Robertson Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Kudos also to David for re-habilitating the AMT Tigercat propellers into something useful. Reduce, Reuse, Recycle. David The errors in the Tigercat kit's prop are very minute, at the base of each blade, and easily fixed. Resin props with separate blades are almost garanteed to turn the model into a misaligned-looking approximation unless the hub and blade alignment are superbly tight. Even plastic separate blade props are usually very easy to pick out on contest tables, especially the three blade props... In addition to this, resin blades, especially very long ones, run the risk of bending over time, no matter how they are stored or displayed... Take my advice: If you want your Tigercat kit to look good over time, use the kit's props... No such problems on resin cowls of course: Superb work on these cowlings Otto, exactly what the kit needed. Robertson Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Otto Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Actually the best way to fix the F7F props is to cut the blades off and turn them 180*. I made myself a prop blade jig to install loose prop blades. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobrahistorian Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Otto, Great work on the cowlings. Any projected release date on them? I'm not gonna be starting on mine until the P-39, pair of P-47s and A-26s are off the workbench, but I'm already planning ahead for the PV-1. Jon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Robertson Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Actually the best way to fix the F7F props is to cut the blades off and turn them 180*. I made myself a prop blade jig to install loose prop blades. Yes, as you imply, the pitch of both the AMT's Tigercat's props turn to the correct side: But no, you are wrong that the same correct blade airfoil can be replicated by flipping them over: The kit's props are a pretty high quality rendering, fairly thin on top of that, with a correct airfoil shape at the base of each blade. Simply flipping them over will not yield a correct appearance because the kit blades have a correct "hollow" airfoil appearance on the back side, and a correct bulging appearance in front. You could in theory rework the airfoil, but the thickness is probably not there so it is likely not even possible... In addition, cutting off the blades is a major invitation to introduce a slew of inconsistencies in individual blade length, position, pitch angle and fore-and aft squareness. I never build individual blade props as they never seem to come out right for me, and everyone else as well, if just about every build I have seen in a contest is any guide... Even the securely slot pitch-matched Hasegawa Me-109s prop blades are typically all over the place on most builds... The use of a jig does in theory address this problem, but it would have to be very consistent and precise, and not as good or solid in the end as just a one-piece prop in the first place... Robertson Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Otto Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Yes, as you imply, the pitch of both the AMT's Tigercat's props turn to the correct side: But no, you are wrong that the same correct blade airfoil can be replicated by flipping them over: The kit's props are a pretty high quality rendering, fairly thin on top of that, with a correct airfoil shape at the base of each blade. Simply flipping them over will not yield a correct appearance because the kit blades have a correct "hollow" airfoil appearance on the back side, and a correct bulging appearance in front. You could in theory rework the airfoil, but the thickness is probably not there so it is likely not even possible... In addition, cutting off the blades is a major invitation to introduce a slew of inconsistencies in individual blade length, position, pitch angle and fore-and aft squareness. I never build individual blade props as they never seem to come out right for me, and everyone else as well, if just about every build I have seen in a contest is any guide... Even the securely slot pitch-matched Hasegawa Me-109s prop blades are typically all over the place on most builds... The use of a jig does in theory address this problem, but it would have to be very consistent and precise, and not as good or solid in the end as just a one-piece prop in the first place... Robertson The ones on my kit the foils are also flipped on them. It seams that out of the 3 or 4 F7F kits they had there is no consistency. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Otto Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Otto, Great work on the cowlings. Any projected release date on them? I'm not gonna be starting on mine until the P-39, pair of P-47s and A-26s are off the workbench, but I'm already planning ahead for the PV-1. Jon My guess is in 2-3 weeks. He should have the master Monday or tuesday of next week and he should have the molds finished by next weekend. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fulcrum1 Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Looking good Otto! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CharlieH Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 (edited) In case anyone has missed these here are some additional walk around pictures http://www.wildaviation.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=4199 I might add some additional, including Lodestar details over the weekend, if I can get my PC (win7) to talk to gallery Edited January 21, 2012 by CharlieH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Otto Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Hay Guys, I decided that I want to build the gun nose nightfighter out of this kit. Instead of just me doing the build that way, what do you think if i did a resin conversion nose, so anyone can build one? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobrahistorian Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Hay Guys, I decided that I want to build the gun nose nightfighter out of this kit. Instead of just me doing the build that way, what do you think if i did a resin conversion nose, so anyone can build one? I think you'd probably do well! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Otto Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 There are some really good pictures on this site. http://rnzaf.hobbyvista.com/ven1.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Falcon50EX Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Hey Otto, 2 suggestions: 1) i think the idea of a Night Fighter is a good one, IF you can find someone who can make some nice photo-etched antenna aerials. Those are really the make-or-break item for a Night Fighter, whether its a PV-1 or a P-38G. Also, you will need to clearly define, and locate the recesses for the guns. Keeping them all parallel, or angled to converge is critical. For an idea of what im talking about, look at the nose on the AMT A-20G. Oh- you will also need to incorporate extended, flame dampening exhaust stacks, too. 2) It may be too late to do this, but since you have access to a PV-2, would you consider going back and adding dzus fastener detail to the cowlings? it seems to be a standard on 48th scale models and it will lend more visual complexity (i.e. make them more interesting) to the finished model. Most other Obscureco cowlings if not all of them have this incorporated into their design. david Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Otto Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 (edited) Hey Otto, 2 suggestions: 1) i think the idea of a Night Fighter is a good one, IF you can find someone who can make some nice photo-etched antenna aerials. Those are really the make-or-break item for a Night Fighter, whether its a PV-1 or a P-38G. Also, you will need to clearly define, and locate the recesses for the guns. Keeping them all parallel, or angled to converge is critical. For an idea of what im talking about, look at the nose on the AMT A-20G. Oh- you will also need to incorporate extended, flame dampening exhaust stacks, too. 2) It may be too late to do this, but since you have access to a PV-2, would you consider going back and adding dzus fastener detail to the cowlings? it seems to be a standard on 48th scale models and it will lend more visual complexity (i.e. make them more interesting) to the finished model. Most other Obscureco cowlings if not all of them have this incorporated into their design. david I am not going to mess with photo etch. I will supply resin antennas. Here you go, all the "dzus" fasteners you can use. http://www.archertransfers.com/AR88002.html Edited January 21, 2012 by Otto Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fulcrum1 Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 I already have the Owl night fighter decals so whoever comes out with a nose conversion first gets my dinero. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Otto Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 I received an email from Obscureco last night. The cowlings will be in the molds this coming up week. I will keep you updated. I am now also working on the complete night fighter nose for it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
f4u4 nut Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Question everyone. Is this the Minicraft/Academy mold or new tooling? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hal Marshman Sr Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Question everyone. Is this the Minicraft/Academy mold or new tooling? Thois is new tool 1/48th. The minicraft/Academy kit is 1/27nd Hal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Otto Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 It is not even close to being an enlarged copy of the Academy kit. It is an entirely new design. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jennings Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 When the Minicraft 1/72 kit came out there was (pre-internet) all kinds of hullabaloo about how it was a direct rip-off of the Frog kit. It wasn't. It's a very different kit from the Frog kit. The Revell 1/48 is no more related to the Minicraft 1/72 kit than I am. The only thing they share in common is that both represent the Lockheed PV-1 Ventura. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brad-M Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Hey Otto, Any word on the cowls yet? TIA Brad Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tracy White Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 While we're at it; Great Models was carrying the Vector Prop set for $16.80; is this the high price you were speaking of earlier? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Otto Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Hey Otto, Any word on the cowls yet? TIA Brad I just sent Chris an email to find out. I should get an answer this evening. He has the F7F prop set for about $6 which are the same prop type just need to be cut down a little. I believe he might also do that. I don't care if I need to take a bit off the tip myself though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Otto Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 (edited) While we're at it; Great Models was carrying the Vector Prop set for $16.80; is this the high price you were speaking of earlier? Notice they DON'T have them, you have to request them. Compared to $6 from Obscureco, it is a lot. almost three times as much for only a couple extra parts which most people wont notice on the built kit anyway. The props and odd shape cowls are noticeable however. Edited February 8, 2012 by Otto Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brad-M Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Thanks Brad I just sent Chris an email to find out. I should get an answer this evening. He has the F7F prop set for about $6 which are the same prop type just need to be cut down a little. I believe he might also do that. I don't care if I need to take a bit off the tip myself though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hal Marshman Sr Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Mike West of Lone Star Models is making props, wheels with proper tread, open cowl gills, and a closed bombay insert. mike is well known for the quality of his work. The wheels can be had with or without wheel covers. The props are individual with a separate hub and include a jig for correct positioning. His prices are reasonable. Hal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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