MaRiO FDZ Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Hi fellas. I have been recently introduced to Tenax. It seems like a great idea, my question is how to apply it? I know I brush it, but does the brush have to stay in the bottle? do I throw it away cuz the glue hardens it? Cotton Swabs?? Thank you, and Take Care Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MaRiO FDZ Posted January 8, 2012 Author Share Posted January 8, 2012 VERY interesting!!! Where do I get this tool?? Take Care Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jester292 Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Thanks for the link to the video. That's a very handy too, where can I get one? Aaron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boom175 Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 I use a drafting pen, works good and it dont break if I drop it on my bench (or floor). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
salvine Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Most hobby shops or online hobby retailers carry them. No hard to find at all. Also see this thread. http://s362974870.onlinehome.us/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=243004 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Williams Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 I also use a drafting pen. I tried a touch and flow and had constant problems with the tip clogging up. Only used it a few times before just giving up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dmk0210 Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 (edited) I just got a replacement Touch N Flow at Hobby Lobby. I dropped my last one and broke it. I highly recommend it. It's one of the best tools I ever bough. You can find them on Ebay too: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flex-i-File-Touch-n-flow-model-glue-applicator-711-/150683631107?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item231571be03 Edited January 8, 2012 by dmk0210 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sharkmouth Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 I also use a drafting pen. Would someone post an image of the drafting pen? Is it like the Rapidograph? I have a set of these for inking panel lines but never thought they could be used for a hot cement containing Methylene Chloride. I too have had issues with the Touch-n-Flow tip clogging up but that was due to my not keeping the tip in motion away from the seam so plastic chips got in. now I have two (one is a back-up). Regards, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Williams Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 The thing I have has two nibs, like tweezers, with a screw to adjust the gap between them attached to a thin handle. You tip the tip into the Tenax, it gathers some glue between the close spaced nibs, and then you touch the tip ti the seam, and the glue flows out be capillary action. If the gap gets clogged with melted plastic, I pull a piece of paper between the nibs to open the gap back up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boom175 Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Would someone post an image of the drafting pen? See if this pic works Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 I just use a small tipped paint brush,#1 or smaller, The best glue brush I had was a old worn out bamboo handled paint brush it has about 6-8 hairs left the spacing between then held the right amount of glue, and the bristles came to a curved point like a claw. Now I have been using the Plastistruct glue which has a brush in the lid, I use it to join fuselages, and wings, I took a second brush from an empty bottle and cut away 2/3 of the bristles and use it for small applications. Don't worry about the glue drying on the brush, it is a chemical and will just evaporate without leaving any residue, and for this same fact, keep the lid screwed on, if you leave it off the bottle my be empty after a day of being open. Curt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bigasshammm Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 I have always used a brush with tenax. I just clean it in paint thinner like every other brush. May not be necessary but I've been using the same brush for years. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
toadwbg Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Small brush works great for me. Hold surfaces to be bonded loosely together such that a hairline gap exists if any. Dip brush in Tenax, Touch and run brush along seam. Capillary attraction does half the work or better. Squeeze surfaces together. It's perfect if you get just a little ooze. I'll usually use clamps for surfaces like wing halves. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 I have always used a brush with tenax. I just clean it in paint thinner like every other brush. May not be necessary but I've been using the same brush for years. Yep, and they don't break. Curt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jennings Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 The fanciest tool I've ever used is a crappy 59c paintbrush. I have one of the touch-n-flow things but all I've ever done with it is make a mess. I have much better control with a small brush. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gharlane Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Would someone post an image of the drafting pen? See if this pic works it is actually called a ruling pen. it was used when hand drafting was the norm. you dip it in an inkwell(Tenax bottle) and capillary attraction draws ink/liquid cement between the nibs. you use it as you would the Touch-N-Flow applicator. Pull it across the seam/part to be glued. don't push it across. HTH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Williams Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 (edited) See if this pic works Yep, that's similar to what I have. I went looking for one at a small local stationary store and they had one in an old incomplete drafting set they had in a back room. Think they gave it to me for a buck or so. Had it for 15 years or more, I think. One of the best modeling tools that I ever bought. Edited January 9, 2012 by Dave Williams Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SoarinSukhoi Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 I don't use Tenax or any brand of dichloromethane, but to apply other liquid cements I use the brush from a Tamiya Extra Thin cap, paint brushes and microbrushes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TomcatFanatic123 Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 ...keep the lid screwed on, if you leave it off the bottle my be empty after a day of being open... This man speaks the honest-to-God truth...don't ask me how I know <_< Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SBARC Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 I prefer the Tamiya liquid cement......the shorter bottle is less likely to tip over (as compared to the Tenex bottle) and the Tamiya glue has a excellent brush that ends in a very fine tip. The brush is attached to the inside of the lid that seems to last forever. Plus Tamiya glue works well on kit styrene. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Moose135 Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 I prefer the Tamiya liquid cement......the shorter bottle is less likely to tip over (as compared to the Tenex bottle) For taller bottles that may tip, I use a block of Styrofoam (from packing material from something...) that I cut an appropriate sized hole to fit the bottle, giving it a wider base to avoid tipping. I have one of those touch-flow things, and I can never get it work properly... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SoarinSukhoi Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 I prefer Tamiya cement as well. It gives you more working time than other liquid cements and it's acetone based and a bit safer than dichloromethane based cements like Tenax, Pro-Weld, etc. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sharkmouth Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 See if this pic works The picture works! It is the same that I use for adding cyanoacrylate glues... Regards, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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