Diego Quijano Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 (edited) Fw 190 A5 flown by Josef "Pips" Priller. Hasegawa 1/72. The riveting is made with Rosie. Let´s fly! More pics: Scaleworks Edited September 16, 2011 by Diego Quijano Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pep Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Beautiful as always diegO! You are a true master! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
arnobiz Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Truly beautiful model and pictures! How did you make the propeller "spin" on the pictures? Arnaud Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Luno13 Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 This is amazing work, nothing to critique! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jester292 Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 What Gruppe markings are those? Priller was with JG26, although he had a short stint with another Gruppe, I think it was JG53. Looks good. Aaron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Kiss Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Hi Diego, you built and painted an awesome Würger. Congratulation! Only 1 remark here. According to Osprey Fw-190 Aces book, the Werk Nummer of Priller's A-5 bird was 7298 and not 7289. I guess it's a simple mistake by manufacturer of decal sheet. (John Weal: Fw 190 Aces of the Western Front, Osprey Publishing) What Gruppe markings are those? Priller was with JG26, although he had a short stint with another Gruppe, I think it was JG53. Looks good. that's not a gruppe marking but Priller's personal emblem, an ace of hearts card with 'Jutta' text. (John Weal: Fw190 Defence of the Reich Aces, Osprey Publishing) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Diego Quijano Posted September 18, 2011 Author Share Posted September 18, 2011 Thanks for your words people. :) Truly beautiful model and pictures! How did you make the propeller "spin" on the pictures? Arnaud Hi Arnaud, No secret about that, the propeller is actually spinning, I blew air on the propeller with the airbrush while I took the pictures. :D Hi Diego,you built and painted an awesome Würger. Congratulation! Only 1 remark here. According to Osprey Fw-190 Aces book, the Werk Nummer of Priller's A-5 bird was 7298 and not 7289. I guess it's a simple mistake by manufacturer of decal sheet. Thanks for the intel, Richard. Yes, I used the Hasegawa decals and didn´t pay attention to the number. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HOLMES Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 Diego AMAZING work Sir. ...and the photos , when I looked at them, I thought I was looking at the real aircraft...AWESOME shots too. SHE IS A BEAUTY ...the weathering & the paint job is pure FLAWLESS and SO NEAT... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChernayaAkula Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 Wow! That's just.... wow! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChernayaAkula Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 (edited) Wow! That's just.... wow! EDIT: Huh? How did that happen? Ah, whatever, the build is so good, a second comment can't be wrong! Edited September 19, 2011 by ChernayaAkula Quote Link to post Share on other sites
terrysumner Posted September 25, 2011 Share Posted September 25, 2011 Your weathering...especially on the underside is superb! Can you explain your procedure and what products you used to do such a wonderful job please? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SmashedGlass Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 How did address the rudder, tail planes, and ailerons Diego? My Hasegawa 190's are lacking the proper 'ribbing' detail unlike yours, unless they updated the moulds? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Diego Quijano Posted September 26, 2011 Author Share Posted September 26, 2011 (edited) Thanks again :) Your weathering...especially on the underside is superb! Can you explain your procedure and what products you used to do such a wonderful job please? Hi Terry, Weathering with oil paints: With the surface protected with Klear, Future or other acrylic gloss varnish you can apply and manipulate oil colors with absolutely no danger. To get the greasy and stained look I decided to apply oil colours and smudge them without any solvent, just handbrushing with a shorthaired small brush. The method is quite simple, first I put small spots of dense black oil in the zones I want to stain and then I blended them brushing softly. If you want a spotty look you can apply many small spots and then blend them. If you want a bigger dark area for a whole panel or a filter effect you put the oil along the panel line and then blend it in the desired direction. If you brush too much you can remove much of the the oil paint and in any case if you don´t like the effect you can clean it with a brush and enamel solvent. You also can mix black oil with other colours like white, brown and ochre to get some tints over the camo but the main staining process is made with black oil. To enhance the panel lines I applied diluted black oil on the upper surfaces and dark brown on the underside. The varnished surface makes the oil dry slowly so you need to let the plane dry for a day before handling it again and always use latex gloves. The oil stains have a matt finish that gives and interesting contrast with the glossy surface. To soften this contrast a little but not entirely eliminate it I softly airbrushed with a mix of satin-matt laquer. How did address the rudder, tail planes, and ailerons Diego? My Hasegawa 190's are lacking the proper 'ribbing' detail unlike yours, unless they updated the moulds? The control surfaces ribbing is imitated with Tamiya Smoke or other grey ink. I masked with tape the ribs and airbrushed with Tamiya Smoke to shade the bass-relief zones, this way you get a nice relief effect. Is easy though a little annoying to mask all the ribs, but I think it worth the effort. Edited September 26, 2011 by Diego Quijano Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SmashedGlass Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 Thanks again :) The control surfaces ribbing is imitated with Tamiya Smoke or other grey ink. I masked with tape the ribs and airbrushed with Tamiya Smoke to shade the bass-relief zones, this way you get a nice relief effect. Is easy though a little annoying to mask all the ribs, but I think it worth the effort. Ah, I see now, thanks for the tip. I was planning on masking them and building them up with thin layers of primer or Mr. Surfacer, but your technique sounds much easier. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pirata Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 That's the best in-flight model I've ever seen and probably the best Focke Wulf I've ever seen. Great job! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Mikester Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 Wow, impressive build and even more impressive photgraphy, nicely done! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.