spaceman Posted May 24, 2016 Author Share Posted May 24, 2016 But that is not enough, because for the holders of the arcuate outlets of both ring lines into the SRB-shafts are needed in each case 12 of these supports (in the sketch blue) which are standing on the Blast Shields. Source: NASA They have a slightly different substructure, but in any case I need 24 of these tiny sickle-shaped supports, I'm looking forward already. And here I also have arranged the six pretty Rainbirds to complete the picture. And so now follow the four rear 18'' outlets (Ø 3 mm), for which I have drawn this sketch. These are admittedly not tapered, but fivefold bent, and are ending below the SRB Supports. Source: NASA And because I need four of these tortuous "earthworms", for this purpose a balsa template will be worthwhile again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
K2Pete Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 I was looking at my 1/144 MLP and trying ... really trying ... to understand how on earth you are getting all this tiny, tiny detail for your 1/144 MLP. Your photos are are of such high quality that it makes us think you're building a much, much bigger model. Rather than using the euro coin for scale, maybe you could show it in one of your hands ... The quality of this build, Manfred, is far superior to any other build on this entire ARC website. This build of yours is ... re-mark-able! ...... or maybe you really ARE building a much much bigger model and using a "coin" that is actually 10 cm in diameter! Thanx Manfred Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted May 24, 2016 Author Share Posted May 24, 2016 Hi Pete, and thanks for your overwhelming compliments, that makes me really sheepishly. I understand your jokes with the bigger model and Euro-cent coin, but it's really genuine and has a diameter of 16.2 mm, what you can compare on the 10 mm screen of the cutting mat. BTW, your 1/144 MLP would interest me already, can you show some pics? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
K2Pete Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 BTW, your 1/144 MLP would interest me already, can you show some pics? :worship:/> My MLP is just the kit part, Manfred ... I haven't done anything to it <_< Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crowe-t Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 My MLP is just the kit part, Manfred ... I haven't done anything to it <_</> Pete, are you referring to the Revell MLP? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
K2Pete Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 Pete, are you referring to the Revell MLP? Yes ... the one with the tracked trucks attached Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted May 26, 2016 Author Share Posted May 26, 2016 Hi Pete, surely you know, that this Mini-MLP by Revell is only 1:200. My MLP is 1:160. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted May 26, 2016 Author Share Posted May 26, 2016 Hello everybody, let's get started with the first act of the new bending orgy. ere once again the sketch of the 18'' outlet as a basis for the template, in which I have drawn already the pipe support on the SRB-Blast Shield, to this but later. This time, the bending process is not as easy as with the ring line, in which it only once went all-around. Therefore, this template (left in the image) can be used only for the upper rounding and the subsequent outlet, whereby a consistent holding is very important. And during the stepwise bending then the hot air gun takes action. This is the intermediate result, which seems to be quite useful, only the short piece after the upper arch should actually be still a bit flatter, but it could not be aligned close enough. But it became probably something too hot for my fingers. Now the supernatant part can be separated and then the junction be rounded. In order to bend the following short slant it must be re-clamped. For this the rod must be aligned with the balsa triangle narrow to the slant. After fixation of the triangle with the pins it must be blow-dried again, and only after cooling, the clamps can be removed. Thereafter, the rod should should fit snugly and not splay back again. And then follows the second bending downwards, whereto I yet again have re-clamped and used a more stable board with slanted corner. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted May 26, 2016 Author Share Posted May 26, 2016 And this is the preliminary result, which can be quite impressive. Now only the final bending til below the SRB support is missing, for which I still have to determine the distances and dimensions. Source: NASA And now a short outlook at the initially mentioned pipe supports under the outlets. Source: NASA In this picture all looks again relatively easy, the triangular base as well as the sickle shaped brackets, similar to those at the supports for the 24'' ring line. But if one now outlines the real proportions in model scale, then this part shrinks considerably. And so I will let it go at that for today. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted May 28, 2016 Author Share Posted May 28, 2016 (edited) Hello again, I will tell you briefly what else happens, not much, but still gave it to me some new impressions and insights. The last bending of the 18'' outlet obliquely inwards til under the SRB Support was missing still, for which the outlet again was firmly clamped in with balsa boards, and was then bent in the hot air stream. Then I have the bent outlet temporarily hanged in the chamber and viewed from all sides, as well as compared with the reference pictures, whereby I have noticed a few things. Thereby the 18'' outlet (Ø 3 mm) optically seems to be a bit too small compared to the 24'' ring line (Ø 4 mm), which is why I still will do a second attempt with an Evergreen rod Ø 3,2 mm. Sometimes making a few tenths already something. Furthermore the top arc is to me altogether a little bit too round, because the slant to the vertical part is too little marked. And then the last bending til below the slant of the SRB support lies a little too far below, namely further than it looks in the picture, what I'll check in more detail. Finally, I have tried to scratch the outlet opening at the end of the line, Source: NASA whereto I have simply flattened the 3 mm rod with pliers, which would almost suffice already. Okay, that's all not earth-shattering, but maybe I could make it still a bit better. Edited May 28, 2016 by spaceman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
falcon20driver Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 Unbelievable. The skill and talent you display is something I can't even fathom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted May 29, 2016 Author Share Posted May 29, 2016 (edited) Thanks for your nice compliment, it all comes only little by little, and skill comes with practice, folks say in Germany. Edited May 29, 2016 by spaceman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted June 3, 2016 Author Share Posted June 3, 2016 Hello everybody, and for these pipe supports at the rear 18'' outlets I have now tried some variants. Source: NASA Here are some Evergreen profiles that come into question. And these are from top to bottom a 4 mm angle profile, a 2.5 mm channel, and the same profile, in which I have sanded the lateral webs in the front region down to a profile height of 0.75mm. To the right already the first four sickles for pipe holders of the upper parts are ready, which I have fastened again in proven manner and have glued with MEK. And this is initially the easiest variant for the triangular substructure, whereto I have glued a 4 mm Evergreen-angle onto a 0.5 mm base plate. But as one can see in the picture, the substructures are actually open at the bottom and have two thin base struts. Source: NASA Therefore I wanted to try a downwardly open variant, and used the sanded down 2.5mm Evergreen Channel. But therefor one has to deal immediately with miter cuts, which also must have the same length, what is easier said than done. And then the slanted struts (0.25 x 0.75 mm) have to be glued, but this one is still too wide and is located too far up, since the angle must be sitting on the struts. Therefore, an Evergreen-Strip certainly should be better suited 0.25 x 0.5 mm. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted June 3, 2016 Author Share Posted June 3, 2016 So I've been thinking about another possibility and have chosen this strip 0,25 x 0,5 mm for building of a thin frame. But after the first two frame strips were glued laboriously separately, I had to realize that this could be no viable method obviously. But then I benefited that this thin strip can actually bend without breaking, which I have previously already experienced with similar strips. So I have removed these two strips and started a new attempt, in which I wanted to try to bend the strip into a small frame and to glue under the angle. Although these are only tiny contact points, but with MEK it works well, but if they can withstand the bending, remains to be seen. And with this bending it should be continued tomorrow, thereby I should benefit from another detail of these supports, which I previously wanted to leave off. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted June 5, 2016 Author Share Posted June 5, 2016 Hi there, and thus to this support detail, although this every now and then was catched in my eye, but it was not previously appeared as so important to me and I therefore omit wanted. That are these welded stiffening plates, which are barely visible in this picture of MLP-3. Source: NASA In this photo from the MLP-2 one can see them more clearly, but also recognizes that there are obviously different forms. Source: NASA And these plates vary actually from MLP to MLP and are themselves neither uniformly on a MLP on all supports, nor on the front and back of individual supports, what can be quite confusing at the moment. Therefore, I have henceforth concentrated myself only on images from the MLP 2, and there are also supports (the left 18'' outlet) mounted on the top which still have an additional third stiffening plate. Source: NASA And these plates I have availed for bonding a filigree frame of a 0.25 x 0,5 mm strip, because without one, though minimal, bearing surface it would be probably become nothing. For the plates at the base I have cut narrow strips of 0.1 mm Styrene and glued it onto the angle with MEK. And on these strips, I have glued the frame strip (0.25 x 0.5 mm), And on these strips, I then glued the frame strips (0.25 x 0.5 mm), then I've cut the overhanging strips. And then, at the corner followed the first bend and bonding of the frame on the narrow side, etc. all around. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted June 5, 2016 Author Share Posted June 5, 2016 One just have to pay attention to solid support surfaces, then it will work, even if it is rather fidgety. After this also the second Support variant with an open bottom was finished and is presented here with the first variant. Now may be glued even the plates on the back. And now also the top part with the sickles was glued, thus the support would be completed. And the fitting of the first support on the MLP should not be missing. Accordingly, I will stay with this variant, since the envisaged channel variant therefore has become superfluous. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
K2Pete Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 I'm still watching. The precision you're achieving is ... simply ... awe inspiring! This is so much fun to watch! :lol: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted June 6, 2016 Author Share Posted June 6, 2016 Thanks Pete for your flattery, I am pleased if you have so much fun. Cheers my friend! BTW, in fact, this support is really so small that I have to put it in a safe place so that it does not sink in the rest of rummage on the table. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Modeler7 Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 I haven't posted in awhile to say this build is just my favorite to follow on line. Ever! Manfred is knocking it out of the park with his skills. It actually inspired me to scratch build more and try new things to increase my skill set. Thanks for sharing this with us and keeping us informed. Just awesome! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Slartibartfast Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 (edited) Manfred, if you wish to expand your English vocabulary, the "sickles" are called cradles (Wiegen, according to Google translate). Yes, the little rocking baby bed. Fantastische Arbeit! Edited June 7, 2016 by Slartibartfast Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted June 7, 2016 Author Share Posted June 7, 2016 (edited) I haven't posted in awhile to say this build is just my favorite to follow on line. Ever! Manfred is knocking it out of the park with his skills. It actually inspired me to scratch build more and try new things to increase my skill set. Thanks for sharing this with us and keeping us informed. Just awesome! Thanks for your nice words. Then you are on the right track, at first the same happened to me, as I was amazed about the models of other guys. Just have courage and try to imitate it, and you will see, from time to time it becomes better and your skill will be improved. Only never give up and not lose heart, even if it does not immediately succeed the first time. Edited June 7, 2016 by spaceman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted June 7, 2016 Author Share Posted June 7, 2016 Manfred, if you wish to expand your English vocabulary, the "sickles" are called cradles (Wiegen, according to Google translate). Yes, the little rocking baby bed. Fantastische Arbeit! Thanks for you compliment and the nice tutoring. OK, if you like. Cradles or pipe beds, it is important that you know what I mean. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted June 8, 2016 Author Share Posted June 8, 2016 Hello friends, as I had already indicated, with the first bend test of the 18'' outlet I was not completely satisfied, because the upper bend downwards to the kink total still was too round what was due to the template. In reality, the piece above the support is until to the edge of the Blast Shield but straight, as one can see here. In the meantime I've also bought Evergreen Rods Ø 3.2mm. In order to get the bend at the second time right, I have bevelled the slight arc of the template, as well as choosen a different bending sequence and initially bent this kink only, whereby the top piece is straight. And this straight piece now I have extra strongly fixed, so that it during the subsequent bending of the upper arc also remains straight. That was the whole trick, and this has worked actually. Then I have tested how this looks in the SRB chamber, and I must say, much better. Then followed the lower bendings, for which everything was fixed bombproof again, what was worthwhile, as becomes clear by comparing the two outlets. The first outlet was downwards even a bit too long, what I have also corrected. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaceman Posted June 8, 2016 Author Share Posted June 8, 2016 And with this fitting now I'm more than satisfied, and can finally give rest. And so I will now also scratch the remaining three of these outlets even before then follow the outlets with the tapers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikkod Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 So much win. Oh my gosh. Truly amazing work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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