Jump to content

Overdone NMF models


Recommended Posts

A pet peeve of mine are some of the waaay overdone natural metal finishes I've seen on a good number of models lately. Many of these are P-51 / P-47's that are adorned with all the mission / kill markings of a hardworked veteran but are finished in an almost chrome-like, pristine metallic finish. On top of that, they might have a bit of token exhaust staining but that is it for weathering. I think that these finishes are completely unrealistic for a WW2 combat aircraft (for that matter, Korean era as well). The only time I've ever seen finishes even close to those are on modern warbirds where the owner flies the aircraft a few hours per month (in clear weather only) and the aircraft is then immediately stored in an enclosed hanger, to be waxed and buffed on a routine basis.

While net surfing tonight, I came across a great picture that illustrates how a combat aircraft actually looked:

http://jetpilotoverseas.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/136289006-02bg5aqm-adsc_7314x.jpg

To be honest, I'm not 100% sure on whether Korean F-51's were natural metal or painted overall aluminum but regardless, this picture does a great job of illustrating how dirty and worn out a true combat veteran looked, as opposed to some of the toy-like models I've seen. Obviously, every one should build to please themselves but IMO, it just seems a bit silly to build a kit of a Mustang that was in constant combat for months and then paint it with a mirror-like chrome finish. I'm guessing that even when they rolled off the factory floor, these planes didn't have that level of gloss to them. Personally, I think it takes more work to replicate a true, weathered NMF finish than any high gloss chrome job but that's just me.

On a related note, if anyone has hints on how to create a realistic NMF finish, I'd love to know what the tricks are. I've tried to do this using flat aluminum paint, with some white / grey added but it just doesn't look right.

Regards,

John

Link to post
Share on other sites
However, cold war century series jets can be a whole other matter.

Not in any way germane to this thread, but THANK YOU for using proper English! "A whole 'nother" drives me effing NUTS! :)

Edited by Jennings
Link to post
Share on other sites

A pet peeve of mine are some of the waaay overdone natural metal finishes I've seen on a good number of models lately. Many of these are P-51 / P-47's that are adorned with all the mission / kill markings of a hardworked veteran but are finished in an almost chrome-like, pristine metallic finish. On top of that, they might have a bit of token exhaust staining but that is it for weathering. I think that these finishes are completely unrealistic for a WW2 combat aircraft (for that matter, Korean era as well). The only time I've ever seen finishes even close to those are on modern warbirds where the owner flies the aircraft a few hours per month (in clear weather only) and the aircraft is then immediately stored in an enclosed hanger, to be waxed and buffed on a routine basis.

While net surfing tonight, I came across a great picture that illustrates how a combat aircraft actually looked:

http://jetpilotoverseas.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/136289006-02bg5aqm-adsc_7314x.jpg

To be honest, I'm not 100% sure on whether Korean F-51's were natural metal or painted overall aluminum but regardless, this picture does a great job of illustrating how dirty and worn out a true combat veteran looked, as opposed to some of the toy-like models I've seen. Obviously, every one should build to please themselves but IMO, it just seems a bit silly to build a kit of a Mustang that was in constant combat for months and then paint it with a mirror-like chrome finish. I'm guessing that even when they rolled off the factory floor, these planes didn't have that level of gloss to them. Personally, I think it takes more work to replicate a true, weathered NMF finish than any high gloss chrome job but that's just me.

On a related note, if anyone has hints on how to create a realistic NMF finish, I'd love to know what the tricks are. I've tried to do this using flat aluminum paint, with some white / grey added but it just doesn't look right.

Regards,

John

Great photo, and I completely agree.

A battered NMF is actually one of my favorite effects to replicate; partly because I find it easy to get a range of effects although, I'm by no means an expert... these are things just found and tried over time. There are a couple of different approaches. first is to use silver rub & buff applied over an area with a dry brush. It gives a great distressed effect. I used it on this Canberra B.6.

4B21.jpg

The next effect that I really like is to use is a heavy oil wash over the entire surface, not just the panel lines. This usually takes the shine over the metal and gives it a more realistic effect, like the underside of this Gloster Javelin ( ignore the terrible panel lines, they were rescribed in a night.)

4B30.jpg

The final one, which is the most likely to give the outcome like the photo is to use a semi-matte gray (instead of the usual black) primer underneath Alclad. It changes the composition of the metallic sheen, dulling it significantly, like on this semi-completed CMR P-51H.

4B32.jpg

Hope that gives you some ideas.

Edited by -Neu-
Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree, and an additional pet peeve of mine is the highly polished chrome like look on restored warbirds that also have markings depicting actual combat aircraft. Shot, they weren't even that shiny right off the assembly line!

Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree in principle (or is it principal?). My general preference is toward a more realistic, weathered appearance for all of my models, NMF or otherwise. In that spirit, I find it annoying when national insignia or other markings are pristine on a weathered and dirty airframe. I wish the decal manufacturers would produce at the very least national insignia that show evidence of fading and wear. Ditto for RBF flags.

But as you said, 11bee, some modelers prefer a "factory fresh" appearance to their models. And that's cool. It would be boring to see only models that were as weathered as the outstanding P-51 shown above.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well dont cick on the link for my B-25 then :whistle:

I know there aircraft where well weathered but on my shelf i like them looking like this plus my weathering skills kinda suck(im working on making them better)

Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree in principle (or is it principal?). My general preference is toward a more realistic, weathered appearance for all of my models, NMF or otherwise. In that spirit, I find it annoying when national insignia or other markings are pristine on a weathered and dirty airframe. I wish the decal manufacturers would produce at the very least national insignia that show evidence of fading and wear. Ditto for RBF flags.

But as you said, 11bee, some modelers prefer a "factory fresh" appearance to their models. And that's cool. It would be boring to see only models that were as weathered as the outstanding P-51 shown above.

Yeah, toning down the brightness of decals is fairly straight-forward on a painted surface. I hit them with a very thin spray of the base color to blend them in a bit, and then move on to weathering. I'm not sure how you would go about achieving a similar effect on a NMF. I'd love to know if anyone has a solution to that issue.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, toning down the brightness of decals is fairly straight-forward on a painted surface. I hit them with a very thin spray of the base color to blend them in a bit, and then move on to weathering. I'm not sure how you would go about achieving a similar effect on a NMF. I'd love to know if anyone has a solution to that issue.

On NMF models I apply a "filter" (to use the armour modelling term) of a greyish brown over the decals. I'll fill my airbrush cup about 2/3 with pure rubbing alcohol, dip a paintbrush in Tamiya dark grey, clean it in the airbrush cup and repeat with Tamiya brown. I'll then spray the resulting mix over the decals in a fairly tight pattern (but not too concerned about overspray) over the decals. I also use the same mix for random post shading, dirt and streaks to break up the uniformity of the NMF. In addition, I'll use MiG pigments applied with a damp Q-tip and manipulated with both moist (water, that is) and dry paintbrushes.

For the NMF its self, I use Alcad Polished Aluminum misted over Alclad Aluminum, which has been applied over buffed out (max 2000 grit - any more is unnecessary) Mr. Surfacer 1000.

IMG_1607.jpg

IMG_7236.jpg

Cheers,

Tony

Link to post
Share on other sites

On NMF models I apply a "filter" (to use the armour modelling term) of a greyish brown over the decals. I'll fill my airbrush cup about 2/3 with pure rubbing alcohol, dip a paintbrush in Tamiya dark grey, clean it in the airbrush cup and repeat with Tamiya brown. I'll then spray the resulting mix over the decals in a fairly tight pattern (but not too concerned about overspray) over the decals. I also use the same mix for random post shading, dirt and streaks to break up the uniformity of the NMF. In addition, I'll use MiG pigments applied with a damp Q-tip and manipulated with both moist (water, that is) and dry paintbrushes.

For the NMF its self, I use Alcad Polished Aluminum misted over Alclad Aluminum, which has been applied over buffed out (max 2000 grit - any more is unnecessary) Mr. Surfacer 1000.

IMG_1607.jpg

IMG_7236.jpg

Cheers,

Tony

Amazing looking kits.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I dont have a problem with the bright shiny NMF builds, why should I? I didnt build them. Some times they are nice to see.

Tbell, the mustang and P-47 are beautiful!!!!

afspret, The restored warbirds look shiny/polished like that because they are a hell of alot more maintained than would ever be done in military service. Plus there is alot of money invested in them so the owners are not have them looking war weary. You wax your car dont you? Same thing. And the paint schemes that are on the planes usually have a back story to them, such as somebody involved with maint/operating the aircraft knows a veteran. And the airplane is painted after that veterans airplane.

Link to post
Share on other sites

There are some nice looking models posted here!

I agree that it's the builder's choice and some of the chrome jobs I've seen are definitely impressive and required a good deal of skill to achieve. I guess the bottom line is what is a "realistic" model? If you want to replicate a realistic combat veteran P-51, B-17, P-47 or whatever, a shiny, high chrome finish doesn't cut it. Nice to look at but not a true replica of a combat aircraft.

I'm curious on one thing - I'm not a a model show type of guy but I wonder how one of those chrome finishes would be judged? Would the builder get extra points for a nice shiny Mustang or would they detract points for a completely unrealistic finish?

Regardless, I look forward to trying out some of these techniques when I finally get around to building that new 1/32 Tamiya Mustang.

John

Link to post
Share on other sites

One interesting thing about that pic of the Korean war Mustang is how scratched up the markings are. You rarely see that on a model.

Also, maybe it's the old film but to me, the color of the bar on the national insignia is definitely more orange than red. Never seen decals with the the bar anything except standard red. I also like the scratched up paint work. Adds a nice touch to the overall effect.

I might have to try to replicate this....

Link to post
Share on other sites

There are some nice looking models posted here!

I agree that it's the builder's choice and some of the chrome jobs I've seen are definitely impressive and required a good deal of skill to achieve. I guess the bottom line is what is a "realistic" model? If you want to replicate a realistic combat veteran P-51, B-17, P-47 or whatever, a shiny, high chrome finish doesn't cut it. Nice to look at but not a true replica of a combat aircraft.

I'm curious on one thing - I'm not a a model show type of guy but I wonder how one of those chrome finishes would be judged? Would the builder get extra points for a nice shiny Mustang or would they detract points for a completely unrealistic finish?

Regardless, I look forward to trying out some of these techniques when I finally get around to building that new 1/32 Tamiya Mustang.

John

If it's being judged to IPMS rules, then the accuracy of the finish is not (or at least should not be) a factor. The quality and consistency of the finish are what the judges should be considering. The only way accuracy would be taken into account is if two entries are equivalent in every other aspect of workmanship.

Edited by tbell
Link to post
Share on other sites

In fairness to the modern restorations, there is pretty good photographic proof that the late interwar NMF aircraft were highly polished. There was a great deal of pride in aviation pre-WW2 and the crews had the time to provide this level of maintenance. It was also found polished and waxed aircraft were a little faster at a time a few mph was highly prized.

Under wartime conditions this level of detailing was not possible and by the time the US returned to a NMF late in the war that push for just a few more miles per hour was gone. US fighters were among the fastest in the world by 1944-45.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have to agree with everyones comments here and not just with the NMF aircraft but also mordern aircraft as well. Nowadays there are almost no signs of an aircraft that looks brand new unless it has been completly torn down and repainted like my home squadron's AV-8B's that are getting this new treatment awaiting replacement by the F-35 JSF.

I especially have a pet peve of anyone who puts either future or gloss coat over a wartime aircraft from this era and dont put dull coat on top of that to make the flatness of the paint scheme. Here is a picture of an F-14 i did for a coworker about 2 years ago. This personally is the way i like my aircraft to look. Used and abused like almost all Millitary aircraft are today.

6429328773_5093660790_z.jpg

0221100057b by Devilleader501, on Flickr

Link to post
Share on other sites

On NMF models I apply a "filter" (to use the armour modelling term) of a greyish brown over the decals. I'll fill my airbrush cup about 2/3 with pure rubbing alcohol, dip a paintbrush in Tamiya dark grey, clean it in the airbrush cup and repeat with Tamiya brown. I'll then spray the resulting mix over the decals in a fairly tight pattern (but not too concerned about overspray) over the decals. I also use the same mix for random post shading, dirt and streaks to break up the uniformity of the NMF. In addition, I'll use MiG pigments applied with a damp Q-tip and manipulated with both moist (water, that is) and dry paintbrushes.

For the NMF its self, I use Alcad Polished Aluminum misted over Alclad Aluminum, which has been applied over buffed out (max 2000 grit - any more is unnecessary) Mr. Surfacer 1000.

IMG_1607.jpg

IMG_7236.jpg

Cheers,

Tony

Thanks for the tips, I may try it one of these days. SPECTACULAR work, BTW!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...