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How do you remove the mold line from a clear canopy?


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Youll need either some micromesh sand paper (up to 8000 grit), or use some 800 grit sandpaper to 1200 grit, and use some Novus scratch remover and plastic polish. I recommend having both in your stash. Excellent stuff. Other than that, youll be trying to polish that mold line forever. Some say future floor polish works, but I doubt it will work so well as to make it all but vanish.

This is what using all 3 would look like...

DSCI0412.jpg

DSCI0411.jpg

Edited by utley
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A manicure stick works well. It has all three grades of polishing material that you will need on one stick. Start with the coarsest material on the stick and then gradually work your way down to the smoothest material. By the time you finish sanding you will have a faint haze where the seam used to be. Dip the canopy in Future and the seam and remaining haze will be obliterated. I have used this technique dozens of times on Hasegawa Hornet and Tomcat canopies, which have the worst seams out there, and the results have been flawless. The manicure sticks are available at beauty shops or pharmacies.

Regards, Ian

:tumble:

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If you get the Micro Mesh sanding kit, you won't need the Polish.

I'd recommend either this:

http://www.micromark.com/Micro-Mesh-Finishing-Kit,7601.html

or this:

http://www.micromark.com/Soft-Touch-Pad-Set-Set-of-6,7787.html

Personally, for canopies, I'd go for the pad set. I've got both sets and the pads work best (for me) on canopies, and it has the added advantage of being less expensive.

Edited by DonSS3
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My method is to use a new 10 blade to gently scrape off the seam, then very fine wet & dry, followed by a canopy polish & a dip in Future/Kleer.

I recommend how Graham suggested to do it, scraping off the seam is far easier than sanding it off, if you sand it off you are introducing more scratches that you will then have to remove,scrapping it off you have better control and only remove the raised seam leaving a small area that has been damaged by this process say about 1/16 inch wide, and it is a smooth blemish, all that is needed is some very fine micro-mesh for finish polishing.

I just did one for a new Club member Sunday, Academy Spit XVe with the bubble canopy,I scraped it, used 4000 and 8000 and then finished with a paper towel, it was clear, scratch free and shiny, I then dipped it in Future.

I prefer the Micro-Mesh sheets as you can polish the inside of your canopy, which will take out any waviness to the canopy, and results in less distortion if looking through the canopy.

Curt

Edited by Netz
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