Space Shuttle Launch Pad 39A with Challenger STS-6 (1:144)

[ApolloMan]

Manfred this is amazing, the idea for your rain birds has helped me figure out how to add the details I am missing on mine

Thanks

[spaceman]

Hi Mick,

I am glad that you like my Cartridge belt-technology, then you can even pimp your Rainbirds.

[spaceman]

Here on the fast one a short update with the comparison of the two T-beams for the back side, which have the same width (1.5 mm) as the H-profiles, left a standard T-beam, and right scratch variant 0.1 mm Styrene.

And the thinner angle beam should be similar uncomplicated. Only the H-beam is a bit trickier, which is why I still have to puzzle out a somewhat simpler assembly technique.

We will see ...

[spaceman]

Hello everyone,

today I have now tried to put theory into practice and to bring the thinner H-profiles on the hood.

And accordingly to the US standards I have adapted the dimensions of the H-profiles to those of W10-beams and have cut for the webs (5'') Styrene strips of 0.1 mm x 1.0 mm and for the upper and lower flanges (0,9'') 0.15 x 1.5 mm.

As spacers for the bottom two strips I have placed an evergreen-H-profile with 2 mm width on the cover, and alongside glued the strips (each with something supernatant) right and left with MEK, first outside, and after removal of the spacer inside,

After trimming of the supernatants now followed the assembly of the profiles from the prepared strips.

As written previously, I first glued the slanted webs on the upper flanges, which were fixed between two steel rulers and then painted from both sides with MEK.

The line-shaped adhesive sites at the 0.1 mm webs are inevitably minimal and have only a limited stability, which is to be considered during the further assembly.

[spaceman]

And now comes the most difficult part of the assembly, this "T-profile" must be placed centrally as well as vertically above the lower strips, and then glued, wherefore this I have used this jig.

The left stopper is a cutter blade, and beside the T-beam, which was carefully fixed with tape under the front edge of the ruler.

In this position, I could now glue the front part with MEK, and then after alignment the rear part.

But because the attachment to the tape strips was quite stressful, I wanted to try to simplify this action with a kind of double-sided adhesive tape strip, at which I have attached the profile.

The alignment of the ruler at the stopper and the gluing of the web went well so far, but then came the flop, because the upper strip began to peel away when the ruler was lifted.

Thats's why I have quitted this method and fixed the profile only with tape strips and glued the web in this position,

what also has worked.

And in a similar way, I then glued also the other profile.

And here for comparison right the cover with the two evergreen H-profiles (1.5 x 1.5 mm) and to the left the Scratch variant that looks still finer in reality than it comes out here in the image.

And also by the somewhat lower height (1.3 mm) of the new W-profiles the Rainbird with this modified hood looks a bit nicer, I imagine at least.

And tomorrow then will follow the rear T-profiles and the lateral angle profiles.

[spaceman]

Hello everybody,

today now to the profiles under the hood, which one due to their "size" barely can handle, which is why this already needs the most pointed tweezers and again a lot of patience.

Here, first the production the angular profiles 1 x 1 mm, for this I have glued a strip 0.15 x 0.9 mm to a strip 0.1 x 1.0 mm, because of the small dimensions all again with MEK. And no matter how you do it, with or without spacers,

one definitely needs a stable support or stopper.

First I have made double the length of two angles, but this is not necessarily recommendable, because the angle section should still be cut to the final length, but this is not so readily when the laboriously glued angle should remain intact.

So one must cut both sides separately with the chisel, because the delicate angle could break due to the minimal adhesive point otherwise,

but this can be avoided.

Here again the comparison of different angle profiles. The two lower angles are scratched, above it a brass profile 1 x 1 mm, wherein the thickness is 0.35 mm, and above it the smallest, also 0.35 mm thick Evergreen Profile 1.5 x 1.5 mm.

Wait a minute ...

[spaceman]

And now to the gluing of the two mini-angles under the hood, which was relatively tricky because of the necessary accurate and secure positioning, because I again wanted to glue with MEK of the small web widths. For this the parts must somehow be fixed, which is rather complicated.

First of all the Rainbird needs a secure hold on a rod. Thereafter, the length of the angle had to be adapted to the space between the hood and screw circle.

Here you can see the mounting device with the angle in the cross tweezers, and for aligning and gluing I had to put on my headset magnifier.

That was all in all again a tricky business, but it has finally worked,

and with the result, I can be more than satisfied, I think.

Now only missing the two rear T-profiles, but they can probably attached something easier, because space is more accessible than under the hood. But without tweezers, etc., it also will not work ...

See you later and thanks for watching.

[K2Pete]

I'm really enjoying this build Manfred.

I think it's because of the precision you're using. Where I would have been quite content to use the Evergreen "H" beam, you have rebuilt it. And all the time you invest in measuring, cutting (precisely), and assembly just amazes me. Plus, the result looks superb!

Thanx for your effort in this build ... keep up this wonderful work!

Pete

[spaceman]

Thanks Pete for your kind words, what I appreciate very much.

But these precision also has its price, because it costs a lot of time and even more patience ...

BTW, one of the problems is the small scale (1:160), which is why I always envy you and the other guys with the larger scales.

And the other problem - or almost a vice - is my attention to detail and the crazy penchant for perfection as well as the ambition to build possible true to scale.

That's why I'm often fiddling for longer time about practicable solutions close to the real thing and set myself deliberately no time limits ...

But your attention to detail and your dexterity are equally terrific and inspire me again and again.

Edited March 1, 2016 by spaceman

[niart17]

I think both of you guys are incredible craftsmen/artists. But I have to agree Manfred, your level of detail and passion for accuracy is a step above. It's awe inspiring. I think your German heritage has something to do with it, but I feel it's much more than just that. My family is of German origin and I also feel the desire to be as accurate as well, BUT I'm much too lazy to put that much effort into achieving it. So yes, please keep up this incredible work.

Bill

[crowe-t]

Manfred,

I have to agree with Pete and Bill, your attention to detail is above and beyond! My rainbirds are quite simple in design compared to what you are doing now. It's so much fun watching this project come along.

BTW, I have German in me on my mother's side and that might be my need to build models. :lol:

Mike.

Edited March 1, 2016 by crowe-t

[spaceman]

Thanks also to you Bill for your words of praise and nice compliments.

Maybe that it really has something to do with the proverbial German thoroughness, who knows ...

BTW, how are your projects, can't wait to see new progress?

[niart17]

BTW, how are your projects, can't wait to see new progress?

I've taken a bit of a break (again) from my shuttle work and starting doing more Sci Fi stuff. I've finished enough models this past year to enter 3 in the local contest, that's the most I've done in a long while. I needed to do some more simple builds and get to completion to get a sense of accomplishment. I'm currently working on a scratch build Oblivion drone in the sci-fi forum and having a blast. I'll get back to the shuttle before too long though. It taunts me when I walk past it sitting on my desk.

Bill

[spaceman]

Okay, from time to time a break and some variety can not hurt. :thumbsup:/>

BTW, I have seen your Oblivion drone, cool idea with the White Polycarbonate Globes.

[spaceman]

Manfred,

I have to agree with Pete and Bill, your attention to detail is above and beyond! My rainbirds are quite simple in design compared to what you are doing now. It's so much fun watching this project come along.

BTW, I have German in me on my mother's side and that might be my need to build models. :lol:

Mike.

Thanks Mike for your nice comment, very interesting!

You'll laugh, but your Birds with more than 100 tiny rods have inspired me, also to try to scratch the tiny screws.

And I had posted at that time: I think you must be crazy, but in a positive sense, and now maybe I'm still a bit crazier ...

[spaceman]

Hello everybody,

With the assembly of the T-profiles it wanted initially not work so well, because their positioning was pretty stressful already during the fitting between the H-profile and the screws ring, let alone only when gluing.

That's why I first times tried the fit with an Evergreen H-beam, especially because the belt protruded outwards even something over the screws circle,

which is why I initially left something supernatant in order to remeasure everything again.

Since the subsequent experiments with the scratched T-beams were not very successful, I simply have rearranged the mounting and built the profile directly at the tube and firstly have glued the webs.

Subsequently I glued the flanges on the webs that have been fixed with tape and then had been aligned.

And so the mounting went really better.

And so would the Rainbird B-1 actually finished,

and looks pretty nice,

especially when one compares it with the paper bird from Maier's Paper kit.

[spaceman]

Let's go.

However, a tiny detail is missing, because all Rainbirds have these two transport-rings on the hood between the H-beams that I wanted to try at least once.

Source: NASA

The diameter should be about 0.7 mm, for which I have cut off these tiny rings from my thinnest insulating tube. Okay, I hear almost your outcry ...

And these crumbs actually still could be glued under the magnifier.

So, it is now well enough of this crazy stuff. Here is a picture of the little bird on the MLP, which was so long not to see.

And so already times a nice weekend.

[ApolloMan]

Coming along very nicely Manfred. I thought you might mould and cast them, to ease the repetition, might be an idea if anyone else is interested in some

[spaceman]

Thanks Mick for watching,

but as you know, the Rainbirds are all slightly different and therefore moulding and casting is not really worthwhile.

[spaceman]

Hello everybody,

so, now it's about time for the remaining five hoods that should get their H-beams and lifting rings.

For tricky sticking the profile webs on the upper belts I've been thinking this new support, for which I have used these two magnets. They are not as strong as the small neodym magnets which almost the tweezers wrench out of hand when handling next to them.

And with these weaker magnets one can align the clamped webs on the belt very precisely centrally and then glue on both sides with MEK. But because of the creeping behaviour of the MEK along the contact zone one must pay attention to that one not too close comes with the MEK brush to the magnets because the Styrene otherwise remains sticking to it, what surprised me initially.

Therefore one can always glue only a small area, approximately half the length, and must turn the profile and then glue the end, after having readjusted the central position if necessary. So all in all still enough tricky fiddling, but it works well.

Now follows with the glueing of these "T-profiles" on the bottom belt the more difficult part of the exercise. And right next to it are already waiting the tiny lifting rings.

And for this fiddling I have used small ferrite magnets. While the first profile can still relatively easy be fixed between two stops, aligned and glued,

for the second profile one needs a bit more feeling and patience, in order to position it centrally as well as vertically.

But even that has finally worked out,

and also the glueing of the small lifting rings with CA,

and so again a small step was taken.

In the next round it goes back to the tricky "cartridge belts". :wacko:

Edited March 18, 2016 by spaceman

[spaceman]

Hello everybody,

caution! Now it might be shot sharply, and thus fire at will! The ammunition is ready for the next "cartridge belts".

And thus again the same procedure, as usual, first the insertion of the 0.5 mm rods in the templates, and then gluing the inner strips (0.25 x 0.75 mm) with MEK.

Thereafter, the rods can be cut in the middle,

and then be shortened on both sides to 0.75 mm overhang.

And these are the double sided screws-rings for the Rainbird B-2,

which is almost identical to the Bird B-1.

Source: NASA

Then for all a nice weekend.

[spaceman]

Hello everybody,

today the cartridge belts for Rainbirds B-3 and B-4 are to scratch, which are standing in the Blast Deck.

Source: NASA

These Birds unlike the three next to the SRB Holes have only one double flange with screws above, but at the foot only one flange with screws, how here again can be seen.

Source: flickr.com (Andrew Scheer)

The procedure for the double screw rings was the same as for the first two Birds.

This time for the single lower flanges Evergreen strips 0.25 x 0.5 mm were glued,

and then the outer ends were shortened to the screw length (0,75 mm).

Subsequently, the inner rods were cut directly behind the strips, and that's about it already.

And here from left to right, the finished "cartridge belt" pairs for the Birds B-2 and B-3 and B-4.

And because the small series production is running stably in the ammunition factory, tomorrow follow the cratridge belts for the two thicker Birds A-1 and A-2, which become a little bit longer due to the larger tube diameter, at the bottom Ø 8.0 mm and at the top Ø 6.3mm.

Edited March 22, 2016 by spaceman

[spaceman]

Hello everybody,

the nightmare with the "cartridge belts" unfortunately is not over yet, but now the belts for the two central Rainbirds A-1 and A-2 are prepared and so this tricky and stressful chapter finally completed.

This are the screws rings on the upper tubes with Ø 6,3 mm, all fine fixed by magnets and with the support strips (0.25 x 0.75 mm) placed for the MEK gluing.

Here the strips are already glued and the grid can be further processed.

After removing of the templates the overlap can be reduced on both sides to 0.75 mm.

Left are the top two belts for the Birds A-1 and A-2, and on the right for comparison for the leaner Birds B-3 and B-4.

And this become the two lower belts on the thicker tubes with Ø 8,0 mm for the Birds A-1 and A-2.

Here they are now cropped step by step,

for the lower ring with overlap (0.75 mm) on one side,

and for the top ring on both sides.

These are the two bottom screws belts for the Birds A-2 (left) and A-1 (right),

and here the two pairs for the Bird A-1 (left) and A-2 (right).

And so it is finally done.

Edited March 24, 2016 by spaceman

[spaceman]

These are from left to right all the "cartridge belts" pairs for the remaining five Birds B-2, B-3 and B-4, as well as A-1 and A-2.

And when they are now lying there, the laborious sweaty detail work can be imagined hardly.

Therefore I am glad that this ordeal is now over and the mounting can follow.

[spaceman]

Hello everybody,

after the recreative Easter break, it will now go on with the Rainbirds. Because I did not immediately want to continue with the "Cartridge belts" and have needed some change, I have intensively considered the central Rain Bird A-1 with the four cute flange tubes and thought how I could possibly scratch it.

On most pictures one can see only revision openings on the flange tubes, which are closed with 12 screws,

Source: NASA

but in a photo stream of Andrew Scheer I have found a picture in the opened state.

Source: flickr.com (Andrew Scheer)

A somewhat bold idea I have had already. But in order to test this, one needs the dimensions of the parts, which are the flange tube with the covers and bolts and a corresponding 1:1 sketch.

The size of the flange and cover can be relatively easily determined from frontal shots like this, by using the diameter of the lower tube with Ø 7.9 mm as reference, which would be approx. 3.5 mm. For that I can use my Punch & Die Set again.

This results in a diameter of the bolt circle of Ø 2.9 mm and for screws Ø 0.4mm, which already shows how tiny these parts would be again.

Source: NASA

Somewhat more difficult it is with appropriate images, where one can see the lateral structure of these flange tubes undistorted for determination of the dimensions. Since most photos, such as the first image above, show the Rainbird more or less from oblique perspectives, these photos can not be used unfortunately. But in a NASA streetview panorama I have found a usable lateral view and so I was able to determine the length of the flange tube as well as the thickness of the flange and cover, and the gap between them, inclusive the screw length.

Source: NASA

So I have drawn this sketch (1:1), where the bird A-1 already looks a lot smaller than on the pictures.

And now to the flange with cover and 12 screws and my conception for scratch-building these parts.

First, I have drawn the layout of the bolts on the flange cover something enlarged, and then this graphic was reduced to Ø 3.5 mm, in which for further procedure actually only the bolt circle (Ø 2,9 mm) is important. From this bolt circle I wanted to create me a transparent mask for transmitting the positions of the 12 screws onto the cover (Ø 3.5 mm x 0.2 mm) as well the flange (Ø 3.5 mm x 0.5 mm), in order to drill them out, but the procedure somehow appears to be adventurous, right? And into the holes of the discs I then wanted to glue the bolts (Ø 0.4 mm) with a little supernatants, insofar as to my idea or theory.

Edited April 6, 2016 by spaceman