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Future and Tamiya X-20A, or Simple Green?


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Ok, I have tried Future a coupla times with poor results. If I mist it on, it gives a slight orange peel effect. If I put it on wet, it runs very easily. It does not appear to level well when sprayed on wet either, at least while it is still wet.

Anyone tried Tamiya X-20 or Simple Green with this stuff? Is there an idiot proof method? I have tried straight, thinned with alcohol, and thinned with Windex, and various air pressures. Nada.

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I hve never done the brush on butbi hear people have good results. I usualy do 1 to 3 simple green future but its mainly for high gloss schemes. What airbrush are you using? I cant tell you i never had good respults on my old suction pashe. It was only whn i switched to gravety fed iwata that i got it right.

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I'd be wary of using Simple Green as a thinner, as it is a surfactant cleaner. Not saying it wouldn't work, and a few drops as an inexpensive flow aid probably won't hurt, but I'd be concerned for a long term effect. Besides, it's green.

When I've had this problem, I've added a small amount of flow aid or retarder to straight Future. That solved the problem. I do know that when airbrushing, the conditions (temperature and especially humidity) are critical, as are getting the flow rate and distance right. You also need to finish one area (just wet looking) rather than mist on multiple coats, at least that's what works for meâ€â€I've read otherwise.

Another thing, which applies to all clear coats: getting the illumination right helps enormously to see how much you have on the surface. I find that rather than uniform lighting, having the light come to the model surface from the side (raking illumination) helps you see the clear coat on the surface.

Brushing it on results in a heavier coat, but it flows out better. Considering what the product is made for, that makes sense. Nobody airbrushes their floors.

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I use it thinned with Windex all the time and haven't had an issue. I just add a tiny bit of Windex to an alomost full airbrush cup of Future. I get a nice smooth coat with this combo.

Rob

Edited by TOPGUN
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I always use Tamiya X-22 (Gloss Clear), thinned with either denatured alcohol or Tamiya X-20A thinner, then airbrushed. Fantastic result every time! :thumbsup:

Edited by Mike C
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Not to highjack the thread but I have a Future question. If after you airbrush it on and you have some "puddles" that have dried, what's the best way to fix this?

I've had success hand brushing them out with more Future, or with 90% isopropyl alcohol with a little retarder. You can also wait 48 hours (full cure) sand them down (600-800 grit, gently), and recoat.

The best way to avoid these is to set up your lighting so that it rakes the surface at a shallow angle. The idea is to produce glare where the surface is wet with the coating. This works for any clear coat, high gloss to dead flat.

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I've had success hand brushing them out with more Future, or with 90% isopropyl alcohol with a little retarder. You can also wait 48 hours (full cure) sand them down (600-800 grit, gently), and recoat.

The best way to avoid these is to set up your lighting so that it rakes the surface at a shallow angle. The idea is to produce glare where the surface is wet with the coating. This works for any clear coat, high gloss to dead flat.

Thanks for the tips Triarius. :thumbsup:

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Not to highjack the thread but I have a Future question. If after you airbrush it on and you have some "puddles" that have dried, what's the best way to fix this?

Wolf - quick answers. A) if you can soak the part in Windex overnight, that will eat the Future off the part. B) Rubbing pure amonia over the area (if you can't soak in Windex), with a q-tip should remove the Future.

Good luck.

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Slightly off topic but since it concerns Simple Green and includes a caution ...

Several months ago I bought the brush cleaning glass jar MicroMark sells that has coiled aluminium or some lightweight alloy to rub your brush across facilitating cleaning. Since I use acrylics, and since Simple Green workd great to clean airbrushes and regular brushes that have been used with acrylics, I filled the jar with Simple Green (about 1 inch). Withing a couple of days I observed whitish blobs in the jar that didn't want to break-up when I cleaned a brush. A couple of months go by, and I discovered the coil had been largely disolved by the Simple Green...

Edited by Chuck1945
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