Jinro Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 (edited) Looking at some of the excellent prop builds around here, I've noticed that most people seem to use an airbrush for the exhaust stains. But how? Two things I'm worried about are 1) spraying too wide and covering half the model in exhaust and 2) getting that tapered end where the stain slowly disappears. How's it done? Edited November 26, 2011 by Jinro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 (edited) Hate to be sarcastic, but with the airbrush. It's basic airbrushing skill/control. What type of brush are you using? If you can't manage the airbrush, you could always hand-brush Pastel Chalks to get the same affect, actually you could use a combination of both. Curt Edited November 26, 2011 by Netz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Collin Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 I start with a highly thinned paint and low pressure (but not too low in order to avoid spattering). I start close to the model near the exhaust area and spray in the direction of the airflow pulling away from the aircraft. Or I just flick my wrist with the airbrush in the direction of the airflow. All I can say is practice this on a peice of scrap before you try it on the aircraft, trust me on that one!! Cheers Collin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jinro Posted November 27, 2011 Author Share Posted November 27, 2011 Hate to be sarcastic, but with the airbrush. It's basic airbrushing skill/control. What type of brush are you using? Paasche H. I thought about the pull away method Collin suggested, but on a smaller scale that would cause the spread to be a bit too wide. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thegoodsgt Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 As Netz said it's all about paint control, much of which is learned with trial and error and practice. I will sometimes mix up some paint and simply practice different mixtures and techniques on an old model. (Reduces the risk of ruining a "good" model!) But that's obvious. I also recommend thinning your paint a lot (like 1:10 ratio of paint to thinner) so you can SLOWLY build up the exhaust stains. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawkeye's Hobbies Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 When I use my airbrush to apply exhaust staining I use a well diluted color that best matches the reference photographs I have found or taken myself. Apply in very light layers until you have reached the desired staining you seek. Also remember you need to feather the aft edges of the stain because as the gases cool and the flow of air across the surfaces the less likely exhaust staining will occur. Remember that exhaust is a combination of heat discoloration of the surface and staining...not "paint" so it shouldn't look like it was painted on. Another method I use is using my Steel colored Polishing Powder applied with a foam makeup applicator. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kei Lau Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 Paasche H. I thought about the pull away method Collin suggested, but on a smaller scale that would cause the spread to be a bit too wide. Yes, the overspray of the Paashce H will be too wide for most detail work. You may consider a better airbrush that allow you more control. The Iwata Eclipse, Harder & Steenbeck Evolution or Badger Krome are good general purpose AB for modeling. They allow the user to build up skill much faster than an external mix, single action one. (Yes, I have these 3 and there are other good ones too.) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jinro Posted November 27, 2011 Author Share Posted November 27, 2011 I was hoping to avoid buying a new airbrush :P What about the pastel chalk method? Are these standard pastel chalks from your average art store? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thegoodsgt Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 Yep, pastels will work, the kind you buy in any art supply store. In fact, you can sometimes get even more subtle effects with them. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PetarB Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Pastels can work well, except for when you try and give them a protective coat. Airbrushing is the best technique, but there's a LOT of practice involved in my opinion. The other issue is that you need to go so lightly that at first it's not apparent that you've put anything on until it dries properly, so you REALLY need excellent lighting in your airbrush area. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Pastels work good, yes you can use the cheap ones that you find anywhere, I like the ones with 80+ colors. Just brush them on using varying colors, red browns, tans, greys. To set them I like to use Testors Dull Cote Lacquer, put in on in a light cote, one tip is to put the pastels on heavier than you think they need to be, over exaggerate the effect as the dull cote will reduce the affect about 20% depending on the color. Curt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
balls47 Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 Jinro, The Paasche H was the first airbrush I ever used and I used it for years. I ended up buying a second H. I like Paasche because they are made in the U.S.A., parts are readily available and affordable, they are workhorses, and a lot of the "pros" use them. I wanted a dual action, internal mix, gravity fed airbrush, so when the Paasche came out with the Talon, I bought one. I could do pretty much everything I needed to do for modeling with the H, but I could not believe the jump in performance I got from the Talon. If you are comfortable with the H, I would recommend buying a Talon. It has a setting mechanism at the rear end of the brush that, in essence, makes it a single action airbrush. If you check some of the online airbrush supply stores, you will find that the price should fit your budget. Please take to heart the great advice and info that Kei Lau and some of the other guys say about the airbrushes that they use. I can't and won't say anything about Iwata, H & S, or some of the other airbrushes because I have never used one. The only reason that I am giving info about Paasche is that it was the first and only airbrush that I have ever used. Simple as that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Carson Lomax Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 Paasche does make three different needle and tips to get different coverage ranges for the H. I've played with mine a bit but I can't recall the narrowest line I was able to get. That might be something to look into versus buying a new airbrush. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gtypecanare Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Tamiya Weathering Master Sets works really well as it has a foam applicator and you can build up the effect. If you make a mistake a little water on a cotton bud will work to wipe away to offending area. Happy Modeling! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DutyCat Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 You absolutely can do exhaust staining with an Paasche H and the Number 1 tip. No need to go super precise with a DA brush. The trick is thin paint. It is almost impossible to make a mistake with it as not very much goes on with one pass. As with anything else, basic airbrush skills are essential. I second what others have said about the H. It is practically the perfect general purpose airbrush. It's reputation is well deserved. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DutyCat Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Pastels work good, yes you can use the cheap ones that you find anywhere, I like the ones with 80+ colors. Just brush them on using varying colors, red browns, tans, greys. To set them I like to use Testors Dull Cote Lacquer, put in on in a light cote, one tip is to put the pastels on heavier than you think they need to be, over exaggerate the effect as the dull cote will reduce the affect about 20% depending on the color. Curt I recommend an art "fixative" spray over pastels, then use the Dullcote. Testors Dullcote on its own (which IMO is the best stuff made for ultra smooth, flat finishes) will make your hard work with pastels disappear! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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