Removing fine scratches....

[OHCRJ900]

I'm currently in the process of building a 1/48 scale DC-3 that will be in All American Airlines colors. I have some fine scratches left behind from sanding the seem on top of the fuselage. I have tried Mr. Surfacer 1000, followed the directions and it would not fill the scratches. Then I tried a clear coat to see if that would do it, it was a little more effective than the Mr. Surfacer. Anyone have advice or technique? I'm going to try Alclad on this model, so it has to be absolutely perfect.

Thanks for any help in advance.

[Bob Beary]

Try finer and finer grades of wet/dry sandpaper used wet. Depending on the depth of the scratches go from 320>>400>>600>>1000>>1500>>2000. Sand in different direction and back up the paper with something firm. 3 or 4 surface manicure "files" work great as well.

Generally if you stop at 600 and give it a coat of Tamiya Fine white primer you'll be in very good shape.

Bob

[OHCRJ900]

Thanks. At first I considered it but didnt want to possibly make it worse or flatten out the fuselage, but I never thought of going the opposite directions.

I just laid another coat of clear on there, once thats done drying I will give the wet sanding a shot.

Thanks again!

[Netz]

You should be wet sanding if using Emory Cloth (Black Sandpaper) you should not be using Sand Paper for wood,the tan stuff with paper backing.

But it shouldn't take more than 600 grit and a final pass with 000 Steel wool.

Scratches left by heavy grit sand paper are the reason why I like to use Machinist Files, they will cut material away instead of grinding/eroding like sand paper does, it leaves a scratch free surface.

Curt

[Pierre Sacha]

Hi,

Apologies if someone has said this before but for fine scratches Superglue also works wonders as long as you wet-sand it as soon as it's dry to the touch. Apply with a needle by stroking horizontally over the area.

Enjoy!

Regards

Pierre

Edited March 16, 2012 by Pierre Sacha

[dmk0210]

When using Mr. Surfacer or putty, I have found that multiple applications are usually necessary.

I apply it, let it cure, sand smooth, reapply, sand smooth, repeat as necessary.

Instead of sanding, you can also use 90% alcohol on a swab to wipe it smooth.

Edited March 16, 2012 by dmk0210

[balls47]

What Netz said about the steel wool. I'm not trying to trump what Netz said, but I use 0000 steel wool. I have never used 000, and it probably works fine. One warning about steel wool: you will have steel wool "stuff" all over the model. Make sure that you get your model clean, just like if you had sanding dust.

[misterc01]

Not sure if it was available then, but I have seen and have a Flex-I-File set that is supposed to really work well on curved surfaces. If any interest, I'll update in a week or three when I am in a position to try it.

Pete

[Devilleader501]

When I have problems with fine scratches I use an auto grade filler primer. just decant it and use in a bigger tipped airbrush. then after a light coat use fine sand paper and the scratches will dissapear. you can find it in any autoparts store. It has a little coarser pigment in it to fill small gaps and scratches so go slow because if you use to much you will be rescribing panel lines. Or sanding your butt off. Hope this helps. JOSH

[JackMan]

One warning about steel wool: you will have steel wool "stuff" all over the model.