, you could take the shuttle off and possibly have magnets holding the gear doors on and pop in landing gear...ala Tamiya's P-51 kit. I know it sounds crazy and probably too ambitious but ya never know, it might happen. It would be a neat feature if I could pull it off. If not, oh well.

Anyway, thanks for looking.

Bill

Edited July 6, 2011 by niart17

[Scott Smith]

Anyone get to the attachment points on the shuttle yet? There are no locater holes in the bottom of the shuttle to line up with the fuel tank mounting points. And these directions are useless.

[niart17]

Hey Scott,

I'm not to that point yet, but what it appears like to me is there are two holes that are lightly covered over. If you look from inside the fuse you should see them and they are both on centerline. One is just behind the nose gear opening and one in-line with where the rear struts attach. On the cradle between the rear mounting struts there is a raised pin that fits into the rear hole and the bipod front brace fits into the front hole. You do have to open those holes up. I hope that makes sense, if not I'll try to post a pic for you to clear it up. Good luck and post some pics of your build, I'd love to see it.

Bill