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Blohm & Voss 194, Revell 1/72

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  • 2 months later...

It's been a while since I updated this post. No, it wasn't adding more pixels that took all that time but moving and modeling don't go well together. On the bright side, nothing was lost or broken during the move. Oh yeah, and I got my very own modeling room now!

So it was with delight that I unpacked the boxes last week, after almost 3 months away from the hobby, and christened my new workbench by putting the finishing touches to my B&V's paint job: some more pixels here and there, correcting runs and smears (by adding...yet more pixels of course) and voila, painting is a done!

It should be downhill from here.

Some pics of how the model looks at this stage. I know, it looks pretty much the same as on the last pics but to me, knowing I'm done with the painting make all the difference!



More to come! ;)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Put the decals: check!


I used a Gunze gloss varnish before decaling, which gave me some troubles (first time I used a can), but went on nevertheless.

Micro Set/Sol worked well with the Revell decals.




The sheet contains lots of stencils, which lengthens the decalling session but it's worth it.


I removed carrier film as much as possible by cutting close to the design, which in the case of the simplified balkenkreuz left me with 4 chevrons that now needed proper alignment. To resolve this I used 2 strips of masking tape cut to the right size as reference.



Placing the dotted "no step" line was kind of a headache until I remembered the expression "cut along the dotted line." That's not exactly what I did but cutting each decal into smaller parts of only straight lines made the job much easier.


All decals are now in place...except this one:


It's some sort of danger notice but the Revell instructions left this one out so I don't know where it goes. The big word in the middle that can be read is "Lebensgefahr" which means "death hazard." Above that is a word that ends with "antrieb" indicating a power source, perhaps electrical. All the rest is illegible.

If anybody out there has any idea what it could be referring to so I can put it where it belongs...

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Bright and shiny new decals...uh uh...that won't do. Got to do something about that!


OK, that's better!


I used 2 different techniques to weather the decals: one is good ol' sandpaper and the other one consists of softening the decal with Mirco Sol and then taking the point of a hobby knife to it. The latter makes it possible to weather the center of the decal whereas sandpaper is more effective on the edges.


Notice that all decals don't react the same, even when they come from the same sheet. E.g. those made of two color layers are much tougher than, let's say, black, which has a tendency to come off in large pieces.


That's a first step in weathering the decals. There'll be more.


Thanks for watching.

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The wash is done. I used Classico oil paint 'Mars Black'. Here are the pics:








By the way, I solved the mystery of the warning notice decal.


I managed to decipher the first word, which is actually two words: "Vorsicht Pressluftantrieb" which means: Caution Compressed Air Power. I figure it's the starting system for the jet engine, a sort of precursor of the APU.

More soon. ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Next on the list was a dot filter.


I used white, black, turquoise, burnt umber and yellow ochre and mixed the dots around with a flat brush until I got the desired effect.


It breaks up the monotone and adds depth.


One can't see it too well on the pics, which shows that the effect is subtle enough. ;) Truth is, it's much more visible in real.



After a coat of matt clear Gunze I applied Mig pigments and pastel powder.



Exhaust fumes traces were done with Tamiya Smoke followed by black pastel powder.



I'd like to thank chukw for helping me with the dot filter, which I'd never done before. ;)

Next comes paint chipping and then final assembly. :)

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Tanis73, Moritz, thank you both for your kind words! :)

Yesterday I spent some time touching up the windscreen and canopy that came with some paint chipping after unmasking. I used Vallejo blue-gray (#907) that closely matches Gunze RLM 76 (which cannot be applied with a brush).



After the bad kind of paint chipping, the kind we want:


I used Humbrol flat aluminum applied with a sponge and, in some areas, with a brush.


Having finished all work on the engine subassembly, I glued it to the fuse.


I then did the chipping on the wings, inside the red dotted lines where riggers and fitters do their thing and scratch the paint with their boots, which they usually forget to clean so some Mig Dry Mud pigments in the same areas were in order after chipping.

On the bottom just a few dabs of alu paint on the bomb bay doors and that's it. Let's not overdo it with dots of alu paint that shine a mile away.


More soon. ;)

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After chipping comes scratching!


I used color pencils and treated those areas most liable to scratches from screw-drivers and wrenches, stones blown by the prop wash, etc. The engine cowling was a main target:


I used black, gray and dark brown, depending on the painted surface: brown works better on the yellow cowling while grays and black are better for the blue/gray RLM 76.


I rather like the result. I find it more realistic than paint chipping, which tends to shine too much no matter what you do.

That was a small update. More to come. ;)

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thank you Jeff and Tanis73! :)

So, the canopy is on and this signifies the end of this build. Finally!

I post some pics taken in a hurry this morning. I'll post better ones as soon as I can.

Enjoy and thanks for watching!


That's the bar for the canopy opening mechanism.












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