A-10 LOADER Posted May 23 4 hours ago, JohnS said: YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I thought you would like that. Steve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedCrown Posted May 27 Incredible work! How do you get your rescribing to look so precise, consistent and neat? It looks like a new tool Tamiya or GWH kit’s panel lines! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wardog Posted May 27 48 minutes ago, RedCrown said: Incredible work! How do you get your rescribing to look so precise, consistent and neat? It looks like a new tool Tamiya or GWH kit’s panel lines! Hello RedCrown, thanks for looking and the feedback. There's quite a few steps involved in getting results that look decent and of course, some very useful tools. I typically start by using a pencil with a sharpened tip and Post it Notes to draw out where I want the panel lines. This step is key because it helps ensure when putting down the Dymo Tape that you stay true to the lines you drew. Once the tape is secure, I use a very small diameter sewing needle chucked in a pin vise and go over each line multiple times. It's also important to try and use consistent pressure from start to finish so the lines come out devoid of sections that are too deep or shallow. I then use 3200 or so sandpaper to clean the ridge along the line that develops when scribing followed by running the scriber along the lines as many times as I need to to achieve the desired result. That's basically it! It's a very simple process but It's very time consuming to achieve the results you see in the pics. The other recommendation is simply to practice. It takes a little while to get the hang of it but you'll get it. I also now have at least three different needle diameters I use to achieve the look I'm after. For 48th scale, I use the smaller of my needles for the majority of lines to maintain scale appearance. One other thing to keep in mind is to use a needle that is large enough, but not too large, to allow for subsequent layers of paint, clear coats and washes to flow into the lines you scribe. If you have any other questions feel free to let me know. Cheers -Elmo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedCrown Posted May 27 1 hour ago, wardog said: Hello RedCrown, thanks for looking and the feedback. There's quite a few steps involved in getting results that look decent and of course, some very useful tools. I typically start by using a pencil with a sharpened tip and Post it Notes to draw out where I want the panel lines. This step is key because it helps ensure when putting down the Dymo Tape that you stay true to the lines you drew. Once the tape is secure, I use a very small diameter sewing needle chucked in a pin vise and go over each line multiple times. It's also important to try and use consistent pressure from start to finish so the lines come out devoid of sections that are too deep or shallow. I then use 3200 or so sandpaper to clean the ridge along the line that develops when scribing followed by running the scriber along the lines as many times as I need to to achieve the desired result. That's basically it! It's a very simple process but It's very time consuming to achieve the results you see in the pics. The other recommendation is simply to practice. It takes a little while to get the hang of it but you'll get it. I also now have at least three different needle diameters I use to achieve the look I'm after. For 48th scale, I use the smaller of my needles for the majority of lines to maintain scale appearance. One other thing to keep in mind is to use a needle that is large enough, but not too large, to allow for subsequent layers of paint, clear coats and washes to flow into the lines you scribe. If you have any other questions feel free to let me know. Cheers -Elmo Thanks a lot for the response. I will keep trying with your method. Cheers, Rick Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wardog Posted June 12 (edited) As always, thanks for all of your comments. I found some modeling time recently so I've been focusing on the speed brake hinges which aside from the wingfold area, are the last details necessary to complete the outboard wing sections. I must say that I wasn't prepared mentally for how much work was involved, nor the amount of time required to finish them. Unfortunately, I couldn't really skimp on any of the detail, especially the wing bottoms, as with the wings folded they are one of the most prominent visual elements of this build. Initially, I was not going to re-do the speed brake hinges because of the extra work required to an already exhausting build. However, considering how much work I've put in to this build and how generic the speed brake hinges are (pic below), I decided it would be a huge injustice to leave them as-is. At this point, all of the lower wing hinges are complete; the upper wing hinges are a bit more complicated but not too bad. The new hinges are a good improvement over the kit ones but are not perfect. The real hinges taper from top to bottom and along their length which is something I do not have the patience to try and represent. However, each real hinge is made up of a fwd/aft section and joined together with a bolt/nut which I did capture. For the nuts and bolts I used a combination of photo-etch nuts and solid shank hex head fasteners as shown in the pics below. The kit hinges. As you can see, pretty anemic. The new hinges. Better but far from perfect. You can see the hex head bolt on the inboard side of the outboard hinge in the two pics directly below. As stated earlier, no taper on the hinges because unless I used tooling, I wouldn't be able to achieve decent results by hand. Here is my arsenal of nuts and the bolts I used. The bolts are 0.7mm in size. The bolts come in a variety of types and sizes from 0.7 - 5.0mm. That's it for now. Thanks for looking. -Elmo Edited June 13 by wardog Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RichB63 Posted June 12 Brilliant! The scratch building effort really paid off in my opinion. Your hinges look much better - in keeping with the fidelity to detail of the overall project. Question: are the hinges cemented in place over the wing’s grey primer coat? Or do you first remove paint over the contact area? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wardog Posted June 12 (edited) Hello Rich, It's always nice to hear from The Master....and thank you again for all the positive feedback along the years. If I were smart, I would have waited to complete the hinges and glued them in place over bare plastic using TETC. However, because I was impatient and wanted to see the results of all the wing work, I shot a coat of primer. I knew this would present a small problem later when gluing the hinges but nothing I wasn't prepared for. I will be using the glue shown below to glue the hinges over the primer. It's a SUPER strong white glue which I've had great results with in the strength department. Of course the bond will never be as strong as if I had used TETC. When locating the hinges, I'll apply pressure and remove any large glue blobs that squeeze out as they are practically impossible to remove once dry. After a day or so, I'll completely remove any remaining glue residue with slightly damp pointed swabs as any residue left behind will show through subsequent primer/paint coats. The clean up process also dissolves the glue just enough to act as a filler for any gaps present at the contact area. The hinges won't be exposed to any loads, other than an errant slip of my hand during handling so the white glue should suffice. Cheers -Elmo Edited June 13 by wardog Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
A-10 LOADER Posted July 23 Beautiful work as usual Wardog. Steve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wardog Posted July 25 (edited) To continue with the latest theme of Intruder and Prowler WIP updates, here are a few pics of the work I recently completed on the outboard wing panels. The panels are now as complete as they are gonna be at this stage of the build and include the modified speed brake hinges and the ECM antennas. The speed brake hinges received a slight modification from the ones shown in my previous update. All eight hinges had their top sections tapered which at first I decided to forego for fear of screwing them up. Now that the O/B panels are done I can concentrate on the windscreen. A couple of pictures of the top wing sections. And a few pics of the bottom. Here is a closeup of a top/inbd hinge completed prior to paint. That's all for now. Cheers E Edited July 25 by wardog Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
A-10 LOADER Posted July 25 No pics Elmo ?? Steve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wardog Posted July 25 Not sure why the pics aren't showing up when I initially load them here. Each new pic I take is saved in my Google Photos first and prior to sharing on ARC I always transfer them to the shared folder. Anyway, I created yet another new folder as that seemed to work the last time I had this issue. If they're not visible now, my apologies.......maybe I'll have to find a different service to share pics. Cheers Elmo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
A-10 LOADER Posted July 25 Well, they are visible now Elmo. Wow, such a work of art !! Makes me want to fly mine right into the waste basket. Keep up the outstanding efforts. I was gonna ask how the forward windscreen worked out for you, guess we'll see in the near future. Steve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RichB63 Posted July 26 Amazing; awesome; sublime; superior; stupendous! I’m running out of superlatives to describe your work, as I suspect others are too. Heck, I don’t even know what half those words mean! 🤨🙂 Super inspiring stuff Elmo...a real treat to behold. Rich Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dsahling Posted August 6 You should do another A-6E Intruder in 1/32....if you do this kind of quality workmanship in 1/48th....keep up the good work Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
