eharrold44 Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 Hey all- I'm still kind of a noob. I've been practicing painting canopy frames, using Tamiya tape for the masks. The results look okay, I guess, but not as sharply defined as I would like. I'm still seeing small paint bleeds along the edges. I've been taking small strips of tape, placing them on the edges of the windows, and then filling in the rest of the clear parts with other bits of tape. My question: will the tape method become more effective with practice (or a different approach), or is it worth it to just invest in some pre-cut vinyl masks? I try to be as frugal as possible, so I'd prefer to stick with tape, but spending a couple of extra bucks for better results and less hassle is looking more and more attractive. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 Depending on the a/c the pre-cuts are the way to go eg; Bf-110, but on most modern stuff I'll tape them eg;F-15. One thing you can do is pay close attention to your edges, but once taped, you can make your 1st coat of paint be a clear, that will seal the tape and any bleed would be clear. Have you tried Para-Film ? I use it extensively, and it works well for me, you start with a 100% seal, then cut out the frames. Para-Film tips,you 1st need to stretch it in both directions (length/Width) then apply 2 layers, and cut with a rounded blade. Curt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
eharrold44 Posted August 13, 2011 Author Share Posted August 13, 2011 Depending on the a/c the pre-cuts are the way to go eg; Bf-110, but on most modern stuff I'll tape them eg;F-15. One thing you can do is pay close attention to your edges, but once taped, you can make your 1st coat of paint be a clear, that will seal the tape and any bleed would be clear. Have you tried Para-Film ? I use it extensively, and it works well for me, you start with a 100% seal, then cut out the frames. Para-Film tips,you 1st need to stretch it in both directions (length/Width) then apply 2 layers, and cut with a rounded blade. Curt I hadn't heard of Para-Film before. I looked up a couple of how-to articles, and I think it might be exactly what I need. Thanks for the tip. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
eharrold44 Posted August 14, 2011 Author Share Posted August 14, 2011 I just ordered a healthy amount of Para-film from an eBay seller I frequent. Only about $10 including S&H for 2 10' rolls, not bad at all. Should last quite a while. I also found a good how-to article with plenty of pictures on Hyperscale. Using Parafilm-M by David W. Aungst Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Neo Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 (edited) Good article but you didnt have to go that far there a nice on on ARC main page Tool's and tips section!! Edited August 14, 2011 by Neo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 The ARC article I feel is a bit better, as he mentions applying 2 layers of film, but also both omit stretching the material in both directions and the use of a curved blade, the curved blade cuts much easier as it tends not to grab and skip on the surface, as you are cutting on a surface that reacts like rubber. Curt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CrowTRobot Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 I've been taking small strips of tape, placing them on the edges of the windows, and then filling in the rest of the clear parts with other bits of tape. I do exactly the same thing, but I don't have any problems with paint bleeding under the edges. Here are somethings to check: 1) Make sure the clear parts are cleaned well before you mask. This will help the tape adhere properly 2) To ensure a good seal run a smooth, rounded burnishing tool along the edges of the tape before your first paint session. The handle-end of a paintbrush works nicely. 3) Be careful spraying along the tape edges. Make sure your air pressure is not too high, and don't ever spray directly into the edge. This could force paint under the tape. Spray away from the edge at an angle. If you follow these steps then you shouldn't have any problems. I only use precut masks for subjects that have lots of framing that would be too tedious to mask any other way (e.g. F-84G, TBF, SB2C, etc.). In these cases it's money well spent. I'd also suggest getting a small punch and die set to help mask the rounded corners that you often find on windscreens & canopies. Select a punch with the correct diameter, punch out a small disc of tape, and place it into the rounded corner. I use a Micro-Mark punch for this, and it was worth every penny for the masking alone- not to mention all the other things you can do with it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
balls47 Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 Parafilm M is great stuff. Look at medical supply sites. I bought a lifetime and a half supply (2" x 250') for $22 and some change. This included S & H. (I'm sorry to say that I can't remember where I got it.) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sebastian Haff Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 I use adhesive masks unless there is not one available for the kit I'm building. It feels like cheating, but it just saves so much time. When I do mask, I always use 3m/Scotch Plastic Tape. This stuff is incredible. Very flexible and stretches well. It comes is 1/2",1/4" and 1/8". It works well as a scribing guide too. Also, a good burnishing tool is a must. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
smithery Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 I prefer to work with pre-cut vinyl, but now that EZ Masks is gone, I have no other option than to go with tape. I was never a fan of the older style Eduard masks, but used them as a template for making tape masks. Now that they have switched to kabuki tape, they're much better. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
eharrold44 Posted August 30, 2011 Author Share Posted August 30, 2011 I love Para-film. It's absolutely the best material for masking clear parts I've ever used. Thank you so much for recommending it. Netz, I agree the round blade is a must. I took your advice and bought some #10 X-acto blades, and they worked perfectly. A straight edge hobby knife would probably end up pulling on the Para-film, instead of cutting it cleanly. The rounded blades went through it very smoothly. I used it to mask an F-14 canopy. The process of applying and trimming it was fairly quick and painless. I can see how it would be tedious to do the same thing to a Buffalo canopy, or anything with a complicated frame, but it's a viable option if (like me) you'd rather spend the price of pre-cut masks on other things. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAIN Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 Where can you buy parafilm in canada? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
eharrold44 Posted August 30, 2011 Author Share Posted August 30, 2011 Found this through a quick Google search. Para-film @ School Specialty Canada You may be able to find it cheaper by shopping around. That's just one of the first places that popped up. It's probably available from just about any place that sells lab supplies. Hobby stores sometimes have it, but in smaller rolls. The large 250' rolls will last you a very, very, very long time, with proper storage. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChippyWho Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 Just found an eBay guy selling Parafilm M by the frickin' METRE!! -"Never mind the quality, feel the width..."! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
smithery Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 Where can you buy parafilm in canada? Depends on where you are I guess. I can buy it at the local shop. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Litvyak Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 I'd have a question apropos to the topic so I won't start a new thread: as an impulse buy I got a bottle of this "Vallejo Mascara Liquida Enmascarador". I've never used a liquid masking agent before. Are there any special tricks to making it work well? I was thinking it'd be easier to mask CP-140 or Mi-17 glass with this than by cutting tape... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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