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I'm having a hard time with Academy decals. It always shines too much and never sets into the panel lines no matter how much Micro Sol/Micro Set I use. Should I use something else or are there other tips out there? Please help!

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What do you mean by "Shines Too Much"? silvering?? try using Future as a setting solution, then once dry run a knife down the panel line to cut the decal (before applying the setting solution) then go over it with Micro sol, or Solviset (slightly diluted)

Curt

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The clear part of the decals are very shiny. For example a 'no step' decal is a square clear decal with the words on it. The clear bits shines more than the painted surface so you can see the outline of the decal clearly...

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what academy kit are u building? Decals from the older kits tend to silver easily (even after 2 coats of future :bandhead2: ). I guess you can try trimming down the clear decal edges before transferring them onto the model. Academy's new releases with Cartograf decals shouldn't have much of this problem imo :thumbsup:

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I'll be decalling an Academy 72nd P-40E here in the next day or so we'll see how they go. The decals have a copyright of 1999 so Idk if that makes them newer or not. I've also got a 48th F-15 Academy so if the P-40 gives me trouble I'll get aftermarket decals. You may want to for your other builds just cause.

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Academy decals can make you think you've forgotten how to put decals on, because some of them are junk. I try to get a really glossy surface to lay decals on then shoot another coat over the top to get the finish looking the same on the paint as it does the decal. If you've got an Academy kit that doesn't have Cartograph decals, you might try aftermarket.

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Yeah- those Academy decals can be JUNNK sometimes! They have a few with Cartograph decals, which are nice (my F-18 kit has these.)

Tip: USE HOT water to soak them in, makes them much softer to work with.

Otherwise, go with aftermarket.

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I'll be decalling an Academy 72nd P-40E here in the next day or so we'll see how they go. The decals have a copyright of 1999 so Idk if that makes them newer or not. I've also got a 48th F-15 Academy so if the P-40 gives me trouble I'll get aftermarket decals. You may want to for your other builds just cause.

The decals for the Academy P-40E aren't to bad, bit thick but do settle with patience and plenty of micro fluids. The U.S A.R.M.Y markings work well though but make sure you have a good gloss coat underneath. If youre' game score around the individual letters and peel away the clear once they've half cured.

Another tip. Have a iron close and heat a damp q-tip (cotton bud) then apply it to the decal. It won't wreck the decal but the direct heat will help it settle.

Edited by tempestwulf
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USE HOT water to soak them in, makes them much softer to work with.
make sure you have a good gloss coat underneath.

Sage advice!

Oddly, I have not had any problems with any of my Academy kit decals so far, considering how often people complain about them. True they are a bit thick, but certainly not as bad as the old Monogram super-glossy thick decals and certainly not as rigid and non-conforming as a set of Ventura decals I once tried!

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Do what Netz said, use Future as the setting solution. Put a drop of future where the decal goes, wet decal as usual (maybe even with the suggested hot water?), and place decal on Future drop, finish application as usual.

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Well I decaled the P-40 last night and it went pretty good. It was the first time I used a 50/50 water/future solution to moisten the decals. They were shiny at first but after they dried they look great. They seem to be accepting Micro Sol as well and showing the panel lines nicely.

As stated they were copyrighted 1999 so Idk if that makes them the newer cartograph ones or not but I thought they would say printed by cartograph on them if they were.

I'll be using the 50/50 solution from now on as well, worked great.

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The clear part of the decals are very shiny. For example a 'no step' decal is a square clear decal with the words on it. The clear bits shines more than the painted surface so you can see the outline of the decal clearly...

Well everyone seems to be diagnosing a "Silvering" problem, I hope you understand the difference between silvering and a gloss.

If it is a gloss or sheen problem the simple fix is a dull or gloss coat applied to the model, a common finishing step.

If it is "Silvering" in that you see a silver type affect under the decal then you can follow the suggestions above.

To correct a silvered decal already in place, you can poke the decal with a pin/knife and use a highly thinned burnt umber oil paint and flow it into the decal, the paint will fill the voids (trapped air) causing the silver affect. You may also try flowing Future Floor Wax under the decal but it is a thicker viscosity and probably will not flow as well as the oil paint.

Curt

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I'm having a hard time with Academy decals. It always shines too much and never sets into the panel lines no matter how much Micro Sol/Micro Set I use. Should I use something else or are there other tips out there? Please help!

All the replies have been assuming that you've properly gloss coated your kit before applying the decals. What gloss coat did you use before decaling?

Cheers,

John

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