Eric F Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 (edited) I'm still working on my F-16 DJ but just to wait a little bit, I start a new topic probably already known by some of you. But this time Iwill insist on the tips for each steps of the built. First the complete model: I added all lot of improvements on the kit especially in the cargo, for the windows and windshield which had been made in plexiglass. I will show you as well how to correct an issue on the main landing gear. The mould add been designed according to the Aerospaciale manufacturer technical plan. This is why this scale model is very accurate in dimensions. Now let's start with preparation of the fuselage and next, the cargo and the cockpit detailling. The cargo Hold the line, more updates this week end. Eric Edited February 17, 2012 by Eric F Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mario krijan Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Fantastic work! Please post more photos, i have this kit in my closer future! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sean Bratton Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 That interior looks amazing, Eric! Can you tell us little more about your foil technique, especially how you adhere the foil to the sidewalls? Cheers, Sean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flight 666 Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Cool Trall you made. I love the Trall and there is a box in my stash. I´ll keep an eye on your build. Keep on going that good work !! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nicely11b Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 That interior looks great. Well done so far! Keep up the good work Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric F Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 That interior looks amazing, Eric! Can you tell us little more about your foil technique, especially how you adhere the foil to the sidewalls? Cheers, Sean Hi Sean, It is adhesive foil, and the bulges underneath are made with plastic card. Eric Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric F Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 The rest of the pics for the cargo: The benches are in pewter sheet The forward bukhead: The left side wall. Note: on the french Transall the side cargo door were not used. Aft of the bulhead 40, the area familiarly called by the crew, the "church" Around 400 stiffeners had added! Eric Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cosmo Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 That's some amazing work you've done there!. I have one of these kits so i will be watching this build with great interest. Keep up the excellent work. Mike. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric F Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 We can notice that I modified the kit to represent the side doors opened. To do so, I had to disregard the logic of the assembly instructions. They recommend to attach all the components of the crago (floor, roof and side walls) together first and then put it in between the two half fuselage. As far as we are concerned, we have to glue each side wall to its associated half fuselage with the cargo floor and one side, witchever. It is to make sure that the side wall will coincide with the opening on the fuselage. The result is perfect because the kit had been very well designed. The RH side: Another view of the LH side: The nose wheel well: The color is normally zinchromate even if the picture is tends to the green: With the nose landing gear in: The rest tomorrow Bye Eric Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric F Posted February 18, 2012 Author Share Posted February 18, 2012 (edited) Hello, Today we resume this in-progress built with the landing gears: The main cargo door: Some add-on in 0.13 and 0.4 mm Evergreen Edited February 18, 2012 by Eric F Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric F Posted February 18, 2012 Author Share Posted February 18, 2012 (edited) The propellers: They are very nice. But to make them nicer, I sanded all the leading and trailing edges. It is important to spend some time on that kind of details. This make the difference on the final result. Your scale model looks like more than a real thing than a plastic kit. I usually do the same for the wing, elevators and fin. Just have a look on my M2000D and compare the wing with the original one out of the box. I painted them in Alclad white metal. Then, I sprayed the yellow shaded whith some white. Look at the effect on the leading edge of the blades. It is done with the airbrush by not sparying perpendicular to the blades, but from the trailing edge to the leading edge. The final result: See you soon Eric Edited February 18, 2012 by Eric F Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Awesome! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric F Posted February 18, 2012 Author Share Posted February 18, 2012 The cockpit: The instrument panel and overhead panel are the kit decals on which I added some knobs and switches: On that pic we can see what we are going to explain shortly after: how to maque the windows in plexiglass. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flight 666 Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Hmmmmm I miss something .......... The start button. You have to fix it on the table, so it can´t fly away. WOW You show me what I have to learn about modelling. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mario krijan Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 I just wet myself!!! Great work! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric F Posted February 18, 2012 Author Share Posted February 18, 2012 (edited) The two half fuselage are attached: The crew entry door is scratch-built for better detailing: The APU exhaust: This picture shows you the good angle between the landing gear and the fairing. Is not, your aircraft will have the tendency to be noose down. The engine nacelle: As for the trailing edge, the exhaust is sanded to be as thinner as possible: The speed brakes: all the holes are drilled deeper with a 0.3 mm drill. Of course to be done manually between two fingers. We have exactly the same number as he real thing. Edited February 18, 2012 by Eric F Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JesniF-16 Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Holy crap that's nice We're not worthy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 That´s some serious AMS!!! Fabulous! :worship: Think I´ll return to my Lego now Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric F Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share Posted February 19, 2012 Today, I show how to make and adjust plexiglass windscreens ans windows. First, I wanted the cockpit beeing visible from outside. Yhe only solution was to open the sliding windows. But I rapidly faced an issue: the depth of the kit cristal part. So that leaded me to make them in 0.5 mm plexiglass, the same that had been used for the M2000D canopies. To make them is not so difficult concerning the adjustments. You can notice that, except the center front windshield, the others are in contact with the fuselage on only 3 sides. The process is the following: First we position the center front windscreen. This part is important because it will adjust the pitch of the dome over the cockpit, and as a result the hight of all other windows. Then we cut all the windows from the plexiglass sheet: Do not forgot the sliding windows; to be attached at first: Small details, the curtains: Next step we glue the dome: Then, dry check for all the other windows: And we can start the adjustment with putty by taking care of protecting the window with tage: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 :blink: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric F Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share Posted February 19, 2012 (edited) For the finish, I use some Tamiya extra fluid glue that I melt directly in the Tamiya putty tube. I melt them and immediately put the cement on the model with the brush. This time, I use Frisket instead of Tamiya tape to have a thinner joint. I made a specific tool for that step. I guled a small surface of sand paper on a small piece of Evergreen: And we repeat the process as long as we need: Finally the result optained: The rest by the end of the week-end. Eric Edited February 19, 2012 by Eric F Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric F Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share Posted February 19, 2012 The model almost ready for paint: We can notice that I filled the holes giving access to the wing fairings. They really are too deep for that scale. I replaced them by plastic card ans I made a size to re-scribe them again after the painting phase: Making the taxi and landing lights: As for the windows, we protect the clear part: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric F Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share Posted February 19, 2012 The painting phase First we spray a primer (Gunze acrilic) with a neutral color close the camouflge. We correct all the defaults and so and so until a pefect finish. The camouflge before weathering: In the net post we'll have a long list of photos from various angles and lights. Eric Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hajo L. Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 Eric, simply wonderful! A great model, and very well explained the way you built it! How many days/weeks did you spent on this beauty? HAJO Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric F Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share Posted February 19, 2012 (edited) Eric, simply wonderful! A great model, and very well explained the way you built it! How many days/weeks did you spent on this beauty? HAJO Thanks HAJO, As far as I remember, I spent around four month. Eric Edited February 19, 2012 by Eric F Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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