RF-4C 1/32 Revell kit

[ghatherly]

Hi, I want to introduce myself, my name is Gary, I am new here and really impressed with the work being done. I just read in detail Chuck' F-4E build, and between him, Scott, and a couple of others am blown away. I want to get better, and so I am exposing myself here looking for feedback to make better models, so please be honest and not rip me too badly. Can someone please give me the steps to upload pictures to the site?

Thanks

Gary

Edited March 15, 2012 by ghatherly

[Pete]

Hi Gary,

I agree, some people here are able to create beautiful models.

To post photo's here on ARC, you first need to upload to a hosting site. There are several; Imageshack and Photobucket are two well knows sites. Once you have uploaded the pictures you want to post, you can copy/paste the link in your post. The posted link should appear between (without the spaces between the g and the ]).

Good luck, and if it doesn't work out, let us know, we'll try to explain it better. ;)

[ghatherly]

s1048.photobucket.com/albums/s364/ghatherly/[/media]

Ok Pete....Help? I set up a photo bucket account. Do I use insert image or media icon to insert.

thanks,

gary

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s364/ghatherly/Picture202.jpg

Edited March 15, 2012 by ghatherly

[Bigasshammm]

s1048.photobucket.com/albums/s364/ghatherly/[/media]

Ok Pete....Help? I set up a photo bucket account. Do I use insert image or media icon to insert.

thanks,

gary

You can do one of two ways. You can use the insert image button on here and then copy the direct link to the image and paste it in the box. Or on photobucket it gives you the IMG code underneath the direct link and other links it gives you. You can copy the IMG code and just directly paste that anywhere in your text and the photo will appear.

[Pete]

What I find the easiest is just click the right link with your photobucket image:

In your album, there are 4 links with each image, if you click on the bottom one, it will copy the link automatically to your PC clipboard. Then you go your post here, right click, select past, and there's your image link.

Here are some screenshots to help you out from my album:

First one, with the image I want to post. Notice the four links on the right. If you're in your album, they are displayed under the thumbnail image when you move your cursor on it. Click the bottom one.

It will briefly highlight as "Copied"

Then if you paste the link here, it should look like the bits between

And the image I selected shows then as this:

Good Luck!

[ghatherly]

Thanks Guys, I think I got it. The link in the Cockpit when I was building it, Na the canopy picture was one attempt to make the canopies the right size, and the rear is 4mm to long and the front 4mm to short. Here are a few more from about a month ago. I am going to try thee

Blow the flare box, I built one on each side. Details to come later

Some work done on the Recce bay structure.

Better picture of canopy modes, along with the Tamiya intake and the open Recce side panel.

I think I got the hang of this.

Thanks again

[ghatherly]

I kind of like this now that I know how to post pictures. IS this in the right forum spot?

Here is the cockpit installed about 75% done.

And here is more work on the canopies. Once the length was right, I added the frame using Evergreen and PE parts, still along ways to go. I like how Chuck put it in making every little part a model unto itself.

Edited March 15, 2012 by ghatherly

[Pete]

Yup, this is the right place for posting pogress pics of your build. It's looking mighty fine, too!

[Sebastijan]

welcome to the forums! This is some stunning work! Keep up the good work!

[ghatherly]

Thanks guys! Here are some pics of where it is at as of tonight. I am 90% done with the scribing, riveting, and getting the exterior in order. I installed the wing tonight, so hope fully in the next 2-3 week I can complete the exterior, wrap up the wheel wells, speed brakes, chute pack, control surfaces, and complete the nose fix. I spent almost a week getting the inflight refueling door the correct size and in the correct spot, along with the com light forward the door. I also like to use CA glue as filler, so you can see my screw ups. They are in black, where the correct door is in red. The other area is the nose cone is 4mm to short and is missing the fairing on the bottom that fits with the camera bay 1 door when closed.

[Scott R Wilson]

Thanks guys! Here are some pics of where it is at as of tonight. I am 90% done with the scribing, riveting, and getting the exterior in order. I installed the wing tonight, so hope fully in the next 2-3 week I can complete the exterior, wrap up the wheel wells, speed brakes, chute pack, control surfaces, and complete the nose fix. I spent almost a week getting the inflight refueling door the correct size and in the correct spot, along with the com light forward the door. I also like to use CA glue as filler, so you can see my screw ups. They are in black, where the correct door is in red. The other area is the nose cone is 4mm to short and is missing the fairing on the bottom that fits with the camera bay 1 door when closed.

You are doing some incredible work! I can't wait to see how this one come out at the end of your build! One minor detail you might want to know: the air refuel lights (two little red dots in your photo above) on the circular panel in front of the air refuel door aren't on the RF-4C. Those were only on the F-4E/F/G. On the real fighters those lights were flush with the panel, and sometimes got painted over by depot.

You might already know, but the locator holes Revell put in the wing for the inboard wing pylons are slightly in the wrong position. The rear of the pylon should line up with the rib in the wheel well. The sway braces on the pylon cover up the holes when the pylons are in the correct position so Revell wasn't off by much.

It looks like you are going to lower the leading edge wing flaps. On RF-4Cs the inboard flap by the fuselage also lowers. I'll post a photo this afternoon when I get home from work if you need it.

I'm amazed by your camera bay work. If there's anything else I can help you with let me know.

Scott W.

Edited March 16, 2012 by Scott R Wilson

[jmel]

Outstanding work!! It's not often an RF-4C in 1/32 is built, and almost never are the kit's errors addressed. I can't wait to watch this come together.

Nice choice of ref mateial, too! :D

Jake

[ghatherly]

Hi Jake, I had the F-15 and F-4 books of yours, and my kids got me the rest of your books( that you had in stock) for Christmas. Looking forward to the new Hog book. IS ther any chance of getting some more foreign user info in the next eagle book. I am doing an IAF F-15D next and I am really finding a hard time getting data on the Israeli fast packs.

Thanks for the support.

[jmel]

IS ther any chance of getting some more foreign user info in the next eagle book. I am doing an IAF F-15D next and I am really finding a hard time getting data on the Israeli fast packs.

That's the plan. I shot the ROKAF and Saudi Eagles last month, and am going to Japan next month. Hopefully the result will be a more thorough look at export versions, to replace the somewhat limited coverage in the first release.

Now get back to work on the RF-4!!!

Jake

[ghatherly]

Here are more pictures that I found. Scott, Thanks for the input. This is the kind of help I need. I was going to use a colored clear in the holes for the fueling lights, but now I will fill them in. I did know about the flaps either, so I will make that change. Please post any pics that can help, I would love to see them. It will actually help me because there is a gap to full using the Tamiya intakes with he revell kit to fill, So that will make things easier to build. I have had a heard time finding details on certain aspects of the recce birds. I have posted some pictures of the early stages of the nose section. As I bought more books and located more info on the net I have had to make changes, like removing the side camera mounts that revell added to the roof of the recce bay. What I really need to do for the next one is lean to do custom PE and set up a small system so I can make the locks and other fine details that are in the recce bay. I actually found a site that has old retired IAF Phantoms and that has really been help full, but it is the E, which I don't know how different they are from the C. I will try to get some current recce bay shots this week.

I also included a couple of shots of attaching Rhino intakes to the revell kit, as that is what I will use from now on. With minor changed to the rhino, and some plastic removal from the revell kit they fit very well. Also Is a pic of my latest clean out of the exhaust vents that I have had to rebuild twice on the RF-4 because of screw ups.

I really appreciate the help and input

[Pete]

Excellent stuff so far!

Got a question. Why are you using the Tamiya intakes on the Revell kit? Are the Revell ones badly shaped? I built the Revell kit 10 years ago (still have it) and I don't see it, except the lack of detail on the inside of course.

BTW, those Rhino intakes might look good, but apparently they are pirated copies of the Dmold intakes. There was quite some discussion about this a while ago.

[ghatherly]

Hi Pete,

I used the tamiya because the detail is much better and they have a complete intake tract to the fan. The Revell is really weak in the bypass venting and has no internal structure. You cannot get the correct curve in the intake just using plastic sheet if you scratch build intakes. What I did is use .010 thin sheeting in layers so that I didn't have to use putty and sand forever. It actually looks quite good as the real intakes are full of rivet and panel lines. If I had a descent camera I would show you this, later on when I get a new camera I will show this.

I can say for a fact, that having had the Cutting Edge, Dmold, and Rhino next to each other, they are not the same and the Rhino is not a copy of Dmold or any other product. The guy from Sierra Hotel may have an issue with the S-3 fans, as I have not used these and cannot say he may be right with those, but he is wrong here. If anything, the Rhino is based upon Tamiya parts made to work with a resin casting process. They even have the tabs on the inside to secure the intakes to the fuselage just like the kit part. Dmolds are lighter and the white color is a different white. Dmold has a large lip around the fan opening. Dmold intakes are really just copies of CE intakes with a heavy band around the fan location.

I also am not looking to ruffle any feathers, life is too short. But you did ask. In ending this I would like to say that I have used both products, and like both, Rhino is my favorite and my 1st choice. I believe Rhino the better product, and being American I like to buy American when I can. There is room for both. All I was trying to do is give the Revell kit folks some options, and the Dmolds could just as easily work as well.

Later, Gary

Now back to modeling!!!!!

EDITED: No one has kicked or screamed me, but after I read Pete's response, I felt like I needed to search further and came upon Chuck's article about Copied F-18 parts that I was not aware of. I agree with Chuck as he shows with facts that with the F-18 exhaust and intakes were copied, so I have changed my position on Rhino. I do though stand behind my conclusion with the F-4 intakes that they are not copies, but where does that leave Demitri with Dmold and his product being copied CE, now out of business?

Edited March 19, 2012 by ghatherly

[Pete]

Fair enough, your model, your choice. It's not my job to tell you what to use, and what not. There's probably quite a grey area when it comes to aftermarket stuff anyway.

Back to modelling indeed, time to remove the masks on my Phantom, always exciting :)

[ghatherly]

Hey Pete, yes indeed. I think there is a grey area too. I is just a hobby and to be enjoyed. I do appreciate your looking out for me though and hope my response was not to harsh or pointed. The last thing I want to do is upset someone when we are here to have fun and enjoy modeling. I was too serious for too many years to carry that into retirement. Hope there is no hard feelings.

Gary

Back to the eye candy. Whatever you use in the Revell kit for intakes, I find that it is easiest to remove the entire false bottom of the fuselage to get the intake and exhaust installed.

this is for Scott:

Open tail vents and installation of the Flight Path PE panels and exhaust. I am not completely happy with the exhaust but it is too lat now.

[ghatherly]

Found two descent intake shots:

[jmel]

This is just outstanding!! Can you describe the process to use the Tamiya-sized intakes on the Revell kit? I'd never thought of that, and that will change the overall shape of the Revell kit drastically for the better.

Jake

[Scott R Wilson]

I don't have a large number of detail shots of a recce, but here's a few I took over the years that you might find useful:

[ghatherly]

This is just outstanding!! Can you describe the process to use the Tamiya-sized intakes on the Revell kit? I'd never thought of that, and that will change the overall shape of the Revell kit drastically for the better.

Jake

Thanks for the kind words Jake. I enjoy building models in making them as much like miniatures of the real jet as possible, and to make a jet with out intakes is just wrong!!!!!! I started this with the idea of it being practice for building a Tamiya kit into a Recce. I had the Tamiya parts left over,from using resin intakes on a tamiya kit, and came up with this idea after looking at the real intake pictures in books and on some Museum jets. Using paper I made some templates and then used .010 sheet evergreen after getting the templates figured out. I start at the back and over lap as I work to the front of the intake. The back intake side that is to the inside of the jet by the fan is not visible anyway, so I ignore this are to simplify installation of the sheet plastic. CA glue is a must, as the sheet plastic is so thin that plastic glue will melt it and screw everything up. I then modify the Revel intake ramp by trimming it to fit the T intake. I then fix the back side of the ramp that faces the nose section, which needs the back filled in with sheet plastic where it attaches to the side of the fuselage. I have some pic here of the fuselage mods for the main fuselage and the intakes ready to attach. I will get pic of the forward fuselage and the modified ramps and post later today.

Edited March 19, 2012 by ghatherly

[ghatherly]

I don't have a large number of detail shots of a recce, but here's a few I took over the years that you might find useful:

Thanks Scott!!! These are perfect and really helpful, especially the rear fuselage where there are no sparrow channels. I am fixing the leading edge flaps today and finishing up the fuselage and wing repairs so I can shoot primer later in the week.

Gary

[ghatherly]

Here are some pictures of the leading edge flap corrections and the fix the the nose cone.

I test fit the wing pylons and discovered another kit error in the leading edge on the wing behind the inboard flap. The picture above shows the repair I made to the leading edge. I am having to scratch build the inner flap details and the flaps themselves. This will take time I had not anticipated. Thanks Scott!!!!LOL