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Finnish Mig-21F & 2xMig-21 Bis - RAF's Arctic Jaguar


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Great work with all!

This probably comes too late since it seems you've already glued the canopy, but the typical Soviet interior blue-green wasn't used at this point yet. Some countries might have applied it during an overhaul, but the Finnish F-13s retained their rather neutral grey cockpits right 'till the end.

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Thanks for mention it Janman.Next it will be right.

So i'm completely wrong with cockpit's colors.Black instrument panel by my rush and blue/green interior instead of grey. :bandhead2:

Imagine that i ordered interior green/blue and waited couple days.The only photos i had was from an Czechoslovak Air Force Mig-21MF here:

MiG-21MF Cockpit

Also 2 other photo for the seat and pipes details.

Finish MiG-21F-13 : Mikojan-Gurevitš MiG-21F-13 Fishbed (MG-61)

MiG-21F: Mikoyan-Gurevich MiG-21F Fishbed

Edited by Amen
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You are making some really good progress. I really appreciate your style of display as well, very helpful for passing along the issues you are running across as well as your solution.

I may have missed it but are you using white glue to fill the seams? I've seen it used on canopies but don't recall seeing it used for filling gaps as you are.

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Thank you very much Aaronw.

For covering the seam-lines on the model i use liquid putty.Its called Mr. dissolved putty you can see the bottle here:

Tuqt1s.jpg

For the joints that they can break easily,like the top wings joint with the fuselage or the areas that may need intensive re-scribe, i use instant glue.

The white material you see on canopies here is a water based glue.I use this glue not fill the gaps but to glue the canopy and avoid having a dim canopy.

I can easily take the excess with a wet ear swab.And the next day the material becomes transparent.If material shrinks too much and i like to cover the seamline i add liquid putty or Mr surfacer primer with a toothpick.

When i apply Mr dissolved putty i just wait a day or (some hours on summer) and then i use a sandpaper to fine the surface.

When i apply Mr surfacer i instant take the excess with an ear swap dipped on lacquer thinner.Like here on these joints:

EsecDs.jpge9VC1s.jpg

Edited by Amen
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  • 4 weeks later...

I've never used any of the MR products. I guess their disolved putty must be kind of like when people mix liquid glue to thin putty.

Hope you are still plugging away, I'm looking forward to that Jaguar in arctic camo.

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Hi the situation here in greece last weeks was critical.

We are in an economical break down and this affected my modeling mood.

On this panic i was working on a website so i can promote it as soon as possible.I finished it.

Today we had a meeting with some modeling friends talked about the hobby and cheer up.Soon i'm gonna have an update,thnx for the interest :)

Edited by Amen
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  • 2 weeks later...

Primer had applied on jaguar.Many corrections are needed to be done before the painting.

DtB0A.jpg

here are some pics with the previous steps of construction.

np8eK.jpguNBgE.jpgLJfTM.jpgaq9CM.jpgh8eXv.jpg

I was looking on this site 41retro.co.uk

to determine the camo i will choose.There are 5 different camouflages.

I chose xz363

9y94S.jpg3rcjZ.jpg

Edited by Amen
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Before painting the main color (white) i will spray some points with enamel color.So later i can make a weathering effect.I will try to make the oil stains like the last photo and the airbrakes.

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Thank you rotorwash i'm glad u like the camo.

Today i'm gonna re sand some joints and re scribe the lost panel lines.

Edited by Amen
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That makes me tired just looking at it.

:lol: i'm looking the pics again and i feel some "overage"

I don't think I would be that dedicated.

Care what u say,i said the same when started it.Then some areas needed sanding.. :P

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After a lot of work.I'm here with jaguar.

PJQJk.jpgcNsR7.jpgeFxYK.jpgdXJeM.jpg

I added some rivets and removed some bumps from the wings.Made some details Gr1 kit is missing and sprayed many hands of flat white.

Then i did a post shading with light brown+gray.

photos of work:

Dr1COs.jpg liAYts.jpg OtgiQs.jpg KshWqs.jpg 3lTL9s.jpg mOf1Ws.jpg

Dont know if i'm gonna keep it in such contrast,i will se later.Maybe i will spray a thin layer of white.

Not sure if varnishes will make it more smooth at the end, as usual, because base color is white.

If anyone has an experience how varnish reacts in a white model please advise me.

Edited by Amen
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I was trying to do the fuel tank weathering using the tape effect with some under layers,but i over did it. :gr_barf:

So i made a reset and will give it a try tommorow :gun:

KRbOj.jpg

I also made the rest fuel tanks, the back wings, and sprayed a light filter all over the model to decrease the contrast of postshading.

jNLEX.jpg

Edited by Amen
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Looking good. I like the salt weathering technique. I am curious though, why did you remove the salt before you painted the tank (or is it going to be white)?

Ray

Thank you rotowash!!

According to this photo green seems freshpainted.I see the chipping only in white areas.

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:crying2: Main body masked.I did it looking the real photos.MAnual's scheme dont match the real deal. I'm not sure for the right wing of under surface. :blink:

3blJy.jpgjzjUo.jpgPCRxf.jpgfrj1M.jpg

Edited by Amen
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