binbrook Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Hi John, maybe not explained too well on my part! I measured the Hasegawa Harrier pylons along the same lower edge as Dave Roof and scaled up the figures to 1:1 to compare with Dave's actual 1:1 measurements. Hope that makes sense now! Keep up the good work...will you be attempting a Terma pod from scratch or sticking with the earlier aden fit? Cheers, Graham. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Wolstenholme Posted June 25, 2012 Author Share Posted June 25, 2012 waiting for Christmas as a kid was never like this! Hey Andy you, almost, make me feel guilty. I just don't know how you pull this kinda stuff off. Perfectly symetrical detail on those dispensers. Yes you do Marcel. Its a shame that the U.K. stop flying with the Harrier. Almost criminal! ...will you be attempting a Terma pod from scratch or sticking with the earlier aden fit? Hope that makes sense now! Graham, I am going with a Snow Falcon which carries both gun pod LIDs. Aah, crystal. Whilst painting the CBLS units, an idea finally came to me to address the outer pylon issues. At least the middle pylons are back to the green line. It is strange how Trumpeter can get the fine raised detail looking good and yet make such a pig’s breakfast of most other elements of the pylons. Anybody know how the stations are numbered on a Harrier, apart from 1 - 9? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
binbrook Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Hey Andy you, almost, make me feel guilty. Yes you do Marcel. Almost criminal! Graham, I am going with a Snow Falcon which carries both gun pod LIDs. Aah, crystal. Whilst painting the CBLS units, an idea finally came to me to address the outer pylon issues. At least the middle pylons are back to the green line. It is strange how Trumpeter can get the fine raised detail looking good and yet make such a pig’s breakfast of most other elements of the pylons. Anybody know how the stations are numbered on a Harrier, apart from 1 - 9? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
binbrook Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 John Pinched from Harrierpilot on Britmodeller (hope he doesn't mind): "Just to help with the lay outs that I have found the Harriers pylons are number 1 to 9 (L to R) with the A2A pylons numbered 1A and 9A Drop tanks are 3 & 7 uos. Some od the fits were: 1 & 9 - AIM-9M, 2 & 8 Concrete LGB, 4 & 6 gun packs, 5(c/l) empty. 1A & 9A BOL ONLY 1,2,8 & 9 BL755, 4 & 6 gun packs, 5 empty, 1A & 9A BOL ONLY. 1 & 9 AIM-9M, 2 & 8 Concrete LGB, 4 & 6 Gun packs, 1A & 9A BOL ONLY. 1 & 9 AIM-9M, 2 & 8 1,000lb LGB, 4 TIALD, 5 EMPTY, 6 Gun pack, 1A & 9A BOL ONLY. 2, 3, 7 & 8 TANKS, 1 & 9 AGM-65 Mavricks. 1A & 9A BOL ONLY 1 & 9 BL755, 2 concrete LGB, 8 1,000lb LGB, 4 TIALD 5 Empty, 6 gun pack. 1A & 9A BOL ONLY. 1 & 9 BOL Only, 2 & 8 Tanks, 3 & 7 1,000ELGB 4&6 gun packs, 5 empty 1 & 9 1,000lb DB or BL755, 2 & 8 AGM-65 Some fits did have AIM-9M on the 1A & 9A with the BOL rails. TRANSIT FLIGHTS 1&9 AIM-9M, 4 x TANKS 1,000lb dumb bombs were used on 1,2,8,&/or 9 on some jets." Oooh, Snow Falcon...nice. Remember a cold day watching them return ;-) Cheers, G. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Wolstenholme Posted June 27, 2012 Author Share Posted June 27, 2012 Pinched from Harrierpilot on Britmodeller (hope he doesn't mind): "Just to help with the lay outs that I have found the Harriers pylons are number 1 to 9 (L to R) with the A2A pylons numbered 1A and 9A Drop tanks are 3 & 7 uos. Thanks for that Graham. Most interesting, but I am confused.com Do you know i) whether L to R means when viewed from the front, or as in port to stbd? ii) from the pylon numbering I was thinking drop tanks would be 4 and 6, but 3& 7 uos? ii) then, if A2A (air-air?)pylons are 1A and 9A, as opposed to 1 and 9, wouldn't that mean they are only numbers 1-7 are used? Thanks again. Regards John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Wolstenholme Posted July 10, 2012 Author Share Posted July 10, 2012 (edited) Thanks go to Dave Fleming of the Harrier SIG for info and photos. Finally got the middle pylons looking more like they should. Fitting of pylons to new actuator fairings, panel/skin lines corrected, repositioned new sway braces, new crutching pads (?), detail to underside and primed to highlight areas which need further attention. For comparison here is the kit pylon. Whilst prating about with the pylons did some mods to upper wing i.e. meshed and open exhaust vents. Latter looked too small and now has a duct rather than just a rectangular hole. Removed raised slime lights which we know should be flush also look too big to me. Started removing the spurious raised detail from the outer pylons, but I need a break from these and will look at the BOL rails! But, before that must finish the CBLS100s. Edited July 10, 2012 by John Wolstenholme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chuck540z3 Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Looking very, very good as usual John. Pylons are almost always ignored and yet by detailing them properly like you are, they can really make the overall build "pop". Great looking sway braces as well- with the bolts that come through the pad like they should and lots of hollowed out detail on the underside of the pylon. Another JW masterpiece in the making! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eastern Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Hi John, Very nice job, indeed. Very useful "how to" tips to turn that piece of plastic into a real masterpiece! Cheers and happy modeling! Alexander Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Wolstenholme Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share Posted July 14, 2012 Hi Chuck and Alexander, appreciate you dropping in and your comments. So there I was under the illusion I had finished the CBLS100s, but need another 12 bits to make the safety pins/flags. If you want to go cross-eyed and test your patience I can recommend giving this a go. Need to tone the wash down a bit! Strange how Trumpeter shows the box art for one of the Harrier options with BOL rails, but then doesn’t include them. Still one less thing for them to have messed up I suppose. This could be a protracted affair without dims and no square-on photos, but I have found a couple of Tamiya LAU-7 rails in the spares box so these give a starting point. Got to get back on the A-7E at some time, should have taken my own advice! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
binbrook Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 Thanks for that Graham. Most interesting, but I am confused.com Do you know i) whether L to R means when viewed from the front, or as in port to stbd? ii) from the pylon numbering I was thinking drop tanks would be 4 and 6, but 3& 7 uos? ii) then, if A2A (air-air?)pylons are 1A and 9A, as opposed to 1 and 9, wouldn't that mean they are only numbers 1-7 are used? Thanks again. Regards John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
binbrook Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 Hi John, I think the numbers quoted are correct; the Harrier II pylons were numbered l to r, i.e., left outer = 1; the 3 hard points on the belly are also included (centreline pylon = 5). The RAF had the 2 additional a2a pylons wired for the outriggers. As these were purely for the carriage of sidewinders they were numbered locally as per the outer wing pylons (the traditional place for a2a's on the Harrier). Hence 1a and 9a. It sort of makes sense....ish. Hope this clarifies, and keep up the excellent work! Regards, G. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Wolstenholme Posted July 16, 2012 Author Share Posted July 16, 2012 the 3 hard points on the belly are also included (centreline pylon = 5). Wood and trees comes to mind. I’m thinking about the pylons being the only weapon stations and forgetting about the LIDs (gun pods). The numbering makes complete sense now, with the station numbering of the USMC Harrier II and then the A2A RAF pylons numbered 1A and 9A so as to remain consistent. Thanks Graham. Looking a little closer at the BOL(locks) rails, the outer wing pylons don’t seem so bad now! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Wolstenholme Posted July 21, 2012 Author Share Posted July 21, 2012 (edited) Got the basic rail shapes with detail to front, aft still to do! Now these are what I would call divots, to the pylons, which will have to go. Edited July 21, 2012 by John Wolstenholme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kagemusha Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 Nice, clean work John, did you alter the pylons at all? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Wolstenholme Posted July 22, 2012 Author Share Posted July 22, 2012 did you alter the pylons at all? Hi Andy. Because I moved these pylons forward as part of achieving the ‘straight (green) line’, the pylon was then short at the rear – you can see extension piece; also changed angle at rear. You will also see I moved the front ‘fixing’ (white card) forward – moulded on bits looked too far back to me. The pylon/BOL rail mounting lugs were naff and in the wrong place – repositioned front one to be visible in cut-out in the BOL. As I mentioned I still have to fill in the ‘divots’ along the top of the pylons. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Youngtiger1 Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 John, you BOL rail is looking very nice. I'll echo what Andy said...very clean work. You're a true master of plastic. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rdrunner Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 (edited) You're a true master of plastic.Mike ^ I'll second what Mike said. :worship: Hi John, I will be waiting and watching with interest Ken Edited August 1, 2012 by Rdrunner Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marcel111 Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 John, meticulous, neat and beautiful work! All so perfectly symmetrical! Marcel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Wolstenholme Posted August 1, 2012 Author Share Posted August 1, 2012 You're a true master of plastic. That’s just an unfounded rumour; I’m really a cash person. Thanks Mike, Ken and Marcel, appreciate your comments and dropping in. Whilst painting etc to the BOLs/pylons, I started work on the outboard pylons. There is more work here than I originally thought. Also, details to left and right faces of these pylons are different. Finally got the BOL rails finished, well nearly. Anybody got any thoughts as to what’s going on here with the ‘safety’ on the BOL rail? All photos show an Acqn round fitted, all are viewed from the outside of the rail and yet there are three different ‘modes’: (i) nothing, (ii) connecting wire, (iii) connecting wire and safety wrench! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
binbrook Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 That’s just an unfounded rumour; I’m really a cash person. Thanks Mike, Ken and Marcel, appreciate your comments and dropping in. Whilst painting etc to the BOLs/pylons, I started work on the outboard pylons. There is more work here than I originally thought. Also, details to left and right faces of these pylons are different. Finally got the BOL rails finished, well nearly. Anybody got any thoughts as to what’s going on here with the ‘safety’ on the BOL rail? All photos show an Acqn round fitted, all are viewed from the outside of the rail and yet there are three different ‘modes’: (i) nothing, (ii) connecting wire, (iii) connecting wire and safety wrench! Hi John, great detail and painting work as usual! Hopefully this link (with diagram) will answer your questions re. the safety pins? http://www.anft.net/f-14/f14-detail-lau138.htm Regards, Graham. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
blunce Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Hi John, That's some amazingly accurate and sharply detailed work there. Looks like the real thing. Very inspiring! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Wolstenholme Posted August 8, 2012 Author Share Posted August 8, 2012 http://www.anft.net/f-14/f14-detail-lau138.htm Graham. Thanks Graham. This tells me the component names, but unless I am missing something cannot see that it answers the main question. Certainly one question answered – it is not a connecting wire but a lanyard, so if this fatigues/breaks it explains that missing. Finally got all the ducks in a row; slight improvement on the kit. The pylons have been the most difficult element so far, or perhaps I'm Harrier fatigued. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Wolstenholme Posted August 22, 2012 Author Share Posted August 22, 2012 After a major re-work the outboard pylons are finished. A quick reckoning indicates there are some 60 odd bits of plastic and wire per pylon to get these looking more like they should, instead of the USMC type provided. The non existent cl pylon will have to wait until I can face another pylon. Me thinks I need some painting therapy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kagemusha Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Great work John, did you widen the outboard pylon, or is the central strip of plastic card to change the profile? Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marcel111 Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 John, really really impressive work on the pylons... and glad to see them come together. Marcel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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