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Space Shuttle Launch Pad 39A with Challenger STS-6 (1:144)


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Hello everybody,

 

since I also came across some drawings with detailed views of the sides of the canister in part of the documentation Orbiter Payload Canisters (HEAR NO. FL-8-11-I), I decided without further ado to abandon my previous plan of gluing the coherent sleeve (Paper kit) and instead to create detailed Sides separately and glue them onto the Balsa framework of the canister. Now that I know where the details go, I can choose which ones to scratch and save a lot of drawing work. cool.gif 

 

Before I'll try printing the parts on an Evergreen Sheet Styrene (0,13mm) I will first print them out on paper to be able to check the fit of the parts on the framework. up045518.gif

 

The first thing I did was to determine the semi-circular outline of the Payload Bay Doors to be able to glue the curved covering of the canister later onto the side walls and the inner Supporting walls at the Forward & Aft Bulkheads.

 

To do this, I fixed again a thin brass wire closely around the curve of a supporting wall with magnets in order to be able to determine the length for the flat pattern of the contour, which is the simplest solution.  up039822.gif 

 

CDlkFX.jpg

 

And this is what the flat pattern looks like. 

 

QFOwur.jpg

 

It is approx. 50 mm long, so the part for the doors should have dimensions of 120 mm x 50 mm, making the semicircular PLC doors.

 

Bl2hO1.jpg

 

Based on the drawings, I was able to reconstruct the doors of the canister from the top and side views, which was not that easy, since e.g. the position of the semicircular brackets of the Door Actuators of both doors had to be projected into the plane.  up037312.gif 

 

W2zCEZ.jpg  
Source: NASA Conference Publication 2342 Part 2 (M. E. Donahue)

 

When preparing the parts, I first retouched away all those details of the drawings that are outside the canister shell, such as ladders, railings, cables, etc., so as not to see them twice afterwards, and have only marked their base points. up045518.gif

 

And this is how the finished flat pattern of the doors now looks like,

 

FHqtJz.jpg

 

that I printed out on paper and cut out, up046933.gif then have rolled in, 

 

cj6fxm.jpg

 

and rolled it out again after a while.

 

XJ3VVW.jpg

 

The test fitting of the doors on the canister looked nearly perfect and made me quite confident about the further procedure. :whistle:

 

8IYKzg.jpg

 

This includes further drawings, such as the Forward & Aft Bulkheads, but again without the ladders and railings located there, 

 

w9oRMK.jpg 

 

as well as the Port Side & Starboard Side with the remaining parts of the Door Actuator systems, whose Actuator Screw Jackets were removed again, as well as the ladders too. huh.gif

 

And of course the Bottom of the canister must not be missing (below).

 

H4wm1s.jpg

 

So far for today, tomorrow is still another day too. up040577.gif

Edited by spaceman
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Hello everybody,

 

today I started with the structural work of the Payload Canister and first glued the two side walls with the bottom.  cool.gif In doing so it was important to ensure that the walls were vertical, flush with the floor and couldn't slip, which is why I clamped them in using my proven Magnetic clamping Technique. up045518.gif

 

XaVDr4.jpg

 

Then I glued the Forward and Aft Bulkheads on both sides. To stabilize both sides in the longitudinal direction and to later support the thin Payload Bay Doors (0,13 mm), I've also intended a spacer bar (2 mm x 4 mm x 120 mm) made of Balsa, which was temporarily held by the supporting walls during the gluing and acted as a spacer, for which I had cut out a corresponding recess from the two supporting walls. up039822.gif

 

E7dGqR.jpg

 

After checking that the previously glued parts were correctly seated, I then glued both supporting walls from the inside onto the front and back and fixed them with clips, and glued in the spacer bar. 

 

qZNErc.jpg

 

This completed the structural work of the canister,  :whistle:

 

NSpgVz.jpg

 

and I was able to try on the doors, which matched again, as did the cover of the Forward Bulkhead

 

5C0Nit.jpg

 

At this point it should be mentioned briefly that the Canisters were labeled with same designations as the Orbiter: the Starboard Side (right), and the Port Side (left). up045518.gif

 

In order to get an overall impression, I have now also covered the walls all around, here with a view of the Port Side and the Forward Bulkhead,  

 

Uer5hg.jpg

 

and here a view of the Starboard Side and the Aft Bulkhead with the Spike

 

yleLBT.jpg

 

Well, and then I was curious and of course I wanted to see what the Canister looks like on the Transporter, and here it is, even if only as a provisional arrangement, here with a view of the Port Side

 

TnyL4c.jpg

 

A8TJ8Q.jpg

 

and on the Starboard Side

 

j9puGh.jpg

 

And this is the view of the transporter approaching the Launch pad with upright standing canister.

 

VIGaV0.jpg

 

OBz2IK.jpg

 

As an interim conclusion, it can be said that the images are promising despite the still unfinished state of the canister and encourage me to continue, s-boese-wand02.gif although there is still a lot to do before final completion the Sheet Styrene version, but it is after all a decent result.  up040577.gif

Edited by spaceman
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Hello everybody,

 

today, exceptionally just a short statement - so to speak, as a Word for Sunday. cool.gif

 

Unfortunately, I had to bury my hopes for the planned Sheet Styrene version today, because the printout of the prepared parts on the thin Evergreen Plastic Foil was a complete flop. up043952.gif

 

Maybe that would work with a Laser printer, but certainly not with my Inkjet printer, because the color doesn't dry sufficiently and smudges with every touch. up037312.gif

 

So I will use normal paper for the cladding of the Canister, then it fits better with the Transporter anyway, that's Trial & Error! up045518.gif

 

And with that a good jump into the merry month of May. up040577.gif

Edited by spaceman
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Well, we can't accept this setback ... Manfred, when I make my own decals, my inkjet printer prints on Glossy Decal film.

It would smear if I touched it, I'm sure.

 

So I spray Clear Spray Paint on it. 2 or 3 very light coats and the decal film and printer Ink is therefore waterproof.

This may work for you too, on the styrene.

 

I usually let my ink dry for at least 24 hours, you may need to let it dry a little longer. And then after the spray, let it all dry for another 24 hours.

 

I sure hope this helps.

As usual, I am enjoying your thought process and journey!

Pete

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Thanks Pete for your encouraging words. :worship:

 

I immediately thought of decal foil, but what was a fallacy. :doh:

 

We must beware to compare apples to oranges, Evergreen Sheet Styrene is not a Decal Foil compatible with the ink, while Evergreen Styrene appears to be not. :hmmm:

 

The color of the printout was pale and blurred, and the Evergreen Sheet is not A4 but narrower and was therefore drawn in at an angle rather than straight, so it was a total flop. :woot.gif:

 

Another possibility would be to print it out on decal foil, as you practice and have already described to me. cool.gif

 

But I'll stick to the printout on Paper now and refrain from further experiments. 

 

We'll see ... up040577.gif

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Hello everybody,

 

let's continue, and thus full concentration on the cladding of the Balsa shell with the side walls incl. Payload Bay Doors made of paper, wherefore I had to rethink something. cool.gif

 

Somehow I had to give the curved doors more support before gluing and make sure that they couldn't buckle anywhere that would then be impossible to correct. up037312.gif

 

That's why I first increased the two Balsa side walls (H = 20 mm) by gluing on Balsa strips (2 mm)

 

ymQYI6.jpg

 

resulting in a adhesive edge for the door shell. :thumbsup:

 

PlF4uF.jpg

 

Then I've thought up047090.gif that, for reasons of rigidity of this shell, it would be useful and also safer to use a Supporting roof of Styrene (0,13 mm), which would then provide sufficient support and stability when gluing the paper doors.

 

So I've immediately looked for a suitable core (Ø approx. 35 mm) for the Thermal curvature of the door cover, for which a kitchen roll aluminum foil has offered itself, 

 

y9x7nU.jpg

 

onto which I glued the Styrene sheet.  up039822.gif

 

ahE9mM.jpg

 

Since the usual hot air gun did not seem suitable for evenly heating the sheet, I filled my kettle without further ado, heated the water strongly and dived the roll with the shell for a while in the hope that the curvature would set in, just like in my hitherto always successful Balsa bending tests of various plastic profiles at the SSWS. hmmm.gif

 

Am67jx.jpg

 

But things never turn out the way you expect ...shrug.gif To my surprise, the Styrene strip then relaxed back to its original shape, contrary to expectations, as if nothing had happened. up037692.gif

 

PlF4uF.jpg

 

I had to let this disappointment sink in first and had to further modify my solution in order to be able to glue the door cover. rolleyes.gif

 

Since adhesive surfaces on the sides of the curves of the inner support walls would certainly be helpful for this, I've bent two arcs of an Evergreen strip (0,75 mm x 1 mm) using my Hot air gun and my Balsa bending technique.

 

DVRmdx.jpg

 

z4HHhV.jpg

 

R4ijbg.jpg

 

And as one can see, Evergreen Sheet Styrene and Evergreen Strip Styrene cannot be the same material. Apparently Evergreen Sheet Styrene, in contrast to the Strips, is a Duroplast that doesn't mind heat at all, which is why it retains its original shape. huh.gif

 

IMmk8d.jpg

 

I then glued these arcs onto the support walls, and also still Evergreen angles (1,5 mm x 1,5 mm) on the side walls.

 

LurysC.jpg

 

And since this stubborn door roof cannot be glue in one step, I have to proceed step by step and initially only glued one side to the angle, fixed it accordingly and let it dry.

 

9jny7B.jpg

 

R3DeoS.jpg

 

However, since the strip was not yet completely glued in the middle, 

 

wTQ6dN.jpg

 

I've brushed it once again with Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) both on the outside and on the inside of the angle and glued it additionally. 

 

tEll7d.jpg

 

But now I'm pondering how best to glue the rest of the part ... idea1_2.gif

 

WXPxQ9.jpg

 

With normal Plastic glue this will not work which would take time to set, so this method is ruled out. :whistle:

 

That's why the only thing that remains is to glue it with CA, although I'm considering first dabbing only half the curve of the three support walls with CA and then to pull the cover sheet across the curves and to hold it briefly, which should be enough to tie it off. Maybe a bit tricky matter, but what might work. hmmm.gif

 

Then the other half could follow. up040577.gif

Edited by spaceman
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Hello everybody,

 

and that's exactly how I did it, and I can anticipate the result right away, it actually worked. :nanner:

 

After the first half of the Door sheet was glued onto the additional support arcs of the inner support walls with CA and also has kept,

 

BCYKC0.jpg

 

came the other half's turn, which I first held with great care and then has clamped once again to be on the safe side. :whistle:

 

RTmZsK.jpg

 

And that's how I imagined the result, with which I'm very satisfied. up039822.gif

 

Z1GC5A.jpg

 

Now the transitions can be smoothed out a bit and then the pre-bulged Paper roof of the Doors can be glued in peace, 

 

39DNrr.jpg

 

and then all the remaining sides. up040577.gif

Edited by spaceman
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Thanks Mike for your nice comment, :worship:

 

I'm trying to make my dreams come true, day by day ... It's simply my passion! :whistle:

 

Yep, my kettle is a great device, Made in Germany by SIEMENSup040577.gif

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Hello friends,

 

but I can't get started with the cladding of the Balsa shell quite that quickly, because, as always, the correct and appropriate order is important, which I have to consider, so that the next steps cannot be hindered. Strength lies in calmness! cool.gif

 

That's why I thought it thoroughly again and came up with the following order. idea1_2.gif

 

First, I'm going to cladd up the larger and smaller "ears" on the inside of the Forward and Aft Bulkheads. These are only tiny areas, but they first have to be glued before I can glue on the door cover. :thumbsup:

 

Therefore, next I've determined the lower contours for these small snippets by using a Support wall and have drawn them on Sheet Styrene (0,13 mm ), which I've split beforehand because of the easier handling when gluing. 

 

g3ya1w.jpg

 

But since the foil is shiny, it wouldn't match the dull paper of the rest of the side panels, which is why I dulled it beforehand with Tamiya Sanding Sponge Sheet 2000. up039822.gif

 

Then I've glued the halves with CA on the inside of the Forward Bulkhead and trimmed off the protruding parts, 

 

first on the left inner side,

 

LkdKZa.jpg

 

y8zGyI.jpg

 

and then on the right inner side.

 

D6T5JT.jpg

 

The same procedure then followed on the Aft Bulkhead

 

POyMEm.jpg

 

RrZTdw.jpg

 

Next I've cut out the Styrene strips (2 mm) for the top sides' curves of the Forward and Aft Bulkheads, 
 
beSAKV.jpg

 

which can now be adjusted and then glued step by step. up040577.gif

Edited by spaceman
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Hello everybody,

 

after the tricky little "ears" were cut back, the strips could be glued with the UHU-CA, first one half of the rounding so that something could be corrected, and then the other half, which also worked quite well. cool.gif

 

y6hOL8.jpg

 

Both strips were then smoothly sanded at the edges. 

 

w7fXy6.jpg

 

Then the Front and Back were to be papered, initially using UHU Spray adhesive. But either the glue wasn't mixed thoroughly after it hadn't been used for a long time or it was too old, in any case I wasn't satisfied with the result because the paper was stained, which didn't go away even after drying. up037312.gif

 

That's why I went back to my previous technique and spread a corresponding area of glue from the UHU-Nimble Bottle onto a piece of paper, briefly placed the front side cover on it and then glued it onto the front. It is important that one must hit the right position as quickly and precisely as possible, since the wetted paper can only be corrected for a short time. rolleyes.gif

 

And this is what the Forward Bulkhead looks like, which is quite impressive. up039822.gif

 

7kBskJ.jpg

 

dbg4Aa.jpg

 

Don't worry, the front shouldn't remain so bare, of course, especially since the all-round papering of the canister is only the Compulsory exercise, so to speak, and the Voluntary exercise with a number of details still will follow. :whistle:

 

Here's already a little foretaste of the ladders and railings etc. that I'm looking forward to. default_give_heart.gif

 

index.php?action=dlattach;topic=37640.0;
Source: forum.nasaspaceflight.com (Ares67, STS-9)

 

And the Back (Aft Bulkhead) with the Spike outline was papered in the same way.

 

emHErp.jpg

 

But before I turn to this Spike, I first wanted to paper the bottom of the canister, which I was a bit scared about because of the size. hmmm.gif

 

So that the gluing could go as quickly as possible, I carefully clamped the canister in a handy slanted position on the edge of the table. Then I quickly coated the previously marked area on the sheet of paper with glue, put the floor cover on briefly, then quickly removed it again, 

 

hcKQ9D.jpg

 

and immediately applied to the bottom with pinpoint accuracy, so that it only had to be readjusted slightly.  up045518.gif

 

XkATj5.jpg

 

5C5QSh.jpg

 

Then I've cut the four small Horizontal Transportation Support Plates from Styrene (0,3 mm) for the bottom, 

 

9RxJMX.jpg

 

and glued them on. 

 

oGzTsp.jpg

 

And on the Back side (Aft Bulkhead) there are also four Vertical Transportation Support Plates, also made of Styrene (0,3 mm), which of course should not be missing. 

 

7FOFLU.jpg

 

Then I took a closer look at the Spike, which contains the Upper Door Seal Control Panel, which I had previously only imitated as a Dummy. huh.gif    

 

A8TJ8Q.jpg

 

On closer inspection, however, one sees that this is not just a simple thorn, but that it is divided into two and only its rear part tapers out, which is closed with a little hatch, which has a handle in the middle and a small socket at the top right, things which should perhaps be scratchable. cool.gif

 

KVUGaO.jpg
Source: NASA (STS-132)

 

So I tried to spice up my Dummy (2 mm x 7 mm) a bit, 

 

93EIDr.jpg

 

7RPDUh.jpg

 

what I still didn't really like so much, undecided.gif which is why I planned another Spike that I wanted to be a little more skilful with. up040577.gif

Edited by spaceman
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Hello everybody,

 

since such a small stub is difficult to handle and edit, in order to make the work with my 2nd Spike easier,  I've used an Evergreen Strip (2 mm x 2 mm), on which I first removed half of the tip area and rounded off the front part.  cool.gif

 

6SNaGu.jpg

 

After that, I slowly worked the shape of the spike and carefully filed it bit by bit, slowly allowing the spike to take its final shape, which finally satisfied me. up045518.gif

 

vJ4N2p.jpg

 

The Spike was then shortened to the final, slightly longer length and sanded smoothly. 

 

mwlL3h.jpg

 

Here the other needed parts are to see, the Hatch made of Styrene (0,13 mm), as well as a Broom hair (Ø 0,15 mm ) for the handle, which is barely visible, and a German silver wire (Ø 0,25 mm) for the Connector

 

7FExQB.jpg

 

Then the holes (Ø 0,3 mm) for the handle and the connector were drilled and the handle was bent, which was a bit tricky, as it was only 1 mm long, or better short. rolleyes.gif

 

UsJcfr.jpg

 

Then the hatch was glued to the Spike and the holes re-drilled to the required depth. 

 

FfPQeM.jpg

 

Gluing in the shortened handle and the short connector into the holes was quite a game of patience, up037312.gif but it finally worked. up039822.gif

 

zjqPS1.jpg

 

With this the finished Spike could actually be glued onto the Aft Bulkhead

 

b6FsJ4.jpg

 

but wherewith I want to wait, until the Door covering and the Side walls are glued on. up040577.gif

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Thanks Jesper for your excitement, :worship:

 

then I have no choice but to keep going to meet the challenge! :nanner:

 

After all, it's about Challenger's legacy!   up040577.gif

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Hello everybody,

 

after I had made enough fittings, the final wallpapering of the Payload Bay Doorss and Side walls of the canister could now be done.cool.gif 

 

According to the intended order, the door covering was next in line. After unrolling the previously rolled-up cover, its shape fitted the curve very well. up045518.gif

 

fefx7z.jpg

 

Then I have coated the upper edge of the side wall on the left side (Port side) as well as half of curves of both Support walls with UHU glue and glued the Port Side Door while carefully pressing on.

 

shswmK.jpg

 

This was followed in the same way by the Starboard Side Door. Doing so I've noticed that while handling three of the Vertical Transportation Support Plates on the Aft Bulkhead had peeled off, rolleyes.gif but which were found and were glued together again. 

 

s6m1Bc.jpg

 

Then the Port side wall was wallpapered first,

 

jUzbNz.jpg

 

and then the Starboard side wall  in the same way.

 

Hyp5AU.jpg

 

With that, the compulsory exercise was successfully completed, in the way I had imagined. up039822.gif

 

Then there was the obligatory test fitting of the canister on the transporter with the temporarily attached Spike, what successfully passed my critical quality control.  up045518.gif

 

Whmo11.jpg

 

k9GnEk.jpg

 

At this image you can see the transporter in the position,

 

IbR89x.jpg

 

which he has when leaving the Vertical Processing Facility (VPF).

 

up076197.jpg
Source: retrospaceimages.com (STS-6)

 

And in this position, the transporter drives the canister to the Launch pad,

 

WuaxFx.jpg

 

as was to be seen in this image already. 

 

up075911.jpg
Source: 16streets.com/MacLaren

 

After this compulsory exercise, the freestyle exercise can now follow, in which I will first turn to the Locking mechanism of the Payload Bay Doors, which I have already briefly described, whose linkage system can be seen in this photo of the STS-132.

 

Y5Cb6W.jpg
Source: NASA (STS-132)

 

But, as always, I first have to determine the dimensions of the individual parts in order to be able to scratch them. up040577.gif

Edited by spaceman
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Thanks Jesper for your question, :worthy: which is absolutely justified and brings me to some other missing details, which are to be observed with both the Canister and the Transportercool.gif

 

The canister ist resting on the four Vertical Transportation Support Plates, which are also on the Transporter,

 

ET4yQm.jpg
Source: NASA (STS-132)

 

as I have now seen in retrospect and therefore have still to be added there. up045518.gif

 

00pp0083.jpg
Source: NASA

 

But even more important are these four punched Vertical Transportation Tie-down Lug Plates, which engage fork-shaped Hold-down Clevises on the transporter deck, which are connected to the canister with large steel pins, and serve as anchor points for securing the canister in the vertical transport position. up039822.gif

 

Without this safeguard, the canister was not allowed to be transported in a vertical position at all. boese.gif

 

And of course they shouldn't be missing, so my canister can't tip over. up040577.gif

Edited by spaceman
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Hello everybody,

 

in the meantime I've checked some Hi-Res. Photos and measured the distance between the Canister and the Transporter deck, which is approx. 1 mm.

 

oNLB1x.jpg

 

Therefore I will attach the missing Transport plates and also the horizontal and vertical Hold-down Clevises to the canister and Hold-down devices to the transporter, so that then everything complies with the safety regulations. up045518.gif

 

Then I've also found out that these Hold-down Clevises were not permanently attached to the transporter, depending on the type of transport, but could also be dismantled, which can be seen in this image for the horizontal PLC Transport, when the vertical hold downs were not required. 

 

KPVMAY.jpg
Source: NASA (STS-135)

 

Learned something new again! up040577.gif

Edited by spaceman
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Hello everybody,

 

now I can think about how to scratch the Payload Bay Door Latch System. cool.gif

 

The door latch mechanism can be actuated from either end of the door by a Torque tube that runs the length of the door, which contains seven Door latches.  


Q9DtHh.jpg
Source: NASA (STS-132)

 

As one can see in this image, there are seven Locking pawls on the tube which, when closed, lock both doors.

 

tnpxz1.jpg
Source: NASA (STS-135)

 

In a first step I've determined some dimensions for it.

 

bci5qX.jpg
Source: NASA (STS-132)

 

Now I can look around for some suitable plastic profiles. up040577.gif

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On 5/20/2022 at 1:56 AM, spaceman said:

Thanks Jesper for your question, :worthy: which is absolutely justified and brings me to some other missing details, which are to be observed with both the Canister and the Transportercool.gif

 

The canister ist resting on the four Vertical Transportation Support Plates, which are also on the Transporter,

 

ET4yQm.jpg
Source: NASA (STS-132)

 

as I have now seen in retrospect and therefore have still to be added there. up045518.gif

 

00pp0083.jpg
Source: NASA

 

But even more important are these four punched Vertical Transportation Tie-down Lug Plates, which engage fork-shaped Hold-down Clevises on the transporter deck, which are connected to the canister with large steel pins, and serve as anchor points for securing the canister in the vertical transport position. up039822.gif

 

Without this safeguard, the canister was not allowed to be transported in a vertical position at all. boese.gif

 

And of course they shouldn't be missing, so my canister can't tip over. up040577.gif

Thanx for the great info, you really dig deep Manfred 💪😊

Jesper

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Thanks Jesper, :worship:

 

nothing beats good reference photos! up045518.gif

 

I'm sure, that there are corresponding photos for every detail that can be used to determine the dimensions for scratch-building yourself. You just have to have the photos or search and if possible find them. It's just a question of your own ambition, time and patience ... :whistle:

 

Whoever seeks will find, it says already in the Bible ...up040577.gif

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