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Hi

I have started the Academy 1/48 CH-53E and purchased the Big Ed set to go with it. I have already started removing plastic for the grills, no easy feat given the thickness of the plastic ...

Ironically, I do not want to go overboard and am trying to keep this OOTB as much as possible.

Should I rivet this too? The reason I ask is that I am not the greatest riveter and I do not want to mess this up and have it looking stoopit.

As well, any advice on building this?

TIA

Tom

PS: Is there any interest in an WIP thread on this? Given the great builds I have seen, I am not sure if mine will stand-up to the others.

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Hi

I have started the Academy 1/48 CH-53E and purchased the Big Ed set to go with it. I have already started removing plastic for the grills, no easy feat given the thickness of the plastic ...

Ironically, I do not want to go overboard and am trying to keep this OOTB as much as possible.

Should I rivet this too? The reason I ask is that I am not the greatest riveter and I do not want to mess this up and have it looking stoopit.

As well, any advice on building this?

TIA

Tom

PS: Is there any interest in an WIP thread on this? Given the great builds I have seen, I am not sure if mine will stand-up to the others.

I say do it! Rivet and a WIP tread. I'm doing the riveting on mine. Suck or not...

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It's your kit do what you want, I've seen awesome builds without rivets.

That being said, adding rivets isn't too hard and really adds to the build. Check out Dan's build.

Do a WIP, the peanut gallery around here usually helps a bunch, speaking from personal experience. :woot.gif:

mason

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i'd say go for it. riveted my pavelow (first time trying it) found the academy kit probably one of the easiest to learn on, the -53 has easy panel lines to follow and pretty straight rivet lines.

Edited by zerosystem
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If you haven't given up on riveting here's what I did.

I am using Rivet-R mini, here with a Fiskar handle. I use the smallest wheel.

IMG_7216.jpg

I've found that the Dymo tape works out pretty well for spacing. If I am not mistaken the vertical spacers on the real A/C are @ 48" and at 48th scale works out to .25" which is the width of the roll of tape.

So I mark out the general position of the rows in pencil and cut two pieces of Dymo tape for alignment.

IMG_7214.jpg

Once I get one row down, I start leapfrogging the tape each subsequent row, double checking the alignment as I go.

IMG_7218.jpg

IMG_7218.jpg

IMG_7220.jpg

IMG_7222.jpg

The lengthwise rows require a little more work. On this piece I started on the center and worked to the outside.

IMG_7225.jpg

Once I got the center line down I used a compass to measure out each line.

IMG_7226.jpg

At the end of it all I go from here-

IMG_7232.jpg

to here-

IMG_7231.jpg

Hope this help.

mason

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