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Removing parts from the sprue


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I've been having a problem with my parts being pinched off leaving little torn spots instead of smooth cuts. I've tried different methods but it seems almost unavoidable. Ive been thinking about replacing my old spruecutters with the new Xuron 2175ET. Is it really that much better or should I just plan on filling and sanding those kind of spots when they happen. I usually try to cut them farther back and then sand them flush, but I'm still not getting the right result all the time. I've tried sawing, but the back and forth motion seems to cause tearing as well. Who's got the new Xuron's and what do you think? Also, what methods do you use to prevent or minimize sprue marks?

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It seems to me that even with a nice sharp pair of sprue cutters you will sometimes still get the the problem you are having. One way to avoid it is to cut the piece off so that you leave a little bit of sprue on the piece. Then all you have to do is sand it down. Its easier to sand a little bit of sprue off than fill up a cut mark.

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I use an ancient pair of good old-fashioned nail clippers:

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Never had any problems.

If the sprue is too wide for the clippers I use a razor saw.

Don't cut too close to the part though as the previous post says.

A sharp hobbyknife and sanding sticks will take care of the surplus material.

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As mentioned, cut it long, you could just leave the little stub on till you glue it together then sand your seam down.

What I normally do is cut it long, then use a chisel blade and lay the part on a cutting pad (aka phone book) and flush cut the stub off.

With clear parts, I'll razor saw the stub off, or sand it, never clip near the part.

Also you can cut the part from the tree, leaving big lengths of sprue to get a better angle to your needed cuts.

Curt

the blade

101_4506.jpg

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I have a couple of Xuron sprue cutters, one I got 10-15 years ago and another rather recently. No clue what the model number of the newer one is, but it works like a champ, clean cut with no tearing/pinching. I also use a nipper I got from MicroMark. Some sprue gates are elongated, if you are cutting any of those cut along the long side not cross-wise.

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Thanks for the clip Gerry. My cutters are definitely not cutting as clean as that one does. I guess maybe its time for an upgade. I think cutting the sprue up into smaller trees would help. I also think the flexing of the part on the sprue is contributing to the tearing. If you were to cut the sprue up then you would always have a side of the sprue that would be open, instead of cutting parts out of the middle which causes the pinching. Again, thanks for the clip, I'm glad I can see just exactly what I will be getting.

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I use the Xuron 410T sprue cutters, which I've had for probably close to 6 or 7 years now, and I love them. Like others mentioned, I usually end up leaving a tiny bit of the sprue on the piece I'm nipping off and just either file it down or saw it off with an Xacto.

Edited by TomcatFanatic123
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I took a closer look at my sprue cutters and they aren't even sharpened. At a glance they appear to be, but at the bottom they just flatten out like pliers, what a joke. I can't believe I've never noticed that before. Ordered the new Xuron's today from my LHS.

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I use the Xuron 410T sprue cutters, which I've had for probably close to 6 or 7 years now, and I love them. Like others mentioned, I usually end up leaving a tiny bit of the sprue on the piece I'm nipping off and just either file it down or saw it off with an Xacto.

You should drop Xuron a note, they just might sharpen you're old reliable 410Ts. They do warranty their products.

Edited by Hawkeye's Hobbies
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You should drop Xuron a note, they just might sharpen you're old reliable 410Ts. The do warranty their products.

Wow! I may just have to do that! They are by far and away the best tool I've got on my workbench. Those darn things actually have some sentimental meaning to me because they've been with me for almost half my model building "career". Thanks for that advice, my friend :cheers:!

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