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Shuttle Wars: Monogram vs Revell, Part 4


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Will you be using tile decals or scribbing/ carving the tiles onto the model? I used the method I mentioned as it gives a more realistic texture to the tile locations on the orbiter. I will say the belly tiles are the most time consuming to work with.

By the way, checkout my STS-107 stack. :)

On the Monogram ET, the cable tray that runs along the LH2 half is not accurate ,nor matches the cable tray for the LO2 tank. You will need some styrene strip for the new cable tray.

Edited by MarkD
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Your vids are interesting Gil. Thanx!

I'm curious about your use of 3 or 4 different glues. Now, by way of explanation, I'm more a novice to model building and am always looking to try new techniques.

Your use of Tube glue ... can I ask why? Then when you use the Thicker glue, for instance, on the wings and tail ... why not just use the Thicker glue than a dab of Tube glue, or spread the Tube glue all the way around the seam ,instead of the Thicker glue.

And will you be doing any scratchbuilding? ... like for instance, the drogue chute compartment at the base of the tail?

Thanx alot Gil for posting these vids ... keep 'em coming!

Pete

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Your vids are interesting Gil. Thanx!

I'm curious about your use of 3 or 4 different glues. Now, by way of explanation, I'm more a novice to model building and am always looking to try new techniques.

Your use of Tube glue ... can I ask why? Then when you use the Thicker glue, for instance, on the wings and tail ... why not just use the Thicker glue than a dab of Tube glue, or spread the Tube glue all the way around the seam ,instead of the Thicker glue.

And will you be doing any scratchbuilding? ... like for instance, the drogue chute compartment at the base of the tail?

Thanx alot Gil for posting these vids ... keep 'em coming!

Pete

Hi Pete,

Thanks for watching. The different glues are used because they have different properties and are suitable for different applications. I like to use the classic old Testors tube glue on locating pins or other joint areas before putting parts together. It dries very slowly, so you can kind of "tac weld" the parts together and you can still adjust and align them. After that I will typically use the Tamiya Extra Thin around the perimeter of the part. It dries quick but not so quick that you can't do some final adjustments. If the parts have a significant amount flat surface mating area, I will use the Tamiya regular... the stuff in the orange topped bottle on the mating areas before joining. It is thicker and dries more slowly, allowing you to get the cement where you need it and get the parts mated before it dries out. The really thin hot glues, like Tenax and others like it, are useful if you need a bit of strength right away. The Plastruct glue is a strong solvent and will attack anything it touches. I use it on joints where a lot of strength is needed.

I will do a video on glues and putties in the near future and explain it all. There are lots of ways to do things. I just show folks what works for me. I enjoy doing the videos as they kind of come naturally for me (I am an aerospace teacher and flight instructor by trade). If people thought I sucked at doing them I would stop, but so far the feedback has been positive. I think this is week four and we are already up to almost 1800 views. We are not in danger of taking over YouTube or anything, but for a small specialty production, that ain't bad. I think that the connection to the dutycat.com webpage and blog have been helpful as well. People know who I am and have seen my work.

On the scratch building; I have got a few enhancement ideas and will correct a few obvious kit shortcomings. However, my goal here is not to make it everything gnats *$$ accurate, but to represent the shuttle with quality builds. I am still doing research and will decide what enhancements to make as the two builds proceed.

r/Gil

Edited by DutyCat
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Will you be using tile decals or scribbing/ carving the tiles onto the model? I used the method I mentioned as it gives a more realistic texture to the tile locations on the orbiter. I will say the belly tiles are the most time consuming to work with.

By the way, checkout my STS-107 stack. :)

On the Monogram ET, the cable tray that runs along the LH2 half is not accurate ,nor matches the cable tray for the LO2 tank. You will need some styrene strip for the new cable tray.

Mark,

I meant to reply to you earlier. No, I will not be scribbing the tiles. On the Revell orbiter, I will use what comes with the kit. Even if they are oversize, they will look great when I am done with them, and as I said to Pete, we are representing the Space Shuttle, not OCDing every little thing as folks who are into hyper accuracy prefer(tile laminate, cloth tape for thermal blanket fabric, etc the list goes on). On the Monogram, will use decals for the tiles, but I have a new technique I am going to try for the blanket areas. I am not ready to disclose that yet.

r/Gil

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