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Hello friends,

 

then I'll continue with my pull-ups on the LO2 Umbilical. cool.gif But before I'll bend the end piece of the GO2 Press. Line, at first still to a last detail, which I wanted to leave out first, because I did not think it was that important.  rolleyes.gif

 

And that's this Bracket for guiding/stabilizing the Press. Line, which is mostly hidden on the photos and not completely visible,  hmmm.gif

 

LFInmx.jpg
Source: forum.nasaspaceflight.com (DaveS)

 

which is why I had to feel my way step by step, i.e. image by image.  huh.gif

 

In this photo one can see the oblique position on the inside of the Cable Tray, but otherwise one is groping in the dark. cant-believe-my-eyes-smiley-emoticon.gif

 

w8dj8x.jpg
Source: NASA

 

Here one can see already in more detail that these are two thin narrow struts, which are connected at both ends, 

 

rLfUBT.jpg
Source: forum.nasaspaceflight.com (Jester)

 

what one can also see in this picture, from which I have determined the necessary dimensions.  speak_cool.gif 

 

0E49xv.jpg
Source: NASA

 

On my first try, I glued Evergreen Strips (0,25 mm x 0,75 mm x 5 mm) together, using Strips (0,25 mm x 0,4 mm) as a spacer. But since the spacing for the Press. Line-Nickel silver rod (Ø 0,4 mm) seemed to be a bit too small, 

 

CFejMn.jpg

 

I've adjusted it for the second try by gluing Strips (0,25 mm x 0,5 mm),

 

hz1R3e.jpg

 

dejLGd.jpg

 

what comes already closer to the real conditions and looks better.  cool.gif

 

UrSvxF.jpg

 

When test fitting the bracket, however, it turned out that it was a bit too long, since it should end at the height of the upper ring on the Feedline

 

mmJscM.jpg

 

that's why I've shortened it by one strip width (0,5 mm),

 

PCPkj4.jpg

 

which looks more pleasing,

 

FBkzXj.jpg

 

and above all fits better into the mould, and thus could be glued in this position by means of MEK.  speak_cool.gif

 

HRBILv.jpg

 

With that I can now bend the end piece of the GO2 Press. Line and its three Fittings, what should be a bit simpler than at the GH2 Press. Line on the other side, I hope at least.  up040577.gif

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Hello everybody,

 

so then to bending and installation of the end piece of the GO2 Press. Line. cool.gif

 

First of all, it is necessary to know the preliminary end point of this gas line in order to be able to start bending, but this time it is relatively easy, since behind the last Ice Frost Ramp from the Newware Kit (R25) there are only two bends in the pipe. 

 

rLfUBT.jpg
Source: forum.nasaspaceflight.com (Jester)

 

That's why I've used again my often shown ingenious Reference drawing from the recommendable ET Bible (System Definition Handbook SLWT - Lockheed Martin), from which one can take the exact location of the GO2 Press. Line (light blue) and of the GH2 Press. Line (red) direct next to the LO2 Feedline (dark blue). speak_cool.gif

 

bTjoId.jpg
Source: System Definition Handbook SLWT, Vol. II (Lockheed Martin)

 

And these three angles I've drawn into a 1:144 drawing of the ET cross section, and layed one of the 14 following Ramps (R23), in which both Press. Lines run up to the Intertank. top.gif

 

g3bZea.jpg

 

In this image, in front of it lays the last Ramp (R25), whose position next to the feedline is crucial for bending the GO2 Press. Line. top2.gif

 

SRqEou.jpg

 

In order to determine their position as accurately as possible and to be able to transfer to the ET circumference, I have marked corresponding markings for all three lines on a Masking tape (1 mm)

 

z2K7ol.jpg

 

This tape I've glued onto the ET and then threaded a short piece of the Press. Line (Nickel silver Ø 0,4 mm) through the Umbilical plate and the Bracket , as well as provisionally layed a longer piece of the line onto the tank.  

 

TugFfx.jpg

 

JpfDmO.jpg

 

In order to be able to determine the distances of the lines from each other as well as from the last ramp as exactly as possible, I have threaded the Ramp R25, as well as four Ramps R23 to the front, and have fixed the line in this position with tape. cool.gif

 

t6Yx7V.jpg

 

yeOIge.jpg

 

pp2Xzo.jpg

 

Afterwards the distance of both lines is approx. 2 mm, which agrees well with the distance determined from photos,

 

VJ1lRV.jpg

 

with which I could actually bend the short piece of the line. top.gif 

 

But to relax the eyes stressed out by the macro shots cant-believe-my-eyes-smiley-emoticon.gif is here a look from the normal viewer's perspective. 

 

VNj5FO.jpg

 

And since I was curious, I immediately made a first test-bending with a Copper dummy (Ø 0,4 mm), and as one can see here, the result looks already quite useful. smiley250.gif

 

RgKG6r.jpg

 

TgtSdF.jpg

 

hzl0Xd.jpg

 

Similarly, I'll now next bend the same line piece of Nickel silver (Ø 0,4 mm) and then also attach the three Fittings made of insulating tube, wherewith then the LO2 Umbilical would have been finished.  up040577.gif

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Hello friends,

 

today I have bent the end piece of the GO2 Press. Line made of Nickel silver (Ø 0,4 mm). But as one can see, while bending the wire in the tweezers too sharp bends arise in comparison to the copper wire, which is much more flexible (ductile), what I did not particularly like. rolleyes.gif

 

PWfSWy.jpg

 

That's why I've used my round-nose pliers, and lo and behold, then therewith gentler curves succeed,  speak_cool.gif

 

3Ir800.jpg

 

just as one can see it on this photo.  

 

up068262.jpg
Source: NASA

 

Then the test fitting on the Umbilical came, which was expectedly tricky, because I had to thread the longer upper part of the wire first from below through the narrow Bracket and then had to insert it into the opening of the Umbilical plate. smiley_worship.gif

 

DEDCUL.jpg

 

Then I also still managed to insert the shorter piece in the rearmost Ramp (R25), in front of which the long GO2 Press. Line had been inserted. top.gif

 

7s1T0R.jpg

 

Then I've also still cut the tiny Fittings from the thin Insulating hose (Ø 0,7 mm) in a known manner,

 

XewQVG.jpg

 

and have subsequently threaded the Press. Line, wherewith I am very satisfied for now.top2.gif

 

G5LhAD.jpg

 

But now the exciting question arises, how I should install this ringed end piece now best, since the upper ring cannot pass the narrow bracket? smiley215.gif 

 

Consequently, the ring must be removed before threading the wire in the holder and then re-fit without breaking off anything around. But how can one does it for heaven's sake in this cramped space, especially since the normal threading is already absolutely stressful,  eek.gif and one has to take care hell-bent, that the tiny midget does not jump? hmmm.gif

 

Therefore good advice is expensive, but maybe someone of you has a good idea that would help me?  huh.gif

 

In this sense, volunteers please step forward!  up040577.gif

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I'm not absolutely certain that I understand your predicament, but  my first thought was to cut the ring in half, attach it, install the wire and glue the other half.

However, I do look forward to seeing your solution ... your solutions are always brilliant!  :worship:

 

Manfreds.JPG.bfc879f4c6e6f0391a3d204264086190.JPG

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Incredible work as always! I am constantly in awe when I check in on your build.

 

As for the fitting problem, this probably wouldn't work as it's soooooo small, but could you possibly temporarily attach the small fitting to the top of that slotted bracket with a low stick glue or something. Then thread the line through the slot and the hole of the fitting, then break the fitting lose and glue in place on your feedline? I don't know if that makes any sense and I know it would work if the part was life size because we've done similar operations in our shop, but working with microscopic parts I'm sure makes it really hard to pull off. Just a thought.

 

Keep up the great work!

Bill

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Thanks Pete and Bill for your nice proposals. :worship:

 

At first, I've also imagined of cutting open the tiny ring with the cutter, and then slipping it like a clip over the installed line at its place close underneath the Umbilical Plate and to glue there. :hmmm:

But the ring is really damn small, approx. Ø 0,7 mm x 0,5 mm, and can hardly be held with the sharpest tweezer. erschrocken3.gif

I do not know, Pete, how small your splitted ring is, but at least it looks a bit bigger, but definitely longer. smiley215.gif

 

But then I've thought about the following bold solution. idea1_2.gif

 

My previous skepticism regarding the threading of the ring on the Press. Line was based on my up to now realized Mounting perspective. But then I came up with the idea to simply reverse the perspective and turn the Attachment upside down.  eek.gif

 

With that, the Umbilical plate lays below, and the ring would not fall down immediately, if one handle it carefully enough to place it over the opening.  up045518.gif

 

And that's exactly what I did. First, I threaded the two lower rings in front of and behind the bend, and then introduced the line from above through the Bracket.  

 

up069973.jpg

 

Then I threaded the upper ring onto a very thin Insect needle (Ø 0,25 mm) and inserted it next to the Bracket into the opening of the Plate

 

up069974.jpg

 

Then I carefully pushed the ring with the cutter tip to the plate and pulled out the needle very slowly, so that the ring came to lie directly on the opening. huh.gif

 

up069975.jpg

 

And then I held my breath and gently inserted the slightly sharpened line with the tweezer through the ring into the opening until the point under the plate appeared, with which my stunt was indeed successful. up053180.gif

 

up069976.jpg

 

And this is how the Attachment on the ET looks from both sides. up046118.gif

 

up069977.jpg

 

up069978.jpg

 

Now the Press. line can still be aligned a bit and glued in this position in the Umbilical plate and with the Bracket, whereby it would then finally fixed. up040577.gif

 

And now I want to sleep for a few more hours ... schlafend3.gif

Edited by spaceman
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Ahhh....good job. So you took the "stand on your head" approach. Sometimes you just gotta look at the world upside down.

 

I swear, whenever it comes time for me to get the gumption and nerve to attempt the 1/100 stack for the Tamiya kit, I think I'm going to use your build more often than using pics of the real thing. Your parts are remarkably life-like and I can follow along as it's in pieces. Awesome work.

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Hello everybody,

 

and after the end piece of the GO2 Press. Line now to the end piece of the GH2 Press. Line, which directly lies next to it and after two bendings runs slantwise upwards in the direction of Crossbeam, as one can see on this image. cool.gif

 

7RpQPt.jpg
Source: NASA

 

With this line I want to proceed the same as with the GO2 Press. Line and initially only bend its end piece from the last Ice Frost Ramp (R24) to the TPS cladding under the Crossbeam, because the continuation of the line on the LH2 Tank until the Fairing on the Intertank should also be installed separately. 

 

In the following image I have used a Steel rod (Ø 0,4mm) for the GH2 Press. Line and threaded it into the back three Resin ramps from the Newware Kit (NW 131)

 

Ns0iWL.jpg

 

On this photo one can see an Original ramp with the two Press. Lines, as well as the LH2 Cable Tray runnig below. 

 

Meca7I.jpg
Source: NASA

 

And already as forward look and for the sake of completeness, in the following image are to see the 17 Ice Frost Ramps on the LH2 Tank , whereby the Ramps 1-14 (R23) are "Double"-Ramps (see previous photo).  

 

 

tI8wsD.jpg
Source: NASA

 

The connection point of this line piece at the TPS cladding under the Crossbeam can be seen in the following photos.

 

yOtJ2c.jpg
Source: NASA

 

ND3ldL.jpg
Source: forum.nasaspaceflight.com (Jester)

 

In this photo one can see in the zoom that in front of the Fitting in front of the TPS cladding also still a small Support is sitting.  huh.gif

 

hqT8Ui.jpg
Source: forum.nasaspaceflight.com (DDG40)

 

And that is this point here on the model, which has unfortunately proved to be too low with detailed review  spiegel-smilies-0002.gif and measurement of the gap to the LO2 Feedline Bracket, rolleyes.gif which is why I had to shorten the TPS cladding very carefully a little bit with a razor blade to create the required space for the little Support. top.gif

 

TAaHuv.jpg

 

And these are the required separates. The small Support I've cut off from the rest of the TPS cladding, in front of it lies the tiny Fitting made of Insulating hose, and in front of them the Cu dummy for the end piece of the Press. Line (Ø 0,4 mm). cool.gif

 

azklOx.jpg

 

And the test fitting of the Press. Line looks already rather well.  up035091.gif

 

IB6nYp.jpg

 

But with that I was again faced with the same problem of threading the tiny Fitting in the space of this gap ... smiley215.gif

 

But meanwhile I have some practice with it, and that's why I have prepared this time again a small Toothpick-Tape holder, as at that time in a similar action at the SSWS on the MLP

 

up054817.jpg

 

at its top of which this time the Fitting hung.  speak_cool.gif

 

Yj0d8D.jpg

 

The threading was again a similarly stressful and shaky matter with held breath as at the GO2 Press. Line, eek.gif but ultimately I was successfully again, as one can see.  up045518.gif

 

bbx08q.jpg

 

Now I can put the Attachment back onto the ET and determine the length of the Press. Line up to the lower two bendings in front of the rear Ice Ramp (R24), which can then be bent. up040577.gif

Edited by spaceman
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Hello everyboy,

 

unfortunately, in the photos one cannot recognize the course of the GH2 Press. Line so good like that of the GO2 Press. Line, which is why I could not measure the length of the slant up to the lower two bendings directly. rolleyes.gif Therefore, after putting the Attachment on the ET, I could only mark the distance to the first bending after a painstaking threading of the dummy across the LO2 Feedline and through the opening of the small Support in front of the TPS Cladding, what a stressful fiddling was. smiley_worship.gif

 

Then I've tried to get made the two bendings with the round tongs in the smallest spaces, especially since their distances are minimal, as can be seen from this image. 

 

4t101W.jpg
Source: georgesrockets.com (George Gassaway)

 

And that's how the bended Copper dummy looked like,

 

czwVZa.jpg

 

which one can see here in the provisionally installed state. cool.gif

 

GE3W18.jpg

 

But somehow the shape and size of the lower bows did not agree, which were a bit too big, smiley215.gif 

 

N9xO19.jpg

 

because, as one can see on this image, the upper bending in front of the slant is much closer to the GO2 Press. Line. huh.gif

 

pZGdBt.jpg
Source: NASA

 

After this first impression, I've immediately took the Steel wire (Ø 0,4 mm) and bent it, but it is much harder and more resistant and therefore more difficult to bend, especially in the lower part of the double bendings, which is why several trials and test fittings were necessary. huh.gif

 

mEBWqB.jpg

 

At that it turned out that one can perform the lower two bendings only halfway accurate, if one leaves at the lower end first a longer end piece in order to be able to bend at all, and this only then shortens accordingly afterwards. top.gif

 

Threading the line was only possible directly at the Attachment

 

0oaH0S.jpg

 

sWwKDf.jpg

 

whereupon it could be put then onto the ET, in order to try then to insert the lower end into the rear Ice Frost Ramp (R24), but what was not successful instantly, because sometimes either the inclination of the slant or its length was not right, or the distances of the lower two bendings, or all together,  what was enough to drive you up the wall ... up043952.gif

 

7LjVkn.jpg

 

Therefore I'll show you the (preliminary) final result after the umpteenth attempt,  yikes.gif

 

jbS9EG.jpg

 

which was then satisfactory. smiley228.gif

 

oHqsAi.jpg

 

Rxri8X.jpg

 

This was followed by (only) still the exercise with the threading of the two Fittings, whereby the action at the lower end still before the threading of the Press. Line under the Crossbeam was comparatively harmless. top.gif

 

Yx7Imv.jpg

 

But then came the critical place in the circled gap, for what the line in front of the support had to be fixed with a mini-tape strip (arrow) in order not to constantly slip out again. shocked.gif And then I've channeled the Fitting ring, which was hanging at the Toothpick-Tape-holder again, into the gap, and carefully inserted the line with the sharpest tweezers, what then sometime has worked again ... speak_cool.gif

 

DLeSUu.jpg

 

But even to photograph these details, some pull-ups and appropriate mountings were needed to get close enough into a suitable position with the digicam,  

 

7sL7V2.jpg

 

ZNcnVo.jpg

 

in which the autofocus (with self-timer) could still focus, as one can see here. smiley192.gif

 

02HWFc.jpg

 

All in all, a rather time-consuming business with the scratching of such tiny details,  cant-believe-my-eyes-smiley-emoticon.gif whereby the joy is even all the greater when it has succeeded in the end.  up040577.gif

Edited by spaceman
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Thanks Mike for your nice compliments, :worship:

 

I'm happy if you like it, but this ET/Orbiter Attachment with its Umbilicals was really one of the trickiest things I've ever scratched. eek.gif 

 

At first I was skeptical if I would be able to do this crazy miniatures, :hmmm: but nothing is impossible if one really wants it. up040577.gif

Edited by spaceman
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Hello everybody,

 

after the two ET/Orbiter Assemblies are now finally completed, there is always still a small line missing, and this is the so-called LH2 Recirculation Line (Ø 4 ''), which can be seen here on the ET-45 (STS-47). cool.gif

 

PXf0Jv.jpg
Source: georgesrockets.com (George Gassaway)

 

The line looks relatively simple and has a slight kink at both ends,

 

NMlU10.jpg
Source: forum.nasaspaceflight.com (DaveS)

 

p6ALe6.jpg
Source: System Definition Handbook SLWT, Vol. II (Lockheed Martin)

 

in front of each time a Protective Shroud sits.  

 

He1Xff.jpg
Source: System Definition Handbook SLWT, Vol. I (Lockheed Martin)

 

And so plain and simple looks this part of the Airfix Kit, whereby the two Shrouds are missing, which is not the end of the world. rolleyes.gif

 

pK5lqX.jpg

 

First, I've tried it again with a Copper dummy (Ø 0,6 mm), and then I've tried to drill out a Rod ( Ø 1,2 mm) for the Shrouds stepwise in the center up to Ø 0,7 mm, which is not that easy with this diameter. huh.gif 

 

e9bNiP.jpg

 

After the temporary installation of the Dummy, which did not cause any problems,

 

z9t6JX.jpg

 

IeSaXT.jpg

 

I've then bent an Evergreen rod (Ø 0,7 mm) for the final line.

 

As already mentioned, drilling out can not be made immediately to the final inner diameter (Ø 0,7 mm), because the drill can slip too easily and does not stay in the center, therefore carefully step by step.  up045518.gif

 

8LNDdF.jpg

 

After that, I've cut off small 0,5 mm wide rings and had to find out that the bore had run eccentrically inwards, so unfortunately only the front ring could be used. rolleyes.gif

 

4kj9V2.jpg

 

Iid1vg.jpg

 

That's why I then drilled out only still 1 to 2 millimeters and then cut off the ring so as not to produce too much rejects. top.gif

 

4VOG3F.jpg

 

And that's how I actually managed to make three useable rings, 

 

afmL5o.jpg

 

and to thread them onto the rod, whereby the line looks significantly better than the Airfix cripple.  speak_cool.gif

 

37V3Oy.jpg

 

But when I kept the result of the test fitting in my sight,  cant-believe-my-eyes-smiley-emoticon.gif I was a little disenchanted, because the line seemed a bit too puny compared to the LH2 Feedline, smiley_worship.gif

 

rsPznS.jpg

 

what I've remembered differently when seeing all the photos ... smiley215.gif

 

up068262.jpg
Source: NASA

 

And when I was brooding about it, idea1_2.gif suddenly it felled from my eyes like scales ...  yikes.gif 

 

Out of power of habit of recent weeks in intensive dealing with the GH2/GO2 Press. Lines, whose diameter is 2" (Ø 0,4 mm/1:144) and which are "naked", i.e. have no TPS cladding, the diameter of the LH2 Recirculation Line of 4'' (Ø 0,7 mm), which was used by me as a reference measure, concerns also only the "naked" stainless steel line, but which still has a 1'' TPS cladding (SS-1171/SLA-561), what results in a diameter of 6'' (Ø 1,0 mm/1:144), what I should have taken into account (see right scaling), up040472.gif

 

VGa1Ta.jpg
Source: georgesrockets.com (George Gassaway)

 

which is why I've then used the corrected dimensions. cool.gif

 

AkNyhL.jpg
Source: capcomespace.net

 

For the new line with the larger diameter (Ø 1,0 mm) I have then punched small discs (Ø 1,5 mm) for the Shrouds with my Punch & Die Set made of Styrene (1,0 mm) ,

 

UK78CF.jpg

 

which I've then drilled out in nine steps from Ø 0,5 mm to Ø 1,0 mm and chamfered,  

 

wtvkh3.jpg

 

and then threaded onto the new bended line that I like much better now. top.gif

 

fcOV00.jpg

 

Then I've drilled out the openings in the Umbilcal Plate as well as in the ET Aft Dome to 1 mm and carefully inserted the line, which now fits much better into the mould, 

 

KGoYOX.jpg

 

as one can clearly see here in the comparison of both variants. smiley250.gif

 

SakURU.jpg

 

Just good thing I've still noticed this lapse and could correct it, cool.gif

 

M13Ei3.jpg

 

because with it now I can finally finish this Umbilical chapter. yahoo.gif

 

1N2jQd.jpg

 

Now only a small detail is missing on the Crossbeam, which still has this cover with the outer slight slants on the top at the front edge, what it also was always good for ...  hmmm.gif

 

q1v5uv.jpg
Source: NASA

 

This last detail I also still want to scratch now, wherewith then the ET/Orbiter Aft Attachment would be complete in my eyes.  up040577.gif

Edited by spaceman
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11 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:

What a journey!

 

Indeed!

 

Manfred ... have you always built models to this incredible level of detail, or is this project a bit of a breakthrough for you? Is this attention to detail, and your enjoyment in building it, something you're just discovering about this hobby?

 

The ET / Orbiter Aft attachment looks superb! I doubt the 3D modelers would have such a successful result!  :worship:  :thumbsup:

 

Pete

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Thanks Bruce and Pete for your nice comments. :Anbetung:

 

This project is not a normal Real Space Modeling Project, for me it is more a kind of a Postgraduate education of the Space Shuttle Program of a retiree obsessed with details,  eek.gifwhose attention to detail scratching has evolved from year to year ... top.gif

 

Speaking of 3D modelers, I've already thought of my friend Joe (crackerjazz) a few times, whether that would have been something for him, :hmmm: but then I would have had to provide him with the appropriate detail drawings erschrocken3.gif that I unfortunately do not have completely. up040577.gif

 

 

Edited by spaceman
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Hello everybody,

 

from the Britmodeller Forum the question came up, if I forgot the Diagonal Cross Strut  hmmm.gif which of course is not the case. But for the sake of simplicity, I had not implemented it up to now, but I made up for it right away. top.gif

 

pUQeId.jpg

 

WLKRWP.jpg

 

And now to the long and narrow cover on the Crossbeam, for which I first determined the dimensions from this photo of the ET-37 (STS-37).  

 

cmHecg.jpg
Source: georgesrockets.com (George Gassaway)

 

As one can see, this is only a narrow thin strip, which increases slightly obliquely on both sides to the outside, which is not so easy to realize in the range of less than 1 mm in height. smiley215.gif  

 

That's why I considered to cut a 0,8 mm wide strip (above) from a thin Evergreen Sheet (0,13 mm) and then to glue it together with the two slants, made from an Evergreen Strip (0,4 mm x 0,75 mm).

 

fDyvpg.jpg

 

Since I've used again MEK, I also had to underlay Teflon foil, so that nothing could glue on. rolleyes.gif Then I've put on the laboriously sanded slants and carefully fixed with the cutter, and then lightly brushed with MEK from both sides, which is sufficient for the gluing.  speak_cool.gif 

 

IU2f8G.jpg

 

And so the cover was already as good as finished, only the transitions of the slants and at the ends, I have the strip a little bit  smoothened. cool.gif

 

P0yg3f.jpg

 

Afterwards, I've glued this strip similarly with MEK onto the Crossbeam, whereby I've glued step by step from one side to the other side.

 

5SrH7e.jpg

 

19eRsa.jpg

 

And as I think, the cover comes out pretty well and it's nothing to sneeze at.  up045518.gif 

 

heDaoU.jpg

 

With this now also this last detail would done.  up040577.gif

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello everybody,

 

after these details on the Micro level, which were surely stressful for the viewer too, rolleyes.gif now again to somewhat larger parts on the ET, which I slowly want to prepare for the SOFI Insulation using the "Flour technique". cool.gif

 

To do this, I first had to recap once again how I wanted to do this with gluing of the ongoing Tape spiral (Barber pole) using the 0,75 mm wide tape strip for simulating the SOFI Pattern Texture. hmmm.gif

 

 Regarding this, I had come to the conclusion at the time that it would be easier to mark the adhesive points for all add-on parts, such as the entire ET/Orbiter Aft Attachment incl. Longerons, as well as Ice Ramps and PAL Ramps, etc. and to make recesses for it on the spiral, before the Flouring process, which are then to be covered separately with tape pieces, and only to glue these parts onto the ET after the tank has been floured, primed and painted, and only to paint the add-on parts finally by hand. smiley215.gif 

 

And now step by step to the missing details on the ET. cool.gif

 

Among other things there was still to be due the extension of the LO2 Feedline, which is too short in the Airfix Kit, which I found to be easier due to the already existing Bracket rings of the Feedline Support Brackets than replacing the complete Feedline including the application of new rings. top.gif  

 

For doing this I've thought about cutting the line in front of the "last" ring, which is actually the penultimate ring, because the last Support bracket in front of the Intertank is missing in the kit as is well known. rolleyes.gif

 

The replacement piece of the line (Ø 3 mm) I drilled out  at the rear end, which thus can be plugged onto the centering pin (Ø 0,4 mm) in the rear part of the line, 

 

VDsmO7.jpg

 

and ends in front flush with the Feedline Fairing on the Intertank.  up045518.gif

 

r5SCaw.jpg

 

7mcXx5.jpg

 

Then I've still glued the front Bracket ring, what for I used an Evergreen Strip (0,4 mm x 0,6 mm), which I had previously bent under hot air around a steel core. 

 

XM1s8p.jpg

 

But right next to these narrow Bracket rings there are also somewhat wider rings, of which the front four are missing on the Airfix Feedline, and these are the so-called LO2 Feedline Bellows, which sit in front of the Support Brackets and are numbered green in the following image. top.gif

 

up067567.jpg
Source: NASA

 

These Bellows enable the Feedline to be balanced by expansion/contraction both during refueling and during flight. For those interested, a NASA Facts PDF is linked in the following image with further information. speak_cool.gif

 

alQ4M2.jpg
Source: NASA

 

The dimensions of this rings I have determined from this image, 

 

TAja9v.jpg
Source: NASA

 

for which I used an Evergreen Strip (0,5 mm x 1 mm), which I wrapped around a steel core and formed into a spiral under hot air, 

 

erRziD.jpg

 

which has also retained its shape even after cooling.

 

SsHH3T.jpg

 

The diameter of the Core wire (Ø 2,5 mm) I've chosen deliberately slightly smaller than that of the Feedline (Ø 3,0 mm), so that the the spiral threaded onto the rest of the feedline fits closely and all I had to do was cutting off the Bellow rings with the razor blade. cool.gif

 

BifcLh.jpg

 

I started with the anterior of the four Bellows right in front of the Intertank, in front of which there is still a narrow ring,

 

QlvP7I.jpg
Source: NASA

 

which I've then also glued. 

 

NaiZl8.jpg

 

And this is what this group looks like on the ET

 

YyjSB0.jpg

 

and just for the fun of it I've have threaded the two Press. Lines, which overall makes a pretty good impression, I think. top2.gif 

 

x1W7Pj.jpg

 

Now I can confidently glue the three rear Bellow rings (2-4), which I hope that the spiral will give the rest, wherewith the LO2 Feedline would be done.  up040577.gif

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Hello friends,

 

meanwhile the remaining three LO2 Feedline Bellows are now glued too, so that the Feedline is now complete. cool.gif

 

SY6YiJ.jpg

 

JPY6bW.jpg

 

Next I've set out to pimp the ET Aft Dome a little bit, that is the rear dome-like end of the tank, in whose Aft Dome Cap there are these two Covers as one can see here on the ET-8 (STS-6),

 

kZckt5.jpg
Source: forum.nasaspaceflight.com (Jester)

 

as well as here on the ET-45 (STS-47)

 

2c4eE4.jpg
Source: georgesrockets.com (George Gassaway)

 

These are the so-called Manholes, of which I did already know the marked Manhole (Ø 36'') from the book "Remove Before Flight", written by my friend Scott Shuttleman Phillips,

 

w6TrNZ.jpg
Source: Scott Phillips

 

through which, after the final inspection and acceptance of the ET-1, he was the last person of his team to leave the tank for the STS-1 Mission and even got handed over the red Remove Before Flight Ribbon by the quality inspector, whereupon he was of course very proud of.  

 

Behind the other Manhole (Siphon manhole) was the so-called Siphon with the Anti-vortex baffles, which should prevent an interruption of the fuel flow to the Main Engines, which can be seen on this indoor shot at the end of the LH2 Feedline next to the open Manhole

 

up070549.xx&oh=e5d84e006206f097927864b07f26bf63&oe=5E7C5A10

Source: Scott Phillips

 

From these Manholes there are three exemplars in the Newware Kit made of Resin (R42)

 

D2euBk.jpg

 

and two as PE parts (P44).

 

hAWk6S.jpg

 

I will use the Resin parts, since their rear is slightly curved, which means that they lie better against the dome.

 

OPyHsc.jpg

 

As one can see from the sketch, the two Manholes are not arranged in the middle, but the exit manhole sits slightly below the middle, the location of which I have marked here on the Aft Dome Cap,

 

xEqlU9.jpg

 

and then both discs were temporarily put onto the dome. cool.gif

 

4ta481.jpg

 

I've glued both Manhole covers with Pattex-CA because the normal Revell plastic glue for gluing Resin parts is not suitable.

 

Mo9VkK.jpg

 

And with that straight to these lighter Closeouts, which can be seen here on the ET-45 (STS-47), and in a similar form also on all ETs, the meaning and purpose of which was initially unclear to me.

 

2EhQsR.jpg
Source: georgesrockets.com (George Gassaway)

 

But since I like to know what the parts I'm building are actually good for, I first have asked my ET expert, Scott Phillips, and also DaveS, which both had a simple explanation for it, for which I've then searched for appropriate photos and also found.  

 

These are the ET's rear contact surfaces/points on the transporter specially designed for him, which I've circled in red in the following image, which can be seen more clearly in the zoom.

 

Sd589f.jpg
Source: NASA

 

Strictly speaking, these are the so-called ET Aft Support Transportation Fittings for which there was this special device on which the ET was bolted down to the transporter, whereto I've found this drawing in the ET Bible.

 

3SZmLc.jpg
Source: System Definition Handbook SLWT, Vol. II (Lockheed Martin)

 

An interesting fact is to note that before each ET's transport the SOFI foam of these Closeouts had to be removed and then reapplied, which resulted in different shapes and colors of these areas. huh.gif

 

And also for these Closeouts there is a corresponding PE part (P43) in the Newware Kit,  

 

7hb39G.jpg

 

that could already be seen on the right edge of the PE board in this image, with what it should continue soon. cool.gif

 

hAWk6S.jpg

 

So far for today, and thus still a nice 4th Advent evening.

Edited by spaceman
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