ArmouredSprue Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Hi all Has anyone built this kit? How does it look? I'm planning to buy it but not sure, I just have finished to build their P38 (McGuire version - see in my blog for pics) and I'm wondering how their P61 is. cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
feddawg Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 The Dragon kit is good and basically the only game in town unless your a masochist and want to build the old Airfix kit. I would try to get one of the recent Dragon releases vs.the older DML as the surface texture doesn't seem to be as grainy. Many reviews speak of bad fit on the boom to wing joints but test fitting and some file and sand paper work on the one I built 10 years ago gave a decent fit. If you want to go the aftermarket route Aires make an excellent cockpit and Quickboost make engines and 2 different gun setups for the turret. One thing to be aware of is that the main landing gear doors are for the A model and will need to be modified to represent the B. If you built their P-38 you shouldn't have any problems with the P-61. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jennings Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 Isn't that the kit where the prop blades would have sliced into the side of the fuselage, or am I confusing it with another kit? Seems like one of them of that vintage had that problem... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chuck1945 Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 Jennings is close. I built the P-61A version back when it was a new release from DML. If the fuselage side aerials were located in the proper place, the props would take them out because the forward boom/cowl isn't quite the proper length. While I cant remember if the length error is short or long, it is only 1-2mm and mostly in the boom, making it extremely difficult to correct. The boom/wing/crew nacelle fitting can be tricky, but as long as you don't rush you should do ok with it. I replaced the kit engines with Aeroclub PW R2800s simply because the Aeroclub white metal engines helped add a little more weight. The kit is very definitely tail heavy and will require a goodly amount of added weight forward of the main gear to avoid tail sitting. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
J.C. Bahr Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 (edited) When I built mine, I looked at as many side-on profile pics as I could find in all my refs... and near as I could tell, if there's a problem with the length of the forward boom/cowling, then there must be a problem with the main fuselage from the wing forward as well. I personally think the prop-ARC is where it's supposed to be in relation to the fuselage... but I think those radar aerials were placed wrong and need to be moved forward a bit, which is what I did with mine. Pretty simple mod if you're careful. As for all the wing/boom/fuselage joints on this beast... would definitely recommend taping to the sides of the joints to minimize filler where it doesn't need to be and then slather on a layer of filler and do the Q-tip/nail-polish remover trick with the filler. Then go back and clean up with a bit of sanding. Not the easiest build, but light-years ahead of the alternatives. BTW - would definitely recommend getting the True Details resin wheels to replace the mains at least... they are much better than what is provided in the kit Hey Steve, why is the board automatically capitalizing "ARC" when I don't want it to?!?! :P Edited December 4, 2011 by J.C. Bahr Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ArmouredSprue Posted December 4, 2011 Author Share Posted December 4, 2011 Thanks heaps mates! I'll try to find it around here. Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geek44 Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 I built it...wouldn't do it again. I'd go for the old Monogram 1/48 kit which is also questionable but can be resurrected with work. DML was grainy and boom fit was lousy. There was also a very large gap that needed filling with a plastic card piece in the dorsal barbette if that's the version you plan to model. On the plus side the cockpit interior was pretty good for the scale. Generally I found the parts kinda 'meaty' and lacking finesse. Good luck, it's a beautiful bird and really needs re-kitting (HELLOOO TAMIYA and HASEGAWA!!!!) Peace. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LanceB Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 The main problem most folks are hitting on, that the props would take out the side antennas, is at least in part caused by the portion of the booms forward of the wing being too long. The cowl flaps should be right up against the wing LE, but built as-is they are well forward of the wing. Solution: trim/file the front ends of the booms back while test fitting to the wing and then sticking the cowl flaps on until there is no large fore-aft gap between the cowl flap trailing edge and the wing LE. IIRC you need to remove about 2mm. Pretty easy fix all things considered. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
theplasticsurgeon Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 Finishes out like this: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ArmouredSprue Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 Hi all! Thanks for the tips! theplasticsurgeon, nice model but I would prefer the all gloss balck version! Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
theplasticsurgeon Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 (edited) theplasticsurgeon, nice model but I would prefer the all gloss balck version! Cheers So would I - just wasn't available the day I found that one at a bargain price! However I do have this Airfix P-61B as well. The Dragon kit is massively superior. Edited December 5, 2011 by theplasticsurgeon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ArmouredSprue Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 Beauty! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
breadneck Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 Well as for today Dragon is your best bet. I ordered two B-models a while back from myatomic.com, and when opening, BOTH kits had the main undercarriages broken in the very same place. Got the A-version recently but still haven`t opened it. I guess the rough surface of the Dragon kits are a pain in the bum. One could maybe sand down this?! But whatever you go for, i think you have your work cut out for you. Wheater or not Dragon have lessened the surface texture of these kits, i do not know anything about. I don`t know if you need any aftermarket engines as they are situated way back inside the cowlings. Enjoy! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LanceB Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 Nice builds, Plasticsurgeon! And that pic of the Dragon kit perfectly shows the problem with the kit (not intended as a dig at your build of it!). Compare with this pic: P-61A Note how the cowl flaps come right up to the wing LE. True, the cowl flaps are closed, but they didn't move fore-aft, just hinged at their LE. Or compare to this pic with cowl flaps open: P-61 on ground Trim the front of the booms down so the cowling pushes right up to almost touching the wing LE, and you'll be all set. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve N Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 The problem with the Dragon P-61 is that it's really a dedicated "A" model..the "B" kit simply gives you the turret and longer nose. In order to make an accurate "B," you have to reconfigure the main landing gear doors. SN Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Milo Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 The problem with the Dragon P-61 is that it's really a dedicated "A" model..the "B" kit simply gives you the turret and longer nose. In order to make an accurate "B," you have to reconfigure the main landing gear doors. SN Really? I didn't know that. What's the difference between the A & B main landing gear doors? Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LanceB Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 (edited) Really? I didn't know that. What's the difference between the A & B main landing gear doors? Thanks! The A had 2 MLG doors - one left, one right. These doors were always open on the ground. The B had three - one small door that was open whenever the gear was extended to make an opening big enough for the strut, and two large ones that only opened during gear extension and retraction to allow the strut and wheel to rotate into the bay. Same basic design philosophy as the B-25. P-61A P-61B It is simplicity itself to convert the Dragon kit's P-61A arrangement to P-61B standard. Use your favorite drawings to determine the fore-aft length of the small door, cut that off of the outboard one-piece door as well as a small "tab" from the inboard door to allow clearance for the diagonal support on the main gear. See here. Also here. Glue the inboard door and large aft section of the outboard door in the closed position (you will need to either glue the strut in place first or modify it so it can be installed through the smaller opening after assembly and painting). Then once you are ready install the small forward outboard door (after glueing the two small sections you cutout above together to make one door). Edited December 7, 2011 by LanceB Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve N Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Lance is correct. It's not a massive reconstruction job, just something to be aware of if you want an accurate "B." I plan to build mine as an "A" with the frosted nose, so it's not an issue for me. SN Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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