John Wolstenholme

1:32 Trumpeter Harrier GR.7

318 posts in this topic

Whilst detail painting of the outrigger gear legs etc. is ongoing, I thought I would look at the wing tip detailing. Still to do the inset nav. lights, but had enough of this for the time being! The lenses are from sections of the clear parts sprue, sanded to dia. and ‘polished’ to clear.

0wbrkmx.jpg%20%20 

Still contemplating all the circles, which presumably represent the panel screws, equating to ~1” dia. full size.

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Wow John those wing tip details look great. I got to remember that tip about the stretched clear sprue. I have been using Lite Brite pegs but I think your method might be the better option.

 

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On 17.3.2017 at 6:17 PM, skyhawk174 said:

Wow John those wing tip details look great. 

 

 

They truly do! Great job.

 

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Those wing tip detail enhancements make all the difference, John.

 

One small tip that may help others wondering about sanding lights to a nice curve, is to gradually bring the squared off end of the clear sprue/rod of adequate diameter close to the base of a lighted candle flame. At the right point (found by trial and error, depending on sprue/rod thickness) the end of the rod will melt into a dome.

It forms a mushroom rivet-like head, which can grow fairly large as it melts back as it's brought closer towards the heat. If care is not taken, it can also burst into a (tiny) flaming fireball. For this model, the flange so formed at the cooled end of the rod would be sanded away leaving a perfectly clear and curved end.

 

You can also paint the curved area silver, then when dry, glue it into a landing light body or whatever.

When firmly fixed, the cut end can be more easily sanded to the flatter curve of a lamp's lens and polished back to clarity.

And you get the same internal inverted reflection that make MV lenses and similar look so good.

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Hi John !   Look carefully at the white air intakes behind the cockpit index.php?act=attach&type=post&id=170306 , they are on the same level with the main intakes ,  in your model they are located incorrectly .

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4 hours ago, TTomcaTT said:

 Look carefully at the white air intakes behind the cockpit  , they are on the same level with the main intakes ,  in your model they are located incorrectly .

 

4T, I am not sure to what you are referring. Are we talking about the aux intakes/doors as seen in this photo?

http://www.b-domke.de/AviationImages/Harrier/Images/Harrier_GR9_ZD406_28938.jpg 

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Well let's look again at your model John . Additional air intakes are circled in red , must be on the same level with the main intakes are marked with a yellow line .

G6Kg8Bq.jpg

Harrier_GR.7_064_zpsbx3iyqpg.jpg

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The main intakes are forward facing! Don’t know what these ‘openings’ are, but I wouldn’t have thought they were auxiliary intakes under the canopy. I have a clear photo taken through the canopy rear, which I do not have the photographer’s permission to share, which clearly shows the ‘ducting’, or whatever it is, is not as deep as the auxiliary inlets. The small photo you highlight is taken at a shallow angle from the front so you cannot tell how deep it is. Just by projecting this rear line in the small photo, it is not in line with the rear of the auxiliary intakes.

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As there are what appears to be a moveable door just inside the main intake (for boundary layer control?)

I'd deduce the ducts under the rear canopy skirt are their outlet ducts.

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The two "hole" on the plane turtledeck are some kind of bellows that inflated the canopy seal,allowing the cockpit to pressurize as the jet's wheels left the ground.

The boundary layer' doors in the main intake spill air aft the cockpit,if I'm correct the outflow of the ducts will be the upper squared,mesh-covered vent close to the tip of the canopy rail,aft the two "holes".

Unfortunately,I haven't clear pics of the area of interest,but in the Foxtwo books I've the two turtledeck opening don't look in line with the aux doors on the air intekes,so I think John is right!

 

 

Gianni

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Guys maybe I have myself confused , so they look on the GR 5 index.php?act=attach&type=post&id=170306 , and so they look for the AV 8B   index.php?act=attach&type=post&id=170317 , and the GR7 ZG471 index.php?act=attach&type=post&id=170318, so that depending on the modification and changed the location ???

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It's been a while since I had the opportunity to visit your thread but I'm glad I'm finally able to. Everything's is looking awesome John... 👌

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Hello Youngtiger1 (Mike?), thanks for dropping in, long time no 'talk'.

Thanks for the input guys. I suspect after seeing the AV-8B+ photo posted by Vitaliy, all Harrier IIs are the same.

 

Finally finished the outrigger gear legs. What do the kit, Zotz and even the highly detailed/expensive Model Alliance decals all have in common – zero representation of the data ‘plates’ which are very prominent. All you get are Tie Down decals. I have represented their shape and size with black decal, then used some ‘squiggle’ from the kit weapons decals. Better than ‘blank’ legs I think.

OgSftXT.jpg%20%20

I slid decal under the tie down ring to simulate the protective ‘material’ on the leg, having remembered not to stick the bottom of the ring to the leg. If you are wondering why a section is not painted at the top, it was a snug fit in the bay before painting so will save having to remove paint to fit!

Edited by John Wolstenholme

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Hey John, yep it's me. It has been a while. Busy with work, family, and academy. Plus, my old iPad does not work properly with this new ARC forum 😞 It's getting old and needs help 🤕 So, when I'm on my desk top computer is the only time I can comment here, thus my lack of comments. 

 

Btw, you are right about both decals but short in their stencil markings...especially zotz. Your LG looks super and the extra, even bit squiggly white text, looks awesome. Beside, not ever one can read every single stencil markings on every decal sheet. As usual, you are doing great bro. Keep it up and I'm saving every bit of it 😉

Mike

Edited by Youngtiger1

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Looking at the main gear, there are significant improvements which can be made. Just to be clear, as with the rest of this build, I am not saying this is totally accurate, just more accurate than the kit details.

Firstly, wheel hubs have been modified to outer and inner faces.

MSmfDRf.jpg%20

 

I don't know whether it is just an obsession to modify things, or maybe this is a good idea! The gear leg doesn’t look very beefy and I worry about the axle. Should a wheel break off in the future it may not be easy to effect a good repair. I therefore drilled through the axle to take 0.8mm brass rod, which is presently over length. Also, I have made the oleo over long and thicker. It will slide into the leg after the halves have been joined, rather than at the time of joining. It can then be adjusted in length to match leg/wheel with the outrigger legs.

4F6F9Vt.jpg%20

 

Comparing the linked photo to the kit detail it would seem there is no large scissor link at the rear, but what I think is called a ‘walking joint’ for the brake hydraulic line.

http://p1127.co.uk/Harrier/HarrierGR7/slides/ZD469-W191.JPG

m7A7Tja.jpg%20

 

Yeah, the chunky door has to go!

Edited by John Wolstenholme

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Nice photo of a clean wheel hub Vitaliy, but having reduced the linked picture in size, not even to 1:32 wheel size, how much detail can one now see with brake dust, hydraulic oil, and general grime? To win the war, I choose the battles.  :whistle:

COeYDj6.png%20

Edited by John Wolstenholme

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