spaceman Posted April 26, 2022 Author Share Posted April 26, 2022 (edited) Hello everybody, since I also came across some drawings with detailed views of the sides of the canister in part of the documentation Orbiter Payload Canisters (HEAR NO. FL-8-11-I), I decided without further ado to abandon my previous plan of gluing the coherent sleeve (Paper kit) and instead to create detailed Sides separately and glue them onto the Balsa framework of the canister. Now that I know where the details go, I can choose which ones to scratch and save a lot of drawing work. Before I'll try printing the parts on an Evergreen Sheet Styrene (0,13mm) I will first print them out on paper to be able to check the fit of the parts on the framework. The first thing I did was to determine the semi-circular outline of the Payload Bay Doors to be able to glue the curved covering of the canister later onto the side walls and the inner Supporting walls at the Forward & Aft Bulkheads. To do this, I fixed again a thin brass wire closely around the curve of a supporting wall with magnets in order to be able to determine the length for the flat pattern of the contour, which is the simplest solution. And this is what the flat pattern looks like. It is approx. 50 mm long, so the part for the doors should have dimensions of 120 mm x 50 mm, making the semicircular PLC doors. Based on the drawings, I was able to reconstruct the doors of the canister from the top and side views, which was not that easy, since e.g. the position of the semicircular brackets of the Door Actuators of both doors had to be projected into the plane. Source: NASA Conference Publication 2342 Part 2 (M. E. Donahue) When preparing the parts, I first retouched away all those details of the drawings that are outside the canister shell, such as ladders, railings, cables, etc., so as not to see them twice afterwards, and have only marked their base points. And this is how the finished flat pattern of the doors now looks like, that I printed out on paper and cut out, then have rolled in, and rolled it out again after a while. The test fitting of the doors on the canister looked nearly perfect and made me quite confident about the further procedure. This includes further drawings, such as the Forward & Aft Bulkheads, but again without the ladders and railings located there, as well as the Port Side & Starboard Side with the remaining parts of the Door Actuator systems, whose Actuator Screw Jackets were removed again, as well as the ladders too. And of course the Bottom of the canister must not be missing (below). So far for today, tomorrow is still another day too. Edited April 26, 2022 by spaceman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted April 28, 2022 Author Share Posted April 28, 2022 (edited) Hello everybody, today I started with the structural work of the Payload Canister and first glued the two side walls with the bottom. In doing so it was important to ensure that the walls were vertical, flush with the floor and couldn't slip, which is why I clamped them in using my proven Magnetic clamping Technique. Then I glued the Forward and Aft Bulkheads on both sides. To stabilize both sides in the longitudinal direction and to later support the thin Payload Bay Doors (0,13 mm), I've also intended a spacer bar (2 mm x 4 mm x 120 mm) made of Balsa, which was temporarily held by the supporting walls during the gluing and acted as a spacer, for which I had cut out a corresponding recess from the two supporting walls. After checking that the previously glued parts were correctly seated, I then glued both supporting walls from the inside onto the front and back and fixed them with clips, and glued in the spacer bar. This completed the structural work of the canister, and I was able to try on the doors, which matched again, as did the cover of the Forward Bulkhead. At this point it should be mentioned briefly that the Canisters were labeled with same designations as the Orbiter: the Starboard Side (right), and the Port Side (left). In order to get an overall impression, I have now also covered the walls all around, here with a view of the Port Side and the Forward Bulkhead, and here a view of the Starboard Side and the Aft Bulkhead with the Spike. Well, and then I was curious and of course I wanted to see what the Canister looks like on the Transporter, and here it is, even if only as a provisional arrangement, here with a view of the Port Side, and on the Starboard Side. And this is the view of the transporter approaching the Launch pad with upright standing canister. As an interim conclusion, it can be said that the images are promising despite the still unfinished state of the canister and encourage me to continue, although there is still a lot to do before final completion the Sheet Styrene version, but it is after all a decent result. Edited April 28, 2022 by spaceman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crowe-t Posted April 29, 2022 Share Posted April 29, 2022 Manfred, This is beautifully done. Even unfinished it's looking the part. Mike. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted April 29, 2022 Author Share Posted April 29, 2022 (edited) Thanks Mike for your nice compliment, then I'm satisfied, shared happiness is double happiness. Edited April 29, 2022 by spaceman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted April 30, 2022 Author Share Posted April 30, 2022 (edited) Hello everybody, today, exceptionally just a short statement - so to speak, as a Word for Sunday. Unfortunately, I had to bury my hopes for the planned Sheet Styrene version today, because the printout of the prepared parts on the thin Evergreen Plastic Foil was a complete flop. Maybe that would work with a Laser printer, but certainly not with my Inkjet printer, because the color doesn't dry sufficiently and smudges with every touch. So I will use normal paper for the cladding of the Canister, then it fits better with the Transporter anyway, that's Trial & Error! And with that a good jump into the merry month of May. Edited April 30, 2022 by spaceman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
K2Pete Posted April 30, 2022 Share Posted April 30, 2022 Well, we can't accept this setback ... Manfred, when I make my own decals, my inkjet printer prints on Glossy Decal film. It would smear if I touched it, I'm sure. So I spray Clear Spray Paint on it. 2 or 3 very light coats and the decal film and printer Ink is therefore waterproof. This may work for you too, on the styrene. I usually let my ink dry for at least 24 hours, you may need to let it dry a little longer. And then after the spray, let it all dry for another 24 hours. I sure hope this helps. As usual, I am enjoying your thought process and journey! Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted May 1, 2022 Author Share Posted May 1, 2022 Thanks Pete for your encouraging words. I immediately thought of decal foil, but what was a fallacy. We must beware to compare apples to oranges, Evergreen Sheet Styrene is not a Decal Foil compatible with the ink, while Evergreen Styrene appears to be not. The color of the printout was pale and blurred, and the Evergreen Sheet is not A4 but narrower and was therefore drawn in at an angle rather than straight, so it was a total flop. Another possibility would be to print it out on decal foil, as you practice and have already described to me. But I'll stick to the printout on Paper now and refrain from further experiments. We'll see ... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted May 4, 2022 Author Share Posted May 4, 2022 (edited) Hello everybody, let's continue, and thus full concentration on the cladding of the Balsa shell with the side walls incl. Payload Bay Doors made of paper, wherefore I had to rethink something. Somehow I had to give the curved doors more support before gluing and make sure that they couldn't buckle anywhere that would then be impossible to correct. That's why I first increased the two Balsa side walls (H = 20 mm) by gluing on Balsa strips (2 mm), resulting in a adhesive edge for the door shell. Then I've thought that, for reasons of rigidity of this shell, it would be useful and also safer to use a Supporting roof of Styrene (0,13 mm), which would then provide sufficient support and stability when gluing the paper doors. So I've immediately looked for a suitable core (Ø approx. 35 mm) for the Thermal curvature of the door cover, for which a kitchen roll aluminum foil has offered itself, onto which I glued the Styrene sheet. Since the usual hot air gun did not seem suitable for evenly heating the sheet, I filled my kettle without further ado, heated the water strongly and dived the roll with the shell for a while in the hope that the curvature would set in, just like in my hitherto always successful Balsa bending tests of various plastic profiles at the SSWS. But things never turn out the way you expect ... To my surprise, the Styrene strip then relaxed back to its original shape, contrary to expectations, as if nothing had happened. I had to let this disappointment sink in first and had to further modify my solution in order to be able to glue the door cover. Since adhesive surfaces on the sides of the curves of the inner support walls would certainly be helpful for this, I've bent two arcs of an Evergreen strip (0,75 mm x 1 mm) using my Hot air gun and my Balsa bending technique. And as one can see, Evergreen Sheet Styrene and Evergreen Strip Styrene cannot be the same material. Apparently Evergreen Sheet Styrene, in contrast to the Strips, is a Duroplast that doesn't mind heat at all, which is why it retains its original shape. I then glued these arcs onto the support walls, and also still Evergreen angles (1,5 mm x 1,5 mm) on the side walls. And since this stubborn door roof cannot be glue in one step, I have to proceed step by step and initially only glued one side to the angle, fixed it accordingly and let it dry. However, since the strip was not yet completely glued in the middle, I've brushed it once again with Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) both on the outside and on the inside of the angle and glued it additionally. But now I'm pondering how best to glue the rest of the part ... With normal Plastic glue this will not work which would take time to set, so this method is ruled out. That's why the only thing that remains is to glue it with CA, although I'm considering first dabbing only half the curve of the three support walls with CA and then to pull the cover sheet across the curves and to hold it briefly, which should be enough to tie it off. Maybe a bit tricky matter, but what might work. Then the other half could follow. Edited May 4, 2022 by spaceman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted May 4, 2022 Author Share Posted May 4, 2022 (edited) Hello everybody, and that's exactly how I did it, and I can anticipate the result right away, it actually worked. After the first half of the Door sheet was glued onto the additional support arcs of the inner support walls with CA and also has kept, came the other half's turn, which I first held with great care and then has clamped once again to be on the safe side. And that's how I imagined the result, with which I'm very satisfied. Now the transitions can be smoothed out a bit and then the pre-bulged Paper roof of the Doors can be glued in peace, and then all the remaining sides. Edited May 4, 2022 by spaceman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaptKirk Posted May 5, 2022 Share Posted May 5, 2022 Looking good, Manfred. Nice kettle, by the way. Mine broke and no spare parts were available. Same with the toaster! 😞 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted May 5, 2022 Author Share Posted May 5, 2022 Thanks Mike for your nice comment, I'm trying to make my dreams come true, day by day ... It's simply my passion! Yep, my kettle is a great device, Made in Germany by SIEMENS! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted May 8, 2022 Author Share Posted May 8, 2022 (edited) Hello friends, but I can't get started with the cladding of the Balsa shell quite that quickly, because, as always, the correct and appropriate order is important, which I have to consider, so that the next steps cannot be hindered. Strength lies in calmness! That's why I thought it thoroughly again and came up with the following order. First, I'm going to cladd up the larger and smaller "ears" on the inside of the Forward and Aft Bulkheads. These are only tiny areas, but they first have to be glued before I can glue on the door cover. Therefore, next I've determined the lower contours for these small snippets by using a Support wall and have drawn them on Sheet Styrene (0,13 mm ), which I've split beforehand because of the easier handling when gluing. But since the foil is shiny, it wouldn't match the dull paper of the rest of the side panels, which is why I dulled it beforehand with Tamiya Sanding Sponge Sheet 2000. Then I've glued the halves with CA on the inside of the Forward Bulkhead and trimmed off the protruding parts, first on the left inner side, and then on the right inner side. The same procedure then followed on the Aft Bulkhead. Next I've cut out the Styrene strips (2 mm) for the top sides' curves of the Forward and Aft Bulkheads, which can now be adjusted and then glued step by step. Edited May 8, 2022 by spaceman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted May 14, 2022 Author Share Posted May 14, 2022 (edited) Hello everybody, after the tricky little "ears" were cut back, the strips could be glued with the UHU-CA, first one half of the rounding so that something could be corrected, and then the other half, which also worked quite well. Both strips were then smoothly sanded at the edges. Then the Front and Back were to be papered, initially using UHU Spray adhesive. But either the glue wasn't mixed thoroughly after it hadn't been used for a long time or it was too old, in any case I wasn't satisfied with the result because the paper was stained, which didn't go away even after drying. That's why I went back to my previous technique and spread a corresponding area of glue from the UHU-Nimble Bottle onto a piece of paper, briefly placed the front side cover on it and then glued it onto the front. It is important that one must hit the right position as quickly and precisely as possible, since the wetted paper can only be corrected for a short time. And this is what the Forward Bulkhead looks like, which is quite impressive. Don't worry, the front shouldn't remain so bare, of course, especially since the all-round papering of the canister is only the Compulsory exercise, so to speak, and the Voluntary exercise with a number of details still will follow. Here's already a little foretaste of the ladders and railings etc. that I'm looking forward to. Source: forum.nasaspaceflight.com (Ares67, STS-9) And the Back (Aft Bulkhead) with the Spike outline was papered in the same way. But before I turn to this Spike, I first wanted to paper the bottom of the canister, which I was a bit scared about because of the size. So that the gluing could go as quickly as possible, I carefully clamped the canister in a handy slanted position on the edge of the table. Then I quickly coated the previously marked area on the sheet of paper with glue, put the floor cover on briefly, then quickly removed it again, and immediately applied to the bottom with pinpoint accuracy, so that it only had to be readjusted slightly. Then I've cut the four small Horizontal Transportation Support Plates from Styrene (0,3 mm) for the bottom, and glued them on. And on the Back side (Aft Bulkhead) there are also four Vertical Transportation Support Plates, also made of Styrene (0,3 mm), which of course should not be missing. Then I took a closer look at the Spike, which contains the Upper Door Seal Control Panel, which I had previously only imitated as a Dummy. On closer inspection, however, one sees that this is not just a simple thorn, but that it is divided into two and only its rear part tapers out, which is closed with a little hatch, which has a handle in the middle and a small socket at the top right, things which should perhaps be scratchable. Source: NASA (STS-132) So I tried to spice up my Dummy (2 mm x 7 mm) a bit, what I still didn't really like so much, which is why I planned another Spike that I wanted to be a little more skilful with. Edited May 14, 2022 by spaceman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted May 15, 2022 Author Share Posted May 15, 2022 Hello everybody, since such a small stub is difficult to handle and edit, in order to make the work with my 2nd Spike easier, I've used an Evergreen Strip (2 mm x 2 mm), on which I first removed half of the tip area and rounded off the front part. After that, I slowly worked the shape of the spike and carefully filed it bit by bit, slowly allowing the spike to take its final shape, which finally satisfied me. The Spike was then shortened to the final, slightly longer length and sanded smoothly. Here the other needed parts are to see, the Hatch made of Styrene (0,13 mm), as well as a Broom hair (Ø 0,15 mm ) for the handle, which is barely visible, and a German silver wire (Ø 0,25 mm) for the Connector. Then the holes (Ø 0,3 mm) for the handle and the connector were drilled and the handle was bent, which was a bit tricky, as it was only 1 mm long, or better short. Then the hatch was glued to the Spike and the holes re-drilled to the required depth. Gluing in the shortened handle and the short connector into the holes was quite a game of patience, but it finally worked. With this the finished Spike could actually be glued onto the Aft Bulkhead, but wherewith I want to wait, until the Door covering and the Side walls are glued on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
freshnewstart Posted May 15, 2022 Share Posted May 15, 2022 Mr Spaceman from outer space, keep on in exeptionel style😁 Sooo Cool Manfred 💪 Jesper Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted May 16, 2022 Author Share Posted May 16, 2022 Thanks Jesper for your excitement, then I have no choice but to keep going to meet the challenge! After all, it's about Challenger's legacy! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crowe-t Posted May 16, 2022 Share Posted May 16, 2022 Manfred, Nice job on the spike. Mike. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted May 16, 2022 Author Share Posted May 16, 2022 Thanks Mike, it's only a small detail of the Canister, but a striking feature that should not be missing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted May 19, 2022 Author Share Posted May 19, 2022 (edited) Hello everybody, after I had made enough fittings, the final wallpapering of the Payload Bay Doorss and Side walls of the canister could now be done. According to the intended order, the door covering was next in line. After unrolling the previously rolled-up cover, its shape fitted the curve very well. Then I have coated the upper edge of the side wall on the left side (Port side) as well as half of curves of both Support walls with UHU glue and glued the Port Side Door while carefully pressing on. This was followed in the same way by the Starboard Side Door. Doing so I've noticed that while handling three of the Vertical Transportation Support Plates on the Aft Bulkhead had peeled off, but which were found and were glued together again. Then the Port side wall was wallpapered first, and then the Starboard side wall in the same way. With that, the compulsory exercise was successfully completed, in the way I had imagined. Then there was the obligatory test fitting of the canister on the transporter with the temporarily attached Spike, what successfully passed my critical quality control. At this image you can see the transporter in the position, which he has when leaving the Vertical Processing Facility (VPF). Source: retrospaceimages.com (STS-6) And in this position, the transporter drives the canister to the Launch pad, as was to be seen in this image already. Source: 16streets.com/MacLaren After this compulsory exercise, the freestyle exercise can now follow, in which I will first turn to the Locking mechanism of the Payload Bay Doors, which I have already briefly described, whose linkage system can be seen in this photo of the STS-132. Source: NASA (STS-132) But, as always, I first have to determine the dimensions of the individual parts in order to be able to scratch them. Edited May 19, 2022 by spaceman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
freshnewstart Posted May 19, 2022 Share Posted May 19, 2022 Because you are so fiddly i see some distance here.. What is the canister resting on? Jesper Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted May 19, 2022 Author Share Posted May 19, 2022 (edited) Thanks Jesper for your question, which is absolutely justified and brings me to some other missing details, which are to be observed with both the Canister and the Transporter. The canister ist resting on the four Vertical Transportation Support Plates, which are also on the Transporter, Source: NASA (STS-132) as I have now seen in retrospect and therefore have still to be added there. Source: NASA But even more important are these four punched Vertical Transportation Tie-down Lug Plates, which engage fork-shaped Hold-down Clevises on the transporter deck, which are connected to the canister with large steel pins, and serve as anchor points for securing the canister in the vertical transport position. Without this safeguard, the canister was not allowed to be transported in a vertical position at all. And of course they shouldn't be missing, so my canister can't tip over. Edited May 21, 2022 by spaceman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted May 20, 2022 Author Share Posted May 20, 2022 (edited) Hello everybody, in the meantime I've checked some Hi-Res. Photos and measured the distance between the Canister and the Transporter deck, which is approx. 1 mm. Therefore I will attach the missing Transport plates and also the horizontal and vertical Hold-down Clevises to the canister and Hold-down devices to the transporter, so that then everything complies with the safety regulations. Then I've also found out that these Hold-down Clevises were not permanently attached to the transporter, depending on the type of transport, but could also be dismantled, which can be seen in this image for the horizontal PLC Transport, when the vertical hold downs were not required. Source: NASA (STS-135) Learned something new again! Edited May 21, 2022 by spaceman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted May 21, 2022 Author Share Posted May 21, 2022 Hello everybody, now I can think about how to scratch the Payload Bay Door Latch System. The door latch mechanism can be actuated from either end of the door by a Torque tube that runs the length of the door, which contains seven Door latches. Source: NASA (STS-132) As one can see in this image, there are seven Locking pawls on the tube which, when closed, lock both doors. Source: NASA (STS-135) In a first step I've determined some dimensions for it. Source: NASA (STS-132) Now I can look around for some suitable plastic profiles. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
freshnewstart Posted May 21, 2022 Share Posted May 21, 2022 On 5/20/2022 at 1:56 AM, spaceman said: Thanks Jesper for your question, which is absolutely justified and brings me to some other missing details, which are to be observed with both the Canister and the Transporter. The canister ist resting on the four Vertical Transportation Support Plates, which are also on the Transporter, Source: NASA (STS-132) as I have now seen in retrospect and therefore have still to be added there. Source: NASA But even more important are these four punched Vertical Transportation Tie-down Lug Plates, which engage fork-shaped Hold-down Clevises on the transporter deck, which are connected to the canister with large steel pins, and serve as anchor points for securing the canister in the vertical transport position. Without this safeguard, the canister was not allowed to be transported in a vertical position at all. And of course they shouldn't be missing, so my canister can't tip over. Thanx for the great info, you really dig deep Manfred 💪😊 Jesper Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted May 21, 2022 Author Share Posted May 21, 2022 (edited) Thanks Jesper, nothing beats good reference photos! I'm sure, that there are corresponding photos for every detail that can be used to determine the dimensions for scratch-building yourself. You just have to have the photos or search and if possible find them. It's just a question of your own ambition, time and patience ... Whoever seeks will find, it says already in the Bible ... Edited May 22, 2022 by spaceman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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