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1:32 Trumpeter Harrier GR.7


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Posted April 15, 2012

  On ‎13‎/‎04‎/‎2012 at 0:27 PM, stusbke said:

Care to elaborate a bit more on that?

Not at this time Frederick, as mentioned in post #12

Hello Carl. I posted something back in 2012 (post #12) about this, seems to have disappeared; removed with a couple of unnecessary comments?

I said then I would like to get something published, little knowing what awaited me in 2014 and thereafter and the 3 year outage. It might improve my chances if all the details are not ‘published’ beforehand on ARC, I don’t know. If that is unsuccessful I may go down the route of making a PDF available by email.

 

Finally completed a job I had been putting off, finishing the Aires coaming/main instrument panel for painting. As a result of aligning the MFDs, instruments etc. were lost. A number of switches were either broken off or indistinguishable, so renewed them all. However, a bit of a problem on dry fitting with Aires HUD P.E. in place. Looks good, but is too high and windscreen will not seat on the fuselage. So much so, removing material under the coaming would not make any difference. Having the Eduard interior set and checking against Aires, it does now fit easily. PITA.

p51w2iK.jpg%20

Well, when I say finished, I cannot fit the central instruments until after painting.

Edited by John Wolstenholme
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Had a bit of a disaster with the canopy. Apparently there is clear styrene and there is clear styrene! Painted the MDC internal recessed shape and inevitably some comes outside the groove. I had done a test piece beforehand letting the paint dry then removing unwanted paint with a suitable thinner. All was well. Did it on the real thing and all the unwanted paint didn’t come off. Another trial on an old canopy with a metal polish, paint comes off and canopy is shiny and clear. Voila. Did the same on the Harrier canopy and it is badly fogged. A ‘non voila’ moment.

An hour or so later after rubbing with 2000 W&D followed by cloth/toothpaste (Colgate if you are interested) and it is back clear again. Yahoo.

 

Anyhow, wasn’t too impressed with the visibility of my painted MDC, so then added the Zotz decal to the outside; a test piece inside did not work. I was disappointed with the lack of decals for the outrigger legs, but this more than made up for it as there was no way I could have improvised an MDC, as I did with the outrigger decals. Although you can see both internal and external MDCs in the enlarged photo, at life size with the eye it appears as if the MDC is in the styrene.

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Presently working on the replaced canopy frame – thanks to Aires customer service. Back end is incorrect as per the kit part. Looked at what’s available in the Eduard PE exterior set, but plastic card is going to be easier and more secure than trying to fit the PE.

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Great progress John!

I'm waiting news with impatience!

The MDC can be a real nerv wrecking step in the build.In my recent Harrier I was lucky to have this details in positive in the inner side of the Hasegawa canopy,so all I'd to do was to paint with a good,pointy brush.

But when I build the Airfix Buccaneer,I scratched the chord out of the most thin electrical wire I put my hands on ( that of the earplug iirc).

A experience I'm not so keen to reapeat...

 

 

Gianni

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Hi Gianni, unfortunately the 3 year lay-off has only made me slower.  Lot of time spent without a lot to show for it. The shroud/main instrument panel is finally fitted, with completed HUD. Probably not a good decision as the front screen needs to be finished and fitted to protect the HUD before I can work on the underside. Mistake. There are numerous tiny ‘bits’ which need making and fitting to the arch (if I can be bothered!). Also, there is a very noticeable instrument (?) at shroud LHS to be made.

 

At least the canopy is complete having added detail inside and modified/detailed the rear. Lost some MDC decal at front and rear edges due to Tamiya tape masking inevitably crossing it, so that needed bits to repair. Mistake, should have applied decal later.

CmWPafC.jpg%20

PKB82CT.jpg

 

All is sorted but patience gauge is showing near MT.

Edited by John Wolstenholme
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  • 1 month later...

By 24 May I was a little weary of this build. Two options, rush ahead and make an unsatisfactory job, or give it a break. As you can see I went for the latter, having a complete change finishing my 90” RC aerobatic glider.

 

I have made some compromises and done only things which are most obvious i.e. details to windscreen arch. Somewhat of a pain attaching detail as it is < 1mm wide. Do you mask and paint, then attach detail, or attach detail then mask and paint? Went for the latter, ‘cos if the CA gets to the masking tape one could have a bit of a problem!

 

The windscreen is narrower than the fuselage at the arch, so I used a spreader piece to ‘open’ same. As you can see from the photo, the spreader is a little too wide at this point.

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Windscreen is now CA’d in place and I can now safely work on the underside without damaging the HUD.

aPnMr80.jpg%20

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10 hours ago, crackerjazz said:

how'd you CA the canopy without worrying about fogging?

 

Hi Joe. Bare Metal plastic polish, but this seems to be no longer available!  Tamiya tape sticks OK and I 'degrease' (wax) exposed areas to be painted. Whether Novus 2 will do the same, don't know. Anybody?

 

I prefer this to the Future dunking technique. You don't have to worry about bits sticking to canopy during drying and can redo/touch-up if necessary later on.

Regards

John

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You certainly improved the look of that instrument panel from the raw material John.

 

That canopy bow frame doesn't look too shabby either.

 

Can't help with the polish either. I got a shallow tub of polishing paste from a perspex sign shop almost twenty years ago.

So long ago in fact, the paint along with its ID has peeled off the lid. And it looks to have a couple more centuries use left in it.

Still works well for buffing clear and regular plastic to a high shine though.

 

Edit to add: One further thing I'd consider is, if the windscreen is under continuous stress after bonding to the fuselage, to cover it with a cloth

wrung out with hot water for a minute or two. It may help 'relax' the plastic into its adopted shape and prevent stress cracks appearing at some point.

Edited by chek
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On ‎07‎/‎07‎/‎2017 at 11:19 PM, chek said:

One further thing I'd consider is, if the windscreen is under continuous stress after bonding to the fuselage, to cover it with a cloth

wrung out with hot water for a minute or two. It may help 'relax' the plastic into its adopted shape and prevent stress cracks appearing at some point.

 

Hi Charles. Don’t know if I am keen on that with the masking tape already in place. Should ‘moisture’ lift any edges next paint application(s) could give me a real problem. Might give it a go with a hair drier at a safe distance.

 

Finally having got the outrigger legs fitted, then proceeded to adjust main wheel leg; it was too long. With the oleo left adjustable is was quite straight forward. I made the main leg just v. slightly longer than the outriggers, without wobble, so the weight would be taken on this first. Can now re-detail main leg.

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The Aires gear doors were ~ 1mm short in length, corrected with card. The apparent method of fixing the doors looks fragile, so I have opted to drill the doors and fuselage and use copper wire for additional attachments points.

Ir8cS0i.jpg

 

I have opted to go with main gear doors open, as I have seen a few photos showing this. Additionally (apparently), the doors can be opened manually. Don't know whether I made this up or remember reading 3+ years ago the main armament panel is in this bay. Anyway spent too much time on this bay to close doors up :rolleyes:

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5 hours ago, John Wolstenholme said:

I have opted to go with main gear doors open, as I have seen a few photos showing this. Additionally (apparently), the doors can be opened manually. Don't know whether I made this up or remember reading 3+ years ago the main armament panel is in this bay. Anyway spent too much time on this bay to close doors up :rolleyes:

 

 

I'm not sure if it still holds true, but when I built my last 1/48th Harrier GR3, my research told me the MLG doors could be manually released by the ground crew.

(And I always think discontinuities in outline and added detail trumps 'usual' if viable and possible. Rather like Spitfire flaps).

I've not yet read or seen anything to have me believe the Gen 2 Harriers were any different.

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Hi Matt, thanks for dropping by, good to hear from you.

 

Hey John, how goes it with the Dromeder. Not too busy hopefully.

 

There are times when I think I can't be bothered and other times when I think I am not going to let this s*d beat me. The main gear leg fell into the latter class. The problem (challenges in modern speak) was making a ‘T’ joint small enough for the hydraulic line split to the brakes. Took four attempts, but won through in the end. I have come to the conclusion there is little point in adding any further detail as it will either affect the fitting of the leg or will not be seen when the doors are fitted and with the gun pods/LIDs in place.

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sp2mQQw.jpg%20

 

Onwards and upwards, I think.

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Wow...gear looks awesome John. Have you been hanging out with Geedubeyler by chance?

 

Your Harrier has really got me interested in doing one. I have the Eduard Gr.7/Gr.9 to do before I go nuts in 1/32 scale however.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Matt. Haven't 'seen' Geedub for years.

Main gear leg completed. Perhaps not as dirty as it should be, but I prefer to see some detail.

og1gi9Q.jpg

 

Having changed the dorsal strobe to the later trapezoidal type, then had to redo the ventral one, the mounting flange already in place from 3+ years ago was the wrong shape.

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New ventral nose antennae required with repositioning.

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Finished all the detailing I intend doing to the underside – seems getting the little bits done takes the longest time! 

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  • 2 weeks later...
22 hours ago, crackerjazz said:

 how you painted the placards on the landing gears?

Joe, not painted – done same as with outrigger gear legs. First applied black decal rectangle, dried o/n after Microsol; don’t want it moving when you make second application.  Then apply some appropriate ‘squiggle’ from weapons markings etc with a black background, cut smaller than that first applied.

 

After having suffered a structural failure (one too many aeros with an old stressed wing) with one of my gliders, present efforts are to make a replacement suitable for lighter winds. So no Harrier progress for a while. :crying:

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