wardog Posted January 10, 2017 Author Share Posted January 10, 2017 Thanks again to all that have looked and left comments. Thanks to you as well coneheadff, always appreciate your feedback. Kike wanted an overall view of the airplane, unfortunately in Its current state there isn't much wow factor. Here are a few more pics that I meant to upload the other day. The white fairing is the piece that sits on the leading edge of the tail where the pitot tube exits. Also shown is the pitot tube I plan on using; It's from Master Models and for an F-105, not an A-6. I haven't found an aftermarket pitot for the A-6 and after some careful research, the one for the F-105 is not a perfect match but close enough. I am however going to have to remake the fairing as I did not make it tall enough. You can see the styrene I draped over the tail in the overall pic to make another one that fits over the hole I drilled into the tail last night. Enjoy E. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 I can't believe my eyes, Wardog! I have a few questions, hope you don't mind 'cause some stuff seem impossible to do and I don't understand how you did them -- like those openings/handles on the side of the console -- how did you open them up so close to the edge? I would imagine that thin edge would tear. Also, those stenciled lettering-- are those hand-painted or are they decals? How do you sand small parts so finely? I find it difficult to sand to shape small parts (like those joysticks) even using small square pieces of sandpaper. Lastly, those buttons on the joysticks - how did you paint them -- normally paint would run and create a mess even if you used the tiniest brush head. Those buttons don't show any painting mess at all. Sorry for all the questions. This is one amazed and puzzled spectator. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wardog Posted January 10, 2017 Author Share Posted January 10, 2017 Hello crackerjazz, thanks for looking and no worries on the questions. Many of the questions you have are for the same problems I encountered at some point. There have been many failed attempts at trying to fabricate something and success usually comes after spending a fair amount of time trying different things. You're right about the openings on the sides of the console and styrene wanting to tear. The method that worked for me was to drill two holes into a piece of styrene that is considerably larger than that of the end product. The drill diameter is what will determine the height of the opening. The spacing of the two holes you drill determines the length of the opening. Once drilled, take a straight edge and line it up with the top edge of both holes and carefully cut a line with a single edge razor blade. Be careful not to go past the holes. Repeat for the bottom holes. Now you gave a slot. You can now trim close to the edge of the slot with the razor blade without tearing anything. In essence, the trick here is to trim after making the slot, not before! If you need more clarification let me know. The stencils on the console are decals. I usually hold small parts with tweezers or other holding device and sand with a cloth type sand paper. Painting molded-on buttons is something i absolutely have no time or patience for. To fix that modelers nightmare, I sand buttons away and drill tiny holes into the plastic. I used stretched and painted sprue or styrene rod......same thing, for buttons. Nothing better in my opinion for a no-mess effect. Simply trim the sprue to size and insert into hole with a tiny bit of white glue.....easy as that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 That is pure genius, Wardog! Thanks! : ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichB63 Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 (edited) Outstanding work Elmo. The panel lines and fastener detail are top notch - delicate and precise. Inspired and amazed, Rich btw...Profimodeller has metal Intruder pitot tubes in 1/48 and 1/32 scale http://www.profimodeller.com/detail/48003-a-6a-pitot-tube/ Edited January 11, 2017 by RichB63 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kike Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 Quote there isn't much wow factor definatly the genious factor is strong in this one!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Incaroad Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 I can't wait to take pictures of this when completed... Hell I'd take pictures along the way if I could! This is just magnificent in every way imaginable! We'll certainly be talking Elmo!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
anj4de Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 Hello Wardog Words fail me...all I can say is...BEST work total I have seen so far. I keep mumbling to myself...Monogram 1/48, Monogram 1/48, Monogram 1/48...no, this is not 1/32 or bigger but Monogram 1/48! After having two gift vouchers for Amazon left over from Christmas I today pulled the trigger on a Hobby Boss A-6E. Goal is a halfway decent OOB build (maybe extra seats)...not more. My skills are...well in comparison to you...non existing. Thanks a lot for your wonderful build threat and for the inspiration. thanks a lot Uwe Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Karl Sander Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Incredible work. That cockpit has to be the most amazing feats of modeling I've seen! Hat's off to you good sir! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Thommo Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 On 22/07/2013 at 2:18 PM, wardog said: I know I've said I was gonna start the cockpit long ago and made a liar of myself multiple times but this time It's for real. The tub is in Its early stages with all the plumbing and gizmos still to be added to the bulkhead as well as painting the knobs and switches. I initially started with the idea of adding all my own switches to the consoles but after completing the switches on the two most forward panels I decided against doing the rest to save on time as well as my sanity. The weathering on the floor is probably overdone for a Navy jet as most receive a fair amount of corrosion control effort but I like the way it looks so I'm leaving it as it is. A few other details I added and are visible in the pics are the openings on the aft side of the center console side panel which will have wiring coming through and connecting to the fittings on the rear bulkhead. I'll post more as progress comes along Hi Wardog Can you explain how you achieved this weathering effect on the cockpit floor? cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wardog Posted January 23, 2017 Author Share Posted January 23, 2017 Hello Thommo.....that effect was achieved by first painting the floor Alclad Bright Aluminum, followed by a coat of Testors Zinc Chromate, the mustard yellow variety and finally overcoated with Dark Gull Gray. The scuffing was done by taking 3200 grit cloth backed sandpaper and folding it multiple times until I had a firm end and sanding the surface. You continue sanding until you expose the layer of paint you want shown. E. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wardog Posted January 27, 2017 Author Share Posted January 27, 2017 Thanks again to all that have left comments and especially to anj4de and Karl Sander for their thoughtful replies. Thought I'd post a few more pics of some work I just finished recently. The pics should do most of the talking so I'll skip on a lot of the description. The pics show the scoop on the upper aft fuselage and the long extension at the forward base of the tail. Not sure what It's called so I won't make up any names for it. The scoop is installed with white glue and I consider it permanent at this time, however it looks a little too large or out of scale to me so removing it shouldn't be a problem if I decide to sand it a bit. Thanks for looking E. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
black_widow Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 AMAZING WORK MAN !!!! Looks like A-6E will be next project after i'll finish mine B-1B Best regards Alex Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 Hi Elmo, flawless work seems to be your trademark. It looks really sharp. Is the scoop just made of styrene rod? And the body -- is that resin (and why resin)? And what are those holes at the bottom for? Sorry I keep bugging you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wardog Posted January 27, 2017 Author Share Posted January 27, 2017 Hello crackerjazz, no worries on the questions; that's what this forum is for. The white part of the scoop is styrene rod and the body is resin. I used resin only because I didn't have flat styrene of the proper thickness to match the diameter of the rod and the resin I did have was almost a perfect match. The flange on the scoop with the holes was made from .005 styrene which was shaved down to about .003. to look within scale. That said, the flange is very flimsy and difficult to work with. When glueing the flange to the scoop I want a strong bond especially around the periphery of the scoop. Super glue would be my first choice for this bond but I was worried the resulting squeeze out would leave a visible ridge on the flange...no bueno. My other choice for glue would have been Tamiya liquid cement had the scoop base been styrene but that stuff is so hot it would either warp or melt the thin flange. To counter these effects I traced the scoop on the flange and drilled out the holes at specific locations. I then used tiny amounts of white glue to locate the scoop to the flange. Once dry, I could permanently glue the flange to the scoop base from the bottom with extra thin super glue. Once the glue dried I gently sanded away any residue that crept onto the flange mating surface and the result is a strong bond without worrying about glue squeeze out. Sorry about the long explanation. E. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 Learning a lot, thanks! Really appreciate the explanation. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
A-10 LOADER Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 I have no words, I'm gonna go throw all my modeling stuff in the garbage. Maybe I'll take up checkers. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tumezz Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 (edited) Just bumped into this thread...this buillt is pure art. Keep it up! Edited January 27, 2017 by tumezz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kike Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 Excellent explanation Elmo! won't talk about your job cause everything's been said repetedly! What was your choice for seats finally? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Thommo Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 On 23/01/2017 at 0:19 PM, wardog said: Hello Thommo.....that effect was achieved by first painting the floor Alclad Bright Aluminum, followed by a coat of Testors Zinc Chromate, the mustard yellow variety and finally overcoated with Dark Gull Gray. The scuffing was done by taking 3200 grit cloth backed sandpaper and folding it multiple times until I had a firm end and sanding the surface. You continue sanding until you expose the layer of paint you want shown. E. Thanks mate Quote Link to post Share on other sites
phantom Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 Ho;ly freakin heck!!!! How have I missed this?????? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
girolamo69 Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 this is a MASTERPIECE ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
adamitri Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 On Fri Jan 27 2017 at 4:25 PM, A-10 LOADER said: I have no words, I'm gonna go throw all my modeling stuff in the garbage. Maybe I'll take up checkers. Steve I feel the same way.... but he would just kick our collective asses in that too. Grat job all the way around. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichB63 Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 (edited) The brilliance continues! Great work on the scoop and its flange...very realistic. And that plasticard fillet at the base of the vertical stab looks great. Can't wait to see more, Rich Edited January 30, 2017 by RichB63 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mr.Happy Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Truly you are a driven builder and I am so glad that you have taken the time to post you incredible work. 😳 It is stunning and we are looking forward to the next post😛 Keep building my friend 👍 Mr. Happy (In name only) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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