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P-51D Mustang wheel bays


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I've ordered a few of the new Tamiya 1/32 P-51D. I've heard that the wheel bays are filled with ejector pin marks. I was wondering if anyone knows if any aftermarket wheel bays will fit the kit.

I was thinking about using the 1/32 Aires P-51D Mustang Wheel Bay Set made for the Trumpeter kit. In the Tamiya kit. Possible?

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First, the wheel bays are not by *any* means "filled with ejector pin" marks. Not by a long shot.

Second, the kit has been out for a matter of a couple of weeks. The aftermarket hasn't even begun to gin up for it. Give it time.

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I've ordered a few of the new Tamiya 1/32 P-51D. I've heard that the wheel bays are filled with ejector pin marks. I was wondering if anyone knows if any aftermarket wheel bays will fit the kit.

I was thinking about using the 1/32 Aires P-51D Mustang Wheel Bay Set made for the Trumpeter kit. In the Tamiya kit. Possible?

As Jennings said, that bit of criticism is a tad exaggerated. The vast majority of these ejector pin marks are hidden under the ribs when they are glued in place. The remainder should be fairly easy to clean up.

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Now, this is just MHO, but…

I don't feel the need to purchase any aftermarket bits until I've seen the kit in question. One guys "loaded with ejector pins" may mean two or three on the whole thing that will totally invisible once the parts are assembled. I've seen this on more the one review (pre-view?).

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Now, this is just MHO, but…

I don't feel the need to purchase any aftermarket bits until I've seen the kit in question.

Whaaaat?? That's just crazy talk! ;)

How else are we to keep the aftermarket machine rolling?

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First, the wheel bays are not by *any* means "filled with ejector pin" marks. Not by a long shot.

Second, the kit has been out for a matter of a couple of weeks. The aftermarket hasn't even begun to gin up for it. Give it time.

I'm just thinking about the future. When subjects likes this roll out of the hangar I tend to start months after a new model hits the market. For some reason I cannot wait on this one... lol

As Jennings said, that bit of criticism is a tad exaggerated. The vast majority of these ejector pin marks are hidden under the ribs when they are glued in place. The remainder should be fairly easy to clean up.

I enjoy reading some of the review out today about modeling subjects. Some are spot on, other not so much so. I've just seen one small picture of the bay on this kit. I saw a few marks that were on the leading forward of the bay. I've never had much luck filling in those holes.

Now, this is just MHO, but…

I don't feel the need to purchase any aftermarket bits until I've seen the kit in question. One guys "loaded with ejector pins" may mean two or three on the whole thing that will totally invisible once the parts are assembled. I've seen this on more the one review (pre-view?).

Very true.

Whaaaat?? That's just crazy talk! ;)

How else are we to keep the aftermarket machine rolling?

Most of the time the aftermarket guys seem to stick to the "popular" genes and forget about the stuff that is truley interesting. But I think for this kit they will br allot of stuff like the Spitfire.

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Most of the time the aftermarket guys seem to stick to the "popular" genes and forget about the stuff that is truley interesting. But I think for this kit they will br allot of stuff like the Spitfire.

Barracuda Studios has alreday announced several resin sets for this kit with more to follow. I suspect Roy's offerings will be mostly cockpit enhancements and new wheels in the three tread patterns (diamond, block and oval). Don't know if he would tackle the wheel bay... that's more up Aires' alley.

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I got my kit last week and have been looking it over closely. In a way I disagree with what is being said - there are significant numbers of pin marks! But the good news is that the way the kit is designed most of ones that will be visible are fairly easy to fix, but make no mistake, there will be some to fix. Don't believe the anti-hype!

However not so easy - the ones on the wall that separates the bays are pretty frigging bad and will be impossible to fill without damaging the exquisite detail (the wall part attached to the inner gear door parts)! Also, OOB the only option you are given is to have the inner gear 100% down if the mains are retracted. This is certainly an acceptable but it makes the inner wall (and it's pinholes) very visible. If you build it to have the stand workable (switching the doors and removing the landing gear) you will have to build the inner doors as Tamiya has given us and you wont' be able to do any plumbing or wiring where there is tons of that in the well and the pinholes will be very noticeable. If you make the doors partially open (like some will want to do - also acceptable) you will have to cut apart the kits doors which might complicate the ability to be able to swap the gears in and out to display it with the gear retracted. Not a biggie- but something to note.

But the gear wells appear to look pretty nice oob. Not as nicely detailed as the aires set for the Dragon kit but overall it might not matter. I wouldn't worry too much about adding resin wells, I don't think this kit needs it. But it could use some wires for simulating the hydraulic lines very visible in the well. As far as the pin holes in the inner wall -I'll probably close my inner doors thus making that a non- issue!

Regards,

Frank

Edited by FrankC
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Not sure what the expectation here is regarding ejector pin marks. They are part of the injection molding process, like seam lines. You can try to minimize them, make them not so deep, or put them in places where they won't be seen, but you aren't going to get rid of them. Is there really a realistic expectation that Tamiya could have completely eliminated any ejector pin mark in the wheel bay, or in other places of the kit? Are there any injection molded kits with this many parts and level of detail that is free of ejector pin marks?

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Okay, so it's *filled* with ejector pin markings. Everybody who doesn't believe that two months from now at least one, if not more complete resin wheel wells, replete with plumbing and *without* any ejector pin marks visible will be on the market, stand on your head and whistle the theme from Hogan's Heroes.

I didn't think so...

PS: BTW, as Dave pointed out, *all* injection molded kits have ejector pin marks. Getting rid of them isn't magic. It's one of the most basic skills you need to learn in model building. But today's expectation seems to be that they either magically won't be there, or that someone will remove them for you I guess...

Edited by Jennings
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Not sure what the expectation here is regarding ejector pin marks. They are part of the injection molding process, like seam lines. You can try to minimize them, make them not so deep, or put them in places where they won't be seen, but you aren't going to get rid of them. Is there really a realistic expectation that Tamiya could have completely eliminated any ejector pin mark in the wheel bay, or in other places of the kit? Are there any injection molded kits with this many parts and level of detail that is free of ejector pin marks?

I don't think that's the issue - the issue is the poster is asking about how bad the ejector holes in the kit are and is pondering using the AM set for the tumpter kit. He was told by a few guys there aren't any and the claims are exaggerated - this is false. There are a lot of them and it's going to require some simple filling on the main well parts (roof, spar, and ribs) Probably 30 to 40 on those parts alone. Mind you not - difficult to fill pin marks but yea, you will be doing some work OTB.

The ones you can't fill easily are on the walls that separate the wells (that the inner doors attach to). This part has several that are going to be hard if not impossible to fill without damaging some really nice detail.

I don't think anyone expressed or feels Tamiya screwed up. I do think that a few of us builders were concerned based on past experience with Tamiya kits - the zero, and F-117 have horrendous pin marks in the wells and bays that are very difficult to fill. These concerns panned out - the P-51 bays has some of those pesky pin marks that were in the zero and F-117. But only those two part (that I can tell - maybe there are more -but I don't think so).

This isn't a fatal flaw and no one is saying the kit is bad, or tamiya screwed up. Anyone who has the kit can look and see them, I'm not exaggerating. They are there and they will need to be fixed if you are into that kind of thing (I am).

Edited by FrankC
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Barracuda Studios has alreday announced several resin sets for this kit with more to follow. I suspect Roy's offerings will be mostly cockpit enhancements and new wheels in the three tread patterns (diamond, block and oval). Don't know if he would tackle the wheel bay... that's more up Aires' alley.

I used his updates for the Spitfire. Wonderful little gems of art.

I don't think that's the issue - the issue is the poster is asking about how bad the ejector holes in the kit are and is pondering using the AM set for the tumpter kit. He was told by a few guys there aren't any and the claims are exaggerated - this is false. There are a lot of them and it's going to require some simple filling on the main well parts (roof, spar, and ribs) Probably 30 to 40 on those parts alone. Mind you not - difficult to fill pin marks but yea, you will be doing some work OTB.

The ones you can't fill easily are on the walls that separate the wells (that the inner doors attach to). This part has several that are going to be hard if not impossible to fill without damaging some really nice detail.

I don't think anyone expressed or feels Tamiya screwed up. I do think that a few of us builders were concerned based on past experience with Tamiya kits - the zero, and F-117 have horrendous pin marks in the wells and bays that are very difficult to fill. These concerns panned out - the P-51 bays has some of those pesky pin marks that were in the zero and F-117. But only those two part (that I can tell - maybe there are more -but I don't think so).

This isn't a fatal flaw and no one is saying the kit is bad, or tamiya screwed up. Anyone who has the kit can look and see them, I'm not exaggerating. They are there and they will need to be fixed if you are into that kind of thing (I am).

I couldn't have said it any better. I've yet to get my kits yet. There stuck in customs in New York? :sunrevolves: All the way from Hong Kong to NY and hopefully to California sometime in the next century. I feel like :deadhorse1: the USPS.

I've somewhat stopped building aircraft or pretty much Tamiya models due to the time I have to spend filling and not being able to open the "bays". I have that F-117 and still have not started it. (eBay anyone?) I wanted to have the bay open but it's just filled with marks. I may sound a bit "lazy" but I feel for the price of these kits today. They should get this issue over with.

I've been building alot of Dragon armor and it seems they do not have this issue. Or if they do they mark is totally hidden or can be sanded down in a flash.

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I used his updates for the Spitfire. Wonderful little gems of art.

I couldn't have said it any better. I've yet to get my kits yet. There stuck in customs in New York? :sunrevolves: All the way from Hong Kong to NY and hopefully to California sometime in the next century. I feel like :deadhorse1: the USPS.

I've somewhat stopped building aircraft or pretty much Tamiya models due to the time I have to spend filling and not being able to open the "bays". I have that F-117 and still have not started it. (eBay anyone?) I wanted to have the bay open but it's just filled with marks. I may sound a bit "lazy" but I feel for the price of these kits today. They should get this issue over with.

I've been building alot of Dragon armor and it seems they do not have this issue. Or if they do they mark is totally hidden or can be sanded down in a flash.

I have the Resin wheel set for the Trumpter kit - you could possibly fit it if you really wanted - but you will have to split the wells (right down the center - which isn't easy - I did this so they would fit into my dragon kit.. used one of the razor blade saws that John Vojotech sells).

I don't feel like cutting up and dry fitting my tamiya kit to see if it's an easy fit -but just looking at the parts and doing some fitting on the main wing (through the plastic) it looks like it would work. However attaching the gear will be more difficult and will require some surgery to get it to work with the resin part.

I'm not actually afraid of the pin holes on this one. I think they will be easy to deal with except for that wall that the inner doors hook to. I'll either scratchbuild that or close the inner doors.

I don't think resin is really "required" for this one - but that is just an opinion. If you are thinking resin is your first choice, I would wait for a set that's fitted to this kit. I do think the Aires set for the Trumpter kit will work - but you will have to do a lot of work to get it in there - so what's the point? As to resin CMK would be my first hope because they make good sets that aren't ridiculously expensive.

Anyway - good luck on the new stang - and don't fear the pin holes on this one - for the most part they will be easy to deal with.

Frank

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I have the Resin wheel set for the Trumpter kit - you could possibly fit it if you really wanted - but you will have to split the wells (right down the center - which isn't easy - I did this so they would fit into my dragon kit.. used one of the razor blade saws that John Vojotech sells).

I don't feel like cutting up and dry fitting my tamiya kit to see if it's an easy fit -but just looking at the parts and doing some fitting on the main wing (through the plastic) it looks like it would work. However attaching the gear will be more difficult and will require some surgery to get it to work with the resin part.

I'm not actually afraid of the pin holes on this one. I think they will be easy to deal with except for that wall that the inner doors hook to. I'll either scratchbuild that or close the inner doors.

I don't think resin is really "required" for this one - but that is just an opinion. If you are thinking resin is your first choice, I would wait for a set that's fitted to this kit. I do think the Aires set for the Trumpter kit will work - but you will have to do a lot of work to get it in there - so what's the point? As to resin CMK would be my first hope because they make good sets that aren't ridiculously expensive.

Anyway - good luck on the new stang - and don't fear the pin holes on this one - for the most part they will be easy to deal with.

Frank

Thanks Frank, I just got my kits yesterday. What a kit. I'm just going to build it OOB with a few wire and whatnot.

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