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If you clean your airbrush thoroughly after each use, especially after using some of the modern poly based acrylics, you should only have to do a tear down once every 6 months to a year. I also have an ultrasound for the purpose but be aware that some formulas for cleaning are also destructive on the seals and other parts of some airbrushes. Sometimes, back flushing can cause more contamination or damage especially around the air valve (trigger) area. I have found that Grex is especially sensitive in that regard. Follow the manufacture's instructions otherwise you may be disappointed when you have to send it in for repair or replacement parts.

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For me it depends on what paint you are cleaning out of it, but even then the only thing that changes is what you use to clean it out.

 

Something simple like acrylic i just flush it out with hot water, use a rag to get the paint out the colour cup then a half cup of cleaner through the airbrush, or more to make sure its not blowing any more paint through then take the needle out the back (not the front) clean it off with a rag with some thinners on it then put it back and its good to go again...
Lacquer paints are pretty much the same as acrylic paints.

 

2pack paints like Zero paints I have a "bath" of cellulose thinners I wash the colour cup out in instead of water and do the same as above but with cellulose thinners.

 

I never have a problem with a dirty airbrush. I dont know why people make cleaning it so complicated.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have an Iwata HP-CP.

 

I find I often get 'gunk' buildup and blockages in mine after using Alclad.  I think it might be because the Alclad reacts with the residue of either the cheap Bunnings lacquer thinner I use to clean the thing out after each colour, or some of the acrylics paints I use before shooting Alclad.  I often shoot a bit of Alclad cleaner before using the Alclad though, and always after using the Alclad.

 

It often necessitates removal of the fine tip nozzle and cleaning it out with a fine dentists root-canal tool 😬 as that's where the blockage is.  And often some gunk between that nozzle & the paint cup.

 

Lately been getting a sticky trigger too, despite pulling it all apart and lubricating with the blue lubricant that comes with the set.

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Not used Alclad for a long time but when I did I cleaned it out with cheap cellulose thinners.

You might find the needle seal is dirty, which is why the needle has trouble travelling smoothly.

Shouldnt take more than 5 minutes to unscrew it and give it a clean then put it back.

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6 minutes ago, ElectroSoldier said:

Not used Alclad for a long time but when I did I cleaned it out with cheap cellulose thinners.

You might find the needle seal is dirty, which is why the needle has trouble travelling smoothly.

Shouldnt take more than 5 minutes to unscrew it and give it a clean then put it back.

 

The needle seal is definitely dirty!  I've not been game to take it out though - not even sure how, I think it needs a special tool?

 

I've shone a torch up the back of the airbrush and can see a bit of gunk around the rubber? teflon? needle seal.  I've stuck screwed up tissue dunked in thinner up there from the rear & managed to clean some off, but obviously not all.

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Easier done than said

Remove the Rear body (fingers)
Remove needle chuck (fingers)
Remove needle (fingers)
Remove the Spring Guide (pliers)
Remove the Needle guide and Trigger (fingers)
Unscrew the Needle Seal (flat screw driver)

Clean it, lube it and put it back together...
The only "tricky" part is putting the trigger group back together...
I think I saw Florymodels strip down a Procon recently do "service" it...
He is rather average as far as airbrushers go but I seem to remember the strip down was clearlt filmed.

Edited by ElectroSoldier
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5 hours ago, ElectroSoldier said:

Easier done than said

Remove the Rear body (fingers)
Remove needle chuck (fingers)
Remove needle (fingers)
Remove the Spring Guide (pliers)
Remove the Needle guide and Trigger (fingers)
Unscrew the Needle Seal (flat screw driver)

Clean it, lube it and put it back together...
The only "tricky" part is putting the trigger group back together...
I think I saw Florymodels strip down a Procon recently do "service" it...
He is rather average as far as airbrushers go but I seem to remember the strip down was clearlt filmed.

 

Thanks for that. I've done all of the first 5 steps before though can do all that with fingers (no need for pliers?), just not the last step of removing the needle seal.  Might have to give it a crack.  Might look at some how to vids first though so I don't stuff it up.

 

 

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Dont need pliers, it doesnt need to be set all that tight.

Yeah if youre not sure give some videos a look to be sure. Dont forget to get the spring out too, its down there

 

This is what you need to remove and give a wipe over

 

Iwata 7251 PTFE Solvent Resistant Needle Seal & Screw for the Kustom, Hi-Line, High Performance Plus & Eclipse Airbrush ranges (air-craft.net)

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37 minutes ago, ElectroSoldier said:

Dont need pliers, it doesnt need to be set all that tight.

Yeah if youre not sure give some videos a look to be sure. Dont forget to get the spring out too, its down there

 

This is what you need to remove and give a wipe over

 

Iwata 7251 PTFE Solvent Resistant Needle Seal & Screw for the Kustom, Hi-Line, High Performance Plus & Eclipse Airbrush ranges (air-craft.net)

 

Thanks for that.  I can see now how that seal easily screws out.  But I'm not sure what the spring is you refer to?

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Ok Im going from memory here so bare with me

 

When you hold the airbrush

 

Unscrew the rear body
Unscrew chuck nut (to allow you to remove the needle)
remove needle

unscrew spring guide (this reveals the needle spring)
remove Needle spring (it might come out with the Needle chuck)
remove Needle chuck (This has a thead one end to put the chuck nut on and an S shaped paddle the other to control the trigger)
nb be careful with the needle chuck, it doesnt take much to pull that S shaped paddle off and you will need a new one.

raise slightly, twist and pull up the trigger

 

Your airbrush is now "mostly" stripped down.

The are only a few parts left still on it

 

If you look down the hole you just made down there there is a hole right in the middle, around it you should see the chrome plating and a brass circle at the end with two notches either side of it (That is the needle seal set). Thats where the flat head screw driver fits into, those two little notches.
Unscrew the needle seal set 

 

Clean the white disc at the end of it

 

Put it all back together.

 

nb

Take note of the orintation of the Needle chuck. The paddle must fit snug up to the trigger with the thin end up leaning forwards and the bottom against the notch in the body so it can act as a fulcrum.

 

 

Edited by ElectroSoldier
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6 hours ago, ElectroSoldier said:

Ok Im going from memory here so bare with me

 

When you hold the airbrush

 

Unscrew the rear body
Unscrew chuck nut (to allow you to remove the needle)
remove needle

unscrew spring guide (this reveals the needle spring)
remove Needle spring (it might come out with the Needle chuck)
remove Needle chuck (This has a thead one end to put the chuck nut on and an S shaped paddle the other to control the trigger)
nb be careful with the needle chuck, it doesnt take much to pull that S shaped paddle off and you will need a new one.

raise slightly, twist and pull up the trigger

 

Your airbrush is now "mostly" stripped down.

The are only a few parts left still on it

 

If you look down the hole you just made down there there is a hole right in the middle, around it you should see the chrome plating and a brass circle at the end with two notches either side of it (That is the needle seal set). Thats where the flat head screw driver fits into, those two little notches.
Unscrew the needle seal set 

 

Clean the white disc at the end of it

 

Put it all back together.

 

nb

Take note of the orintation of the Needle chuck. The paddle must fit snug up to the trigger with the thin end up leaning forwards and the bottom against the notch in the body so it can act as a fulcrum.

 

 

 

Thanks mate.  I'll get into it !

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On 8/6/2021 at 1:14 PM, ElectroSoldier said:

Ok Im going from memory here so bare with me

 

When you hold the airbrush

 

Unscrew the rear body
Unscrew chuck nut (to allow you to remove the needle)
remove needle

unscrew spring guide (this reveals the needle spring)
remove Needle spring (it might come out with the Needle chuck)
remove Needle chuck (This has a thead one end to put the chuck nut on and an S shaped paddle the other to control the trigger)
nb be careful with the needle chuck, it doesnt take much to pull that S shaped paddle off and you will need a new one.

raise slightly, twist and pull up the trigger

 

Your airbrush is now "mostly" stripped down.

The are only a few parts left still on it

 

If you look down the hole you just made down there there is a hole right in the middle, around it you should see the chrome plating and a brass circle at the end with two notches either side of it (That is the needle seal set). Thats where the flat head screw driver fits into, those two little notches.
Unscrew the needle seal set 

 

Clean the white disc at the end of it

 

Put it all back together.

 

nb

Take note of the orintation of the Needle chuck. The paddle must fit snug up to the trigger with the thin end up leaning forwards and the bottom against the notch in the body so it can act as a fulcrum.

 

 

 

Did it.  Filmed it on my GoPro.  Getting the needle seal in/out was much easier than expected.

 

 

 

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I used to clean my airbrush like some do with their rifles and such...more cleaning than shooting.

With acrylics just blowing a load of isopropanol alcohol through it and leave a little bit in it.

With harsher stuff: take it apart, remove the rubber sealings and clean it otherwise you will regret it.

 

 

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On 7/24/2021 at 2:25 AM, Night Owl Models said:

I used this airbrush heavily for a big priming job it's a spare airbrush. Here it is disassembled into a tank of Windex 100%.

i-j2BvJdZ-600x450.jpg

 

 

Hi Owl, do you have a Harder & Steenbeck Infinity CR Plus airbrush as a spare tool? Wonder what your main tool is then? 

I recall having read on the user's manual of that airbrush that ammonia is not recommended as a cleaning solution? Also, isn't the teflon washer at the base of the colour cup chamber supposed to be removed from the body first before putting it in the ultrasonic cleaner? How do you remove that washer? 

I've just learnt how to properly use the Quick Fix feature on this airbrush, so the mere idea of stripping it down still freaks me out, hahahahaa... 

 

Think it'd be useful if every poster edited their inputs on this thread to notice what tool they're using.

   

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  • 3 weeks later...

After successfully cleaning the needle seal, I've stupidly stuffed it by putting my finger over the end of the nozzle while spraying paint.  I took the seal out again and cleaned it (it was not dirty) and everything else, but now the needle is much harder to push through the airbrush body/needle seal & the trigger much tighter, and the whole thing not performing so well.

 

It seems the needle seal may have swollen and is grabbing the needle too tight.  The Iwata lube does not seem to help.

 

Any suggestions?  Can the needle seal be carefully sanded a bit wider internally?

 

cheers

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20 minutes ago, Thommo said:

After successfully cleaning the needle seal, I've stupidly stuffed it by putting my finger over the end of the nozzle while spraying paint.  I took the seal out again and cleaned it (it was not dirty) and everything else, but now the needle is much harder to push through the airbrush body/needle seal & the trigger much tighter, and the whole thing not performing so well.

 

It seems the needle seal may have swollen and is grabbing the needle too tight.  The Iwata lube does not seem to help.

 

Any suggestions?  Can the needle seal be carefully sanded a bit wider internally?

 

cheers

Could you possibly have bent the needle?

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19 minutes ago, Curt B said:

Could you possibly have bent the needle?

 

Good point!  I just checked but no it seems straight against a steel ruler edge.

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I took the seal out again and stuck the needle through it and it is def way too tight.  As if the plastic/teflon insert has swelled a tiny bit.

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I think I solved it!

 

1. Very light sanding internally of needle seal.

2. Screw the needle seal back in looser.  Must have put it back a tad too tight which was compressing the seal.

 

Needle move much more freely now.

 

Traps for young players.

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