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Space Shuttle Launch Pad 39A with Challenger STS-6 (1:144)

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Hello friends,

 

only some thoughts to minor changes of the IT. cool.gif

 

In consultation with Michael Key we will now omit the inner tube completely, as there would probably be problems with the removal of the support material, which could possibly resist the ultrasonic cleaning. Then one would have to drill out the tube, which seems to me but too risky. rolleyes.gif

 

BTW, I did not want to believe it at first, but there was one thing which I have noticed in retrospect on the 3D print, what I have overlooked at the 3D renderings. smiley_worship.gif

 

The front part of the LO2 PAL Ramp of the 3D model has almost the same width as the back part of the LH2 PAL Ramp, but this is a mistake and does not match the original optics. i5684_no2.gif

 

The LO2 PAL Ramp is too narrow and therefore needs to be widened, as one can see in these images. And actually, both ramps end up on the stringer top and do not run to the valley as before. rolleyes.gif 

 

ZwPtd6.jpg
Source: shapeways.com (The Aerospace Place)

 

6nKUr9.jpg
Source: NASA

 

But that can certainly be corrected so that the optics are right again. up040577.gif

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Posted (edited)

Hello everybody,

 

actually I had thought that Michael Key had to make only small changes. But it came different again ... huh.gif

 

First, he has omitted the inner tube as well as modified the LO2 PAL Ramp (right) as desired, which looks  much better. cool.gif

 

Wjrm8n.jpg
Source: shapeways.com (The Aerospace Place)

 

However, I noticed that he did not modify the LH2 PAL Ramp in the same way, which I took for granted and therefore have not said it again. smiley_worship.gif

 

3WRtXf.jpg
Source: shapeways.com (The Aerospace Place)

 

But about his change of the diameters of the IT to reduce the slightly too large overhang at the rear end (Ør 60,0 mm) I was then quite shocked, because he accordingly must have misunderstood my image with the diameters of the Airfix Intertank and the values measured at the 3D print (red on white ground).  eek.gif 

 

But in hindsight, I must confess that the picture has become rather confusing and misleading. rolleyes.gif

 

bQxTXg.jpg

 

Because he had now set the front diameter (Øf) of the IT to 57,0 mm and the rear diameter (Ør) to 58,0 mm, so that it is consistent with the front and the rear part of the ET. As a result, there should be no overhang of the IT, neither front nor back, but which in reality is not the case because of the Stringer/Ribs and has never been up for discussion, on the contrary. i5684_no2.gif 

 

Maybe that the rejuvenation of IT by 1 mm seemed to have got mixed up him, which was obviously difficult to implement in modeling.    hmmm.gif

 

The bad thing was that he had already uploaded this disimproved Intertank to Shapeways. undecided.gif

 

After that I have showed him the different diameters of the three ET parts again clearly in the following pictures and explained the differences. top.gif

 

D2 and D3 are the small overhangs of the Airfix IT that need to stay that way.

 

13EK65.jpg

 

On this image one can see the connection diameter D2.1, which has to fit into the ET front part (D1.1), and the diameter D4.1 of the heel of the ET rear part, which has to fit into the Intertank,  

 

ezNa5y.jpg

 

whose inner diameter D3.1 can be seen here.

 

XpZJtO.jpg

 

Hopefully this should have made it clear that we need the overhangs, so I asked him for the necessary changes in the hope that he could clench his teeth and be able to do it. cool.gif

 

Apparently Michael Key has that now understood and has adjusted the LH2 PAL Ramp as well as the rear IT diameter D3 to 59,0 mm and the front diameter 58,0 mm and then uploaded his model again.  speak_cool.gif

 

And so the Intertank now looks at the Shapeways-Website, whereby he has become even cheaper by the removal of the inner tube with € 69,44. top2.gif

 

710x528_22701380_12505311_1521334724.jpg
Source: shapeways.com (The Aerospace Place)

 

I just ordered it again and hope that all good things come in threes.  up040577.gif

Edited by spaceman

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Posted (edited)

Hello everybody,

 

another subproject are the Ice/Frost Ramps on the LH2 External Tank, and maybe Michael Key can also help me again.  up040577.gif 

 

In fact, there are 17 Ramps, whereby the rear three ramps looking slightly different than the front 14.

 

up061786.jpg
Source: NASA

 

And that's how most of the Ramps for the GO2/GH2 Press. Lines look like. 

 

up061788.jpg
Source: NASA

 

Our friend Bill (niParts) has already modeled a Set of these Ice Ramps in 1:72, but in 1:144 they are much smaller and could possibly be problematic for 3D printing. rolleyes.gif

 

up061789.jpg
Source: shapeways.com (niParts)

 

In reality, the ramps are 2' x 2' x 1' , and accordingly 4 mm x 4 mm x 2 mm for the ET (1:144).

 

The diameter of the GO2/GH2 Press. Lines is 2'' = Ø 0,35 mm (1:144) and is used as the reference gauge.

 

The openings in the ramps are slightly larger, approx. Ø 0,5 mm, as one can see on this image.

 

up061790.jpg

 

Possible that the small wall thicknesses for Shapeways pose a problem,   up047089.gif but which I do not hope. up040577.gif

Edited by spaceman

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Hello everybody,


in 2015, Mike (egt95) started his project Space Shuttle Discovery STS-41D  based on the Revell Stack (1:144) and the Newware Space Shuttle Enhancement Kit 1/144 (NW131)and had especially introduced the Newware Kit in detail, which consists of 196 parts (93 Resin, 103 PE) and 60 Decals (including templates for SRBs and ET). up039822.gif

Then he started building the Orbiter, and now continues also with the Shuttle Launch tower. 

 

At the end of the last year, when I started to deal with the Intertank and the SRB's  Aft Skirt Thermal Curtains (AFTC), I got to know a friend of the Britmodeller Forum (PZRGREN), who also had used this Newware Kit and asked him for detail photos, especially from the ET and the Ice/Frost Ramps, etc. ... 8) 


Thereupon he has sent me some interesting photos of his ET with the SRBs, where one can see some of the kit parts installed. up045518.gif

 

20170121_174656.jpg

Source: britmodeller.com/forums (PZRGREN)

 

20170121_174707.jpg

Source: britmodeller.com/forums (PZRGREN)

 

20170121_172917.jpg

Source: britmodeller.com/forums (PZRGREN)

 

Since the representation of the ramps in the construction manual of the Newware Kit is very detailed and clear, and the resin parts also make a very good impression,  

 

up048426.jpg
Source: arcforums.com (egt95)

 

I asked my friend to send me some close-ups of the Ramps. Then he offered surprisingly, in addition to the photos to send me also his spare parts and the instructions, what I have thankfully accepted, a really nice gesture from him. up040576.gif

 

rwy2SN.jpg

 

FgRLd7.jpg

 

3KJ6AV.jpg

 

And since I have seen in the instructions that in the associated PE board among other things even the tiny hinges for the Payload Bay Doors of the Challenger are included, which he does not need because he has built the Atlantis I've also asked him about it. 

 

up062035.jpg
Source: arcforums.com (egt95)

 

And he kept his word and in the meantime has sent me the promised things. up039822.gif

 

up062036.jpg

 

up062037.jpg

 

As one can see on this image, there are a few spare parts of almost all the Ramp types, on which I will go into detail, one of which lies on the cent coin. And I have to admit, the parts look really nice, whereby one should not be shocked by the chunky resin blocks. i5684_no2.gif One just has to separate it carefully enough so that there is still something left over from the midgets.  smiley_worship.gif

 

up062038.jpg

 

The openings for the two Press. Lines are actually hollow, and here I have inserted a nickel silver wire (Ø 0,4 mm), which I will use.

 

up062039.jpg

 

The openings are dimensioned slightly larger than real necessary, so that even a Styrene rod (Ø 0,5 mm) fits through, and there is enough space for the Evergreen Strip (0,75 mm x 1 mm) for the Cable Tray, as suggested in the kit, which is slightly oversized, wherefore I will use a smaller strip (0,5 mm x 0,75 mm) that is placed here. cool.gif

 

up062040.jpg

 

The spare parts are indeed not sufficient, but are well suited as a template for the 3D modeling, top.gif since of this R23 Type alone 14 pieces are needed, as one can see from this kit drawing. 

 

up062041.jpg
Source: http://mek.kosmo.cz/newware/nw131.htm

 

With that I want to let it go for now. up040577.gif

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I’m glad someone helped you out on that issue. Again, I apologize on not getting back to you in a reasonable amount of time. All of the New Ware parts are still on the trees and in the box as I have been working on sanding the external tank to an exceptable smoothness to secure the parts properly. 

 

The photos you posted look really good though.

 

Mike.  

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Hello everybody,

 

Shapeways' shipping did not take so long, if you have been wondering about the send pause.  top.gif

 

The reasons for that I still want to explain before the holidays, but the devil is often in the detail, or better said in this case in the Shapeways' tolerances, which I have not yet known so far. rolleyes.gif

 

And if one or the other in the mean time has clicked on the link of the SW website in my post Posted March 19 then he will has been surprised. Oops!!! shocked.gif

 

Outwardly, the second Intertank looks really great,  speak_cool.gif 

 

xhSk5m.jpg

 

but already the test fitting of the ET front part was not possible because the connection diameter D2.1 was still slightly larger than that of the first IT, namely instead of 53,5 mm it was now even 54,1 mm. You could have knocked me down with a feather!!!  eek.gif

 

up062050.jpg

 

Instead of getting a little smaller by Michael Key's adjustment for a better matching the Airfix IT-values, the dimensions became in spite of taking shrinkage (0,8%) into account amazingly even a bit larger, which is still mystery to me. smiley_worship.gif

 

This is shown by the comparison of the dimensions of the two ITs with the Airfix-IT,

 

o2kLb4.jpg

 

whereby I've tried to measure as accurately as possible. cant-believe-my-eyes-smiley-emoticon.gif

 

GLdkQN.jpg

 

SXHBAF.jpg

 

cWskgG.jpg

 

D45sel.jpg

 

While the larger length is less a problem for the fit of the parts, rolleyes.gif

 

mcxduc.jpg

 

the resulting diameters all the more so as the overall IT was printed too large, which can also be seen at the back overhang of the IT, which is just too big for me. erschrocken3.gif

 

uVYmTO.jpg

 

Of course, Michael Key was also very surprised, because according to the SW website, the visible length of the IT (without front connecting ring) should be around 48,9 mm (48,5 mm x 1.008 shrinkage), as it was indicated in his CAD file. 

 

He then removed his shop offer rolleyes.gif and contacted Shapeways for anew refund, which I've received in the meantime. cool.gif

 

While the tolerance for FUD on the SW website is indicated with

 

Accuracy ± 0,1 - 0,2 mm for every 100 mm

 

we have now been told that the actual tolerance of the material is up to 0,4 mm, so one can not guarantee that the IT is perfectly sized, which is inconsistent and in my opinion difficult to accept it. hmmm.gif 

 

However, in a sketch by Michael Key with all dimensions of his CAD model without and with shrinkage (0.8%), I discovered a small flaw that may have contributed to the enlarged diameters, which he has now corrected. huh.gif

 

With these last changes, he has uploaded the model again, and here it can be found. 

 

Now he will also upload a WSF version, which does not have to consider shrinkage and which will surely become a bit cheaper. up040577.gif

 

Now I'm curious what kind of egg this time Shapeways will put into the nest me.  smiley215.gif
Otherwise, I wish you all ostern027.gif and thank you for looking in on me.

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Manfred,

 

Regardless of the size the new IT looks very nice.  Much better that the Airfix IT.

 

Happy Easter!

 

Mike.

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Thanks Mike,

 

Michael Key and me feel really better with this version now and I have just ordered it. 
Therefore keep all  fingers crossed Guys that hopefully all good things will come in threes. [IMG]

Happy Easter!   smileygarden_ostern7.gif

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Posted (edited)

Hello everybody,

 

today with a short update from the Shapeways Team. cool.gif

 

I just could not stand for this contradiction regarding the FUD tolerances i5684_no2.gif and I asked the friendly Shapeways lady, who initially wanted to give me only a lapidary, meaningless answer boese.gif, to explain this dilemma to me. schlaumeier.gif

 

Thereupon was it confirmed by a production colleague that the maximum accuracy that SW can achieve at FUD is actually 0,4 mm, and that the SW guidelines should be adapted, to what one would now work on. rolleyes.gif

 

Well at least something for which my effort has been worthwhile, although still to this day one finds the unchanged previous precision specification of ± 0,1 - 0,2 mm for every 100 mm ... up035091.gif

 

Meanwhile, the third IT is on its way to me, and I'm curious what it will look like. top.gif 

 

In the meantime, I've looked around a bit on the SW pages and now I can better imagine the matter with the Support wax, whereto I have found this nice image at the end of the FUD website with the following explanation. 

 

6XGnyw.jpg
Source: www.shapeways.com/materials/frosted-detail-plastic 

 

And remnants of this stuff one has still to remove off afterwards from the printed parts, although the cleaning at SW actually belongs to the standard procedure, but what is apparently not quite enough. smiley_worship.gif

 

On this site you will also find an interesting Video in which the individual steps of the multi-stage production process are clearly presented by a SW production engineer.  up045518.gif

 

After printing, the models are placed in a freezer to help detaching the parts, and then into an oven, where the wax base melts. Then they are placed first in an ultrasonic oil bath and subsequently in an ultrasonic water bath to remove residual wax and oil residues, and finally, after thorough water rinsing, they are dried and finally tested.

 

Here is an image of the second IT, which looked a bit cleaner than the first one. 

 

QC3LYF.jpg

 

The traces of grease on the paper show, that remnants of the wax/oil remains for the customer unfortunately,  rolleyes.gif

 

xGaSxw.jpg

 

4zv24D.jpg

 

here during the sunbath of the two ITs for the allegedly necessary complete curing of uncured microscopic resin areas under UV light, which was proposed by a shapeways designer named Model Monkey, who is presenting some useful tips (FAQs) on how to use Shapeways prints.  up040577.gif

Edited by spaceman

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Posted (edited)

Yep, recently bought first 3D printed product I've ever purchased, a Starfire game miniature, and they are quite right about the whitening and roughness. And then when you decide to play with your little Canon point and shoot's macro setting ...

(note that battleship is rotated between images, white side is rough side)

 

26912240198_3a9b7ee54a.jpg

 

40072992414_a50cc448fb.jpg

Edited by southwestforests

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Therefore one must clean the prints very carefully, but intensively. :thumbsup:

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Posted (edited)

Hey everyone,

 

meanwhile, I have received the third IT, which makes a much better figure than the first two,

 

zUusuN.jpg

 

and fits also better between the two ET parts, as one can see here. up045518.gif

 

vJq8Fz.jpg

 

M8yeoo.jpg
 
And here the LOX Feedline from the Revell Stack was laid down experimentally. cool.gif

 

RjjC4F.jpg

 

As my remeasurement has shown, but no shrinkage seems to have occurred, so one would probably get along without the 0.8% addition.  hmmm.gif 

 

Then I started with the tests for ultrasonic cleaning of the IT, for what I used the 2nd IT. To grope me step by step to the required cleaning time, I have each set the longest interval (600 sec.), which was repeated several times in succession. huh.gif

 

First, I put the IT on the rear end and cleaned it in from this side a total of 30 minutes, with about 80% were immersed.

 

GWI1OD.jpg

 

jmDajj.jpg

 

yIErVn.jpg

 

After this first cycle, the water looked rather cloudy, rolleyes.gif

 

B55LCV.jpg

 

and was therefore renewed for the cleaning of the other side, which then also took 30 min..

 

After that the IT looked like this, whereby one could see at a closer look but still wax residues in the grooves,  cant-believe-my-eyes-smiley-emoticon.gif which is why half an hour apparently was not enough.

 

qYhzyd.jpg

 

Therefore, I helped along with the electric toothbrush under running water, because the fine grooves between the stringers are obviously the purest wax catchers, which I had already feared. smiley_worship.gif

 

But since even after this action still small wax remains were to be seen, then I grabbed the cutter and went on carefully further cleaning out the interspaces, which is also quite effective, as can be seen at the stripped off residues on my thumb, 

 

1JJjWz.jpg

 

as well as at the cutter tip. undecided.gif

 

ry05O2.jpg

 

This stuff seems to sit so firmly in the grooves, so one will need much longer cleaning times in the ultrasonic bath, as initially suspected. eek.gif 

 

Therefore, I've added another pass of 30 min., which now gives a total cleaning time of 1 h, after which the water is always still cloudy.   

 

Y3n457.jpg 

But as one can see at these photos, there are still areas with more or less wax residue. smiley215.gif

 

VA2eDD.jpg

 

m1U4OT.jpg

 

UQJEau.jpg

 

That immediately reminded me again of the 3-4 h cleaning time in the  BANDELIN-Video during cleaning a FUD chain ... omgsign.gif

So I will either extend the cleaning time still significantly, or sometimes have to try Aceton, or are there any ideas of the Shapeways experts here in the forum?  up047089.gif

Edited by spaceman

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Posted (edited)
18 hours ago, spaceman said:

Hey everyone,

...

So I will either extend the cleaning time still significantly, or sometimes have to try Aceton, or are there any ideas of the Shapeways experts here in the forum?  up047089.gif

I'm obviously no Shapeways expert, but ...

(Grandad W said an expert is merely someone who used to be a drip under pressure)

... the Trolleyville website for trolley and tram modelers has a downloadable pdf for each cleaning and painting, which may be of help to some degree or another.

Lesson 6: Recommendation For Cleaning 3D Printed Models (Instructor: Volkmar Meier), 3 pages, http://www.trolleyville.com/tv/school/lesson5_6/InstructionsCleaning_light.pdf

Lesson 2: Recommendation For Painting 3D Printed Models (Instructor: Volkmar Meier) 4 pages, http://www.trolleyville.com/tv/school/lesson3_2/Painting.pdf

 

Edited by southwestforests
typo, I mean some, not shuttle main engine's acronym

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I'm curious myself to find the best possible way to clean these parts. I haven't experimented with various chemicals and haven't tried anything beyond mild dish detergent, but I think Shapeways cleans the parts in a heated oil of some sort. I wonder what they use. It may be a combination of lightly heated bathes, chemicals and physical scrubbing like your toothbrush method. At some point, something has to work! Keeps us updated on your findings.

 

Thanks,

Bill

 

P.S. If goes without saying but AMAZING work as always on this thing. I'm in awe every time I open your posts.

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I'm wondering if the wax could be melted off by dipping it in boiling or semi-boiling water? Maybe test it on one of the prototype intertanks.

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4 hours ago, southwestforests said:

I'm obviously no Shapeways expert, but ...

(Grandad W said an expert is merely someone who used to be a drip under pressure)

... the Trolleyville website for trolley and tram modelers has a downloadable pdf for each cleaning and painting, which may be of help to some degree or another.

Lesson 6: Recommendation For Cleaning 3D Printed Models (Instructor: Volkmar Meier), 3 pages, http://www.trolleyville.com/tv/school/lesson5_6/InstructionsCleaning_light.pdf

Lesson 2: Recommendation For Painting 3D Printed Models (Instructor: Volkmar Meier) 4 pages, http://www.trolleyville.com/tv/school/lesson3_2/Painting.pdf

 

 

Thanks for these very helpful PDFs. :worship:

All I have to do now is to clench my teeth to get a handle on the cleansing of the IT with its seemingly 1.000 grooves, erschrocken3.gif what is a rather tough nut to crack. s-boese-wand02.gif
But step by step, I am moving forward to break through these obstacles too ... up040577.gif

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5 hours ago, niart17 said:

I'm curious myself to find the best possible way to clean these parts. I haven't experimented with various chemicals and haven't tried anything beyond mild dish detergent, but I think Shapeways cleans the parts in a heated oil of some sort. I wonder what they use. It may be a combination of lightly heated bathes, chemicals and physical scrubbing like your toothbrush method. At some point, something has to work! Keeps us updated on your findings.

 

Thanks,

Bill

 

P.S. If goes without saying but AMAZING work as always on this thing. I'm in awe every time I open your posts.

 

Hi Bill,

 

what a nice surprise that you are looking in on me after a longer time. 8)  I wanted to write you a PM already and ask you about your experience with cleaning your prints, especially with your Shuttle Intertank (1:72), printed in WSF.

 

How did you manage to remove all residual wax from the grooves? smiley215.gif I think it might have been a bit easier than with my 1:144 IT with its finer grooves.

 

BTW, here is a  vivid video Cleaning Process Comparison: MJM vs PolyJet by PCSEngineering about the sequence of postprocessing steps of MJM 3D prints. speak_cool.gif

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Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, Hotdog said:

I'm wondering if the wax could be melted off by dipping it in boiling or semi-boiling water? Maybe test it on one of the prototype intertanks.

 

Welcome Brian,

 

so far, I was careful and used only lukewarm water with a dash of dishwasher detergent. cool.gif

 

But maybe I should take hot water (?) and a little more dishwasher detergent, especially since FUD is heat resistant up to 80°C / 176°F ,  according to ShapewaysUnentschlossen

 

BTW, an interesting suggestion came from another modeler, after what I should put the IT completely in warm water with a few drops of detergent overnight, about 8 to 10 h. This time should be sufficient for the detergent to soften the bond between the wax and the FUD. Thereafter, the IT should be put into the ultrasonic cleaner to finally detach the residual wax. smiley215.gif

 

This "Long pre-soak" Method is known to be used in industry for quite a number of cleaning processes. up045518.gif

Edited by spaceman

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Posted (edited)

Manfred,

 

Here's a good video to watch.  TDR Innovations designs and sells 3D printed parts.  This video should help you with the cleaning process.  I bought an FUD part from them although I haven't cleaned it yet.

 

Mike. 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mVYnbsnoB3Q

 

Here is what Tim(who runs TDR Innovations told me about cleaning FUD parts).

 

"For finishing, the steps are very similar to working with resin:
1. Clean the part.  For this you can use Bletch White or Purple Power by soaking in solution for about an hour and giving it a good scrubbing with a tooth brush before ringing and drying.   You can also use acetone to clean.  Just soak for about 3 min, scrub with tooth brush and soak again in acetone for 1 min.  Set on paper towel and let dry."
 
Manfred, There is a product called Super Clean that is basically the same as Purple Power.
 
 
Edited by crowe-t

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Thanks Mike for your hint,  :worship:

 

I have always seen this video last night.

 

Next I'll check out the Pre-soak Method with my 1st IT, whereby it is actually obvious that soaked "dirt" can be removed better, as in grandmother's time ... up040577.gif

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Hello everybody,

 

following a hint in our German Raumcon Forum, I looked in my Dremel accessories and also found a Nylon Rotor Brush and a Nylon Brush, which I have immediately tested at medium speed. cool.gif

 

stZkfH.jpg

 

In addition to the disadvantage of the many fine grooves, the Intertank has the advantage that it has no protruding small details that can easily break off when brushing, and also it is quite robust. up045518.gif

 

zgouoN.jpg

 

That's why I was able to ride across the grooves relatively easily and smoothly with the rotor brush, whereby it was already visible to the naked eye how the white wax residues gradually disappeared and the grooves slowly became clean, which pleasantly surprised me. top.gif

 

WXwUxD.jpg

 

While cleaning in the area of the Stringer Panel is relatively easy due to the continuous grooves,

 

F14SKl.jpg

 

one has to do one's best in the subdivided areas of the Thrust Panel. rolleyes.gif

 

OwInt6.jpg

 

Under the big magnifying glass, one can see more clearly the differences between areas with wax residue and already cleaned areas. spiegel-smilies-0002.gif

 

And furthermore one can still see that in the two outer areas of the Thrust Panel on the right edge with the little "pockets" still sits a lot of wax, because they are worse reachable with the Rotor brush, which is why I there will try the Nylon brush that will probably get in better there. smiley215.gif

 

qcjzWV.jpg

 

To be able to see such differences in detail even better, cant-believe-my-eyes-smiley-emoticon.gif I always apply the following trick.

 

To do this, I paste the photo into a Word document, then I increase the magnification, as shown here e.g. up to 300%, and take a screenshot, which I then upload.  up045518.gif

 

This closeness can no longer be captured by the autofocus of my digicam.  i5684_no2.gif

 

AKFs7I.jpg

 

This is the maximum possible closeness, if the image is still to become halfway sharp. huh.gif

 

OEwva2.jpg

 

And here I've tested the Nylon brush, and I have to say that does not look too bad. speak_cool.gif

 

j6TZOt.jpg

 

The cleaned area stands out clearly from the rest of the area, whereby one must consider that this IT was already 1 h in the ultrasonic bath. hmmm.gif 

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Hey everyone,

 

an interesting suggestion came from another modeler, after what I should put the IT completely in warm water with a few drops of detergent overnight, about 8 to 10 h. This time should be sufficient for the detergent to soften the bond between the wax and the FUD. Thereafter, the IT should be put into the ultrasonic cleaner to finally detach the residual wax. smiley215.gif

 

This "Long pre-soak" Method is known to be used in industry for quite a number of cleaning processes. 

 

This Intertank with its many fine grooves seems to be a prime example of a "wax catcher" analintruder.gif and therefore obviously needs a combined special cleaning treatment. 

 

But I  will not let up until I have found a way out, rely on it. up040577.gif

 

Therefore I'm going to try the Pre-soak method (maybe a day or two) with my 1st IT, whereby it actually seems logical that soaked "dirt" can be removed better, as in grandmother's time ... top.gif

 

And maybe the brushing out of the grooves with the Dremel brush can also be done under water. smiley232.gif

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Hi, Manfred, what do you think about brake fluid like they do to strip off paint? Or lacquer thinner (the industrial, hardware store kind). I  have some of Vincent's LM parts I haven"t cleaned yet but I'm not sure if I want to sacrifice one and watch the part dissolve.  

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