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Trumpeter J-11B Flanker


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Ken, I would definitively recommend you the Su-33 colour set by Modelkasten.

The lacquer paint itself is OEM produced by the famous Japanese colour brand GAIA.

The darkness was adjusted to the 1/72 scale and it just looks spot on.

http://www.modelkasten.com/modelkasten/mc/mc-3.html

I did not find it from HLJ but maybe Hobby Search do carry them.

They are limited produced so just hurry up while you can.

HTH,

Yufei

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<...>

As for issue 1 & 2, I'm considering Fairy Hobby to make a survival again maybe? :woot.gif:

<...>

Yeah! :yahoo: That would be great! Could use a couple...

Oh, and, that 1/72 Fulcrum canopy..... :coolio::whistle::pray: Could use a dozen!

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Ken, I would definitively recommend you the Su-33 colour set by Modelkasten.

The lacquer paint itself is OEM produced by the famous Japanese colour brand GAIA.

The darkness was adjusted to the 1/72 scale and it just looks spot on.

http://www.modelkasten.com/modelkasten/mc/mc-3.html

I did not find it from HLJ but maybe Hobby Search do carry them.

They are limited produced so just hurry up while you can.

HTH,

Yufei

Can they be thinned down by original thinner or is good with ordinary thinner?? :woot.gif:

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Thank you for the interesting top view shots Ken. :thumbsup: From top the too short LERX extension doesn't look to be much problem. Interesting to see that both Hasegawa Su-27 and Trumpeter J-11 lack the distinctive "curve" of the LERX. They are almost straight as an arrow.

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Hu ... I can see it laaaaarge and claer ! :rolleyes:

Here it is !

http://forum.keypublishing.co.uk/showpost.php?p=1830546&postcount=151

Cheers, Deino

Thanks - I got that one from your post on AFM, I thought the China Def link was a bigger, higher-res pic.??

Great reference for a J-15 though - I'm beginning to like Chinese Flankers - only two basic camo colours for the J-11 - and only one for the J-15 :banana:

After all the masking needed on Russian Flankers, it makes painting so much easier :thumbsup:

Ken

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Thanks - I got that one from your post on AFM, I thought the China Def link was a bigger, higher-res pic.??

Great reference for a J-15 though - I'm beginning to like Chinese Flankers - only two basic camo colours for the J-11 - and only one for the J-15 :banana:

After all the masking needed on Russian Flankers, it makes painting so much easier :thumbsup:

Ken

Yes, the original photo is about 1 Mb large ... if You like, then PM me Your e-mail address and I will send You the large one.

CHeers, Deino

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  • 1 month later...

Dear Ken,

Thank you for this dedicated review in progress.

Is it just me (my misinterpretation or deception of the photo) or is there a slight inward bend where there shouldn't be one?

j11bnosebendunderside.jpg

Anyway... I am much more optimistic about the upcoming 1/48 kit now.

kind regards

Martin

Martin,

Yes, unfortunately......

J-11b%20049.jpg

... but it shouldn't take much to fix it......

J-11b%20061.jpg

Ken

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  • 5 months later...

Nice looking work Ken, how long did it take to carve, sand, polish out the mold seam in your canopy?

My 'quickie' build as a russian bird w ICM weapons and pylons has stalled at the canopy seam removal stage.. sigh.. back to the bench

Mike

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Nice looking work Ken, how long did it take to carve, sand, polish out the mold seam in your canopy?

My 'quickie' build as a russian bird w ICM weapons and pylons has stalled at the canopy seam removal stage.. sigh.. back to the bench

Mike

Thanks Mike...

It didn't take too long - but it isn't perfectly clear (although I dipped it in Kleer)

I have had to do the same thing with my Su-30MKK & Su-30K builds - carefully shave off the seam, sand, polish and dip in Kleer.

Although the tandem two-seat canopy does not appear to have the mis-aligned 'step' that the single-seater has.

Ken

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Nice looking work Ken, how long did it take to carve, sand, polish out the mold seam in your canopy?

My 'quickie' build as a russian bird w ICM weapons and pylons has stalled at the canopy seam removal stage.. sigh.. back to the bench

Mike

My suggestion i to first use coarse grit from say 320 to quickly remove the mold seam and affecting the surrounding plastic. a sanding stick will be of great help. Then work the way up to finer grits. The finer grits will "blend in" the sanded "damaged" area and as it move up the grits things should get better and better. Final polish you can use tamiya polishing compound or other stuffs that is available but i think tamiya is easiest to work with. Work in circular actions. Try it, itz actually easier than you thought. ;)

Shame the LERX is off. This one builds so much easier than the Airfix offering that I would certainly buy a dozen if not for it.

Edited by Hero Ma
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