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Thanks for those tips Chuck! I'll test them out tomorrow. I actually had the same follow up question as blunce, so thanks for clearing that up both of you.

Must I re-apply a coat of future after windexing? or should that do the trick on its own? If I could get a high enough res picture I'd post a pic of what it looks like, but again the texture is so fine I dont beleive it would show on my cam. Anyone got a photo of a recently Futured surface ready for decals?

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Thanks for those tips Chuck! I'll test them out tomorrow. I actually had the same follow up question as blunce, so thanks for clearing that up both of you.

Must I re-apply a coat of future after windexing? or should that do the trick on its own? If I could get a high enough res picture I'd post a pic of what it looks like, but again the texture is so fine I dont beleive it would show on my cam. Anyone got a photo of a recently Futured surface ready for decals?

As requested, using the techniques described above. You can get away with less shine, but I find the more glossy, the better. Also, if you don't know about it already, make sure you use Microsol (or similar) as a final decal softener, because most decals will still silver without it. There are many threads on this subject already. You don't need to add another coat of Future if your finish is already looking something like this, but I've been known to spray 3 coats, just to be sure.....

Future10.jpg

Future13.jpg

Also, Chuck, serious question, am I staring at your build in your sig, or is that an actual bird? I would not be surprised if that's your work. Your CF-18 is a thread I often reference!

Now THAT is a compliment! Thanks. No that isn't my work, but I'm trying very hard to replicate that bird at the LONG build thread below....

http://s362974870.onlinehome.us/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=224033&st=780

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i guess I am from the old old old school. I don't thin future since it is pretty watery anyway and I definately don't airbrush. People rely way to much on airbrushing to do every thing. I use a flat tip wide bristle brush dipped gently into the future then wiped off and a very light coat is put down. I have never had any problems doing it this way. Quick and simple and no time wasted in setting up and tearing down and cleaning an airbrush.

Frank

ATL

Same here. Brush works perfectly fine for me.

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For me I find a mix of 60/40 future and Isopropyl works best. I spray at about 12 psi and just a mist coat built up and dried about 30 minutes between each coat.

I use a siphon feed brush for this as I can keep it indefinitely in the jar and use it whenever. As for the grainy feel, After my final color coar dries well and is pretty well cured.I burnish it with a piece of old t-shirt and it comes out to a soft glow. a couple of coats of the future mix and apply my decals. a flat coat after and it pretty much looks like it is painted on. Thats just my .02 worth.

Paul

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Phantom hit it on the nose. I use a Paasche H with the #3 tip and around 20 psi. Just make sure that you apply it just like paint. Start on and off the model, and make sure it is still wet or damp when it hits the model. It will look kinda ugly at first, but Future has great leveling qualities. Good lighting is a must. One last tip. Before applying decals, let the Future dry AND cure for a minimum of two days, three is better.

Note: The only time that I brush on Future is if I am doing a very small model, i.e. 1/144 scale fighters.

Edited by balls47
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I was getting a slightly textured surface using it straight out of the bottle and then thinned it slightly with ammonia. Nice and smooth now.

Thank you for posting your result! Again, whomever has issues airbrushing Future, try Ammonia. If you still have an issue After that, I would like to know!
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Thank you for posting your result! Again, whomever has issues airbrushing Future, try Ammonia. If you still have an issue After that, I would like to know!

Okay, I use Future thinned with Windex with good results but this thing about straight ammonia has me intrigued. Is there a specific type of ammonia I should get? Is this something I can get at a supermarket?

I'd like to give it a try to see how it goes.

Rob

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Okay, I use Future thinned with Windex with good results but this thing about straight ammonia has me intrigued. Is there a specific type of ammonia I should get? Is this something I can get at a supermarket?

I'd like to give it a try to see how it goes.

Rob

Yep,straight old white ammonia from the supermarket is what you want Rob.

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The last time I sprayed Future - I let it dry for well over a week. When I went to apply decals - using stand Micro Set / Sol - it seemed to "etch" the Future - and generally looked crappy. I did spray some Future over the decals afterwards - but it didn't look as good as it should've.

With my latest projects - I've gone back to Testors Glosscote - and it too, seems to leave some marks after using Micro Set / Sol - but not nearly as bad as the Future did.

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For me I find a mix of 60/40 future and Isopropyl works best. I spray at about 12 psi and just a mist coat built up and dried about 30 minutes between each coat.

I use a siphon feed brush for this as I can keep it indefinitely in the jar and use it whenever. As for the grainy feel, After my final color coar dries well and is pretty well cured.I burnish it with a piece of old t-shirt and it comes out to a soft glow. a couple of coats of the future mix and apply my decals. a flat coat after and it pretty much looks like it is painted on. Thats just my .02 worth.

Paul

May sound dumb, but where can you get Isopropyl alcohol? Is this what the alcohol content is in Tamiya thinner? :blink:

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I stopped spraying Future a couple years ago.

I found nothing beats a brush. 1" or so in with, top quality, very soft. There is a very small learning curve to brushing Future, but I find it to be by far, the best way. Just personal preference i guess.

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The last time I sprayed Future - I let it dry for well over a week. When I went to apply decals - using stand Micro Set / Sol - it seemed to "etch" the Future - and generally looked crappy. I did spray some Future over the decals afterwards - but it didn't look as good as it should've.

With my latest projects - I've gone back to Testors Glosscote - and it too, seems to leave some marks after using Micro Set / Sol - but not nearly as bad as the Future did.

I just used MicroSet and MicroSol with Tamiya decals on my FW-190A after coating the model with Future and I did not notice any etching. I did notice some decals has some white residue surrounding a few small decals, though. And after waiting 1 week, then applying another coat of Future to seal the decals in, the white spots were gone. Just my experience...

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May sound dumb, but where can you get Isopropyl alcohol? Is this what the alcohol content is in Tamiya thinner? :blink:

iSO alcohol (aka "rubbing alcholhol") is found at your local pharmacy usually in pint-sized containers in concentrations typically of 70 up to 90%. Pretty cheap at about $.99/ pint or so.

Tamiya x-20a is mostly 90% iOS alcholhol plus retarder and a little fragrance according to reports I've read. I've had good success mixing my home brew of it for spraying Tamiya acrylics.

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The last time I sprayed Future - I let it dry for well over a week. When I went to apply decals - using stand Micro Set / Sol - it seemed to "etch" the Future - and generally looked crappy. I did spray some Future over the decals afterwards - but it didn't look as good as it should've.

With my latest projects - I've gone back to Testors Glosscote - and it too, seems to leave some marks after using Micro Set / Sol - but not nearly as bad as the Future did.

Might have the sol pooling for too long. It is good to have it soften the decal of course, but try wicking the excess with paper towel. If there is enough there keeping the decal damp, it should still work. You could also use future right after sol evaporates.
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