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Space Shuttle Launch Pad 39A with Challenger STS-6 (1:144)


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And as I said, so done. The paper template of the bolt circle (Ø 2,9 mm), I have carefully pierced with a needle on a transparent film and then drilled with a drill (Ø 0.35 mm), which was not easy and less funny and sometimes went wrong. :gr_hail:

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Far more difficult was drilling of the cover with applied template that can easily slip,

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which may lead quickly to excentric bolt circles or waste. :woot.gif:

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But this cover here is quite well succeeded already. top2.gif

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And here I have threaded two small rods Ø 0,3 mm, which unfortunately are somewhat too thin. But there are no rods with Ø 0.4 mm, and for Ø 0,5 mm will probably not be enough space on the 2.9 mm bolt circle. gruebel.gif

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Maybe there are other options too, but for today it should be enough. up040577.gif

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Enjoying your progress! By the way, I find it easier to drill out the holes first before cutting the disc. Otherwise the drill tends to push the holes outward and make those tiny bumps along the disc edge, or even cut through the edge due to lack of support material.

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Hi CJ,

I fully agree with you, that's a tricky problem. :hmmm:

I have not tried it yet, but it might be difficult to accurately hitting the center with the Punch Set. :woot.gif:

Perhaps one would have to cut out the disk manually after drilling.

But maybe I have to consider another method willy-nilly ... denknf8.gif

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Hi all,

so I still have fiddled a bit more. :coolio:

To illustrate the dimensions of the individual parts of the flange tube here is my assessment as far as one can still realise it. As the reference measure I've used the diameter of the upper tube Ø 6,3 mm.

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Source: NASA

Here I have further tried this tricky variant, have transferred the bolt circle (Ø 2,9 mm) in the same manner onto the flange (Ø 3.5 mm x 0.5 mm) and subsequently drilled out, but that was pretty difficult to do without slipping away. :gr_hail: And then I threaded rods with Ø 0.3 mm as screws dummies into the holes of both discs, but as I said, which are unfortunately a bit too thin. :rolleyes:

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Anyway, this procedure is feasible, but is all in all a very elaborate method. :woot.gif:

That's why I tried yet another variant with stamped discs, for which I have used the smallest punch (Ø 0,6 mm) of my Punch Set.

Here one can see the flange (0.5 mm) with the cover (0.2 mm), both Ø 3.5 mm, in between I have placed a slightly smaller disk (0.1 mm) for the gap. Thus, the flange with cover incl. gap has a total thickness of 0.8 mm, which fits well. :coolio:

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Then I started to glue these small discs with MEK,

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Then I started to glue these small discs MEK, but quickly noticed that the distances on the bolt circle are not sufficient, what was to be feared. :wacko: With smaller discs of Ø 0.3 to 0.4 mm but this variant would be feasible too, but I would have to cut tiny discs from corresponding rods. :unsure:

Czech Master's Kits (CMK ) offers some great kits with small rivets and even hexagonal screw heads with drill template and drill, but unfortunately only down to minimal Ø 0.8 mm. :rolleyes:

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But through my Punch & Die Set I had yet another idea. :thumbsup: Why I should not try to reverse the principle and not to glue the screw heads, but to press them with a thin stamp into the Styrene sheet but without to pierce it, so similar to the rivet wheels of aircraft modelers?

And so I have tested it on a sheet (0.2 mm), for which I have clamped a drill with Ø 0.4 mm reversed and then gently pressed with its backside into the Styrene. And the result has pleasantly surprised me, as one can see here, because it looks pretty well and usable.

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And this technique, I then tried on a cover (Ø 3.5 mm), without exactly mark the positions, only drawn by eye.

This here is the underside with the imprints,

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and here the top side with the screw heads.

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And this result might please already, right?

But since the flange-disc (0.5 mm) unfortunately is too thick for this technique, I must still find any other solution therefor. :hmmm:

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Hello friends,

and this variant I've tried, and the result, I will show you shortly. :coolio:

Here's another stamped cover,

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and here already the finished composite flange with cover. :thumbsup:

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Now only missing the flange tubes (Ø 1.8 mm), which I have stamped from 1 mm styrene.

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And so the first of four flanges with cover and 24 screws is completed.

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And here is a first test on the knitting needle, that will be used for the lower tube and the conical midsection.

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I think it's okay so far. up040577.gif

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Hello everybody,

so strictly speaking, I move with the screws on the flange/cover close to the limit of what is meaningfully feasible, especially since they are hardly visible to the naked eye from some distance. :rolleyes: But even the smallest edges produce a visible shadow casting. And since I have started this crazy thing with the screws, I will finish it too. :coolio:

Sometimes I have indeed even myself problems to identify which discs have the stamped screws already, and which not, and therefore I always need my headset magnifier for this work. lupe.gif

This concerns, for example, in particular the screw heights that should be only about 0.1 mm (cover) or 0.2 mm (flange), what can be quickly exceeded during stamping. But meantime I have a very good feeling in the hands, and if necessary, the height of the protrusions can be even aligned a bit in the sliding caliper.

A few small changes I've made. So the flange-tubes now are built by gluing together two discs with Ø 1.0 and 0.5 mm, each 0.5 mm thickness, which is a bit closer to the real thing. And the rear bolts of the flange I have stamped now on discs (Ø 3.5 mm) with 0.25 mm thickness, because the thinner discs (0.2 mm) are slightly bulged at the edges by stamping. :gr_hail:

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Therefore, I have gently bent back the stamped discs over an opening of the punch set in order to compensate the edge bulge, as best as possible.

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Then I have glued the flange-tubes on the stamped flange,

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then I have glued the flange-tubes on the stamped flange, and then a 0,2 mm thick disc (Ø 3,5 mm) on the front in order to get the required thickness.

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Then the distance discs for the gap were glued to the flanges and then finally the stamped covers in front of them.

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And now the four tiny flange tubes with a total of 96 screws are finally completed. :tnumbsup:

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And therefore I can now actually soon carry on with the construction of Rainbirds A-1, to which they belong. :coolio:

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Thanks Mike for you nice words, :worship:

you can assess it best because you speak from our own experience with your tiny rainbirds, I can still remember me well. :thumbsup:

And also many thanks to you Pete. :worship:

The fantastic work you both and the other guys have done on your models was always invaluable for me and a welcome inspiration for my own work.

Thanks again guys for all the support! up040577.gif

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Hello everybody,

so, now I want to start with the nice Rainbird A-1.

And these are the most important parts of this that I have already prepared. This is the knitting needle for the lower tube (Ø 7.9 mm) with the conical midsection and the upper tube (Ø 6.3 mm), the completed flange covers, the two screw belts, as well as the recently completed flange-tubes. :coolio:

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First, I've cut out the opening in the top tube, which was this time a little easier because it extends across the half tube.

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After that I marked out the length of the conical part of the knitting needle and tried to trim it onto the inner diameter of the upper tube (Ø 5.9 mm) by using a cordless screwdriver, because a small turning machine I have unfortunately not (yet). :rolleyes: But with the cutter-chisels as turning tool did not work, because it is too weak and too resilient. :woot.gif:

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So only the rasp has worked well, a somewhat rustic technique, but quite successfully. :thumbsup:

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Consequently some of rework was necessary, but ultimately I reached the required diameter,

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and so I could test the tube.

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Now the reference length was marked at the rear end and then was made the slope (8°) for the cover,

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and the same procedure again for the rear Rain Bird A-2, so that it is also well worthwhile. cool.gif Finally, both parts were still glued together.

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Wait a minute please.

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And then should follow the screw belt in proven manner, I had initially pinned to the back side with CA and wanted to glue it roundly. But then I suddenly was rather suprised when I wanted to put the belt around the tube. :woot.gif:

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omgsign.gif So I had actually used the longer belt for the larger diameter of the lower tube. :doh: Good thing I had not even further glued because the thin retaining strip would not have survived peeling. i5684_no2.gif But the first millimeter could still be replaced without prejudice.

And then the same procedere with the proper belt, :coolio:

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which fit almost perfectly, except the last bolt, which no longer had enough space. :hmmm:

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So the last bolt had to be removed once again in order to make slightly up space in the gap.

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And with this result I could be satisfied again. :thumbsup:

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So, now can also follow the lower screws-belt. up040577.gif

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Hello friends, here comes already the next update. cool.gif

On the upper screw-belt was still missing the cover strip for indication of the flange which was now glued step by step.

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And for the exact separation of the overlapping and gluing of the strip at the end the big magnifier was needed. spiegel-smilies-0002.gif

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Insofar as this ring looks already well, now only the gaps need to be filled with wood glue.

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And then came the lower belt's turn, but first its position had to be marked at the foot.

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Then also this belt was glued stepwise. happy.gif

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After this was successfully done, I have already placed provisionally the two flange tubes and was surprised because it looked quite cool. speak_cool.gif

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After also the lower cover strip was glued, also the cover should come on top. tach.gif

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And there the A-1 is standing now and waiting for the next step, probable now the angular profiles in addition to the opening and the T-beams on the back will follow, and finally then the four flange tubes. top2.gif

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And finally, a look at the nice couple from A-1 and B-1.

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So much for today. up040577.gif

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Thanks James for your nice words, bow.gif

but the better question might be, how far it is away ... LOL.gif

As I've said it before, I have set no deadline for this long-term project, which is why I can not give an exact answer, but a few years certainly ... :whistle:

Therefore be curious and further stay tuned. up040577.gif

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Hello together

today it is the turn to the profiles under the cover at the top. :coolio: The first step was again the scratch building of the two angled profiles (1 mm x 1 mm) beside the opening. Large explanations are not required today, because these are the known sequences from the Rain Bird B-1 substantially, which have been described in detail there. But there are a few more pictures. :thumbsup:

The only difference is that at the A-1 both the angled profiles and the T-beams protrude slightly over the screw belts, and therefore the inner webs are cut out there,

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Source: NASA

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which was to take into account, of course.

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And after the left side, then the right side.

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This was followed by the two rear T-beams, I have built up again separately, first the two webs,

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and then the straps.

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And for size comparison my lucky cent should not be missed. :yahoo:

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Edited by spaceman
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And the front flange tubes complete the picture impressively, but which are only laid up. :coolio:

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Well, but so the flanges can not be glued, because a tiny trifle is still missing. :woot.gif:

Each of the four flange covers has two such handles as you can see in the picture, and that must not be missed. :coolio:

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Source: NASA

These covers in the photos look relatively harmless, but these things are not made of cardboard. :gr_hail: In my estimation, they have a real diameter of about 55 cm, are made of steel about 3 cm thick and should weigh about 50 kg, so the pad guys could vigorously grip when had to be opened, and therefore these handles are there.

As the handles should have a real diameter of about 16 mm, one gets in 1:160 about 0.1 mm, which corresponds only about a hairbreadth. erschrocken3.gif Therefore for comparison beside the brass wire (Ø 0.1 mm) I have layed a precious gray hair of mine that is still a bit thinner.

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And so one of these handles would look. analintruder.gif

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Let's see if I can make it, that would be a good laugh ... up040577.gif

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Hello everybody,

well begun is half done, and therefore I have courageously started with the assembly of the handles. cool.gif But the insertion of the handles (Ø 0.1 mm) into the 0.1 mm narrow gap between the cover and the flange already needs getting used to, which is why it is advisable to widen the gap previously slightly with a razor blade.happy.gif

This seemed to work well after several attempts, and as a spacer I've then inserted an evergreen strip 0.5 mm x 1 mm, so that the handle height is always the same. And in this state, I then glued the handle at the ends with tiny CA droplets with the acupuncture needle,

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which has relatively worked well and looks already quite passable. a040.gif

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For safe handling I had previously reflected about a stable holder for the flange tube and had prepared a scissor tweezer with a disc (Ø 1.8 x 1 mm) so as not to make flat again the screws on the cover. rolleyes.gif And even when cutting the ends one has to ensure that the handle not fly away, flehan.gif which is why I glued it on a tape.

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And as already mentioned, the widening of the gap before inserting the handle may be very helpful. ja.gif

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The insertion of of the handle into the gap was expectedly quite stressful, and I was glad when I had made it on one side without buckling the tiny fragile part. rolleyes.gif The other side then you have to direct very carefully until you hit thus into the gap. Then the spacer is inserted and the handle was gently sunk down to the stop, all pure nerve thing. analintruder.gif

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And after that was done, I could breathe easily again, and was pleased with the result. hurrah.gif

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And so the image of the A-1 is rounding itself out more and more, top2.gif

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and I can deal me in peace with the next handles. up040577.gif

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Hello everybody,

today the other three flange tubes should get their handles, which I have bent this time under a steel rule with suitable thickness (1.3 mm) that yielded uniform grip widths what mattered to me. cool.gif

niuEic.jpg

The insertion of the handles was not less stressful than the first time, shocked.gif but now this tinkering is finally managed and I feel relieved. top2.gif

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And here's the trying on of the flanges on the front, but still not glued and therefore lying. rolleyes.gif

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Tomorrow I will then glue the flanges on both sides, and then there is finally seeing a few still images. up040577.gif

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And when I think that you can't add any more fine details ... you do something like this!

Manfred ... this is so-o-o very well done! ... your eyes must be very young! :whistle:

Pete

Edited by K2Pete
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