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ThunderGrunt

1/48 Mustang Kit Guidance

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Hey all Im intrested in getting my first prop kits, a P-51D and a C/B. are the Fujimi D's anygood?? can you all rank the top 5 makers for B/C's and D's. Thanks in Advance

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Tamiya hands down for B, C and D. The only difference between the B and the C was where it was built. You can get them fairly cheaply these days too. Tamiya also recently rereleased the P-51D kit in a couple different forms with different markings and I believe they are printed by Cartograf. I also think they released one with the 1/48 U.S. staff car, but I'm not positive on that.

Edited by SoarinSukhoi

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The Fujimi kit is from the early 1970s. It's not even usually included on a list of 'decent' 1/48 kits. Even the ca. 1978 Monogram kit is light years better than Fujimi. Tamiya's kits are hands-down winners all around though.

J

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As others have said, Tamiya's are probably the best B/C and D's, and they're readily available. I believe the various D boxings have different goodies--some have more extensive decal sheets (8th AF Aces) or more extensive stores (F-51D Korean War). As SoarinSukhoi said, they also released one with a 48th scale don't-call-it-a-Cadillac staff car. I think there may be one that includes the parts for a K (different prop) too.

It's widely reported that the ICM B/C kits are such direct copies of the Tamiya kits that the parts are interchangeable, but the fit isn't quite as good.

For early Allison-engine models (P-51, P-51A, F-6, and A-36), the Accurate Miniatures are the only game in town, and they're nice kits. AM also has several boxing of B/C kits, including some post-war civilian racers; they're supposed to be nice too. Hasegawa's D/K's are OK, but the spinner isn't shaped quite right, but before the Tamiya D came out was considered the one to get. Monogram's are B/C and D old, but they still build up nice as long as you don't mind the raised panel lines--plus they're cheap. Stay away from the ancient Hawk/Testors kit, it's pretty terrible by comparison to all the others.

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Thanks All I cant remember where I read but head that one of the Mono/Pro Modeler kits had recessed lines. am I wrong?

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Thanks All I cant remember where I read but head that one of the Mono/Pro Modeler kits had recessed lines. am I wrong?

The Promodeler 1/48 P-51B has recessed lines, but you can probably get the much nicer Tamiya kit easier and for less. The Monogram kit is not the same kit as the Promodeler one.

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The PM P-51B was the first (and only) attempt to modify and existing mold with raised detail so that it had engraved detail. The only way to do that is to increase the size of the inside of the mold cavity (all except the panel lines). That means the entire model is now that much "fatter" than it was before. Essentially they ruined their P-51B mold in so doing, and it hasn't been tried again (thank goodness). The resulting kit was too fat, and had a pebbly texture on all the surfaces from the process (vapor honing, if I recall correctly) used to do it. Not a good idea to start with.... It's still a late 1960s kit no matter how you slice it.

J

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I think to be safe Ill start with a Monogram or Revell kit, don't know which one yet, whichever is cheaper then ill get a hase or tamiya, then a newer Tamiya for when I build my Great Uncles plane from 332nd FG.

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I think to be safe Ill start with a Monogram or Revell kit, don't know which one yet, whichever is cheaper then ill get a hase or tamiya, then a newer Tamiya for when I build my Great Uncles plane from 332nd FG.

Tamiya only makes one Mustang. The newer ones are just reboxings.

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Ok couple more ?'s on marking how are the A/C marked for example I have seen 4 differnt ac with marking of 6N-K and WZ-J then another with 6N-I and WZ-K are those the different squadrons within the group like WZ-K is xx squadron within 78 and WZ-J is xx squadron within 78 FG?? Then what do Bar over or Under mean by the last letter

on the fuselage

Edited by ThunderGrunt

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The Hawk kit isn't actually that bad. The shape is a bit off on the spine and the cockpit is very 1962 (ie not accurate in the least), but otherwise it's a solid little kit and builds up well. I'm actually building one right now, chrome plating & all.

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Ok couple more ?'s on marking how are the A/C marked for example I have seen 4 differnt ac with marking of 6N-K and WZ-J then another with 6N-I and WZ-K are those the different squadrons within the group like WZ-K is xx squadron within 78 and WZ-J is xx squadron within 78 FG?? Then what do Bar over or Under mean by the last letter

on the fuselage

Simply put, the two letters denote the squadron and the single letter is the aircraft designator. So WZ-J is aircraft J of squadron code WZ.

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To go with a cheap kit, I would take the ICM Mustang. Even it required a bit more wot than shake-and-bake Tamiya. Aren't we modellers, huh? Good for training our skills! ;-)

To be honest, you can find a Hase or Tamiya P-51 in evil bay from second hand for the same price or only few bucks more than you have to pay for a kit in the shop (from Monogram or PM).

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Nowadays you can buy the Tamiya P-51D or its ICM clone for around $20.

It is the best 1/48 Mustang.

The Hasegawa kit is also very good.

The much older Monogram, Hawk and Revell kits deserve a honorable mention but when you consider the fact that the Monogram kit costs almost the same as the Tamiya kit, the choice is easy.

All these kits have flaws but can be turned into nice P-51D models with some extra work.

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Mawz

thanks do you know what the bars mean above or below the last letter??

A squadron would sometimes end up with two aircraft with the same letter marking, in which case they would add a bar to the markings to differentiate between the two.

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Mawz

thanks do you know what the bars mean above or below the last letter??

for instance useing the letter B if there is already a "B" then another air craft would have a "B bar" (bar below the letter)

HTH

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Ok guys dumb ? again. how would they have an aircraft lettered the same. Lets say in a P-51 squadron the Sq Commander would be HO-A Xo would be HO-B and on down he line?? and when the squadron was at HO-Z the next would be HO-A. Did the squadrons have hat many A/C. I have been looking for a typical Squadron Breakdown at the time and PAA and how the A/C's were marked within a squadron but can't find any. hanks for the help.

Euge

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Hey all Im intrested in getting my first prop kits, a P-51D and a C/B. are the Fujimi D's anygood?? can you all rank the top 5 makers for B/C's and D's. Thanks in Advance

guess I'm gonna be the odd man out here. I have the Tamiya and it's not a bad kit, but honestly I like the A.M. P51B kit better! A.M. also is the goto for the early Allison engined aircraft. For a P51D the Tamiya is OK, but have issues with the kit. For their price tag they could have done a much better job I think. I don't think I have a Hasegawa kit in my stash, and have never had any Mustangs that were not Tamiya or Accurate Minatures to be honest.

gary

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guess I'm gonna be the odd man out here. I have the Tamiya and it's not a bad kit, but honestly I like the A.M. P51B kit better! A.M. also is the goto for the early Allison engined aircraft. For a P51D the Tamiya is OK, but have issues with the kit. For their price tag they could have done a much better job I think. I don't think I have a Hasegawa kit in my stash, and have never had any Mustangs that were not Tamiya or Accurate Minatures to be honest.

gary

Accurate Minatures is the only company that produces the first Allison engined P-51A. I've had both the A.M. and the Tamiya P-51B and I prefer the Tamiya. Tamiya's 1/48 P-51s aren't expensive. You can get them for around $20 which is cheaper than the A.M. kit. Also the Tamiya Mustangs are one of their older kits. If Tamiya scaled down their 1/32 Mustang there wouldn't even be a debate for a P-51D in 1/48.

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Ok all I just grabbed 2 Tamiya D's the Blue nose kits and a Hasegawa D, for 50$. but what has suprised me is that the tamiya kits are molded in silver. I have never seen that, will my paints stick?? Have any of you built these kits are they just like the other ones??

Thunder

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Ok all I just grabbed 2 Tamiya D's the Blue nose kits and a Hasegawa D, for 50$. but what has suprised me is that the tamiya kits are molded in silver. I have never seen that, will my paints stick?? Have any of you built these kits are they just like the other ones??

Thunder

Yes. The only difference between the plastic is the color. They are the same kit as the original Tamiya, but with new decals. You can wash the plastic if you want.

There are several build-ups of the kit on this forum you can search for. Google will also lead you to a few such as these:

http://doogsmodels.com/2011/07/13/tamiya-p-51d-mustang-build-report-1-cockpit-and-main-assembly/

http://www.swannysmodels.com/P51d.html

http://cs.finescale.com/FSMCS/forums/p/139871/1465660.aspx

Edited by SoarinSukhoi

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why dont we also talk about painting mustangs too like how to do a natual metal mustang and the interior colors of them and the other parts. because a lot of war bird mustangs flying now dont even match what was seen in war time. plus i think it would help some people like me

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Yes. The only difference between the plastic is the color. They are the same kit as the original Tamiya, but with new decals. You can wash the plastic if you want.

There are several build-ups of the kit on this forum you can search for. Google will also lead you to a few such as these:

http://doogsmodels.com/2011/07/13/tamiya-p-51d-mustang-build-report-1-cockpit-and-main-assembly/

http://www.swannysmodels.com/P51d.html

http://cs.finescale.com/FSMCS/forums/p/139871/1465660.aspx

Unless he got two of the "chrome-plated" kits…

If not, then you are, of course, correct. :worship:

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