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First model in 15+ years people. Turned out okay, but the decals caused me some problems as you will see. Still need to knock some rust off my hands and my brain to learn some of these new techniques I am reading about.

Anyway, lets have a look. Just hope I can post these pics properly. '

Nope didn't work out. Trying again.

Shermanweathered3.jpg

P1010272.jpg

Shermanweathered1-1.jpg

And of course, the diorama layout it will eventually be set in, this layout is not final yet, I am still pondering a good idea for it. Its Normandy, June 1944 and the allies are pushing to St. Lo. I was mulling over the idea of doing my Dragon Kit 6127 (Hedgrerow Tank Hunters) and placing them behind the hedgerow for an ambush scene. Will take any feedback and/or suggestions you offer. And of course, if there is something I can do to lessen the ridges on some of them decals it would be greatly appreciated.

DioramaLayout.jpg

Edited by Whiskey1968
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Thanks for the comments Fortress.

I must say, I had such fun doing this, and seeing the final result makes all the work worth while. With practice I hope to get as good as some of the people on here. But I have a lot to learn, 15+ years has left me rusty and I need to catch up on the new techniques available now. I need to learn quite a bit to catch up to today's standards of scale modeling that I see posted here and on other sites. Phenomenal and outstanding work by some very talented and creative people.

Darryl

PS: I fixed the track that was on backwards. BANGHEAD2.jpg

Edited by Whiskey1968
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Well while the track was not the traditional direction, it would also not be incorrect to show it that way as field units and factories sometimes did the same thing.

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Hi tank, I do believe that I read, seen a pic or video of a Sherman with the tracks installed like that. I can`t remember if it was done for some purpose by field units or was just a hasty repair to get rolling again were that detail was over looked. In any case, I did fix the track, if for nothing else but piece of mind.

Darryl

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I took a good long look at your decals and it looks like you didn't follow the time proven method of applying them. All decals have some clear carrier film around them in the case of the Stars, and the USA numbers have the clear film that the numbers are printed on clearly showing. I use to very carefully cut all the clear carrier film away, and painstakingly cut out each and every letter and number. Now I don't bother, as you can't see any of it once I've gone through the descaling process.

Decals need to be applied by the Microscale system, whether or not you use their respective decaling solutions.

1-A smooth gloss surface. I use Testors Glosscoat as it produces a smoother surface then airbrushed Future.

2-Micro set on the surface that the decal is applied to. Slide the decal on, position it, then apply a little Set on top of the decal. Let it settle down for min. I use a Q-tip to gently roll out the air under the decal and any pooling solution, starting in the middle and working out in all directions.

3-I apply a little Micro Sol (Red label) and let it do its thing. Leave the decal alone to dry. It may wrinkle some, it may not. All depends on the thickness of the decal. You might need more applications if the surface has compound curves, or the decal needs to conform to rivets or seams. Only apply more Sol after the decal has dried enough so you don't rip it.

4-Once dry, if you see any silvering, that's air trapped under the decal. Use a pin to prick the decal silvering areas and then apply more Sol. Let dry. That should take care of the problem.

5-Apply a few coats of gloss so that the decal is completely sealed, and leveled to the painted surface. For this I use Future not Glosscoat.

Set and Sol are basically the same setting solution with Sol being the stronger of the two. For really tough decaling jobs where either the surface is a real bear, or the decals are very thick, use a really strong setting solution like Walthers Solvoset. Don't use it for your everyday go to setting solution.

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Thanks for the comment Joel. I did airbrush Future on, then decal and used Micro-sol after the decal set for a minute...then Futured again. I am not sure what I did wrong but I did something. Maybe I let the first Future coat set too long ... around 20-25 minutes, it was a medium coat, not thick or thin. Maybe it was applying the Micro-sol while the Future had not cured.

In any case, I have your list copied and pasted to my desktop for future use on my next project. Thanks!!

Darryl

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Personally I don't like using kit decals for armor. I prefer Archer Fine Transfers. They have nice range of sets or generics to make your own.

http://www.archertransfers.com/CAT_UScompleteSets.html or http://www.archertransfers.com/CAT_USnationalInsignia.html

Check out their how to videos.

http://www.archertransfers.com/PAGE_Instructions.html

I don't work for them but I am very happy multi time customer.

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Darryl, From the looks of your pictures, you have a silvering issue. the base Future coat wasn't smooth enough. If you're airbrushing on future, then do a base coat, let dry for like a 1/2 hour, then a heavier 2nd coat. Let it dry a full day, then decal. Like I said. I personally prefer Testors Glosscoat for the base coat, as it goes down really smooth.

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Ah, that is were I went wrong. One medium coat, I should have put a second coat on and let dry for a day. Got it! I had a can of Testors Gloss and used it on a model that got destroyed and was unfinished crying.gif. I will get more and try it on my next project. Thinking about the Tamiya Panther V (kit # mt223). It was my first time using Future, I need to practice with it on some scrap (which I now have), in the mean time I will def get some more Testors Gloss and use that.

Thanks Joel!

Darryl

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